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Messages - Slaninar

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101

General / Re: Gender discrimination

« on: 29 March 2018, 06:30:26 pm »

Quote from: focced_off on 29 March 2018, 01:12:04 pm

Quote from: Slaninar on 27 March 2018, 06:16:04 am
The greatest inequality is not between genders, but between classes. But you can't complain about that AND live in a capitalist country. It's like complaining about the heat in Africa.

In THIS country (UK) I think the biggest issue (threat) are the "ethnic minorities".
They are coming here planting their seed, pushing their (third world) religions, then screaming racist when one of us "white" people criticise.

We have someone who just recently joined our team at work - he disappears off to the "prayer room" several times during the working day (about 20 minutes each time) - I didn't even know we had a payer room!! He never stated this was part of his daily ritual, when he came for the interview, plus from our perspective its another excuse for him to do nothing and slope out of the office.

They will happily isolate their daughters for getting into a relationship with someone outside of their "religion", for disrespecting their family (honour), yet the Males in these families will happily go around (in the UK) grooming "white girls"... then get a slap on the hand by the law, as this country is so PC and afraid to appear racist (back where we started).

It's a plague that will only get worse - yet lets all bury our heads and pretend its not happening (from the man on the street, establishments, to the law).
They are here to "enrich" society??? They refuse to contribute or interact with society, building up "communities" in towns and cities. Then we mock EDL !

Unfortunately, I've had the "pleasure" of living in a city that had it's population double in a relatively short period, mostly by refugees. Same nation, religion, but mostly from rural areas, with different mentality. And it wasn't very nice, in spite of relatively small differences.

It also depends a lot on the number (and percentage) of "incomers", as well as how you integrate them into society. A man I know who had worked all his life in Austria had an Austrian coleague comment, dead serious, in a friendly manner, something like: "I can't believe you really are a Serb, you are so nice and hard working!"

As for complaints, some are OK, some are bullshit. Don't see any problems with grooming "white girls". Isolation for "getting into other religions" is bad IMO, though you could give a questionnarie to your friends:
1. "Do you hate/dislike Muslims"?
2. "Would you mind your daughter marrying a Muslim?"
And see the number of people answering with no, then yes.

So being weary of "strangers" is not only a Muslim thing - the more primitive a culture, the more extreme it gets though I think.

For the worker - I'd say that in an 8 hour work day, having several 20 minute brakes can help if the job requires concentration.

This book was eye opening for me, in terms you reap what you sow:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Crusades_Through_Arab_Eyes

102

General / Re: Anyone had an HJC IS-16 and IS-17?

« on: 28 March 2018, 06:27:39 am »

IS-3 is a much safer option, though a bit tough to get a hold of.

103

General / Re: Gender discrimination

« on: 27 March 2018, 06:16:04 am »

Capitalism is unfair. But if you have capitalism, of course you'll have a pay gap. If you want communism, just say so.

I had worked at a bike repair (and sale) shop. Had the same job title as all the other mechanics. A few top mechanics had about 50% higher pays. There were two women, with the same job title, but they didn't (want to) do any wrenching. Good workers as well, but they were doing the sales and customer talking. When I learned how much the "top" guys get paid, as well as which one among them got the biggest pay, didn't have any complaints. If anyone had asked me who I'd pay the most and, of all those people, who I would first pick for the job - those were the highest paid ones. If anyone did a pay review - yes, women were paid less. They were also not the one's coming in for overtime, weekend rushes etc, since they wanted to spend more time with their kids. It is cruel, unfair - capitalism always is. But I don't think it has much to do with gender.

BTW, pretty soon after having arrived there, the top guys would use my name as an example how it should be done. However, I left relatively quickly, having realised there's not much left to learn and opened my own shop. So far so good. If I had stayed there, I'd have asked for a higher pay. When hiring a mechanic, IMO it would be stupid to disregard a woman, or pay her less and have her leave, just because she's a woman. My main criteria would be the quality of work, attention to details, good "diplomacy" with the (troublesome) customers and commitment. This last thing is the main difference IMO. Women are probably not as crazy as men and most of them put family before the career.

All those studies never seem to ask the workers being studied what they thing of the pays. Same goes for managers, of course. Do those, less paid female workers/managers thing they deserve to be paid as high as the top paid workers/managers?

