Rentec do a grab rail that is FAR better than the naff handles the FZS is fitted with as standard.
 
http://www.renntec.co.uk/iqs/cpti.870/dbitemid.691/sfa.view/yamaha_fzs1000_fazer_accessories.html
 
It is priced at just over a 1/4 of one of the O.E grab handles though, they do SOMETIMES crop up on eBay but I have been after one of these myself for about 6 months now and keep getting gazumped on them (they've been going for £45-£55!)
 
I also cant believe that  there are no original handles about either ?

You just want the standard kit that is for a standard bike or one fitted with an after market can only !
Im pretty certain the full monty is a refferal to bike fitted with a FULL race system, either the Akrapovic, Yoshimura or Muzzys.
If you contact S.G Motorsport (the Ivans importer) they will supply you with the right kit.
As for fuel consumption it will be better overall, if ridden sedately it will return atleast 55mpg (well mine did any hows).

As per title, would prefer one with a little cosmetic damage (to keep costs down) colour unimportant as it's for a winter project.
Please post here or P.M if you can help, thanks chitsu.

If there is a short to earth you potentially run the risk of damaging the NEW sensor, for what it takes to just unpulg those 3 components I think it is a safety check worth carrying out ?
 

Dont forget to put plenty of 'HIGH TEMP' anti seize paste/grease (not copper slip) on them or they will just seize up again!

Or 'YOSHIMURA STAIN MAGIC' that is if you can find somewhere that sells it 
 
http://shop.yoshimura-jp.com/en/product/syousai.php?id=1553
 
It is truly amazing stuff!!!!

Well just spent the last 40 minutes writing a reply only for my computer to crash!!!!!!
 
Anyway, yes you've kind of understood me, right.
 
What you need to be looking for here is the switching of the 5V-0V-5V-0V and so on as the wheel is rotated in the direction of rotation, this is what the instument cluster is looking for, the frequency of the 0V's to 5V's it is putting out, this is what is giving the speedo reading or number of rotations of the rear wheel = your indicated road speed.
If you are'nt getting a 0V and just a constant 5V at that connector then there is a problem with the sensor (possibly!).
If you are getting the 'SWITCHING' in voltage you need to work forward now. Check at the C.D.I unit (DO NOT UNPLUG THIS WITH THE IGNITION ON !!!!!) you now need to check the 'WHITE' wire at the C.D.I (with the connector unplugged) and also at the back of the clocks (the WHITE wire remains the same colour throughout the entire loom) Piggyback the test lead into the back of the clocks (WHITE wire again) and use the BATTERY negative pole for your earth, now switch on the iginition, If you get 4.54V at both these points atleast there is some consistancy here in the voltages.
Also another test to carry out here is with the ignition OFF unplug the clocks, C.D.I & the speed sensor and check the 'WHITE wires continuity to EARTH, if your getting a continuity reading then theres a fault in the loom somewhere (it's shorted to EARTH), and this is possibly why your not getting the 'SWITCHING' reading at the speed sensor, and obviously no speedo reading
Let me know how you get on, also is the bike fitted with an alarm at all ?
 
chitsu.

As regards removal/replacement of the speed sensor, I changed one when I had the swingarm off to re-grease all the bearings, probably not much help to you but it was a doddle to replace with the swingarm out of the way.
But firstly have you checked all the wiring thoroughly ? You should be getting 5V all the time from the clocks to the speedo sensor (Neither the O.E manual or the Haynes tell you this, I found out through trial & error!) I cant remember exactly which wire it is (will check when im back in the workshop) but I seem to recall it being a black/white wire ? (MAYBE!) if you havent got that 5V feed there follow it back to the clocks. Ive seen about 10 Fazer's/R1's & R6's with speedo faults and everyone of them has had an issue with the 2 multiplugs under the infil trim on the left hand side (by the side of the clocks) either completely corroded contacts or just water ingress.
The worst one I came across needed a new FULL wiring harness as it had too much water damage inside the loom to warrant it's repair (was cheaper to fit a 2nd hand loom).
And lastly you want get an error code for the speed sensor, I think there are only 3 or 4 (R1 & R6 have an error code for the fuel level indicator if I remember correctly) error codes on these which are for the T.P.S, Exup valve & the tilt switch (Yet again I will confirm this tonight when ive checked at the workshop).
 
I will post up which wires to check tonight after ive had a quick look at the C.F.D, chitsu.

No Mike it was the thread by that crazy Greek (PIR I think ?) fella that has inspired him to do this!
 
I was over at his place yesterday he has the front pipes & can fitted allready.
He's used a can & link pipe off of a 4XV/5JJ R1 which kind of looks odd & O.K in a strange way ?
He seems to think it will run O.K or exactly the same due to the EXUP valve opening up at the same time as it would with the old headers (the EXUP valves are stacked instead of being side by side on the 5PW). Im not 100% certain on all of this as I recall Ivan mentioning something about the length of the headers being quite crucial on these engines ?
 
Anyhows IF I remember I will take my camera with me next time im over there,  & i'll put some pics up of what it looks like and also what was required to fit them (He did not have to make a new front engine mount).
 
Chitsu.
 
P.S SORRY ABOUT THE THREAD HIJACK solorider   

Late 2002 '52' plate U.K bike, few extra's fitted, FULL AKRAPOVIC exhaust system, DYNOJET kit in carbs, K&N airfilter, RENTHAL bars, GYTR lowering bridge (Lowers handlebars) & braided brake hoses.
It's M.O.T'd till May 12th 2012, road tax expires December 31st 2011. Theres some service history with the bike, a spare key & the owners book pack & books too.
It starts, stops & runs fine. Recently serviced (oil & filter change) plus fork oil & seals and chain & sprockets replaced too, there is the usual wear & tear marks here & there, the worst being in the last picture below on the R/H side of the tank.
Im looking for £2,300 for it CASH, I dont really want any P/X's but I MAY consider it ?
I live in Glossop, High Peak Derbyshire this is about 13 miles east of Manchester city centre & about 80-90 miles North of DERBY!
P.M me or post here if you require any further info, no test rides without the FULL amount in CASH, proof of insurance & a VALID U.K licence in my hand!

On the top picture the arrow at the bottom (nearest lower frame tube) that is the wire for the side stand cutout switch.
In the second pic that black thing the arrow is pointing at is the SPEEDO sensor/pick up whatever you want to call it.
The neutral switch is a bit higher up if I remember correctly ? And is a right pain to change (Done a few now   )

Thank you very much for the direct link, I did'nt see that when I looked    It was the 5DM model code that threw me.
 
Excellent, I should now be able to get my pals bike back on the road now.
 
Many thanks again & ride safe, chitsu