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Messages - NitramA
52
« on: 28 January 2020, 09:02:16 pm »
I got mine from these people. Had no problems with it, good value for money https://www.kmsdirect.co.uk/tools-equipment/liftingtools
I was looking at this one too. Did you go for the 800 or 1000lb lift? Looks like the 800 may be a little too short for the Fazer.
53
« on: 28 January 2020, 08:15:46 pm »
I used to be able to rummage about under the bike, but with the advancing years. I’m finding it more difficult to actually get up afterwards!
I’ve therefore decided that a Worksop lift stand is required.
Looking around there seems to be a baffling array of stands ranging from cheap eBay lifts to expensive tailor made air powered jobbies.
There’s also variations on a Skylift theme with a single pole giving front/back wheel up poses or level with the use of straps.
I’ve never been able to make a decision so wondered if you guys had any advice?
I’m drawn to something like the Clarke CML3, but I’m open to suggestions.
I’d really like to buy used (cause I’m a tight) but they seem to be as rare as hens teeth!
54
« on: 20 January 2020, 05:57:07 pm »
Hmm, like the look of that, might give it a go myself.
Stupid question- did you get the self clamping spring hose clips from Vital too or are do I have to raid Amazon again?
55
« on: 09 November 2019, 06:41:15 pm »
When I removed the inlet blanking rubbers to balance the carbs the stub came out of the inlet manifold!
Looks like it’s was originally glued in so I assume it’s ok to put some araldite on it?
Balanced the carbs and set up the TPS anyway.
Shame it’s still bloody raining or I’d have been out for a pootle.
Definitely better, and even the choke seems to have an effect.
56
« on: 03 November 2019, 04:49:01 pm »
I got a day pass yesterday for being a good boy so spent some quality time on the bike. After much messing around with a vernier gauge I just couldn’t get repeatable measurements, so in the end bought a float height tool from flea bay for £15 which helped a lot. So kit fitted, carbs back on, temporary fuel tank set up, Choke on, pressed the starter and up she comes!!!  Couldn’t quite believe it. Still have to balance the carbs and set up the throttle sensor but everything seems to be working as it should. Just to prove I can still be a muppet, despite my best efforts I managed to mix up the float bowls for cylinders 1&4. So now I’ve got the custom look with both outside carb drain plugs being inboard. Not that I’m too bothered. Really happy I’ve got this far and thanks again to Mike and Paul for their support through this. I’ll be better at it next time....
57
« on: 27 October 2019, 08:16:50 pm »
Same thing that I found when I was presented with a set of the Yambits float valve units to fit for someone.
There's a short but distinct pause between the float tang touching the needle pin and when it compresses and the float drops again. Makes a difference, I believe, hence my preference for genuine Yamaha/Mikuni parts.
You should be OK with using the OE needles in the Yambits seats but if it were me, I'd refit the originals and chalk the Yambits buy down to experience.
One of my favourite sayings ... "Experience is what acquire get just after you needed it". 
Depressing but true.  I’ll have another try tomorrow. I was reading the Yamaha workshop manual (better than the bloody Antiques Roadshow!) and came across the way they recommend checking the float height. I’ll stick with the method on Pats website but interesting none the less.
58
« on: 27 October 2019, 06:18:02 pm »
Replaced the needle valve with the original (kept new needle valve seat) and the float height goes to around what it should be.
One thing I did notice was when I move the carbs, using the old needle valve, the float hits the needle valve then sinks as the pin is compressed.
With the new needle valve, it seems to just sit there and doesn’t compress the pin by much, if at all.
The pin is definitely free but the spring seems to be a slightly higher tension.
59
« on: 27 October 2019, 05:39:09 pm »
Did you buy genuine Yamaha parts? If not, all bets are off ...
I've had bad experiences in the past with aftermarket carb parts, particularly replacement float needle units. Never had an OE needle/seat pair leak fuel regardless of age/mileage, though. I suggest you refit the originals and check the float heights again.
On stock floats, the tang which touches the needle valve will be completely flat. It's easy to see if the tang has been bent by someone previously messing with the float height.
I went with Yambits as I thought they would be better than the stuff you see on eBay for a couple of quid. Maybe I shouldn’t have.... I’ll refit the originals and see what it looks like.