The greatest inequality is not between genders, but between classes. But you can't complain about that AND live in a capitalist country. It's like complaining about the heat in Africa.

104

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end

« on: 26 March 2018, 07:31:24 am »

Quote from: Disorderlypunk on 25 March 2018, 12:42:06 am

Quote from: mtread on 23 March 2018, 09:22:08 am
I'm with Slaninar, Scottoiler all the way. It includes a cleaning fluid and chains last 3+ times as long, that's proven. The container holds enough oil for at least 500 miles, so how can you forget to top it up? Would you forget to check tyre pressures? Better Scottoil than that sticky dirt magnet stuff that comes out of cans.

500 miles - holy crap i would have to refill it every week at least
i agree with matt entirely on this

if you ride in all weathers they are not the best of ideas (although usefull to a degree) and as for 3x longer - in comparison to what ???
a properly looked after chain removing the road crap will last just as long as any scottoiler looked after chain, especially with o/x ring chains as we are no longer lubricating the inner rollers we are only lubricating the plates that hold the rollers together

My experience differs. The chain is very clean, without the need to clean it. And it is always lubed. Combination of dirt that gets stuck to a lubricant makes for a nice grinding paste - one of the reasons the chain lasts a lot shorter, than a lot thinner cam shaft chain, that is always closed inside the engine, always clean and lubed. Scottoiler keeps the chain lubed, while the ("thin") oil flings off it along with any dirt - so the chain stays both clean and lubed.

Using other methods, it's very hard to clean the chain between the pins and the rollers, where it matters.

105

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end

« on: 23 March 2018, 05:32:16 am »

Quote from: Disorderlypunk on 23 March 2018, 12:35:00 am

i have a scotoiler that came with the bike but i took it off instantly - they are easily forgot to be topped up
but what is an extra 10 mins to properly clean and lube your chain when you wash it (scotoilers dont clean)
my bikes are misused, mistreated and generally given a hard time but when it comes to maintenance they are looked after
forget buying a scotoiler and just buy a paddock stand as it far more usefull for everything

when you say you are using a continuous chain do you mean one that is riveted - i should hope so as split link chains shouldnt be used on bikes this size (the previous owner fitted one and it didnt end well for me but could have been worse if it flung the link 10 mins earlier)

With a Scottoiler my chain has been clean - and lubed. Practically never needed to clean it since the installation of the system. It does fling off, along with all the stuck dirt, and is continuously reapplied, of course.

106

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end

« on: 18 March 2018, 12:27:16 pm »

Quote from: Disorderlypunk on 18 March 2018, 10:59:12 am

WTF IS HAPPENING
all i asked was about some oil weight in forks then it turned into changing springs which is fair and on subject
then it turned into the whole philosophical argument of the meaning of opinion
and then its turns into gearing systems for the lycra brigade

- FUCK IT im putting 15w in tommorow and will let you know if its a bit too harsh
might even put the 14t sprocket on and go be a hooligan down my country roads

From my "experiments":

15w oil, all else being left equal will result in the forks resisting to go down a bit more, but also coming back up a bit slower. Hard braking followed by lots of smaller bumps will be a bad experience with that setup, forks will not go back from bottoming out quickly enough.

Adding more spring preload, without replacing the springs, will fix that to a point, but then you get a lot less sag when the bike is going at constant speed, which results, gain, in that lots of smaller bumps will cause more problems (forks will practically be bottomed "downwards" - no room to move away from the bike).

For the track, it's generally better than stock, for the street - only if you are on the heavier side.

107

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end

« on: 18 March 2018, 08:25:02 am »

Another example, analogue to Darrsi's. Bicycles again.

SRAM and Shimano components don't mix according to both the manufacturers manuals, data and recommendations. However, for one example, I've set up SRAM front derailleurs with Shimano front shifters to work perfectly fine - at least for both mine and the user's criteria. It just shifts as good as it shifts. When someone asks if it can work, I always say that it works "based on my knowledge and experience" (long way of saying IMO

). Just to be certain I've given a "full disclosure", since manufacturers say otherwise.

