This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - neilr
26
« on: 25 February 2021, 11:34:25 am »
Is your clutch cable adjusted properly at both ends?
That's what I would start with.
if its wasnt correctly set then it would THUD , lurch and stall not just cut out when putting in gear, certainly an electrical issue as its a combo of safety cut out switches not opening/closing a circuit
Thanks everyone i believe the clutch cable is set correctly as i have not had any issues with it in the past, looks like a side stand switch. Ill carry out the checks mentioned before tackling removal.
He's not actually mentioned if any of this is happening or not though.
Gotta start with the obvious and easiest things first, so if it's clutch related then you must have the clutch cable set up correctly for starters so that it can be eliminated.
The cable could even be frayed inside as well, and simply need replacing.
By the way, i notice nobody has mentioned what a nightmare the sidestand switch is to replace, and it's in a horrible position to get access to, so take that into consideration as it is not a straightforward swap at all. Just thought i'd give a heads up on that one.
Quick update, finally nailed the fault it was an intermittent connection on the pick up coil plug. As the side stand plug and neutral plug are located in the same place as the pick up plug i must have pulled one of the wire and so it became intermittent when trying to run. Still unsure as to why it caused me to have to pull the clutch lever in to start but it RUNS!! Thanks again everyone for all your help.
27
« on: 25 February 2021, 09:07:51 am »
Is your clutch cable adjusted properly at both ends?
That's what I would start with.
if its wasnt correctly set then it would THUD , lurch and stall not just cut out when putting in gear, certainly an electrical issue as its a combo of safety cut out switches not opening/closing a circuit
Thanks everyone i believe the clutch cable is set correctly as i have not had any issues with it in the past, looks like a side stand switch. Ill carry out the checks mentioned before tackling removal.
He's not actually mentioned if any of this is happening or not though.
Gotta start with the obvious and easiest things first, so if it's clutch related then you must have the clutch cable set up correctly for starters so that it can be eliminated.
The cable could even be frayed inside as well, and simply need replacing.
By the way, i notice nobody has mentioned what a nightmare the sidestand switch is to replace, and it's in a horrible position to get access to, so take that into consideration as it is not a straightforward swap at all. Just thought i'd give a heads up on that one.
28
« on: 24 February 2021, 04:24:40 pm »
Sounds like sidestand switch - have a look you should see an industrial looking micro switch that has a plunger located so the side stand touches it when the stand is up.
So do you think the side stand switch is playing around that's why i have to hold the clutch lever in to disconnect the clutch micro switch? that in turn enable the bike to start?
29
« on: 24 February 2021, 03:50:05 pm »
heads thinking sidestand switch isnt disengaging (putting in gear kill)
i cant remember if clutch is always needed to start or not im sure someone will say below
do you still have a neutral light coming on, if you dont then than would say a problem with the neutral indicator switch/wire aswell
Hi you could always start the bike before without having to pull the clutch lever in and yes the neutral light is working fine. Seems as if the clutch lever switch is working in reverse, ie: having to pull the clutch lever in to start the bike as opposed to how it should work i think?
30
« on: 24 February 2021, 03:09:31 pm »
Hi
I have a yamaha fazer fzs 600 on a 03 plate, seems to have developed an electrical fault. The bike will only start when the clutch lever is pulled in and when released it cuts out straight away.
Second when running if put in gear it instantly cuts out, i suspect both fault are related. Any help would same me a major headache.
Thanks in advance.
31
« on: 14 February 2021, 12:41:14 pm »
Hi
just check my pick up coils as ive no spark at the plugs, my meter is reading just over 197 ohms between pins on the pick up loom. does anyone know if this reading is within specification as I cant seem to find any specs and my Haynes does not have it either. Also what output should the pickup be sending to the tci(pulse i believe its called)
Thanks
32
« on: 13 February 2021, 03:15:42 pm »
Hi
looking for some info, i need to check my pick up coil resistance but seem unable to find it in my Haynes. Does any one know what to resistance should be?
many thanks in advance.
