By sorry buddy but he doesn't like the look of the can, thanks anyway
Simon

No worries bud.
Still available for anyone else then.

Fuel Exhaust. Classic Oval shape with black ceramic finish.
Good Condition, Used, but no dents or scratches.
Hanger bracket and dB killer included.
Standard 2” inlet on the can will fit most bikes, but the link pipe shown here is from Fazer 1000 Gen 1.
£90 posted.

From the Haynes manual :
First fit the type B friction plate, (which is thicker and has the larger internal diameter) so it fits over the anti-judder spring & seat. Now fit a plain plate, followed by a blue colour coded type A friction plate, then alternate plain and friction plates, fitting the two remaining blue-coded friction plates, then the four black-coded type A friction plates.
Hope that helps.
Btw, Haynes manual is a decent investment. Less than £20 on ebay…..

Better to keep it on, unless you ride using mostly the top half of the rev range 
Reasons as per previous post 

Replaced both of mine last weekend because my push cable was a bit frayed. I pulled the carbs halfway out - until the throttle cable cam on the carbs is just outside the frame. It allows easier access, particularly to the pull cable which is a bitch to get in. The push cable is fairly easy.
I did the carb side first, pushed the carbs back in, then did the twistgrip side, and finally the adjustment.
Cables from ebay – just over £30 for both. Gave them both plenty of lube first. Use one of those little cable lube gadget thingy’s. I’ve had one for years - they work well !

Cheers Kwick Kwack !

After the R6 mod, I had dog bones @126mm c-to-c, which I think was roughly the equivalent height as the standard shock setup (open to someone telling me otherwise though )
When the R1 front was put on, I lowered the rear 25mm by making new dog bones @136mm c-to-c.

I have just recently done the same front R1 & rear R6 suspension conversion.
On the front, the R1 USD forks are about 40mm shorter than the originals (I have used 2000/01 5JJ version), so I suspect that your front end will naturally be lower now anyway.
If you have changed dog bones on the rear to make it same height as original, I would expect that you would need to lower the rear in order to come closer to the ‘even keel’ of the original setup. Dropping the forks through the yokes will only lower the front even more.
I can’t remember what the hole centre-to-centre distance is on the original Yamaha standard dogbones.
Does anyone out there have that ?
What is the hole c-c distance of the dogbones you currently have ?
Longer bar risers might be worth considering for a slightly more 'upright' ride ?

Yep, I've got a standard one for the Gen 1 sitting up in the attic somewhere.

When I did mine it was quite an effort to split the tubes from the sliders.
Haynes manual says 'pull the tube sharply outwards until the bottom bush strikes the top bush. Take care not to do this forcibly'. 
yeah, right ..... it required a lot of 'forcibly', and several times ! So much that I had to replace the metal washers between the seals & top bushes - the metal washers had become cone shaped ! 
I guess my original seals had been in there for quite some time.....

Got both, if you're still looking...

It just so happens that I made a note of these dimensions when I was having similar issues.
I also looked at those same K-Tec ones as possible replacements …

I've attached the rough sketch of the original adjuster, if it may be of use to anyone.
The accuracy of the drawing and/or dimensions may be questionable but they should be close enough to give you a good idea  :-)

Much obliged folks ! Useful info !

Well done & thanks for the post. Clearly you've had a lot more patience with them than I had given mine. Mine died a terrible death after 2 days of the pen oil & screwdriver torture. When there is a next time, I shall try your trial by fire   :-) The custom fit screw driver will also increase the chances of success.