On the other hand, if someone asks if Deore brakes are better than the Acera ones (higher and lower class Shimano equipment), it is also my opinion that Deores are better. But since both the manufacturer, testers, practically any other mechanic etc. also claim the same, I don't bother stressing out that it's my opinion, or based on "my knowledge and experience".

In both those cases, all I can say when asked a question is my opinion. It is (IMO) understood that it's an honest one - liars and demagogues can be spotted by often using the words honest, honestly etc (again IMO - not a psychologist, sociologist or similiar).

108

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end

« on: 18 March 2018, 08:00:26 am »

Quote from: tommyardin on 18 March 2018, 07:44:33 am

Thank you Slanlinar for your words of wisdom, your not darrsi's brother of dad are you????? just asking. (Let me see if I can get that little red light flashing)

Why, do I look like Darrsi?

Quote from: tommyardin on 18 March 2018, 07:44:33 am

Is an opinion the same as a choice then, I can choose not to like something and then give an opinion on it but is not absolute or the truth in anyway, it is just an Opinion that belongs to me, and I may strongly hold to it, but that does not make it fact or the truth.

You can define opinion whichever way you like. However, when talking/discussing with other people, it helps if you use the terms everybody understands, so you are certain to be talking about the same thing. A common example from my bicycle wrenching practice is when someone says the bike won't go to the 2nd gear. I need to confirm what the 2nd gear is. Which combination of the (2 or 3) front chainrings and (5 to 12) rear chainrings they consider to be the 2nd gear, before trying to determine the problem.

Same goes for opinion. Look it up in a dictionary, and you can be fairly certain that is what the other discussion participants use when saying "my opinion" (honest, or not).
So while opinion has it's limits (depending on one's knowledge and experience, objectiveness, etc.), using the word "honest" can be perfectly correct. As a way to say you really believe what you're saying (for what that's worth, again, depending on one's knowledge etc...). It could also be used as a demagogy instrument, trying to convince people to take your point of view (I know a lot more such "tricks" in Serbian, so can't think of another good English example - but almost any politician's speech will do) though I don't think it's the case with Darrsi's posts here.

Quote from: tommyardin on 18 March 2018, 07:44:33 am

Anyway thank you Slaninar for adding your Opinion, I feel you may have the same effect as a stick wiggling about in a hornets nest, but you may not agree, but that is your Op...............

Here we go again.

I agree. I think the same for your posts following your first one (which is very good IMO) in this topic.

Quote from: tommyardin on 18 March 2018, 07:44:33 am

PS: I agree about the world being flat if it was round like some are saying the water would all run off, I don't know! Some people have not thought that one through.

Yes. I was amazed in how many details.

109

FZS600 Fazer / Re: 15w oil in front end

« on: 18 March 2018, 07:16:20 am »

Quote from: tommyardin on 17 March 2018, 09:49:25 am

FFS darrsi leave it mate, this could go on and on you bitch me I bitch you back and have a pop at everything each other says, and it never ends.
But I will just add, as stated earlier if it is an Opinion it is neither honest or dishonest, it can be a genuine Opinion, a firmly held Opinion, or humble Opinion, but that does not make it honest or right, but something that someone has thought through and chosen to believe, and a lot of us believe a lot of stuff that just is not true.

Under that tough exterior of yours I believe that there is a genuine kind hearted, thoughtful man.
But then I rethink the last statement above about us believing stuff that isn't true, and come to a firmly held Opinion that you are just a twat.

Not a native English speaker, but the dictionary says that an opinion can be honest:
https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/honest

Honest as saying what you really do think (believe). My honest opinion is that the Earth is not flat, but I've never traveled a full circle so I could be wrong. Possibly, but not probably.

As for the topic, I agree with your first post about using the correct rate (best not progressive) springs, appropriate valves and oil viscosity.

I've put some steel inserts between the preload adjusters and FZS's standard springs, and added some more viscous oil, getting a bit better handling on the road and the track. At least for my taste. It's far from an optimal, but a rather cheap fix (or "fix", depending on one's criteria).

I also agree that using an oil that is (way) too viscous can cause problems.

P.S. If you're that much into Darrsi, why not ask her for a drink, that's what grown ups do.

