Quote from: bwizz on 14 December 2013, 07:29:45 pm

I've a tank sender unit if you need one £12+pp

Thanks mate, i'll bear that in mind.
It's been behaving for the last few days so i'll keep an eye on it.




I'll even bare that in mind, foc the grizzly

[Pedant]You were right the first time [/pedant]

Just tested for a good spark on all cylinders.  Pulled each HT lead off in turn, stuck a spare plug in it and held against the head.  Got a white/blue spark but not a 'fat blue' spark as they describe in Haynes.  Oddly though, it started up exactly the same with only three plugs connected (any three) as it does with four.  Took the reg/rec off and checked with a meter, all appeared to be ok; lowest 660, highest 685 with the others spread out between.  Also tried it with the reg/rec disconnected and it still misses occasionally at 4k in neutral so it's not that.

What next?  Anyone got a spare CDI I can borrow to test?

Just a thought, could a dying battery cause misfiring like this? I'd have thought it's be running off the generator over a couple of k rpm, but it wouldn't start this morning (turned over, but slowly) and needed 5 mins on a charger to get going.

Some good ones there 


I was walking to work when an old guy summoned me over to a garden.

“Pssstt,” he said. “Hey, boy, you see that rabbit hutch over there? If you go over and pull open the door, there’s a million pounds in there for you.”

 “Just pull open the door?” I said in disbelief.

 He replied, “Yes.”

I said, “There must be some sort of catch…”

TPS has been replaced (with the carbs) but I can always swap back to make sure.

From what I understand about carb icing it's mainly when the engine is cold and in cold weather.  When I'm leaving in the mornings now it's ~8C outside, my garage is around 15C and it does it constantly through my 1 1/4 hr commute.  Also I'm pretty sure the carb heating pipes are ok as one of the rubber joiners split recently on the way to work (thankfully about 3 minutes before I got there) and was leaking coolant.

Just checked the battery voltages, engine off it was 12.18, warm idling it was 14.03 and at 2500rpm (I don't want to piss my landlord of too much...) it increased a fraction to 14.06.  Are these ok?

As for electrical connectors, I'll see if I can take a look at lunchtime tomorrow.

Dirty ignition switch. Squirt loads of contact cleaner down the key hole, stick key in and turn on/off a few times. Had the same with mine before after it sat out in the rain all day. Span over fine but wouldn't try to fire.

Bang from exhaust is because even though it's not getting spark, the air flowing through is still pulling in fuel and it ignites in the exhaust when it finally fires up.

What a bunch of fucktards 

If it's having trouble getting started you can stick a foot pump on the breather, give it a few pumps and the oil will start flowing.  I fill mine up from 1/4 full roughly every 4-5 days (100miles/day).

Use electrical contact cleaner.  Squirt a load down the key hole, stick the key in and turn it on/off a few times.

I had problems starting (turned over fine but no spark) which turned out to be a dirty ignition barrel, this fixed it.

Found a water leak.  Was sitting at traffic lights on the way to work with a puddle developing under me, and it wasn't because I'd had too many coffees in the morning.  Managed to temp fix it to get home in the evening though and need to replace the pipe this weekend.

Mine did the exact same thing last year, after it'd been sitting out in the rain all day.  Next time it fails to start, flick the ignition key off/on a few times and try again.  If it fires up, squirt a bit of contact cleaner down the hole and do the key on/off a few times to clean the shite out and it'll be good as new.

Quote from: Lawrence on 17 September 2013, 10:06:42 am

Quote from: red98 on 15 September 2013, 07:15:03 pm

Quote from: Lawrence on 15 September 2013, 08:28:29 am

Quote from: ChristoT on 12 September 2013, 07:12:41 pm

Quote from: Lawrence on 12 September 2013, 06:21:27 pm

How much are you after for the carburettors?

Probably not much more than £60 - but I'd like to keep them nearish the bike until the engine sells to prove the engine is in good working order. Be advised they have a 33bhp restrictor in, and may need a bit of fettling to get them back up to par (balancing at the very least).

Red98 is probably a better man to talk to on that front!

Any idea if it's possible to remove the restrictors without buggering up the seals?

I'll take them but not in any rush, so whenever the engine has gone.

hi lawrence....waiting for the key to arrive and then i can get the old girl running and check the engine and carbs out...want to sell the engine first so buyer can see it running,one think you cant do with a breakers yard,will let you know soon....cheers paul aka red98

Just thought, is the restrictor just plates, or is it jets too?

 
 
WAKE UP CHRISTO..........do you still have all the standard parts to return the carbs too full power ?

Was this answered?
 
I'll take them if they can easily be returned to full power, this week if possible?

Quote from: Lawrence on 09 October 2013, 12:48:36 am

Quote from: slimwilly on 08 October 2013, 06:54:12 pm

Yes, more obvious if you were there, he was revving and took off very fast trying to get past as many of us as possible with our lane running out,cutting our move over to the center lane,, a trouble maker for sure,,absolutely no need.It could only cause problems for us on the left lane.

Because I've never seen a bike do that, or cut anyone up either 
 
I don't see what the issue is.  Yes, he cut into your lane but it's hardly worth going to the effort of posting a video over.

Sorry Grandad!!


Calm down

I'm not the one posting videos on here about it