Just a bit of info, I ordered one of these as they look good....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400908897249

I shall let people know if it works ok - I tried to do some work with the bike jacked up and putting the wheel back in on my own with no paddock stand was almost impossible

I like this one as it seems it will not get in the way of any removal of the axel or sensors etc..

Also  if you see the socket I got - its a "deeper" one as opposed to shallow, allowed the breaker to be used at a better angle than the shallow sockets which would see other bits of the bike get in the way....

Good luck!

Remember mark it first - I used Tipex

 

I might just leave the all loose and let is scare the neighbours....

shall bit the bullet later tonight or tomorrow depends on time - but it will be a 1/2 a turn on each nut and plenty of patience....I do NOT want a repeat performance...it almost killed  me

I did learn a lot 

regards the cams being out - maybe they just settled for it as it was, I don't know if it would be a mod....but durations of open/close will affect running..

As many said on my pictures I was a sprocket out, it took a long time to figure out how to take up the slack with a sprocket and small clockwise turn - have done it 2 times now as I had to do valve clearances...

If its working fine then you may be best to leave it - but if you a like me then you might not be able to resist

Put some marks on it now so u can see which chain link matches with which sprocket tooth

I did not do that and it has taken me ages - but the 2nd time was quicker as they gave me a good guide to where I needed to be

Video...

OK its alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Just turned it over and sounds lovely - well i think it does...


Putting a video up now!


Still need to clamp down the exhausts and the downpipes but its running!


Wohooo!

Another thread from me...

Reason - is there any need to "prime" any systems after what I have done i.e. cylinder head has been off and cooling and oil systems have been drained and removed where applicable, fuel filter etc off and being re-fitted

I have heard and read of some people having air locks in oil systems and destroying engines etc...

I am sure on the old site, I read about someone who did just the above, left the bike ticking and came back, it had seized, air lock in the oil system...

Anutz

Well engines back together anyway and just battling like crazy with the carbs - saw your article on engine change and finding something to lever them in with!

what if I throw up all over the bike?!

 

Ok so have done the clearances.....


And managed to get the chain and cams spot on again..


Here is what i did


Found TDC


Held Exhaust Side of Timing chain taught ( not silly but firmly )


Located Exhaust Cam and varied the sprocket mating position to chain until there was as good alignment as possible with the caps ( was not 100% )


Located Intake Cam and aligned as best as possible


Secured Caps with Bolts, ensuring to be aware of tightening on to Opened Valves before Closed and following a criss cross pattern


Used a Socket on the Flywheel to turn it clockwise a little whilst making sure chain does not jump off the Exhaust Sprocket, this took up any slack in between the sprockets


Installed the tensioner taking up slack in the intake side of the chain


Installed the top side chain guide/guard ( required 4 center bolts losening but no issues there )

Took opportunity to check the Cylinder Head Bolt torque before i put cams in as well as i have put the head back on


I have done this twice now and its worked fine each time - past week i have been using all sorts of methods and too focused on lining them up perfect not taking into account the effect of the slack and the effect of cranking clockwise slightly to take it up and move it to the Intake side for the tensioner to deal with...


Any observations fine, but it worked for me!


Thanks for previous posters input as well it all alluded to the fact it was not as simply as line them up and tighten down


 

Progress - bang on with correct tension now   


Has been cranked through many revolutions with a socket and no movement of the timing marks


Onward with the rest of the rebuild...measuring clearances....this is going to be fun 

was it just trial and error or was the are process you could use to sort it - do you think the idea about the sprockets would work?

It always was a rattily engine to be honest, even @18000 miles always had rattles