Yesterday, whilst rolling my bike back, I managed to misjudge my position and put a scuff on someone's bumper

Fortunately (-ish) it was someone I knew and since it was only a slight scratch, I offered to buy them a repair kit to deal with it.

There are lots of options out there, although some are for reparing breaks, which I don't need, so can anyone recommend something cheap and easy?

I need to adjust the clutch cable on my FZ6, but the adjuster by the clutch lever is already all the way out.

The Haynes manual says to remove the tank, battery and airbox to get access to the other adjuster which is down between the frame and the engine, but I don't want to have to do all that if I don't have to.

If I lift the tank I can see the adjuster, but there's not enough gap to get tools into the space.

So does anyone have any suggestions to sort this out without all the palaver of removing the battery and airbox?

Pretty much ever since my FZ6 has needed an MOT, I've had Advisories on the Headset Bearings (either loose or notchy).

The next MOT is coming up soon and I'm thinking it might be good to get them seen to (and replaced if needed) but I've heard that it can take around 4 hours and cost a couple of hundred quid or so for labour and given that I'm porbably going to need a new rear tyre as well, that's going to be very expensive

So can anyone confirm if that is how much it's likely to cost and if there's anything else I can do to get them sorted (or, at least, stop it failing the MOT)?

A lorry overturned on the M27 earlier today, spilling its load of Vicks Vaporub over all three lanes.

The Police have managed to get the traffic moving again, and don’t expect any congestion for the next eight hours.

April 2016 - Surface Dressing on the Morestead Road:
Surface dressing of roads between Morestead and Corhampton from 14 April
A road surface dressing treatment will be undertaken between Morestead and Corhampton, along a route including Morestead Road, Belmore Lane, Stakes Lane and Corhampton Lane, beginning on 14 April.
Weather permitting, the works are expected to take five working days to complete, with a further two-day phase one week later.
There will be road closures on individual sections of the route between 9.30am and 4pm each day. A diversion around the whole route will be in place throughout the works.
The roads will be closed to through traffic.
Morestead Road will be treated first, from the end of the new surfacing near the junction of the old drovers’ track, Old Down Lane, to the Longwood Road junction. Access will be maintained to Hazeley Road and Jackman’s Hill, at all times.
This will be followed by Belmore Lane, from the Longwood Road junction to the junction with Salt Lane and Stakes Lane, then Stakes Lane will be treated, followed by Corhampton Lane to the junction with the B3035.
As part of the treatment process, there will be loose chippings on the road surface for a short time, and drivers are advised to drive as slowly as possible to prevent damage to cars at this time. Signs will be put up to warn road users of the risk, and the loose material will be removed by a mechanical sweeper as soon as possible after the treatment.
A week later, a further two-day closure will be implemented, for a final treatment that will help to make the dressing on the roads more resilient to the impact of heavy traffic and wet winter weather.

* * * * *

Be careful out there...

I need to replace the rear pads on my FZ6 (04-06 model) and, according to Haynes, I need to put a piece of tube over the bleed nipple when I push the pistons back into the caliper.

What I don't know is what size tube I need (or how much).

It suggests putting the end into a "suitable container", but if I have a long enough length of tube (securing it to the grab rail for instance), surely I wonldn't need to as it would just flow up into the tube and I could avoid getting any bubbles into the system.

Anyone know if this would work or got any helpful advice?

Well, actually a couple of them!

I have the Power Commander III with the multi-map option and the screws that hold the switch onto the handlebar bracket have hallen out (probably vibrated loose).

According to the people at PC, they are #2-56 x 3/8 Phillips Pan Head Machine Screws

Does anyone have a couple of these (and maybe a couple more as spares) that they could let me have so I don't have to buy a packet of 100 of them?

I've finally got around to replacing the chain and sprockets on my FZ6, but I've hit a little snag...

The Haynes manual says the bolts on the rear sprocket should be tightened to 100nm, but my torque wrench only goes up to 50nm...

So how do I get to 100nm?

I've just bought a new set of plugs for my FZ6-SA (2006), but noticed that I've been sent CR9E plugs which have a single "horn" going over the electrode, rather than a pair (one each side) as the standard ones on the bike have which are, apparently, CR9EK plugs.

Is there a difference between the two more than just the design or are these ok to use?

... All The Time

Whilst looking at somethng else on my bike I noticed that the exhaust stud bolts were somewhat(!) rusty.

Although I have no need to remove the downpipes at the moment, having seen various posts about people snapping off studs etc when trying to take them off, it occurred to me that it might be a good bit of preventative maintenance to do so before they end up corroded solid.

If I do, would applying coper slip grease to the threads before re-attaching them be a good idea?

If you get an e-mail saying "Forward this to your friends and WIN Free Meat Products for a year!" delete it.

It's Spam.











 

Someone was asking a question about a Fazer on a Facebook forum, so I put a link in to the Foc-U forums and the image that came up alongside it appears to be pie, chips and beans!

Now I've got nothing against a nice bit of nosh like that, but perhaps having something more Fazer related might be good?