More normally you'd install a converter module in the connection box that makes the speedo read mph.
I guess this is a cheaper way of doing it!

I'm going to be putting stainless downpipes on soon due to a holey collector. The Fazer's getting louder every day.
While I'm at it, I figure I'll change the exhaust studs to stainless too, so as to avoid any future troubles with snapping studs etc..
Not too keen on paying $$$ for studs so I'll get a length of M6 threaded stainless bar from Toolstation for £2 and cut it to length.
Any reason not to do this?
What length should the studs be?

Cheers

The pads probably aren't too thick. You do need to retract the pistons til they're almost flush.
The pistons get corroded and don't want to retract so pump them a bit further out and clean them properly before forcing them back in with a G clamp.

Good to know.
How do you judge when the front sprocket needs replacing?
To change it, do you break the chain or loosen the rear axle bolts?

What's the story with braided hoses?
I understand they make your brakes feel stiffer. I reckon my brakes feel fine (I don't ride hard) so this is not a big deal for me.
Presumably they are more expensive than rubber hoses and are more inclined to corrosion (the braiding is usually galvanised steel wire no?).
Does anybody install rubber hoses any more?

The work's going well so far.
Overhauled the rear brake caliper in the weekend.
The hardest part was getting all the varnish out of the seal grooves.
I put new seals and pistons in but didn't split the caliper.
Also put in a K&N air filter today.
Next job, new downpipes. I tried a few of the nuts and they came loose easy enough so I don't expect any problems with broken studs.
Is it worth changing the studs for stainless while I've got the downpipes off?
Do I need a stud  remover or is the 2 nut trick fine for this?

I'm in the market for a torque wrench.
This one from Amazon looks pretty good
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0001K9T24/ref=aw_cr_item_title
It's cheap, gets good reviews and is simple.
My only concern is not having a ratchet mechanism, it might be impossible to use in tight spaces. What do you reckon?
 
Cheers
Elbrownos

Haha cool, didn't know I had a foxeye.
It's a 5RT1-101 (German import)

Hello All
Just joined the forum because I've got quite a bit of work to do on my '02 FZS600 and could do with some advice
I'm in Nottingham, been riding the bike for 18 months.
I don't have a car and commute 40 miles a day (mostly on the M1).
All year except a week or two when there's ice on the road.
The bike's in good condition(12k miles) but suffering from the salt.
I've been pretty slack with maintenance so far but here's what I've got coming up:
Rebuilding the rear brake caliper (pistons and seals)
New stainless exhaust
K&N air filter
Balance carbs
Front sprocket nut
Change coolant, oil & filter
Fork dust seals
General de-rusting & painting

Cheers
elbrownos

4000 feels perfect to me, its ok down to 3000 and too rough below that. What rpm do you change at? I change up at 5000 (normal riding)

Like markaboot I normally ride with two fingers on the brake. These fingers will freeze even with heated grips.
If it's really cold I'll wrap my hands around the grips, but even then your fingertips will freeze while your palms will be scorching.
The best thing I've found is muffs.
Tucano Urbano muffs are absolutely brilliant (model R361 on my FZS600 '02)
I'd probably be fine with just the muffs and winter gloves, but since I already had heated grips on then I use the muffs, grips on low, and summer gloves.
Toasty hands down to -4 degrees.
I've got these grips and they are fine http://www.jsaccessories.co.uk/dr-bike-drmhgc001-drmhg-heated-grips.html

I'm in Nottingham and will also be looking to borrow somebody's balancer as soon as I get around to replacing my exhaust.
£57 sounds like a bargain and all, but not for something you only use once...