Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: spyder on 12 September 2013, 09:25:23 pm
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Hi, I'm new to Fazers so not sure what to expect of them. Bowled over at first, now I find that whenever I roll on the throttle, there is a noticeable clunk, particularly changing up from 1st to 2nd, but also in higher gears, it's just not as noticeable then. Chain is correctly adjusted, rear sprocket fine, don't know about front, apparently the nut mod has been done (owner showed me old one). Do they all do this? Coming from an old school GSX 750 ES the power delivery seems very fierce, exacerbating the clunkiness. Do they all do this. If so, I'll get used to it!
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Just been looking at a thread in the thous section, wear on the clutch basket may be the cause of this apparently. Another place I might be inclined to look is the cush drive rubbers. Would expect these kinds of things on high-ish mileage bikes, don't know the mileage on yours?
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no knocking or backlash in the gearing of my 600, so I wouldnt say it was normal, no.
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Just been looking at a thread in the thous section, wear on the clutch basket may be the cause of this apparently. Another place I might be inclined to look is the cush drive rubbers. Would expect these kinds of things on high-ish mileage bikes, don't know the mileage on yours?
I changed my cush drive rubbers at about 39000 miles, and the old one's didn't look any different to the new one's to be honest, they're a really hard rubber.
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Fazer gearboxes are clunky, whether that's the issue you have is difficult to tell at a distance.
If you haven't done it (or if there's no evidence of it being done), an oil and filter change is probably a good idea; that in itself can make a difference.
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If you change from 1st to 2nd at high revs say 4000 rpm and above and get a 'clunk'
But;
If you change from 1st to 2nd at low revs say 4000 rpm and below and you don't get much of a 'clunk'
It's like my fazer, which gives me more of a 'clunk' the higher the revs.
And as far as I know that's normal.
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I agree, 1st to 2nd is known to be clunky but if you change early it's not too bad
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Thanks for replies, it's not the clunk engaging first or changing gears so much as the snatch when opening throttle, like chains too slack or cush drive's had it. It's more obvious in lower gears, gets better the higher you go but I imagine it's still there in 5th, you just can't feel it as much. Bike's done 18,000 which isn't a lot really.
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How much can you pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at 3oclock if looking at it face on?
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How much can you pull the chain away from the rear sprocket at 3oclock if looking at it face on?
I felt my bike doing this for a while when i recently had a new chain and sprockets fitted.
It's not so much a gear thing, like the clunking when changing, you feel it most if you shut off the throttle without touching the clutch then opening the throttle again which causes a snatching feeling, i s'pose similar to a rope in a tug of war.
My cush drive rubbers have been changed, my chain is adjusted correctly, so it's weird that it started after a new chain & sprockets being fitted, but it can easily be controlled by smoother usage of the clutch.
To be honest i've not even noticed it recently, so either it's settled down or i've unknowingly adjusted my riding to stop it happening?
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I found mine is smoother if I'm more aggressive going through the gears, slow gear changes are clunky and fast gear changes are not :)
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I promise not to mention Activ8......so i won't. :lol
My gear changes are smooth and fine other than the standard neutral to first clunk.
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Is the clunk still there if you do a clutchless change?
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Is the clunk still there if you do a clutchless change?
Like i said earlier i don't think he's on about a gear thing, it's more of a chain tension thing.
I think clunk in this case is probably the wrong word.
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If it feels like excesive chain whip it could be a loose front sprocket I would get the front cover off to make sure it's nice a tight.
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Is the clunk still there if you do a clutchless change?
Like i said earlier i don't think he's on about a gear thing, it's more of a chain tension thing.
I think clunk in this case is probably the wrong word.
Thanks for the clarification. I'm no engineering whiz so I'm grateful to you. My theory was you could exclude the clutch if it clunked without using the clutch.
My bad.
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I think tony22 has nailed the description correctly, but it felt like that straight after a new chain & sprockets so it's a bit unexplainable?
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I think tony22 has nailed the description correctly, but it felt like that straight after a new chain & sprockets so it's a bit unexplainable?
