old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Dead Eye on 02 September 2013, 05:46:12 pm
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So I've finally got to a point in my rebuild, after the crash 4 weeks ago, that I was ready to test the bike on the road...
Bike was reluctant to start at first, but it came to life and everything seemed like normal. Still on the centre stand I figured I'd check everything out first to make sure I didn't get any nasty surprises. Kicked it in to gear with the clutch pulled in and the engine cuts out... crap.
So I put my investigating hat on and immediately set about checking the Sidestand switch. Got my multimeter out and checked resistance across the switch - all good! Checked the Fuses (Haynes suggested to :\) and they all seem fine. At this point my multi-meter decided it would run out of battery power and I don't have any spares so that's me done for now and figured I'd get some ideas from you good folk
So here it is laid out;
- Engine cuts out when put in to gear
- Sidestand switch tested ok with multi-meter
- Fuses ok
- Engine off, in 1st, clutch pulled in - won't start
I'm thinking my next step is to test the clutch switch?
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Is the side stand switch actually engaging / disengaging properly?
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Yes... I did say that I had tested it with a multi-meter...
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Yes... I did say that I had tested it with a multi-meter...
That means the electric part is working, not necessarily the mechanical part. Just thought I'd chuck it out there.
Clutch switch is a possible culprit.
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That makes no sense - if the switch is working electronically then obviously the mechanical part is working. Aka, it shows the correct change in resistance as the switch is operated
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it shows the correct change in resistance as the switch is operated
OK, sorry, the OP hadn't made that clear.
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So mentioning twice that I had tested the switch and it was ok wasn't making it clear... have you been to doctors after your crash?
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So mentioning twice that I had tested the switch and it was ok wasn't making it clear... have you been to doctors after your crash?
Sod off. That is all.
When you said you'd tested the switch, I wasn't sure of WHAT exactly you had tested. Hence why I double checked.
You can thank me later for the bump, BTW. :)
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So mentioning twice that I had tested the switch and it was ok wasn't making it clear... have you been to doctors after your crash?
I think Christo is asking if the sidestand actually operates the switch effectively, no matter how good the switch itself is. That part of it you haven't made clear.
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Ok.
I got down on my hands and knees to look a the side stand switch and mechanism. It was covered in crap so I gave it a good clean (this is AFTER the problem presented itself). I could see the mechanism operating correctly as a lowered and raised the side stand in order for the switch rod to retract and be pushed back in.
I then attached the multimeter to the end of the cable that feeds the side stand switch where it is connected behind the left hand panel. With the sidestand up there was no resistance, and with my foot I push the side stand down and the resistance became infinite.
This to me clarifies that the switch and mechanism is operating correctly
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Ok cool.
Is the clutch adjusted properly? Could it be not disengaging the drive and causing the engine to stall?
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The clutch should be fine but its near impossible to adjust if the engine cuts out when its in gear. Exup rode the bike home and reported no clutch issues and it hasn't been touched since
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Chain tension, if its too tight would it cause a stall?
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But if the clutch is in then the engine shouldn't engage and the wheel wouldn't move - but the chain doesn't appear too tight. Looks as though it might be too loose if anything
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But if the clutch is in then the engine shouldn't engage and the wheel wouldn't move - but the chain doesn't appear too tight. Looks as though it might be too loose if anything
Could something be blocking the front sprocket? Is the clutch disengaging properly?
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To be honest I really don't expect it to be a mechanical fault due to one test that I did
- Engine off, in 1st, clutch pulled in - won't start
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Have you got Yamaha Fazer 600 (1998 - 1999) Service Manual?
http://www.archive.org/download/http://archive.org/details/printermanual-yamaha-fazer-fzs600-service-manual-1998 (http://www.archive.org/download/http://archive.org/details/printermanual-yamaha-fazer-fzs600-service-manual-1998)
Chapter 8 has some detailed electrical troubleshooting instructions
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To be honest I really don't expect it to be a mechanical fault due to one test that I did
- Engine off, in 1st, clutch pulled in - won't start
Bike has to be in neutral if the the side stand down to start.
With the bike in gear, the side stand must be up and the clutch must be pulled in to start.
Since it starts in neutral and the side stand tests correctly then the next test must be the clutch switch
Bypass the clutch switch by removing the wires to the clutch switch and connect them together with a piece of wire.
Does the engine start? If it does replace the clutch switch.
