Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Punkstig on 30 August 2013, 04:51:18 pm
-
Anybody else heard of this unreleased model?
As the FZS600 was doing so well I heard When Yamaha updated to the foxeye they also looked at releasing an uprated model with better suspension, paintwork etc, but as they were still selling the Thundercat plus all the emission laws were changing they binned the whole idea because they were then obviously releasing the FZ6.
I'm sure there were some spy shots at the time but can't find anything anywhere!
-
Humm, interesting. Sure they weren't taking pics of yours? :lol
Was a towbar an option on those? :rollin
-
Grrrr.....is the noise my exhaust makes :)
-
there were pix in one of the bike mags in 98 , hear y go its why i ended up buying one :D
-
It's amazing how a couple of little changes can totally transform the look of a bike, but on one offs like this its the little things I like- eg the cut away (weight saving) front sprocket cover!
-
So, can anyone on here turn their bike into that?!
-
Does the seat remind you of anything?
hint hint
(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSjdrjbjIvYBQdB360xZ-hkMT1F5B9DHg2Ympi9tM97zi9cZEHO7w)
-
No, it just looks friggin uncomfortable! :rolleyes
-
So, can anyone on here turn their bike into that?!
If I had a large garage and a larger bank account - I think I could.
the seat and fairing could be made from fiberglass layups, the swingarm could be shoehorned in, Punk has shown a T-Cat front end is feasible. Looking at that, the hardest thing to do (and the most expensive) would be the curved radiator. As I presume that's a custom job.
-
I think there's nothing there that can't be done, it's just will that pic inspire anyone to have a go?
I know neither you or I will be the ones to do it Christo....£££££ker-chiiiing! :\
-
Sorry chaps, ill have to let yous down there, my MX headlight doesnt quite cut it compared to that beast.
I do have a fancy front fender though, being sprayed this week. :)
Im not saying my bike will look bad but perhaps lacking the " professional" touch.
Still though i do most pf my own work...& all my own stunts :b
I think Dodssie's our man for this project, looking at his bike, he's already got the suitable colours & his is already shinier than the rr on the pic. 8)
-
I don't actually know what Doddsie's bike looks like - it's like staring at the sun, all you get is this glaring after-image and a headache! :lol
-
So, can anyone on here turn their bike into that?!
Funny you should ask.
I'm just starting my next project bike (I'll start a thread soon) a '98 FZS600. I plan on something very different to that bike. However it occurred to me that if my plan doesn't work then I could build that one instead. Further thinking made me realise that actually I could build two bikes in one! Just the bodywork and handlebars would need to be changed.
Just at the first phase of grafting on some USD forks. Look out for the thread soon.
-
Watching with interest!
-
I think there's nothing there that can't be done, it's just will that pic inspire anyone to have a go?
I know neither you or I will be the ones to do it Christo....£££££ker-chiiiing! :\
One day.
If you scoured Ebay for parts, and built the seat and fairings yourself, I reckon you could build that for under £5K. That includes the extra mods to make it road legal.
The things like the oil cooler etc could be robbed from a car, or even another bike, and plumbed in without too much fuss. The rear swingarm could be modded from a Thunderace, or even an R6! Again - pricey bits would be that curved radiator (unless something like a Suzuki or a Yammy sportsbike sport one). The Ohlins shock may be an ebay item if one's lucky - again, pricey. As would be the front brakes (rear can stay stock whatever the swingarm is). rear sets - go for Chinky jobbies, save a few ££s. Looks like it's higher off the ground too, may even get away with a CBR 600RR type underseat exhaust - which would look beaut. I'd go for a carbon jobbie with that paint scheme. Again, the Bay of E.
Electrickery would be a pain - you'd either need to hide the battery in the seat unit, or push start it all the time. FZ1/8 type drop down numberplate, lights built into the rear fairing. Amazingly, the tank, screen and most of the engine are stock Fazer. Even the frame seems untouched - thank goodness!
Remember - the parts you won't need sell well here - the stock fairing, the stock carbs, the stock forks and a stock shock & swingarm (OK, maybe less so on those last 2). A ratty Fazer with a good engine would work well.
And before anyone gets their oar in - NO, it does NOT need a towbar. :lol
-
So, can anyone on here turn their bike into that?!
Funny you should ask.