60
« on: 27 October 2019, 04:10:41 pm »
Latest update: so I’ve just about finished. Springs cut, slides drilled, jets cleaned and main replaced.
Thanks to Ogri I’ve replaced the O rings too, and I’m glad I did. They really were on their way out! In fact due to the state of them I also bought new needle valves, valve seats and o rings for the pilot jet.
Now I’m checking the float heights and notice that two of them are already at 14mm.
So taking Mike’s statement about always being 12.5 mm I’m either measuring it wrong or the new needle/seats are slightly different lengths from standard. I think it’s more a case of the latter rather than the former?
61
« on: 25 October 2019, 01:15:21 pm »
Extending the bit by a few mils does alter the angle of the cut and that's fine. Too far, though, and the bit becomes more likely to snap. This is not a good thing ...
You're doing great so far. Have you found the online guides to doing the installation? Which kit are you fitting?
With 2 holes enlarged per carb, I suggest you turn the mixture screws out by 4 turns initially. This isn't what you find recommended elsewhere but it's what I found worked best over time.
I’m using the one for the slip on silencer - even though mines still running a standard system. I found extending the drill bit helps a bit as it does seem to make it easier to use. I also got to number 3 carb and found out the reason for my problems. Basically I needed to grow a pair! I took the taking your time and don’t use excessive force too far and was fannying around too much. If I upped the pressure (slightly) and increased the rotation speed a bit it went through and dropped/became tight as described. Went back to the other holes and they all went through as expected. What a Tw*t! I did set the air screws to 4.75 turns out but if you think I should go with 4 I’ll definitely give that a go. And Ogri - thanks for the words of encouragement. I didn’t realise how lonely a garage can be when you don’t know what you’re doing 
62
« on: 24 October 2019, 09:40:43 pm »
I’d like to say I’m enjoying this but Jeez it’s bloody horrible!  As Mike suggested I swapped the drill round and it does go in, it definitely tidied up the holes but I’m not sure what it would be like if it was wrong. I’ve done another two holes and still can’t feel when I’m breaking through. I just keep stopping and checking to see where I am, then take a view on whether I’ve gone far enough. I’ve increased the amount of drill poking out of the vice by a couple of mm and that seems to help both in angle and being able to see what I’m doing. Of course because you’re not going in vertical the holes tapered and it seems much bigger than it actually is (I hope). I’ll do the other two carbs tomorrow after my poor old heart recovers.
63
« on: 24 October 2019, 03:48:55 pm »
And the proper photo!
64
« on: 24 October 2019, 03:47:44 pm »
As I’m comfortable that Ive sorted the problems with the cold starting Ive made the (rash) decision to fit Ivans kit.
Using a pin drill I’ve drilled the two air bypass holes but never felt the bit where it tightened up or dropped by 1mm. I used the drill using very little downward pressure as advised but it just seemed to keep going forever. Probably didn’t but it sure felt like it.
It got to the point where I was concerned I was over drilling so I stopped and took some photo’s. Do the holes look OK?
I also wondered if my pin drill was too fat as the chuck part touches the carb flap. Could that be upsetting the angle of attack?
65
« on: 24 October 2019, 03:35:50 pm »
66
« on: 24 October 2019, 03:34:19 pm »
67
« on: 23 October 2019, 07:12:56 pm »
Just had a close look at the “cleaned” jets.
They all look good through my new favourite toy, an illuminated magnifying glass.
One thing I did notice was that one of the main jet looks like a 130 whilst the others were 132.5.
(That would be replaced during the Ivan install so not too worried about that).
The reason for the post is that I’m changing the rubbers in the needle seat, but can’t actually get it out.
It wobbles when I grab with my fingernails but the rubber seal seems to be holding it in place.
What’s the best way to get it out?
Could use some long nosed pliers and a cloth but thought I’d check with you guys first.
68
« on: 23 October 2019, 02:06:38 pm »
That’s a fair old list Mike!
The plugs were changed about a 1000 miles ago, and I had the problem before they were replaced.
However I didn’t try snipping the HT leads. Odd you mention it as when I changed the plugs the HT lead came away from the cap. I screwed it back in, but that’s defiantly worth a try.
