Quote from: Gnasher on 22 August 2023, 09:11:32 am

Ignore the the brake caliper comment.   They will just bind or tick, excessive brake dust, you'll feel resistance/loss of performance and possible blueing of the disc/s in extreme cases.  What you're describing is drive/transmission issues.

  (for now) as the OP has said at a constant speed the noise isn't there , just when accelerating. If it was the calliper the noise would potentially be different as speed increases but wouldn't stop when you stop accelerating.

As the noise appears to only be there as speed is being increased, you need to look at things that are only affected by increased load. Chain, sprockets, output shafts and alignment of all of these things (wheel alignment). Looking at brakes would be VERY low on the list.

Would take seconds to check them out and eliminate them though, no harm done?

Seeing as we're no wiser, what about the front brake calipers?
If they were seized up your pads might be worn to the metal, holding the bike back and causing the grinding sound?

You say you tightened the chain last week.
I'd be looking at that again, as it sounds possible to me that it's too tight and maybe also misaligned.
Put the bike on the centre stand, and spin the rear wheel backwards. It should make a purring noise if the chain tension is good and the wheel is straight.
If the chain is too tight then you'll hear and probably see that it isn't right, and if it's misaligned it will make a consistent clunking sound as it tries to correct itself. 
The chain should just about comfortably touch the plastic chain guide that's near the front sprocket when you raise the bottom line of it.


To do all this correctly you need to nudge the wheel forwards and gently bring the wheel back either side using the nut at the back of the swingarm. Don't forget to loosen the caliper tension bar otherwise the right side will not budge.
The notches on the swingarm should be a good guide for either side, but are not always 100% correct plus obviously every bike is different, which is why i find spinning the wheel until it purrs nicely works better in my opinion. You may need to nip up the main wheel bolt before you can attempt to spin it properly though. It's all about doing it gradually, then once you're happy with it you won't need to touch it again for ages once all the locking nuts are tightened too.


On a side note, if i am correct and it is a simple tension/misalignment thing then it's a real quick way of wrecking a chain and sprockets if it's not sorted out promptly.
Bear in mind i'm talking about a chain in decent nick too, if it's dry or has stuck links then that will just make matters feel much worse.
You can check for stuck links by looking at the bottom row of the chain, if any are not totally horizontal then it's not a good sign, although when links are stuck you'll normally feel them bumping through your left footrest.

Quote from: darrsi on 12 August 2023, 10:42:13 pm

Quote from: fazersharp on 12 August 2023, 10:24:14 pm

Epic faff. So it looks like you were right all along in your suspicions and were not imagining things.

Cost aside, they did say my pistons, valves, etc, all looked good, so my regular oil changes paid off, and the fact my cam chain has not faltered for 64K is also a sign of reasonable maintenance.


My bad, I overlooked this part of the engine, and I'm paying the price, but lesson learned.

I don't know what maintenance can be done to prolong the cam chain actually over what you have already been doing maintenance wise. Other people on here have higher mileage fazers without any camchain issues wonder if it was a previous owner that have caused its demise

The previous owner treated the bike as a toy, it was in a bad way when I bought it at 26,000 miles.
It had clearly been used, abused and dropped.


As you all know by now my bike's mainly a commuter, so it's not like I'm out ragging it all the time, the chance would be a fine thing.


There's a bike on Ebay with the same mileage as mine, from a dealer, basically saying everything is great apart from "cam chain rattle at start up but goes away when revved".


Be warned, that noise ain't going anywhere else, it's not good news.

https://www.cmsnl.com/

Helped me out very quickly.

If parts are on their website they either have them or can get them, otherwise you won't see them at all.

Starter circuit Cut Off Relay is a more accurate term for it since is is more than a relay.

The starter relay would be the wrong term as the Solenoid is technically the starter relay.
Unfortunately both terms are used for it

So the one I replaced recently is the Starter relay/Solenoid, that sits right  behind  the battery under the seat.


Where does the other one live?


If I put fuel pump relay in Ebay just a fuel pump comes up.

Check for kinks in fuel pipes, and make sure fuel tap under tank is turned on fully.

That's expensive for something you'll rarely use. I would still persevere with the broom handle, it's always worked for me, even the very first time when the bolt seemed extremely tight. Maybe get someone to assist you holding the fork leg down onto the handle while you try to undo it.

Saw my dyslexic mate protesting outside a garden centre glued to the road holding up a sign that read
''Top soil now'' 

I readjusted the TPS, got it to 5000 rpm , and i started the engine again. I could notice some 10% improvement but the problems are still all there. The engine is running very rough, jitters and vibrates

When you say you readjusted it, what did you readjust it from?

.

The videos arent mine but thats exactly how it feels and sounds. I am clueless what to do next, because i need to travel soon but the bike is uncomfortable to drive even for 2 km.

As above, do a quick TPS check.

Have you swapped plugs 3 & 4 over to 1 & 2 to rule them out?
Plugs can and do go bad from experience, especially if you already had issues before.
Snipping about 7mm off the ends of each HT lead then refitting the caps can help too, as over time the internal wires can sink into the plastic of the leads due to heat.


Are they original caps, or aftermarket ones?