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To be honest I really don't expect it to be a mechanical fault due to one test that I did
- Engine off, in 1st, clutch pulled in - won't start
Bike has to be in neutral if the the side stand down to start.
With the bike in gear, the side stand must be up and the clutch must be pulled in to start.
Since it starts in neutral and the side stand tests correctly then the next test must be the clutch switch
Bypass the clutch switch by removing the wires to the clutch switch and connect them together with a piece of wire.
Does the engine start? If it does replace the clutch switch.
Have you tried starting the bike with the side stand up, if it should start try engaging gear (with side stand up) it should not stall, also if you have a centre stand try engaging gear with the bike on the centre stand and the engine off, try turning rear wheel it should not turn, now pull in clutch, wheel should now turn.
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It's certainly behaving like the side stand switch isn't working. Since you've proved the switch itself is OK then I'd guess the fault is either the wiring/connectors between the switch and the starting circuit cut-out relay... or the diode in the relay assembly itself.
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To be honest I really don't expect it to be a mechanical fault due to one test that I did
- Engine off, in 1st, clutch pulled in - won't start
Bike has to be in neutral if the the side stand down to start.
With the bike in gear, the side stand must be up and the clutch must be pulled in to start.
Since it starts in neutral and the side stand tests correctly then the next test must be the clutch switch
Bypass the clutch switch by removing the wires to the clutch switch and connect them together with a piece of wire.
Does the engine start? If it does replace the clutch switch.
Have you tried starting the bike with the side stand up, if it should start try engaging gear (with side stand up) it should not stall, also if you have a centre stand try engaging gear with the bike on the centre stand and the engine off, try turning rear wheel it should not turn, now pull in clutch, wheel should now turn.
Yes, bike starts fine on the centre stand with the side stand up - when you try to engage a gear, it cuts out
Didn't think about trying to move the rear wheel with the engine in gear and clutch pulled in so thanks for that tip :)
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Does the engine die when you pull the clutch in or when you move the pedal after the clutch is pulled ? (I'm guessing when the clutch is pulled by the comments). If so when during the clutch pull does it die and does it make a difference how slowly you release it ?
On the centre stand, if you release the clutch slowly does the rear wheel start to spin ?
When the engine dies is it a splutter/reluctant die or is it an electrical cut out ?
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Nope, engine dies as soon as it is kicked in to gear
Can't test on the centre stand for drive to the rear wheel as the engine cuts out - this is actually what my initial test was supposed to be to make sure the bike was running ok BEFORE I tried to set off on it :P
Seems pretty instant so I'd suggest it is an electrical cut out. I tried holding the revs up a bit and then kicking it in to gear with no joy
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I'd say it was the neutral sensor rather than the clutch or side stand switch in that case ?
When did it start happening ?
All guesswork, I know nowt.
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Surely if it was the Neutral sensor the the bike wouldn't start at all? In my case, if I put the bike in Neutral the green light shows up to indicate this and I can start the engine
Well I guess it technically started as of yesterday?
Bike crashed just over 4 weeks ago - it was ridden home and then garaged whilst I did work on it. In this case the work involved swapping out the nose cone and light unit and replacing the forks. I haven't done anything electrical
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I suppose if you've been fiddling with the front end you could have knocked loose the clutch switch cable or trapped it ?
Lift tank and check the connectors and the wires to and from the clutch switch with an aa battery, wire and light bulb if need be.
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I see you say you've done a rebuild after a crash.
What areas of the bike have you been working on? Logic suggests that it's something you have been working on.
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Work completed;
Remove front fairing, remove light unit from fairing, replace fairing mounting bracket, replace light unit, attach to new front fairing. Remove front forks, strip them down, replace seals (oil and dust), replace fork oil and replace inner fork legs, rebuild forks, reattach forks, reattach front fairing, bleed front brakes.
That's everything - I guess I will need to go hunting after I get a battery for my multimeter. I don't have the spare parts to create a simple light bulb test
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I seem to remember someone having this problem before and it was a connection to the diodes as mentioned in a previous post.
Andy
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I seem to remember someone having this problem before and it was a connection to the diodes as mentioned in a previous post.
Andy
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,3922.msg32072.html#msg32072 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,3922.msg32072.html#msg32072)
Or
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,9697.25.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,9697.25.html)
Maybe ?
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Work completed;
Remove front fairing, remove light unit from fairing, replace fairing mounting bracket, replace light unit, attach to new front fairing. Remove front forks, strip them down, replace seals (oil and dust), replace fork oil and replace inner fork legs, rebuild forks, reattach forks, reattach front fairing, bleed front brakes.
