My front sprocket and nut is original I think on my 98 with 27,500 miles bike, does this, in your opinions, mean I don't need to change the nut?
I've just purchased the new nut and washer and was going to replace them next month when I get a new chain and front sprocket.
Cheers.

I think you're right to change the nut as Yamaha have highlighted the old 9mm one as a potential safety issue, I'm certainly going to make sure mine has the thicker one before I start riding it.
As an aside, when you get your new chain it's recommended that you change both front and rear sprockets at the same time ( wasn't sure whether you'd just missed that out of your post) 


Steve

Quote from: Freck on 03 July 2015, 12:53:44 pm

If your carbs had been removed and cleaned in an ultrasonic bath they should be spotless, certainly no dirt on them even if all surface corrosion isn't removed.
Have a look here: http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/attachments/bikes-3-wheelers/248086d1307086779-thermal-ultrasonic-cleaning-facilities-pakistan-islamabad-vp-carps.jpg
 
They certainly wouldn't be able to clean just the inside and leave the outside dirty. Sounds to me like they've just run some carb cleaner through them and they're just bullshitting you!
 
As everyone else said, take it back and demand that they sort it out, you've paid for a service which they haven't delivered 
 
Steve

those carbs are both different though...

I should think so, it'd be very difficult to have a before and after in the same picture 

Morning fazerboy and anyone else with alarm problems 
 
I've now uploaded a copy of the Installation instructions for the Datatool alarm - it's in the 'Useful Stuff' section of the Downloads area.
 
Hope this helps you to get your bike running again 
 
Steve

I've got a datatool veto alarm in the box ready to fit, might change my mind now 
 
Maybe it's not the same model as mine, but the one I have is specific to the Fazer and is made to mainly plug in to the bikes loom so didn't think there was much if any wiring modification ( I must admit I haven't looked at the instructions properly)
I can scan in the instruction sheet for you if it'll help.
 
Steve

Have a look in the downloads section Duffy, there's free downloads of manuals for most models 


Steve

I'm probably going to offend someone here but what the hell.......

I wouldn't worry mate, I think there might be a few red flags flying on here at the moment as there's a number of people taking the hump at little bits of banter! I thought bikers usually had a good grasp of sarcasm and a sense of humour (well us northerners do.........you're not a southerner are you? Lol) 


Steve

Quote from: Freck on 26 June 2015, 10:18:36 pm

I do have a GSXR 1000 to play out on in the mean time though so it's not all bad 

SWEEEET! As long as it's not a H&¥¤a that's all that matters. :P

Lol, my missus wouldn't agree, she loves her little H&¥¤a 


Sorry folks, we seem to have hijacked the thread, so I'll say that I've just given the front of my engine a clean up and coat of paint. Headers are off too for a clean and polish, and new stainless studs and nuts.


Lots of other bits planned to be tidied up, unfortunately my OCDs are kicking in and the list is growing...it was only meant to be a bit of a tart up being a cheap hack 


Steve

Hurry up and get it fixed! Summer is amongst us y'know

I'm trying but bloody work keeps getting in the way 
I do have a GSXR 1000 to play out on in the mean time though so it's not all bad 

Hi Nick, welcome to the forum and congrats on the new bike 
You say you rode 20 miles, how did it run? If the wax build up were to be a problem the bike would have been running really rough.
Then again you say that it has been stood for a year with no fuel in it, so is unlikely to have gummed up much anyway 
If it's running ok, I'd be tempted to just give it a good service then ride it.
As for the fuel leak, that sounds more like it could be from the carb float bowl overflow, possibly sticking or damaged floats from lack of use, which will mean a carb overhaul.


Of course I'm only speculating as it's pretty much impossible to diagnose without seeing it or at least some pics.


Good luck though,
Steve

I live on the Blackpool coast, it's flat as a fart! :P

Hello from another Fylde Coast local 


Steve

Quote

torque them up to the correct torque listed on the plug manufacturers website

The only spark plugs I have ever used a torque wrench on were fitted to aircraft engines

I take it you've never read your bikes owners manual then, that specifies the tightening torque for your spark plugs too......RTFM 

Why not get it right, torque them up to the correct torque listed on the plug manufacturers website, or look in the Haynes manual which is in the Downloads section on here if you don't have one.
As an engineer I'm amazed at how many Heath Robinson bodges and ideas people come up with when the right information is readily available!