deffo the speedo drive take it out  and re grease  it be careful to put it back in properly or the lugs will break off

Could it just be wind noise, vent in top of helmet making noise?
Would make sense it getting louder the faster you go. Just a suggestion.


But my guess would be the same as others as the speedo sensor has recently been replaced.
 

Quote from: tommyardin on 21 December 2018, 01:38:58 pm

Quote from: fazersharp on 21 December 2018, 11:07:14 am

Take the opportunity to remove the exhaust studs and replace with stainless steel. Search the forum for exhaust studs.

  Definitely a good move, did mine while still in the frame, not easy but not impossible either.
Stainless studs with plain steel nuts, or, Stainless nuts on plain steel studs.
Stainless with Stainless is not good because of 'Galling' (Cold Welding) can make it impossible to undo.

Stainless steel turnbuckles on a yachts standing rigging are a disaster, they are strong and fine until you need to adjust or remove them.

Had a survey done on Zara (Yacht) last spring ready for the new season (Insurance requirement) and we had to take the mast down for the survey and to replace a navigation light head, ended up having to cut all the turnbuckles off with a disc cutter as they refused to shift.
6 new turnbuckles at £47 each and a lot of work. I put one of the old turnbuckles in an engineers vice and attacked it with a set of 24" Stilsons, all I managed was to twist the 60 mm long x 10mm stud around like a candy twist and snap it off, no sign of movement on the threads. Don't need galling on an exhaust stud.

It's worth putting dab of copper slip on the studs before you spin the nuts on, I remove the stud nuts one at a time, not all at once, each year and reapply copper slip to each as a part of my winterisation service, they come undo with no problems at all.    

Using different grades of stainless steel is supposed to go a long way towards avoiding the risk of galling.
I used A2 threaded rod for the studs and A4 dome nuts and haven’t had any problem. Though admittedly, I do stuff the nuts with Copaslip too which would probably be adequate protection even if you used the same grade of stainless for both nut and stud.

Same as that, I used S/Steel studs, plain steel nuts and S/Steel dome nuts over the top to act as lock nut, it also keep the water away from the stud end, along with Copper Slip.

Take the opportunity to remove the exhaust studs and replace with stainless steel. Search the forum for exhaust studs.

  Definitely a good move, did mine while still in the frame, not easy but not impossible either.
Stainless studs with plain steel nuts, or, Stainless nuts on plain steel studs.
Stainless with Stainless is not good because of 'Galling' (Cold Welding) can make it impossible to undo.

Stainless steel turnbuckles on a yachts standing rigging are a disaster, they are strong and fine until you need to adjust or remove them.

Had a survey done on Zara (Yacht) last spring ready for the new season (Insurance requirement) and we had to take the mast down for the survey and to replace a navigation light head, ended up having to cut all the turnbuckles off with a disc cutter as they refused to shift.
6 new turnbuckles at £47 each and a lot of work. I put one of the old turnbuckles in an engineers vice and attacked it with a set of 24" Stilsons, all I managed was to twist the 60 mm long x 10mm stud around like a candy twist and snap it off, no sign of movement on the threads. Don't need galling on an exhaust stud.

It's worth putting dab of copper slip on the studs before you spin the nuts on, I remove the stud nuts one at a time, not all at once, each year and reapply copper slip to each as a part of my winterisation service, they come undo with no problems at all.    

It's a shame they can't eliminate knife crime as efficiently as they can eliminate Fazers. There's money involved though isn't there.


You've either got to go older or newer. Pre 1978 is exempt as is post 2007. If you're in roughly that 30 years in between you're stuffed.


The Historic Vehicle exemption is rolling I believe, so if you put them on SORN and wait 20 years the first Boxeyes become exempt.

The Foxeye Fazer might last that long but I certainly will not

This is good I've had it on my exhaust for 2 yrs

Bought a can of red, same make, but never have tried it, was going to paint the rocker cover on my Spider but put a rod through the side of the block before I got around to painting it.
My eyes are still red from crying and it happened over two years ago.

Hi Lauri. Nice looking bike. Those late boxeyes with the dual colours always look good. Pity about the change of exhaust  There are some nice light non standard ones with baffles. I've got a Fuel which just adds a little bit of 'character'.

Much the same as that, Got a 'Pipewerxs' sports can on my FZS600 with removable baffles, not a lot of difference in or out to be honest, but it makes the bike MOT legal with them in,

I have one I keep in the boot of my Hairdressers Car

Waxy-Lemon  that is funny though.
 But the establishment has for a long time wanted him out of the picture they don't like it when people speak an unauthorized narrative that "they" think will harm cohesion.(stand by fazersharp for the reply "like -blah-blah"--- pick an extreme example to make a one off point  ) 
If you believe half the stuff you are told by the establishment then good for you - carry on watching I'm a celebrity and have a nice life.
FYI I don't believe in just about anything I am told by the political class.I have come to my conclusions through my own experience and my judgment has seen me well for the last x- number of years. (that and BEER)

But mostly beer

Found on F/Book
https://www.facebook.com/uniladmag/videos/512950682524090/UzpfSTEwMDAwMTg5Njk3MzM5OToxOTY5NzU4MzUzMzI2MTgy/?multi_permalinks=1969012416734109&notif_id=1544442451016594&notif_t=group_highlights

If you ran into him as hard as it looks it was probably shit after he had a bowel loosening moment   

That the Loomies at West Meon Hut, I know there is another Loomies cafe somewhere

Maybe not such a good idea to have stainless studs and nuts. This has been discussed before, and a better option would be steel studs and stainless nuts, with the possible option of stainless cap nuts to seal the end of the stud. It's been known for a stainless/stainless combination to gall, or fuse together. The steel stud/ stainless nut/cap nut, was the route I chose to go on my thou, and has worked out fine.

I am with Robbo on the S/S nuts on S/S studs, Galling or Cold Weld can happen and if it does you will never move then again, as robbo said either plain studs with S/S nuts or S/S studs with plain steel nuts. Light smear of copper slip on the thread before doing them up. Again what I did was to spin 8 domed nuts over the top of the stud nuts, they act as locking nuts and help keep the moisture out.

Which ever putty you decide on I am sure either will do the job just fine, ensure that you clean the area with a course emery paper to give a key and remove any dirt. Also make sure that the hose is attached to the pipe before fixing the alloy pipe to the radiator as twisting pushing and screwing the pipe back on could cause issues.

(Support the re[pair with string, bungees or block it in place while it sets)
I know with Milliput you can model the putty with moist fingers to give a smooth and tidy finish, It may be the same with others.
I have read somewhere that you can even drill and tap a thread into Milliput.

I will buy some of the J B Weld and give it a try, its always good to have two types of weapon in your armoury.

Thanks for the post Sharpie