That's everything - I guess I will need to go hunting after I get a battery for my multimeter. I don't have the spare parts to create a simple light bulb test
Nothing stands out there.
What side did the the bike go down on?
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Left hand side
I seem to remember someone having this problem before and it was a connection to the diodes as mentioned in a previous post.
Andy
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,3922.msg32072.html#msg32072[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,3922.msg32072.html#msg32072[/url])
Or
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,9697.25.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,9697.25.html[/url])
Maybe ?
Lol, that second link is this thread you doughnut :P
Bike went down on its left hand side
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Bike went down on its left hand side
I know you've been looking at the side stand switch, but I'd keep delving in there.
Also I'd be having a look at the switch, connectors and wiring on the clutch lever too.
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hi,deadeye..ive got a spare relay if you need one?....there are 2 types ones a 9pin ,the other is a 16pin i think yours being a 2000/01 model is a 9 pin?...if you want to give it a try pm me?...cheers clive.
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Thanks for the offer CRH, but I don't think I'll need it :)
So, this mornings developments. Bike won't start in neutral :'(
Spent a while unclipping things, spraying WD40 on them and reattaching. Then ripped out the stuff for my heated grips... that don't work anyway...
I also took the advice from robby boy about trying to move the rear wheel whilst the clutch was pulled in and no joy... which means the clutch isn't disengaging, great... Looked at the lever a bit closer and oh joy, the screw bit on the end of the clutch cable has snapped and is just bending when the clutch is pulled in. So off with the cable and remove the remains of the screw bit and then that's when I noticed why the bike wasn't starting...
Fecking kill switch has been knocked to half way between on and off *sighs*
So, turn kill switch off, push starter and the bike tries to start (in neutral), awesome! Put bike in gear, push starter, bike tries to start, epic!!
So, it appears whatever problem there was, I have magically resolved. BUT I now need to sort out the clutch... so... much... effort...
Edit: Does anyone know of an alternative to Part No. 9 as listed on this page http://www.yamahascooterspares.co.uk/genuineparts/9654/44/yamaha%20fzs600%20fazer/handle%20switch.%20lever?uID=0 (http://www.yamahascooterspares.co.uk/genuineparts/9654/44/yamaha%20fzs600%20fazer/handle%20switch.%20lever?uID=0)
Would save me the hassle of having to wait for ever due to it being a special order part. Surely there are universal parts available from somewhere, no?
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An update for all you lovely foccers out there which should be a nice change of pace from the "Another one down..." thread ;)
It struck me about a half hour ago that I have a burnt out bike to which I still have the remaining levers... so I run out the garage, dig around in the old rusty parts and find my old handle bars and levers, WITH the bolt I need still intact, booyah!
So the afternoon, work permitting, will be me stripping off the handlebars and replacing them with my Renthals, which turned up today, and my new shorty levers - plus my tacky but cheap new mirrors have arrived as well :D
I don't want to jynx it, but I might be able to go out for a ride this evening! :eek
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I don't want to jynx it, but I might be able to go out for a ride this evening! :eek
:woot
Good luck!
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yesssssss....well done matey :)
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WOOP WOOP.
Sometimes troubleshooting can turn in to a comedy :D
Yeah, I am donut man, hear me roar. Let us know how it goes
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Woo!
Bike is back! Went out for about 30~ glorious and overdue miles this evening to make sure everything was behaving correctly. Not sure if its the new riding position, but my arm was certainly aching. The fact that its only my left arm leads me to believe that my shoulder isn't fully healed yet :(
In any case, a few tidy up jobs required. I need a new front left indicator, refit the mudguard (completely forgot about it...), get some new bar end weights as the bars are buzzy as hell and my existing ones wouldn't even work as paper weights... hell, they'd be blown away before the paper...
Clutch was a bit slippy at first, but I think my bike is just like that as I remember it being a bit finicky when I took it off the road whilst getting the engine studs sorted. In short, it probably needs new clutch plates, but I'm too poor for that at the moment. In any case, it settled in and stopped slipping by the end of the ride :)
Front suspension feels much better after the rebuild and I dropped the forks through the yokes by about 5mm and it feels a bit better for it ^^
Thinking about it, I may get some bar risers... not sure yet though...
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nice one DEADEYE....you both deserve a trip to the seaside :D