Morning foccers, I'm currently looking for some new gloves but I have normal sized palms with stubby little fingers, it's impossible to find gloves that fit, if i can get my hand in them the fingers are too long, if the fingers are a good length I can't get my hand in them! Anyone else have this problem? Anyone know of decent shortfingered gloves? I'm thinking I might look at the asian range/fitting gloves?

I'm not sure how a plastic tube equates to basically an auto bleeder? Especially as air can quite easily go back up if you don't close the nipple after each pump.

Also, why do you think the auto bleed nipple would be anymore likely to unscrew itself while braking than a normal bleed nipple?

Was bleeding my rear brake the other day with just a clear hose and it's not too bad, but front brakes are a bit of a pain. I know there are kits to make it easier, but has anyone tried the auto bleed nipples? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130674710059

They have a check valve built in so all you do is open the nipple and pump. I'm also asking because I successfully sheared off one of my front caliper nipples so need to replace it anyway. Anyone know the size bleed nipple for the FZS600?

(Side note: I'm also upgrading my lines and came across braided SS goodridge lines for cheap here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360597321426 , reason being is they only have the "clear" colour. I'm a vain bastard and will be paying £30 so I can get the colour I want, haha.)

Shit, time for a new one then i guess. Yeah it's the standard exhaust, maybe i could just chuck some sealant at it for now. Blowing a bit from under the exhaust and the black link pipe (it's not the drain hole on the exhaust), oh well

did you use primer or sandpaper for any of it? or did you just paint it? looks good!

So er...exactly how important are the rear brake caliper shims (they clip onto the back of the pads), i've been cleaning my rear brake, thought i'd misplaced them then realised the bike never came with any, they're £6.23+vat each so not too bad, but are they actually needed?

packie, are you sure you're forks aren't just bottoming out? Could always try some thicker fork oil

That'd be great cheers!

Yeah I replaced the head gasket and it wasn't damaged, I think the person before me replaced it too in hopes of fixing the problem, hence why it wasn't damaged. So i'll be replacing the head at the weekend and crossing my fingers!

I've double checked, all valves are in spec apart from one intake valve on cylinder 3. The bike is burning coolant and pressure from cylinder 3 is getting into the cooling system. The spark plug on cylinder 3 was also rusted, it's carb was coated in oil on the outside, and the float chamber had brown powder on the inside but nothing is rusted. I've replaced the head gasket and cleaned the carbs, if the bike still burns coolant I'm assuming I need a new head?

Does the rear brake caliper need to be split in half in order to change the seals/get the pistons out? I don't have access to compressed air so it's a tad annoying. Also...I recently checked my valves, one of the intakes is 0.07mm, instead of the recommended 0.11-0.20, is this a big deal? don't make me do the timing chain again!!!

EDIT: Third quick question, if one of my carbs is coated in oil/crud, what could this indicate?

Does anyone have any helpful tips for reinstalling the front camchain guide with the engine in? ('99 fzs600) I managed to remove it without too much trouble, but for the life of me I can't seem to get it back because the forks/yoke are in the way...

Cheers, i've currently got the cylinder head off, forgive me if it's a stupid question...but...is there anyway for me to check the condition of cylinders 1 and 4 at TDC with the head off? Short of taking the the whole thing off of course