O-rings (wherever they're fitted) should be replaced as a matter of course, they're fairly common items so any good motor factors should have them (or if you have one nearby, try Halfords). They're not particularly expensive either.
 
 If you do a lot of work on the bike (or indeed, the cage), it may be worth buying an O-ring kit (basically a multi-pack of various sizes).
 
 

Metallic red one on a '57 plate this avro in Scarborough, damn nice it looked too.

Hi and welcome 

Just been up to the (Far) north a couple of weeks back (Thurso), riding conditions best described as "tricky" when I went up (snow on the A9, that was fun - not!).

Happy Fazering 

From the Haynes book of Lies (doesn't give paint codes though):

2004 colours: S-models - silver, dark purple-blue metallic, light grey-blue metallic. N-models: silver, dark red metallic, black metallic.

2005 S-models: silver, dark purple-blue metallic, light silver blue metallic. N-models: silver-blue metallic, dark red metallic, dark grey metallic.

2006 S-models: blue-silver, dark grey metallic, purple-blue metallic, dark red metallic. N-models: grey-blue metallic, orange metallic, dark grey metallic.

2007  S2 models: dark red metallic, purple-blue metallic, black. FZ6-models: light blue, white, silver metallic, black. Rest of range (non S2 / N2): silver, black.

2008 Fazer: ocean depth blue, midnight black, silver metallic. FZ6 bikes: silver metallic, competition white, midnight black.

Long trip - check the weather before you go (I got caught out in snow in Scotland the other week!). Packing waterproofs is probably a good idea, as is being sufficiently warm).

Take a road map with you, and check your proposed route beforehand (inc food / fuel stops), and make sure you know where you can get fuel (a spare gallon is a good idea), and as obvious as it may sound, make sure you've got the means to get fuel (I use cash so I don't get caught out by "we don't take those cards" or "our card payment system is offline"). Banging down a motorway is not the time to find out you've run short of fuel or money.

Make sure you're sufficiently rested and be aware how quickly tiredness / fatigue can kick in.

Try and get all your stuff (spare clothes and any other items you're taking) organised the night before - you don't want to go down the road having forgotten something because you're rushing at the last minute. Try and keep important items in a waterproof place.

Take extra care on unfamiliar roads - not just speed, but surface conditions (try and travel during the day for that reason, although there will be less traffic at night).

If you're using motorways, be aware of crosswinds (esp perhaps on bridges which are exposed on all sides) and watch out for middle-lane hoggers running side-by-side with wagons due to indecisive overtaking (be aware or traffic in your blind spot for the same reason). I try to keep 2 lanes away from wagons on motorways so as not to get pulled towards them by turbulence (and avoid spray in the wet).

Check your bike over before you go, and take some tools and basic spares with you (bulbs, fuses, possibly spark plugs / tyre plugger kit if you have space), or at least have some form of breakdown recovery (whether AA / RAC or a mate / relation).

If you're staying at your sisters, give her an estimated time of arrival, and send a text periodically on your progress (eg if you stop for food / fuel / cig break and give your location and updated arrival time if you start running late with bad weather for example).

Enjoy the run.

"hardly any ware on discs its only done 6500miles cant understand why they started pitting?" - quite possibly started pitting / rusting through lack of use (the more use they get the "cleaner" they tend to stay).
   
The brakes get checked on a roller (function tested to make sure they work), as long as the brake discs aren't obviously damaged (warping / cracking / heavy scoring etc), they'll be fine.

Whats the "uneven deposits" on the discs? (Its difficult to tell from here without seeing it).

Are you running standard compound pads on them discs or upgraded ones?

If it were my bike, I'd want to suss out why the "uneven deposits" keep coming back; changing the calipers may cure the symptom, but not the underlying "disease" if that makes sense.

@ghostbiker: don't know about other products, but the Muc-Off stuff (according to the bottle) is safe on prescription glasses and sunglasses, as well as visors and goggles.

White van men...

Starting a new job in 2003 at a marine engineers (before the smoking ban came in), I'd been sent on my first day with another mechanic (Liam, if memory serves) to look at a fishing boat 20 miles away. He duly explained to me how everything worked at this firm, and explained also that this particular customer took a particular pride in his boat (smoking was off-limits, and to be very careful not to get the boat dirty with overalls etc). Because we couldn't smoke on the boat, we smoked in the van instead, and one of the first "tricks" he showed me was how to steer using his knees, whilst rolling a cig with wrists atop the steering wheel.....

My usual trick was to roll a load of cigs the night before, which was much easier than trying to do it on the job.

Saw one in a BMW reading a broadsheet newspaper in heavy traffic.

A young lad in a tarted up Corsa belting past on my RHS when I'd indicated and positioned for it (the rest of the traffic passing on the left might have been a clue if his IQ was higher than his finger count).

A 4x4 coming the wrong way up a one-way road.

The one that amused me wasone I saw on my local news a while back - muppet following his twat-nav the the letter, twat nav took him off the road, and he nearly drove the car over a cliff. Another twat-nav fail was the wagon driver who followed the bloody thing blindly and got wedged between 2 buildings!

Diode may be reverse-polarity protection - but it may also be simply acting as a fuse. Its not something I'd replace with wire however.

It may be burned, but it might still be semi-functional - it can happen.

If you have a magnifying glass, you may be able to make out any identifying characters (eg 1N XXXX).

Final point: although you've identified the burned out diode, it'd be a good idea to make sure you've identified any underlying faults to prevent the new one going the same way.

What do you plan to feed from that socket? And where do you plan to mount the socket?