Lack of lube in the chain? I think the chain may be stiff until the links have loosened o er a few miles and the lube worked in?
Still guesswork but I'd have thought a chain that had never been used could well be a bit whippy/snappy until it's bedded in. But Wtf do I know.
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Most chains are lubed in the factory so are already covered when you put them on - not sure if there is any real bedding in process with a chain...
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I've found that with new chains, you can get an initial bit of stretch; with a few miles on it and a first adjustment it should then settle down.
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You seem much more clued up than me but it's in my nature to try and help so please forgive me if my suggestion is silly but.. Is the rear wheel in alignment?
This site listed it http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_and_maintenance/how_to07.shtml (http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_and_maintenance/how_to07.shtml) and I was trying to understand what the effect of a misaligned rear sprocket may be and my conclusion (correct me if I'm wrong) was worst case the chain would come off, but if it was out just by a bit then the chain may alternate between slightly tight and slightly loose which could make it a bit whippy?
Ideas?
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You seem much more clued up than me but it's in my nature to try and help so please forgive me if my suggestion is silly but.. Is the rear wheel in alignment?
This site listed it [url]http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_and_maintenance/how_to07.shtml[/url] ([url]http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_and_maintenance/how_to07.shtml[/url]) and I was trying to understand what the effect of a misaligned rear sprocket may be and my conclusion (correct me if I'm wrong) was worst case the chain would come off, but if it was out just by a bit then the chain may alternate between slightly tight and slightly loose which could make it a bit whippy?
Ideas?
If the rear wheel is untrue then the chain "tries" to move over on the sprocket but then corrects itself, so it would just cause a lumpy, knocking feeling which you'd feel in your foot.
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I'll get my coat before I derail the topic any more. Adiós :D
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It would be interesting to know how much backlash there is due to the clutch and geartrain, both in the OP's case and those who don't have a problem.
I've a certain amount on mine. It's not particularly noticeable for normal riding, but when conditions are slippery and I'm going slower and trying to ride as smoothly as possible it does make things difficult.
The easiest way to measure the backlash is with the sprocket cover off, bike on the centrestand and in 1st and rock the rear wheel back and forth. By seeing how much the sprocket itself moves any slop due to chain tension/condition and the cush drive can be ignored. My sprocket has almost exactly one tooth's worth of movement, i.e 24º.
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That sounds like a lot. 1 tooth on the front sprocket??
1 tooth on the rear sprocket is 7.5º
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That sounds like a lot. 1 tooth on the front sprocket??
1 tooth on the rear sprocket is 7.5º
Yes, the front sprocket.
It seemed like a lot to me too, but I've nothing to compare it to at the moment so maybe it's normal.
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hello, im new to fazer 600, how much slack is too much ? where will the slack be, in the gearbox or clutch basket? and is there a way to adjust it ?
cheers
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hello, im new to fazer 600, how much slack is too much ? where will the slack be, in the gearbox or clutch basket? and is there a way to adjust it ?
cheers
The 'slack' that the above posters are referring to is the chain 'slack'. This is measured by having a handy little ruler available and pushing upwards on the lower chain run to see how many mm of play/movement there is. The chain is adjusted by loosening the rear wheel axle nut and adjusting the nuts on the trailing end of the swingarm. If you are going to attempt this, make sure you look at both sides of the swingarm when making the adjustment. There are alignment marks on both sides where the axle slides through which are an aid to making sure your wheel is in alignment. When you are happy with the slack in your chain be sure to tighten the axle nut and check the tightness of the chain again. Tightening the axle nut can alter the chain slack to some degree and put your settings out again. This sounds pretty complicated to do but is made much easier if you have a manual to hand with diagrams which I would suggest if attempting for the 1st time ;)
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Cheerz les, but I mean the backlash in the clutch / gear train,
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Hello, thanks for all info, if 1 tooth play at front sprocket is normal then all seems ok,
cheers,
keep one wheel down :-)
Plus! wot a great site this is for info :-)