I’ve just soaked all the jets in cleaner overnight. I’ll spend some time tonight checking them over.
Again the theory about the fuel levels makes sense - Ogri has kindly supplied O rings so they’ll go in during the reassembly.
The insides of the carbs and all the galleries Seem spotless with no wear (that’s apparent to me) so I think its a careful rebuild in see how we go from there.
I’ll report back.
As always thanks for your help.
69
« on: 22 October 2019, 04:08:29 pm »
Ultrasonic baths are great if you can get hold / borrow one. Cleans out all the small chambers to remove varnish.
Was thinking about getting one I must admit. Having a quick look to get one that I can just dump four carbs in is a bit £££££ and I don’t fancy breaking them down to single items either. In saying that if this doesn’t work.....
70
« on: 22 October 2019, 04:04:27 pm »
You can always buy new starter jets if necessary. However it would not be a huge issue if the starter jets were a little larger than Mikuni 42.5 size as they are not in use unless the choke is operated.
Are they stainless steel jet cleaners? I usually use brass wire from a brass bristle brush as it will not harm the jets.
Never a great fan of Carb Cleaner, much prefer Cellulose thinners, it can tarnish the jets if they are immersed for over a few hours, but certainly dissolves lacquer quicker than carb cleaner.
Having cleaned and compared all the jets they’re all the same size across the carbs so I’m sure they’re ok. Youre right though, if I’m in any doubt I’ll just buy a new jet.
71
« on: 21 October 2019, 08:41:41 pm »
nitrama i had a similar issue and it turned out to be one of the fuel inlet o rings... I'd changed them for new when I Ivanised, but had nicked one. That cylinder was running cold as it was overfuelling, and didn't fire until the bike hit 6k. I actually bought 50 of em as Mike gave me a heads up to sourcing them...if you want half a dozen so its summat else you can knock out of the equation, pm me your addy buddy, i'll post em out pronto (Gratis obvs as the young people say lol)
PM sent. Really appreciate the offer.
72
« on: 21 October 2019, 08:25:05 pm »
As an update I thought I’d take another look at the jets. Everything seemed ok until I got to #3 where the needle jet (according to Pats photo) or the starter jet (according to the Haynes manual) was definitely more restricted to my needle jet cleaner poker thingy. Slight pressure opened it up the same as #1 & #2. #4 needle jet is much more blocked and whilst I can see through it there’s no way I could get the tool through without being in danger of applying too much pressure. I’ve left it in carb cleaner to soak for an hour or two. I should say the the tool is a motorcycle specific jet cleaner and I’m using the smallest poker. Being paranoid I’m now worried I’ve opened up 1,2,3 and 4 is the only one that’s the correct size! The Pilot jet and all the emulsion tubes are squeaky clean.
73
« on: 20 October 2019, 08:41:18 pm »
I couldn’t agree more about taking one step at a time.
This is the second time I’ve taken the carbs off and the very reason I didn’t install Ivan’s kit then was that I didn’t want to confuse myself with multiple problems.
Second time round the carbs almost came out on their own!
Last time I cleaned out the jets and there was a marked improvement in the way it went.
I was just left with the cold start issue.
Looking at YouTube, the Haynes manual and posts on this forum, I think I’ve not properly cleaned some muck out from somewhere.
The way everything is interconnected leads me to believe it’s still gummed up which gives odd symptoms that may be nothing to do with the choke.
Looking at them now, all choke plungers move freely and I can see,them opening up the galleries in the carb body.
If I don’t find anything concrete in there Ivan will have to wait.
74
« on: 20 October 2019, 11:51:22 am »
Brand new about 200 miles ago.
75
« on: 20 October 2019, 11:07:01 am »
Thanks for the feedback guys.
I find that I use full choke to start but the revs never really increase to a fast tickover like I’m sure they used too.
If I don’t back off the choke almost immediately it will die, so I have to hold it on the throttle until it will tick over.
I then leave it for a couple of minutes before trying to move off.
I also let the pump stop clicking so assume it’s fully primed.
I see the choke mechanism can be removed/replaced but at £80 a carb I’d rather not f**k them by fiddling.
I think I’m going to have to have a look though!
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