You could split the caliper in half and turn the pin out with a vice grip

Unbolt the front sprocket cover from the bike. Pull the clutch lever. Is it smooth and free when you pull it or is it still stiff? Most likely is that the cable is freyed and binding.

Sounds like it's running normally to me. The idle is a bit low. It should be around 1150 to 1250rpm when hot. There's is definitely a bit of wetness under the carb near the air box. It's hard to tell where exactly it's coming from. It looks higher than the breather pipe and it's not the usual emulsified oil. Is that rust on the ground from the leak? It looks a bit like rusty coolant water. Is the wet area coolant?

There's a Haynes in the download section too Personally I don't like Haynes manuals. I think the factory workshop manuals are a lot better. I'd only use a Haynes as a last resort if no factory manual is available. Luckily bike manufacturers seem happy to release their manuals whereas car manufacturers don't. Another reason why bikes are better than cars

Is it easily done with engine in the frame still or best to drop it out first?

Leave it in. If you wanted to do a proper job you could take it out and spray it but it's a lot of work.

The factory bars give an upright position

I'd take out spark plug on 3 and check that the cylinder isn't flooded. Crank the engine a few times and look for fuel spraying out of the cylinder. If it's not flooded you could check for spark while you have the plug out. Be careful not to light yourself on fire If it is flooded the float valve in carb 3 is probably stuck open. If it's flooded check the oil level. The petrol washed down the cylinders and contaminates the oil. If it's not flooded put the plug back in. Turn the choke on and start the engine. Let it run for a few minutes with the choke on. Does the exhaust on cylinder 3 start to get hot with the choke on? If it does then that would suggest the pilot circuit is blocked in carb 3 and you will have to clean it. You said there was dirt in the fuel when you took the bowls off did you give the tank a clean? If not I'd give it a clean with some fresh fuel. Was there any water in the bowls? If so I'd check the drain on the tank. If the drain is blocked rain water will collect around the filler neck and get into the tank , then it settles in the tank and the carb bowls and makes starting difficult. To get to the drain you open the filler cap and take the allen bolts out and give the drain a poke and a spray of wd40 to clear it. The main thing is check if it's flooded, if it's not run it with choke and check if cylinder 3 gets hot with choke. If it does the pilot circuit on 3 is probably blocked.

I printed out DUDE'S instructions...even on paper they are pretty confusing...
Has he been INGESTING some MIND ALTERING substance......???

I got a good laugh out of that Someone did a proper hack job on that loom! If you want everything back to original you could always take the cowards way out and buy a used loom off ebay. It would be plug and play as long as all the factory connectors are intact, no head scratching required. They're fairly cheap too. Just make sure it's the correct loom

explains why there are no fairings here then

Details

Have you done a wheelie school? It's definitely on my to do list

Another thing that could cause the side stand to have no effect would be if the neutral switch was short to ground. The ignitor would be getting the ground it needs all the time so the side stand would have no effect but if that was happening you would expect to see the neutral indicator light on all the time even when the bike was in gear.

Looks good to me. The silver lights go well with the silver bike

Nice job! The paint came out great