I'm just starting my next project bike (I'll start a thread soon) a '98 FZS600. I plan on something very different to that bike. However it occurred to me that if my plan doesn't work then I could build that one instead. Further thinking made me realise that actually I could build two bikes in one! Just the bodywork and handlebars would need to be changed.
Just at the first phase of grafting on some USD forks. Look out for the thread soon.
Mmm tasty, look forward to this one Ruby, sounds :smokin
-
So, can anyone on here turn their bike into that?!
Funny you should ask.
I'm just starting my next project bike (I'll start a thread soon) a '98 FZS600. I plan on something very different to that bike. However it occurred to me that if my plan doesn't work then I could build that one instead. Further thinking made me realise that actually I could build two bikes in one! Just the bodywork and handlebars would need to be changed.
Just at the first phase of grafting on some USD forks. Look out for the thread soon.
Mmm tasty, look forward to this one Ruby, sounds :smokin
That makes 2 of us!
Anyone else noticed how most bikers will mod their bikes (even if it's just an aftermarket can), when car drivers don't do a thing most of the time? I wonder why - is it because we're better connected to the machine?
-
NOTE - some of the smaller R6S radiators are curved - if they were painted silver, it may work - especially as the FZ600-RR has a higher-than-stock mounted rad.
Like so:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/06-07-08-09-R6-S-R6S-Radiator-Fan-s-Engine-Cooler-/271266970572?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f28c57bcc (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/06-07-08-09-R6-S-R6S-Radiator-Fan-s-Engine-Cooler-/271266970572?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f28c57bcc)
-
Even the frame seems untouched - thank goodness!
Pretty sure the lower rail on the subframe has been moved up above the bend of the main frame.
-
Mmm tasty, look forward to this one Ruby, sounds :smokin
You'll have to be very patient. Middle of next year at the VERY earliest. Hopefully. Possibly.
-
Anyone else noticed how most bikers will mod their bikes (even if it's just an aftermarket can), when car drivers don't do a thing most of the time? I wonder why - is it because we're better connected to the machine?
That would more than likely because the majority of bikers own their bikes either in part or in full as leisure items. Not many own a bike purely for commuting from A to B and take no enjoyment out of it
Cars can also be at least as expensive (and more so in some cases) and are harder to work on. Removing the engine from the frame and stripping down the head etc has been a lot easier than replacing the gearbox on my two previous cars... even replacing the exhaust on a car can be a lot of fun solo as the damn things so big its a pain in the ass to control its position whilst you're led on your back with only 2-3 inches of head room :P
-
Also, I don't suppose any of you want a frame from a '99 600 to work with do you? :lol
-
That makes 2 of us!
Anyone else noticed how most bikers will mod their bikes (even if it's just an aftermarket can), when car drivers don't do a thing most of the time? I wonder why - is it because we're better connected to the machine?
As many of us have discovered in the past, and several on this forum more recently, we're not always better connected to the machine! :lol
-
It's amazing how a couple of little changes can totally transform the look of a bike, but on one offs like this its the little things I like- eg the cut away (weight saving) front sprocket cover!
yes, it means you can do the sprocket nut up again without removing the cover
-
So, can anyone on here turn their bike into that?!
hears what i got so far :D
-
Looks good wraith :thumbup
Personally, I'd go for a real smack-in-the-face paint job - if you've got it, foccin broadcast it!
-
Nice job. :)
Are those Gilles rear sets? And are they specific fitment for the FZS600 or from another model?
Cheers.
-
Nice job. :)
Are those Gilles rear sets? And are they specific fitment for the FZS600 or from another model?
Cheers.
C'mon wraith, 'fess up, what's the full spec? :)
-
See, he's nearly there! :lol
-
ok hear goes had the bike since reliese in 98 tried all the fork mods but none done what i wanted so .
suspension front . 2000 rsv mille forks / yokes with a new stem , rsvr magnesium wheel , glaffer disks ,
KAD 6pot billet calipers . clipons , 2003 R1 master cylinder and clutch leaver mount
with adjustable leavers .carbon fiber mud gard
rear 2000 rsv mille swingarm with moded linkige mount ,rsvr magnisium wheel , glaffer disk ,
supersprox sprocket , Ohlins remote res rear shock , carbon fiber hugger
120/70 ,190/55 tyres
frame 2002 R1 rear subframe with Harris bodywork and a combined rear light exhaust hanger is a modded stock
R1 item .