110

General / Re: Oil Filter Wrench

« on: 13 March 2018, 05:24:13 am »

Got this cheap one - works fine.

So did a screwdriver - just punch through a filter and use it as a lever.

The one Darrsi linked looks very nice and practical for most filters - including Fazer's.

111

General / Re: Gender fluid...!

« on: 24 January 2018, 10:15:40 pm »

Quote from: darrsi on 24 January 2018, 09:36:38 pm

Either you are drunk, or on drugs.....or both.
Workplace drug policies promote the use of coke???
What planet are you on? And who do you work for?
Whether you want to believe it or not, if cannabis or whatever drug for that matter gets legalized, street dealers will offer "better for cheaper". Simple competition, you'd be playing right into their hands, they won't just stop selling on the side because there are now legal places selling it.
Again, don't mistake my point of view as being anti, because i'd be very interested to see it trialled over here, which is possible seeing as other countries are giving it a go.

I disagree. Having loads of 1st hand experience in all sorts of restrictions and black markets, due to the economic and political situation of where I've lived.
Make anything restricted and/or illegal, and the black market flourishes.

Make it legal, and easily bought/sold, the gangsters look for other ways of making quick money. Beating the "lower prices" is not their game - that's maybe a supermarket, or a good salesman, but not the black market way of thinking. In fact, they go out of their way to make sure that their product is not widely available and expensive (preferably having a monopoly on it).

I'd legalize it all, for 18+ aged people.

Interesting view on drugs:

112

General / Re: Gender fluid...!

« on: 21 January 2018, 01:49:35 pm »

Quote from: YamFazFan on 16 January 2018, 11:01:47 pm

I was expecting this thread to be about an upgrade of DOT 5.1

Though, having read the explanation, the book "The Left Hand of Darkness" by Ursula Le Guin comes to mind.

113

General / Re: Emergency Vehicle/Red Light Question

« on: 31 December 2017, 05:08:31 pm »

Law, justice and even common sense are not always "aligned".

As for any moral dilemmas, IMO, when choosing for oneself which laws are just and common sense, one can often be subjective and unjust. When doing so for no personal gain (like when moving to let an emergency vehicle pass), the chance of being subjective and unjust is very low.

Still, I wouldn't be amazed to get fined for doing the right thing - whenever braking the law, one should be ready to accept the risks and consequences. Worse than a fine would be a scenario where moving at a red light causes a (fatal?) accident (Murphy's law?).

114

General / Re: Merry Christmas one and all

« on: 25 December 2017, 10:05:16 am »

Quote from: fazersharp on 25 December 2017, 12:05:33 am

I was just about to type and answer but I was distracted ---------- I think there's some fucker on my roof

A fat bastard stupid enough to try going down the chimney?

Merry Christmas and holidays.

115

FZS600 Fazer / Re: Chain lube

« on: 06 December 2017, 07:48:27 pm »

For those with OCD,

I wrote two articles. One on (proper) chain lubrication (touching the wear phenomena) and one on various types of lubricants. It's meant for bicycle chains primarily, but the basic principles are the same. Links:

http://www.bike.bikegremlin.com/2015/06/23/best-bicycle-chain-lube/

http://www.bike.bikegremlin.com/2017/03/30/bicycle-chain-lubricants-explained/

116

General / Re: Tyre question

« on: 29 October 2017, 05:12:14 pm »

Metzeler Sportec M5 Interact have served me very well in both hot and cold. Though, never riding below freezing temps.

117

Introduction / Re: 400 new owner

« on: 29 October 2017, 05:10:46 pm »

I think you're at the right place. Lots of good info. This is the 400 section:

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/board,27.0.html

118

General / Re: Bargains?

« on: 10 October 2017, 06:57:06 am »

IMO, a patent that needs a thread lock to stay in place is not well engineered.

119

General / Re: Bargains?

« on: 24 September 2017, 03:10:03 pm »

Quote from: darrsi on 23 September 2017, 09:27:44 am

The marketing spiel is designed to get you hooked, but it's still oil at the end of the day, that has to be of certain specs and regulations, otherwise engines would be going pop left, right and centre.

