To Darrsi


I've met and talked to quite a few Fazer owners over the last fourteen years, probably twenty or more.
But I've only met one Fazer owner that actually experienced the problem.


So from my point of view.... yes it's a known fault, but you're more likely to not have it, than have it.


And whilst there may be a long list of people that have experienced the fault.
There isn't a list of those that haven't
Because there's little point remarking on a fault the bike hasn't actually got.

Sadly I have to go to, work beckons, but the weather doesn't. 
In any event, hope you have a good day





 

To SilverlegacyDo you have a standard exhaust system?

I checked the valve clearances around the 30,000 mile mark, they were o.k.
Didn't bother after that, and the bikes now done 80,000 and still runs fine.

To Fizzy Pies


If you don't make it round tonight I have some info for you.
The spare plug cap doesn't register any continuity.


So I stuck it on my bike and it worked fine.
Checked the one I took off my bike and that didn't register any continuity either.
My guess is, they're suppressed and don't have continuity when checked with a regular multimeter.

Hmm different cylinder to my problemo.


I had (and likely still have) a problem with the No.4 spark plug thread.


With the exception of the first service from new I've serviced my bike ever since.


At around 50,000 miles, which was in 2009 I serviced it and changed the plugs.


When I took the No.4 cylinder plug out, a copper washer came with it.  The copper washer must have been located under the plug washer.


Now I'd done ever service apart from the first one, and I hadn't put it there, and I suspect they didn't change the plugs on the first service because it had only done either 1000km or a 1000 miles.  And if they did change the plugs why stick an extra copper washer under one of them?


In any event having taken the old plug out, I tried to screw the new one in.  No chance, none whatsoever.
I ended up re-tapping the plug hole with a old spark plug with grooves filed in the threads and all manner of aluminium shit came out as I did so.


Ultimately I managed to get a new plug in (an iridium one), and I decided not to change the plugs again.
Oddly enough, or not as the case maybe, the bike still runs o.k. and it's now six years and 30,000 miles later (it's now clocked 80,000 miles) and everything else is worn out anyway... so I guess it doesn't matter that much anymore.


As regards vac gauging your carbs, I've done it before for other Foccers, so why not you.


I'm still working (old bugger hanging on and trying to get to state pension age), so you'll have to give me a ring to see if I'm available.
The works no. is 01204 845382 and my mobile is 07813 439196.








 

What area of the country are you located in?

Have you checked the rear wheel to see if it's running true.


A mate of mine buckled both front and rear wheels on his Fazer, likely due to potholes.


He found someone to straighten them in the end.

To Jules-C


I agree with you.


However I was talking to a guy today at my local M.O.T. station.  He was having his 1996 Fireblade done.
It's a carb engined bike, has a fuel filter but no pump.


And I thought; how much pressure can the pump actually be rated to?  If it pumped too hard surely it would overcome the gravity based pressure of the floats in the carb bowl.


I suppose there's only one way to find out.

To Fazerider


Thanks for the reply.


I'm guessing you don't need any special tools.
But do you need a hoist or a jack or something like that?


I've got a couple of mates who would give me a lift.


But I'd like to prevent the frame from getting scratched if I can, is there a method to avoid this?


The only other question I've got is:
Do you actually need a fuel pump or can you run the carbs direct from the tank via the fuel filter, just using gravity like bikes used to be?


 

I once had a problem with both front discs binding on the pads.


There was no corrosion on the pistons, but the seals were not pulling the pistons back fully when I let off the brake.


The cure was new seals.


I reckon the cause was either toasting the front brake doing the Hard Knot & Wyrenose pass twice as fast as I could
Or
Possibly topping up the system using DOT3 brake fluid..... I think it was DOT3, or if it wasn't the wrong brake fluid.

I put a 120 wide front tyre on my existing fazer wheel, when it had done about 40K miles.
It's now done 79K miles and I've had no problems.

I've had:


1) Sensor lugs break inside the hub, it was down to me not aligning them correctly.


2) Disc rivets wear through wire if not clipped back properly.


3) I reckon if you get moisture in the big black connector box container under the tank you could get corrosion of the speedo connection point.


Other than that I don't know.

Check out the water drain holes on the sides of the cylinder head.


Mine cut in wet weather once because one of them was blocked up.