Can't see that being a problem. They can't go anywhere.

Surely you can get any ball bearings from anything if you can match the one you have up?

They look similarly sized to the ones in the clutch rod housing too though that's a guess as I don't have one to hand, I can't find my spare.

Also is dot4 the best bet for brake fluid, or is 5.1 a good shout? As I'm fitting braided lines at the same time and all that?

Cheers

And assumably the way to measure the new and old chain is to count the links and use the same amount on the new one as the old?

Sorry for what may seem silly questions just want everything correct

Sounds brilliant, I'll get on the website now. Might even order up

Seems logical I guess.

Perhaps something I'll look into soon

That way sounds far more cost effective, the bikes only done 28k, seems silly To rebuild.

Any of you guys want the job, if local enough of course? Lol

Done the tensioner again, to be sure. That seems the case.
Ive pushed it in with something to ensure its tight but not too tight etc..

Had a feeling chain would be the outcome.

Whats going to be the best solution for this? Obviously a new chain, but any advice on this?

Assumably an engine out job?

Will riding it as it is do any major damage for the time being? as there's still adjustament on there, is it going to get worse?

ie can I use for the summer and take off the road end of summer, remove the engine and so on, or is my summer prematurely over?

Cheers

What are the reasons for doing this?

Do you mean there is only 2 notches left to take up the slack on the chain or 2 notches from the front of the tensioner where it pushes against the guide or 2 notches left in these in the tensioner? 2 from the guide side is good 2 notches from the back is bad.

There is a some stretch on the chain as the dots are behind the cam cap marks.

Rotate the rotor counter clockwise until the marks line up again and check it the marks stay the same and do this about 4 more times and see if there are any changes in the line up. if there is any change the chain has tight spots which may be the cause of the slight rattle you say you have.

With the cams in this position you should be able to slide the feeler guage in between the cam lobe and bucket over the valve on the 4 valves on the 1st cylinder . See example in page 3-6 on of the manual

Rotate the rotor counter clockwise 180degrees and you should be able to check the clearance of the no 2 cylinder

Another 180 and check the no 4 cylinder and a further 180 check the no 3 cylinder

Valve clearance (cold)

Intake valve
0.11
0.20 mm Ideally the 0.11 should slide in nicely and the 0.20 should not slide in. If .20 slides in easily there is to much clearance

Exhaust valve
0.21
0.30 mm Ideally the 0.21 should slide in nicely and the 0.30 should not slide in. If .30 slides in easily there is to much clearance


What you are doing is really ruling out causes of the noise.

I presume you check the downpipes for small holes which can give really funny sounds

Couldn't find much in the manual unless im being poor.

When I take the tensioner out, I can pull it out to full lengths by 2 more clicks. it isn't fully extended, but in another 2 clicks it will be.

I've rotated it several times counter clockwise, and the dors stay exactly the same as they are in the pics, no different at all, if anything I've lined the T up a touch better and they've all been pretty much bang on.

The results I got are:

Cylinder 1 Inlet 0.15mm for both
Cylinder 1 Exhaust 0.23 for both (0.20 was easy and 0.25 needed a little more friction though not mega tight.

Cylinder 2 Inlet 0.13mm Both
Exhaust 0.25mm Both

Cylinder 3 Inlet 0.15mm was about right
Cylinder 3 Exhaust 0.25mm Both

Cylinder 4 Inlet 0.15-0.18 for Both
On the exhaust side, the valve closer to cylinder 3 was 0.25 but the valve closest to me was more like 0.23.

Are these reasonable, I'm trying to compare with your results now

Thanks

Would it not be best test these things when its cold, ie before you've tried starting it on the button at all?

There's more chance then, that the results you get are 'true'.

If you've tried once or twice on the button before testing, the chances are that the third time, the testing time, has sorted the issue again and the readings are false?
Has been mentioned before but nobody actively mentioned trying it from cold before trying it on the button if that makes any sense...

This correct? T mark with the crank case join at the front of the bike and the 2 dots on the cams with the mark?

Look a tiny amount out but trivial to me?

Not gone thus far yet.
Just advanced the tensioner one click manually.

There was 3 clicks  left and now there's 2.

Started up and still noisy from cold so it's warming up now to see if that helps.

If there's still clicks on the tensioner am i right in thinking that's good news for the chain?