I wanted to try fully synthetic for a change so tried this stuff out for quite a while now and i've been more than happy with it, with no issues whatsoever.
As long as the oil is changed within the recommended intervals then you shouldn't have any problems. The 600's are given a 6000 mile recommendation, but me, along with quite a few others tend to change it around the 4000 mile mark, so paying over the odds for it isn't too appealing just because it has a fancy name on the container.
The semi synthetic is even cheaper, but if you haven't bought any already give this gear a go, i promise you won't be disappointed.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?epid=0&hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y

Why are you changing it sooner than recommended? Do you doubt the oil quality, or some other reason?

API SL and JASO MA2 seem very promissing.

What's the (not petrol station rip off) price of Motul 7100 10w40 in the UK?

120

FZS600 Fazer / Re: U-lock or Disc lock?

« on: 24 September 2017, 07:36:59 am »

Quote from: celticdog on 23 September 2017, 09:08:43 pm

Quote from: Slaninar on 22 September 2017, 07:58:57 pm
For hardening - the chains without any case hardening are also easy to cut with bolt cutters.
The trick is optimal hardness. Something Abus gets quite right with their Granig X-plus series of chains, U-locks etc. Not sure about other brands, since very few of quality are imported / available in my country.

Nothing is really theft proof, given enough time. Materials that can't be cut relatively easily with a grinder and the proper disk/blade aren't going to be cheap, They're also very brittle and hard to work with, and/or extremely heavy. However good chain link design helps by making it difficult to get a good angle and purchase on the chain when cutting through it.

High carbon, high molybdenum steel is harder to cut with an angle grinder. The addition of carbide further wears the blade, slowing progress. The problem with high strength is increased brittleness. You'd have to use a fairly thick cross section and design it in such a way that it would be difficult to strike with force or difficult to pry apart with a jack. Steel like this isn't cheap and is hard to work with than other steels. It's a trade off between being saw and grinder resistant but more vulnerable to cutting torch or impact force.

Making a chain that can't be cut with a diamond wheel on an angle grinder is a tall order. The paradox being in order to make a chain the metal must be workable, so the same means used to produce it can be used to defeat it, i.e. mechanical force and or heat. Buy the best you can afford.

That is all correct. Good chains for locking (motor)bikes are usually hardened somewhere in between - not brittle enough to be easily broken with a hammer and a chisel, but not too soft to be easily cut with bolt cutters. Such chains do have a hardened core (as well as the outer part), just not hardened too much so it becomes brittle. Some cheaper chains have just the outer part hardened, so you can't tell how har to cut they are, until you actually try to cut them. Checking the outer aree of a link it feels and looks just as a thoroughly hardened chain.

Leaving a chain not lying on the ground (and making sure it's a tight fit), leaves the thieves without the luxury of using the ground as a leverage, or as an anvil for the hammer/break approach. For U-locks, that means not leaving room for a car jack to be inserted inside the U part of the lock (so too big is bad).

So, with a good quality chain with links of at least 10 mm (better at least 12 mm) cross section, hexagonally shaped (for a wider area in contact with bolt cutters), it takes very long and good quality bolt cutters (over 50 cm handle), placed against the ground with the body used as a leverage to cut the chain. And it usually needs to be done twice on one link. Or about 20 cm of cutting with a good hand saw with a decent quality blade. Or lots of noise and (relatively long) time with a battery powered angle grinder. This is often enough for the thieves to seek easier pray. Combine that with an alarm as a psychological detterent and bother during the work and, for the about 20 years old Fazer, you're pretty safe. Nothing beats a good garage, though (out of sight).

Making them work for it is the best one can do. If they were into working, they wouldn't be stealing, after all. Also, two good chains is better than one. Or a chain and a cable lock. Amount of work needed is crucial. As well as the amount of noise (and light if using an angle grinder in the dark) - thieves don't want to be heard/seen and caught.

The "extremely heavy" part:
Yes, steel weighs as much as it does. Many manufacturers of bicycle safety chains encase their chains in rubber, plastic, or nylon. So it's often not too easy to see just how thick a link is. When people ask me to see if their chain is any good, the first thing I do is just take it in my hands, holding it in the air. If they're not heavy, there's not a lot of metal used, so the cross section can't be very thick. One of the most often heard complaints when I hand people what I'd recommend to be a good chain/lock is not the price, but "oooh, it's too heavy!"

