Both Haynes and Owner's Manual say GT14B-4, 12V, 12Ah
Don't know what the difference, if any, would be between "GT and "CT" 
Photo is from Haynes


Hope this helps

The 'CT' & 'GT' are manufacturer specific codes nothing to worry about really. Ive just ordered a YUASA battery yesterday which would be O.E.M and that is a YT14B-4.
 
Im at home now & dont have my battery book to hand but I would say the '12' one would be too small at a guess (possibly physically & electricaly).
 
Chitsu.

SOLD!

Hi,

Just checked the wiring diagram and theres 2 of the wires go directly to the clocks (WHITE & BLUE/YELLOW).
Before you go chopping wires make sure ALL the connections are good on the multiplugs, if poss check the backs of the multiplugs where the wires enter them too (you want to be looking for corrosion or broken wires).
Im fairly certain that  the WHITE wire is the one that would be causing the fault as it is this wire that gives the speedo its necessary signal. One piece of wire should be ok, but dont forget you also need to wire it to the C.D.I too.
If you do go down the route of chopping the wires, make sure you cut them far on enough from the plugs so that you COULD rejoin them if it is not this that is at fault.
One thing I would be tempted to do first is disconnect the plugs from the clocks, speed sensor & C.D.I unit and test the wire for continuity from one end to the other and also check that the loom does not have a short to earth by twisting & pulling at the loom from the speed sensor  end back to the clock plug.

It might be dealt with under the warranty:
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,92.0.html


But yes, engine needs to come out and I'd describe it as "above average" in terms of DIY difficulty.
Welding the nut should be fine. I did that on my FZS600, even changed C&S by cutting the old nut off with an angle grinder.

 
That article is in reference to the OLD FZS600 and NOT the later FZ6 which the OP has.

Sorry bout the thread hijack here, but I thought Ivan strongly advised against advancers on these with 'STOCK' compression ?
Installation time for this kit is just 15 minutes more than any other kit.
See the review of our Slip-on kit in :
 
Motorcyclist magazine - January 2003
 
Motorcycle Consumer News - July, August ?? 2004

IMPORTANT NOTE:
Remember!
This is an R1 motor. Ignition advancers are notrecommended unless you have significantly raised the compression!
See our dyno test in the FZ-1 comparisons section below....
 
*For information regarding the FZ-1 Engine Kits, please contact Ivan directly at:
 <blockquote> <blockquote> Ivan's Rockland County Motorcycle
175 N. RT 9W Unit #1
Congers, NY, 10920
845-268-1212
Shop Hours:
Mon - Fri 10am-6pm
Sat 10am-2pm Eastern Time</blockquote></blockquote>

Well managed to get here from derbyshire, weather been o.k. shame no one else made it

I'll be there (weather permitting) between 12-1PM, not sure for how long though 

Try a local automotive paint/bodyshop suppliers and ask for 'Q BOND' it is a plastic bonding agent and works very well (been using it for years now).
Another product if you can get hold of it is called 'MM' it is produced by a company called 'SOL-X' and is a trade only product that is sold to garages & bodyshops only (not sure if you are in the motor trade or know anyone that is?)
One thing I will say is it may need reinforcing where you have repaired it, when plastic suffers fatigue/stress fractures they normaly just keep on going to there surrounding areas, ideally you would drill a small hole at the end of each crack & this will stop it continuing.
 

Yes.

Quote from: tomlinscote on 30 January 2012, 07:27:20 pm

Ooo I have noticed that the fan on mine (-04) does this, is it supposed to do it? Also if I put it in gear the fan goes off, found no mention of these in the manual so is it normal Fazer behaviour??
P

Yeah, that's normal. Think its just a fan test.

Think my fan was working (before I took the bike apart). I reckon that connector its to the temp light on the clocks.

Im 99% certain that the clocks control the fan via that temp switch which is disconnected on your bike, hence my question about your fan.


It is possible it has been unplugged to carry out some maintenance work i.e balancing the carbs ? or there be another reason ?


Either way it 'SHOULD' be plugged in.




And yes tomlinscote it is normal for the fan to run when the bikes are stationary and out of gear (I assume as there is no temp gauge it is a safety feature?).

There are a few wheel & suspension bearing kits on eBay at fairly competitive prices.


But make sure that they are either Japanese or German manufactured & NOT chinese. 


The other thing to bear in mind when replacing the rear suspension bearings is you will need an internal bearing puller to remove the bearings in the swingarm. Also the L/H rear wheel bearing ideally requires one of these tools to remove it, however I have changed quite a few by cutting them in two with a dremel type tool (this bearing is a very large needle roller type bearing).   

Quote from: crishner on 21 November 2011, 04:18:42 pm

£130 for the speedo sensor

It's not £130, more like £20 so not sure what part you're looking up there

I had mine break in the same way as described by Fazerider so got a new one fitted and hey presto....all sorted.

It happens with these bikes so i'd definately check there first but you'll need to get the front wheel off.

 
Where did you get one for £20 ? They are £130 from Yamaha as there electronic & NOT mechanical like on some older bikes,  just as pointer here I had to get a speedo drive for a WR250 last week & that was £89 PLUS V.A.T! From YAMAHA.
 
Not sure if it's any use to the O.P but im pretty certain it's the same part as fitted to the T-MAX (TP500) Scoot, they do sometimes crop up on eBay so it might help broaden your search when looking on there?