I'm selling my trailer  its a professionally built Hazelwood  model  ,weight limit 500kgs  but limited to 60 section rear tyre( 600 Fazer) it has 8 inch standard trailer wheels and rubber suspension
will dismantle to fit into a hatchback car, now listed + picture on local freeads site Viva St  located nr Redruth in Cornwall
asking £100 for it

The thou unit is a straight swap for the 600 unit. either caliper will lock the rear wheel
its just there is more feel in the thou unit but not £85 more

Bit over my head this ,but the point is the 1000 and r6 gas assistance can be adjusted
wheras the 600 oil/spring unit is fixed so in theory either should be better than the 600 basic unit, In my experience the r6 unit on my thou and the 1000 unit (600 spring) on the 600 are much better than stock

I made myself a mra vario from using a cut down top of an old screen , and vario hinges bought from the mra importer for around £25 this works very well on my foxeye 600 , works much better in fact than the genuine vario which I have on my gen1 thou, although the bikes and screens layout look the same , they are quite different on the two bikes

I have a special bag strapped to where the pillion sits . holds on with a sort of crossed bungee strap idea . advantages are .it does not catch the wind and slightly affect the handling as (top box on my thou) also gives me something to rest my arse against. only disasdvantage I have notices(apart from the lost passenger space) is that I have to lift my right legg quite high to clear the bag. I also like a loaded tank bag as I can rest against it on long trips , taking weight of my arms

I've had a thou shock on my 600 "with 600 spring" for two seasons now. I never have cause to think about what the suspension is doing . A good sign that all is well in my books

Some heat is probs vour best bet , I had a similar issue recently with stuck brake disc studds.

I have had 2 fazer 600's my inlaw still has one neither have had this trouble great bike don't be put of

Mine was broke of completely. I stuck it together with araldite, then i cut a piece of metal body repair mesh and fibre glassed it in from behind
finally On the outside I ground around the break with a dremmel and filled it in with body filler I masked of the area from the rest and finished of with aerosol paint. can't tell it was broke now!

I got two car wheel nuts welded back to back, I  keep it under the seat in case the rac man does not have a tool.
I change my own tyres using, my jacked up astra with spare wheel rim fitted as bead breaking tool , I put an old car mat down to protect the wheel from ground abrasions, you need to be carefull with the front just tip it upwards at the rear to avoid presure on the brake discs, or alternatively a front wheel will fit in a  large vice .I have cheep balancing tool bought on e bay for not much. If you have trouble making the beads seal when inflating the fitted tyre, just blow up  a car wheel to about 60 psi remove the valve on the bike wheel and fit a foot pump hose of similar betwean the car and bike tyres, Ive fitted lots using this system , but if you are not confident in these things you must pay yer money etc, I would not change tyres before they are due, as they are expensive enough to change when they are knackered.

Easy repair to do, I had a low speed of early this year. I bought a damaged nose cone of e bay ,then repaired it at my leasure .  one thing that I had not anticipated was the clock mounts were damaged and also the large front fairing mount was slightly out of line. depends how handy you are but an easy operation if you do it in stages. I finally got the paint matched at a local motor factor around the whole job coat £50 max

Lots of smaller companies do one of vinyl graphics. the genuine ones will be very expensive. have a look on e bay , I got some for my push bike that were quite good when laquered