121

FZS600 Fazer / Re: U-lock or Disc lock?

« on: 22 September 2017, 07:58:57 pm »

For hardening - the chains without any case hardening are also easy to cut with bolt cutters.
The trick is optimal hardness. Something Abus gets quite right with their Granig X-plus series of chains, U-locks etc. Not sure about other brands, since very few of quality are imported / available in my country.

122

FZS600 Fazer / Re: U-lock or Disc lock?

« on: 21 September 2017, 04:31:49 pm »

Quote from: tommyardin on 19 September 2017, 07:04:12 pm

Back it up with a chain and a BIG bright coloured good quality padlock on the rear wheel if its being left for any length of time, it doesn't really have to be a super heavy duty chain because it someone is going to cut it with a 18volt battery powered disk cutter they will whether it is a 8mm link or a 15mm link, but it is a visual deterrent to the little foc pigs who want to go joy riding. Make sure the chain is of a length that it cannot be laid on the ground as it is difficult to cut a hanging chain with a hammer and chisel. Always use the steering lock.
There is no way you will stop someone nicking your pride and joy if they are determined but you can make life difficult and that will stop the opportunist thief.

In my knowledge and experience, there is a difference between an 8 and a 15 mm thick link. There is also difference between well hardened steel and cheaper, softer one.

The main breaking point, so to say, is about 12 mm of well hardened steel. From that thickness, it is very hard to cut it with tools that fit under one's jacket to stay invisible. Also, that is the thickness that requires more than a few seconds with a battery run angle grinder - so there will be more noise and light from all the grinding sparks (English term? :/ ).

No useable system is 100% hack proof, but the goal is to make it more work and more risk for the thieves than the other bikes.

Of course, a garage is much better - out of sight, at least in my country.

Another good thing is being nice to the elderly. Those people NEVER sleep

and will always let you konw if they saw someone suspicios, or call you (or the police) if they hear some break&enter noise.

123

General / Re: Time for a Change - MT-09

« on: 21 September 2017, 03:00:09 pm »

Quote from: F4celess on 19 September 2017, 03:15:18 pm

tony_d123 ... BEAUTIFUL machine, congratulations.

Think it's a case of being content only with what you are familiar with / what you know.
Then, you went out and tried something NEW (not forgetting the MT-09 is almost 15 years NEWER than a FZS600), and you've seen the light. lol.

I've watched a lot of youtube videos of owners on their MT-09 / MT-07's, Reviews etc, lovely looking machines, plus the power to go with it.
I'd seriously consider going the same direction if I parted with my FZS 600.

IMO, the "spiritual" successor of the FZS600 is the Kawasaky Versys 650 - especially the new one with the not-too-ugly headlights.

124

General / Re: Time for a Change - MT-09

« on: 18 September 2017, 06:22:50 am »

Quote from: celticbiker on 17 September 2017, 12:31:09 pm

I had been riding tdm900's for 15 yrs and when thinking of a replacement I test rode the MT. The engine is a dream but like all yams the suspension is seriously lacking, first job would have been to replace the rear shock cos it's way too soft and under damped and resprung and re valves the front.

Riding on poor and bumpy roads around my city - suspension that is too soft and feels wobbly on the track and good roads, often feels just right - unless the front end dives too much, too quickly.

125

FZS600 Fazer / Re: U-lock or Disc lock?

« on: 01 September 2017, 05:50:29 am »

Quote from: F4celess on 30 August 2017, 11:19:20 am

Quote from: rlkat on 21 August 2017, 08:48:38 pm
Thanks for the replies, guys. I think I'm going down the disc lock route. I'll get one of those luminous springy things that you tie to the grip to remind you to undo the lock.

Like it was said, most of them just toss the bike into a van, unless it is chained to some heavy/fixed object.

EXACTLY! The solution is to use the luminous leash, that you then reach up to a lever, or somewhere along the side of the bike.
It also adds as an immediate visual deterrent, so the thieves eyeing up the bike, will see that leash from a distance.

Fitting onto the rear wheel is better if possible, as the rear wheel is much more difficult to get off (if they go to extreme measures to bypass the lock)!

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