So I understand, I'll be trying the acetone/atf mix for a while before I try to get it off and keeping my fingers crossed. I'm surprised at how bad the paint is on the front, do they all do that or is it unusual?

Maybe they were going to a wedding, and that was the stag do

 My inlet rubbers are still in good condition. I wonder if smearing a bit of red rubber grease around them occasionally would stop them drying out and cracking? Got a big tin of it gotta use it up somehow

It does and to the resale value too

 Looking good sharpie. Just had a good old poke around underneath mine and it's still totally solid and the studs look rust free too   but I'm not taking any chances when I remove it. Just wondering whether there's anything I can do while it's off, to prevent it rusting from the inside, I thought of maybe cleaning it out a bit with brake cleaner then squirting a load of VHT paint down the end, (obviously with the silencer removed) and swilling it around in the hope that some of it might stick around the balance tubes and collector box area then pour out what's left. Opinions please. It's got to come off anyway, along with the radiator, cos I need to repaint the front of the engine and touch up the frame brace bars. Never endin' innit?

 Sorry if it came across like that. It wasn't meant to.   Just that people do all sorts of things to their bikes, cars, homes etc, that not everyone else or even anyone else is going to like but if the owner likes it, that's really all that matters. Others will always have opinions but should that affect what you do with/to your own stuff?

 Your doing 70-80mph in the outside lane overtaking the slower moving traffic and some tosser, usually in an Audi or similar comes flying up behind and starts flashing to try to get you out the way. so he can continue on his way at 100 mph+

 I said don't get me started on HGVs. What about trying to climb into your boot when they don't thing you're going fast enough in 40 or 50mph speed limits?

  In my experience HGV drivers are the worst culprits for that. They absolutely hate having to stop. I've lost count of how many times I've had to to come to a complete stop in my car, on a roundabout cos some idiot in a truck just came straight out. Bizarrely though, never on a bike. But really though, don't get me started on HGVs, I could go on for hours.

 Just looked on Ebay and Amazon   They're 'avin' a larf aren't they?

Just read this feature about penetrating oil and it seems that a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is the best thing to use. Anyone on here tried it?


  Recently an article was passed along to me from Machinist Workshop Magazine.
 They tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts & bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a salt water solution.

 The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded.

 The break out torque required for:
 Nothing =                                  516 ft. lbs.
 WD-40  =                                  238 ft. lbs.
 PB Blaster =                               214 ft. lbs.
 Liquid Wrench =                          127 ft. lbs.
 Kano Kroil =                                106 ft. lbs.
 50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone =   50 ft. lbs.

edit:
It was pointed out that this was a topic a few months ago, so I read through that thread and did notice someone also recommended GM 1052627 heat valve/EGR lube and I have personally used a similar Mopar EGR product for years that works very well but it is definitly more costly then used ATF and Acetone.

And a final note on shop safety and penetrating fluids:
 I was spraying some exhaust bolts on an engine that wasn't running but was warm, when the penetrant hit the bolts it evaporated a bit. The fumes drifted my way and even though I was wearing safety glasses I got some residue in one eye. Flushed the eye for about 20 mins, it remained blurry and irritated so I headed to the emergency room.
 Brought the can along and the doctor about feel over when he read all the solvents that were in it, long story short, 3 hour eye flush on some hospital machine to get the ph normal in my eye socket.

Would it be worth cutting that section out and having a plate welded on. The problem that when metal rusts to holes metal around it is already badly rusted and you'll be chasing it forever. sorry I don't want to sound like I'm trying to teach my grandmother to suck eggs.

Bet there are some awesome races going on up there. Not that I'm in any rush to watch them.