I'll have a look and see if I've got something to get the heat more localised, thank you. Or maybe buy a part.

I've got acetone and ATF in the post, so I'll try with that too.

If I can't do it then, I'll just have to take it to a garage after lockdown is done.

Link for the springs is in my first post. Bit expensive though.

Sorry, I missed that. Yowsers, 27 quid for springs. I could get them from my last work for less than a fiver for sure, if I could get the dimensions. I guess I'll measure what I've got and take a punt.

It's clean, but paint in the wrong spot and surface rust around the pivot points are strong suspects. I had a go at the stand, but didn't do anything with the frame side. I'm pretty sure I've got paint touching watching my own video. I'll get it off again and have a go at it.

What's best for getting rust off in this situation, a file? or wire brush on a drill bit?

The outside spring isn't broken, but poor. The inside one pulls so must be whole too. No one knows how I can replace the springs? That's the one thing I still need I think, the rest you've been stars on, thank you.

Pics and vid:

Yes I did the sticking it at an angle, put one bolt in then angle it the other way.

I'll get it off and get some pictures and have another look though. Maybe I've got the springs connected wrong or something, it went on without much effort which is suspicious.

I took a mm off with a dremel to give me a surface, and used a silver steel drift, with the end ground down at an angle to get the purchase. Getting it in was easy, but you need a one of these to do it the way I did.



I also put the bearing in the freezer, which probably didn't help at all but I did it anyway.

Currently I've got Avon Storms on, which I like. But I picked up a nice front wheel to replace my worn disks, and there's a nearly new Avon Roadrider on it, stock size. My question is this:

I obviously want to match tyres, but they don't make 160/60/R17 rears for the roadrider. What would be the right size, or should I stick another storm on the back? They are similar tyres, I have Roadriders on my FZR400. They are designed for "early sportsbikes", so don't have the big 'uns. They aren't noticably softer than the storm.

The front came off another Fazer mk1 so someone has had a roadrider on the back before 150/70? Thanks if you can help.

There's available sizes listed here: http://www.revzilla.com/product/avon-roadrider-am26-rear-tires

I need a nose cone sub frame for a mk1 FZS600 (1998). Has to be straight obv., but skanky is fine

Mine hit the deck quite hard and is bent... again

Thanks peeps, some good tips there. The oil looks clean, like oil not emulsion, although I'll change it as advised and look at it properly when it comes out, and get the carb pipes super clean. Or in fact, just switch them for the spares I have and clean the rubber tubes. It's whether the block is due to the radweld or the o-ring rubber getting somewhere it shouldn't that is concerning me most I think

If it's blocked, I shouldn't run it I think? So how can I use the rad flush to help, just leave it sitting in for a bit?

The radiator failed several times. The repairs were successful, but I had to pinch off the cross pieces which I think increased the pressure in the other cross pieces and caused repeated failures. Or just because they've all experienced the same conditions so have failed at about the same time. It was cracking across the edges of the cross pieces, it really crumbed in the end. I've learned that a radiator in bad condition should be replaced, even if it is working.

I made some poor decisions to say the least in needing to get back quickly for work, not helped by stroppy rip off Italian mechanics, and other friendly but ineffective ones. What I should have done is ordered one from Delkevic or the one I got from eBay and sat tight. I didn't get back any quicker than if I had in the end.

The Delvevic tip is a top one, I've already ordered a pattern one from eBay though, new but providence unknown.

Ok, so it's all done and I won

I did a bit of dremelling behind the race and it worked a treat. A gentle pop with my new and more suitable stick, er, I mean drift, and it came out no trouble. my thinking with the dremelling is that I didn't have a surface that the drift didn't just slip off before, so how tight or loose it was was of secondary importance. I went maybe a mm deep, I'm sure that won't make much difference to structural strength. There's 2 much bigger ones at the bottom anyway from a previous owner. I ground a notch and got it shifted a mm or so. Then did the same again at about 120 degrees to the first, and then a third... then just tapped it out a bit at a time.

The new race has a much bigger lip, so will come off no sweat. I don't think the one's I've taken out are original since there are pre-existing notches at the bottom, so maybe they are just particularly skinny ones. I've tried taking pictures for others attempting it, but my camera isn't up to it.

I did dremel into the race itself slightly, but I used a flat top grinding  piece, putting in a new unworn one to do the mm vertically just below the race so it was flat. Because the ground surface of the race is still perpendicular to the drift it still knocked it out. The races are a lot harder than the steel of the frame as well of course; impressively hard in fact. I don't know what alloy they are made of but on experimenting I could barely make a scratch with a hacksaw.

Putting them in wasn't much trouble, having used the freezer trick (ta ) although I put together a puller using a M10 thread thingummy and massive washers which I got off the forum somewhere and is in the Haynes.

The top of the top race is flush with the top of the frame housing when right in, so that will go in no problem with an 'ammer, just tap it flat. The bottom one would go in using the hammer and the old one on top as a guide so it can push further than flush with the edge of the frame tube if that makes sense. It's deeper in than the top.

So I thought I'd brain dump for if anyone else is doing it. If you are and the above might be helpful but I haven't been clear or owt then let me know and I'll try and let you know what I did, assuming I can remember;)

Here's a picture, which I did before noticing that 69oldskool has described the same idea of pushing the drift away from the tube to keep it tight under the race 



The drift I've used is a 30cm long 10cm diameter rod of silver steel which is nice and hard with a suitable edge for the dremelled ditches, and you can get from a decent trade shop for 3 or 4 quid.

Cheers for all the suggestions on here. Even the ones I haven't done are good tips and I've learned something for the mental toolbox for the next problem, and for the next people doing this:)

So mother of god, that's hard to get out of the frame. Can anyone who's done it give me some pointers? I'm well stuck, and of course it's not something I can drop in at the shop.

The bottom one I've got, as there are some big groves scored into the frame so I can get a purchase behind it with my makeshift drift.

I'm going to go down to my local general purpose tool shop and see if they can sell me something more suitable to use as a drift... any good tips on what's best to use? Bend it, file it sharp along one edge etc? Would a heat gun at the top help?

How about if I just drilled through the damn thing? This would make it easy to flip off, but of course I'd go into the frame behind. Would this have safety and handling implications?

Thanks if you can help. I'm having a bit of a tilt at the moment, I thought it would just come straight off and I've been at it for a good 3 hours. I've done it on my little FZR before and they just fall off, I don't get why they have to be so tight - and so f**king inaccessible - on the fazer 

In need of a radiator for my mkI Fazer 600 if anyone has one. If you do, price and picture please! I'm in Leeds.