33
« on: 07 February 2021, 09:35:39 pm »
[/size]Hi i have no spark at the plug and have carried out the below checks:[/color]
[/size][/color]
[/size]no spark with plug removed and ground to engine body, plug cap resistance taken all within the correct ranges.[/color][/size]Primary and secondary reading taken from both coils again within correct ranges.12v being supplied to the coils when engine is turned over but no spark at the plug?(12v feed at primary connectors)TPS wires belled back to plug at the CDI/TDI all clearany suggestion what to test next[/color]
34
« on: 07 February 2021, 03:15:16 pm »
Hi, hope some one can help, im looking at replacing my CDI unit info on the unit(J4T095 72 5DM-01 2X08) and was looking at second hand units. All the info is the same on other units except the last four digit(on my unit 2X08). My question is are any of the other units interchangable ie: 2000 model to a 2003 or 1998 to a 2003. I cant seem to find and info to say they are or are not.  thanks in advance
35
« on: 09 December 2020, 05:43:07 pm »
yes. There are screws between 1&2 to balance them, between 3&4 to balance them and then 2&3. If #3 is the base then start getting 3&4 then 1&2 and finally 2&3
Thanks again but i had to ask 
36
« on: 09 December 2020, 05:23:22 pm »
 - If thats what the manual says then it is #3 not #2
Thanks everyone for your help ill try that setup! 
sorry for asking a silly question but here goes, carb 3 is sync with 4, then carbs 1 and 2 then 2 and 3? is that right?
37
« on: 09 December 2020, 05:18:22 pm »
- If thats what the manual says then it is #3 not #2
Thanks everyone for your help ill try that setup!
38
« on: 09 December 2020, 02:01:13 pm »
When on the bike, #1 is synced with #2, #3 with #4 and then #3 with #2. I would say #2
So at a guess you would say No2 is the bench Carb?
39
« on: 09 December 2020, 01:58:26 pm »
When on the bike, #1 is synced with #2, #3 with #4 and then #3 with #2. I would say #2
So at a guess you would say No2 is the bench Carb?
40
« on: 09 December 2020, 01:11:20 pm »
Hi I have a yamaha fazer fzs 600(2003) i have removed stripped and cleaned my carbs. I have read the you can bench sync your carb to get them into the rough ball park before being more precise when fitted to the bike. The information I'm looking for relates to the base carb, I'm [size=78%] at a loss as to which on is the base carb, any help would be fantastic.[/size]
41
« on: 06 April 2018, 12:55:48 pm »
Hi
Many thanks for your reply.
42
« on: 05 April 2018, 08:52:36 am »
Hi everyone newbie here,
Not sure if this is the right place to post so apologies in advance. I have a 2003 fazer fzs 600 and my ignition swith has been attacked by some undesirables! Long story short I can insert the key but have to wiggle and twist before it will turn and I get my dash lights, unfortunately with the engine running I can now remove the key from the ignition switch!( some what dangerous).
My question is I have been looking at the earlier model of the fazer 600's fzs ignition switch and they only have 6 wires where as my model the 03 version has 7. Looking at the wiring diagrams it appears that on the later models the addition wire(Brown) independently feeds the fuse? Can anyone please tell me are the earlier model ignition switches interchangeable with the later models or am I going to have to take out a mortgage to by a genuine part as the later model switchs are impossible to get hold of second hand.
Please any help would be greatly appreciated.
43
« on: 05 April 2018, 08:24:09 am »
Hi, I wonder if any of you have any ideas on what may be causing this?
I've been running my 99 FZS600 throughout the winter with no issues but in the last week I've noticed that there has been a funny problem starting. Intermittently it decides that it won't fire when I first press the starter button, it usually does on the second or third try with no problems. That issue hadn't really been bothering me too much as it always started, but I popped out on it at lunchtime and on the way back the engine just died. I pulled over to the side and it started again on the second or third push of the starter.
I'm off tomorrow but ideally id like to work out what might be causing this over the weekend. The problem is that it doesn't happen consistently, most of the time it will fire first time and its never cut out on me before today.
My primary suspect is the spark plugs, I had them out last year for a clean when I was servicing the bike but it may have been a few years since I've replaced them but I'm not sure that would have caused the bike to cut out. Other than that would I be looking at fuel pump, coil,cut off switch and ignition switch as the next likely suspects?Anything else I'm missing?thanksStuart
|
Show Posts