If its started with heavy rain / wet weather, it's probably worth going through electrical / ignition systems looking for signs of water ingress and drying them out as required. Also worth checking for poor earths (rust) while you're at it.

As for water in the tank, has it had fuel in the last 10 days?

Has your bike got a speedo overlay, or warning signs in foreign lingo (which could point to the bike being an import)?

Don't know about the earlier bikes, but the later ones can be switched between km / miles.

I'm with Aviva, and when I enquired about the cost of insurance to fit heated grips and luggage (topbox), I didn't get charged any extra. I did get charged extra when I bought the Fazer, but to be fair it was a far bigger bike than what I'd had before, rather than admin charges.

FWIW, I had a claim on a works policy (also Aviva) after a van decked the bike 10 days after I'd bought it, accident happened Tuesday with the claim settled by Friday, and the bike assessed by the following Friday.

If you're going through brokers, try going directly to insurers (that way you avoid brokers fees etc).

Is it a sports rack you're after, or topbox / pannier rack?

If it helps, I've got a Givi Monokey topbox rack on my S2.

If memory serves, BikeTrac is £299 fitted and around £100 annual subscription.

Haven't fitted one to mine, but if you're in a high-crime-risk area, it may help take the insurance down a bit.

The lights will have a feed (either from a fuse via the light switch, or via the ignition switch, I'm not familiar with the thou but on my FZ6 they come on with ignition), and an earth on the bike's frame, a rusty / bad earth can cause high resistance which would cause dim lighting.

If there's any connector blocks / multi-plugs, make sure they're clean and tight as they can suffer with water ingress and corrode. Bear in mind wiring to clocks will naturally be routed near the headstock and can be affected by steering action.

Chances are you'll find damaged / poor wiring connections are causing the problem, rather than a fault with the circuit board itself - wiring is subjected to vibration / movement, chemical attack and temperature fluctuations (wiring routed near engine suffering constant heating / cooling).

If you have a multimeter, you can try testing for battery voltage (especially on your "dead" bulb holders, the contacts can weaken with time, and pcb tracks can break).

If its an "ordinary" circuit board, it should be repairable if you're handy with a soldering iron, if its one of those surface mount component boards they can be a bugger requiring specialist gear to re-make joints.

(Apologies if I'm "teaching Granny to suck eggs", but in my experience people often overlook basics when diagnosing electrical faults).

If it helps, my FZ6 (which followed on from the FZS) runs 5k rpm at 60mph (standard sprockets on that are 16T front 46T back).

Am with Aviva, they've been generally quite competitive.

Made a claim from works insurance (also Aviva), claim was settled within 3 days, and the bike assessed within 10 days, and the bike ready not long after that.

"Why the foc do the make it sooo difficult to get apart?"

Its mostly to discourage people from taking them apart. To be honest, once they're open, components are that small that you'd be lucky to do anything worthwhile anyway, without specialist skills / tools.

How long has that tyre been on, and (crucially)was the valve changed with it? What dust caps are (were) on it; metal or plastic?

I'm with Dudeness here - if the bikes running ok, I'd leave well alone; if it ain't broke...

Cheers all, nice to know its not just my bike.
Was a bit worried it was going to be a new ignition switch and matching it to the immobiliser / ECU (ie ££££).