fairing , sides have been shaved on the top for clearence with the bars indicator and mirror holes
fiber glassed up with a little extra in side to brace it [internal braces removed ]
new fairing mounts made from 4mm ally sheet pushing it 60mm forward and 40mm lower
twin HID projector headlights ,double bubble screen ,vapor speedo ,gilles rear sets [no center stand ]
engine stock :( . micron exhaust with a shortend [240mm] performance parts can and home made baffle ,
[ to be modded again soon ]
modded airbox with K&N filter , dinojeted carbs , nicko G pack, Kevlar clutch plats and heavy duty springs ,
0/40 oil [ no i have never had issues] also have extralube and a magnetic oil filter spacer
and K&N oilfilter , modded sprocket cover ,10mm off set sprocket and extended clutch pushrod ,525 chain
carbon/Kevlar generator & starter crash covers .
power/weight aprox 93bhp and 180kg [wet]
to do finish dash [again] the vapor is ok but the rev counter on it is useless,mod the original micron end can
and put it back on also mod the pipe from the collector to midpipe rejet and dino again
fill in the holes around the new head lights and respray all the bodywork.
looking at various engine tuning options at the moment N/A ,nitros and turbo .
would like to get it to about 120bhp some one did get a turbo to 140 but then trashed the engine
all this has been done over the period i have had the bike not all at once .
-
Foooooooooociiiiin elllllllll!!!!!!! :eek , thats some amount of tasty mods buddy.....do you take pills for that :lol
Fair play to you likes that's one original bike.
I dont feel so guilty about my couple of cheap bolt on mods now.
How does it ride?,does it go how you expected, i mean even the standard fazer goes well so what bikes you given a surprise out on the road? 8)
-
Please can we have more pics wraith?
-
rear 2000 rsv mille swingarm with moded linkige mount ,rsvr magnisium wheel , glaffer disk ,
supersprox sprocket , Ohlins remote res rear shock , carbon fiber hugger
120/70 ,190/55 tyres
Hope I'm not thread jacking here and wonder if you could help me out.
I'm planning on a 180 rear tyre on a different swing arm for my build. Did you have any issues with getting the rear wheel centre in relation to keeping the chain run straight? Did the front sprocket need spacing outwards or any other kind of mods to line it all up?
Are the Gilles rear sets specifically for the FZS600, or for another model?
Thanks.
-
Do it, add a nitro or a turbo!
-
If you were to turbo it where would the subsequent weakest links be? Would it be the radiator?
I know nothing about engines but am curious what bits would be in spec and which wouldn't and therefore how much of an impact it would have on the design of the rest of the bike mods and the subsequent cost.
-
Just some thoughts:
A turbo would require flat-topped, forged pistons to drop the measured compression ratio. It would be wise to also do a number of engine-strengthening mods : Shot-peen, or better still, replace rods with Carillo or similar. Are the cranks pressed? If so, weld. Heavy duty valve springs. Heavy duty clutch - not sure what would be best type. Adjustable waste-gate and know what you can set it to, and how to do it by degrees until you reach what you're happy with/won't blow the motor. It may also require some attention to strengthen the gearbox, but I have no idea what you could do in this regard. It's possible that a supercharger could be a better idea, so worth looking into. Nitrous to me seems a pain, as you're always going to be needing top-ups if you use it much, whereas a turbo or supercharger is always just there.
It's not going to be the most common of bikes chosen for these kinds of mods, so don't know what the availability of such parts would be?
Back in the day, people also did "conventional" tuning: hairy cams, big bore kits, smoothbore or flat-slide carbs, porting and gas-flowing. It's generally agreed that such engines were pigs for road use - won't idle, snatchy and bog down until you get them on cam, etc. However, there were some notable tuners who could do a half decent job of it, John Carpenter of Mistral fame is the only one I can think of.
I wonder if modern parts and techniques have improved matters in more recent years?
It seems almost a shame to have all that beautiful chassis work done and then a have a near stock motor, so you've gotta do something to pep the engine up a little!
Dare you tell how much it has cost so far? :eek
-
I like the front mudguard..... its shiney!!!!! :D
-
I like the front mudguard..... its shiney!!!!! :D
Puts your shine to shame eh Doddsie ;) . To be fair I don't think yours is far off concours finish so nothing to be ashamed off. Now my beauty is a bit like Mater from cars "I don't get them dents buffed, pulled, filled or painted by nobody. They're way too valuable." :-)
-
I like the front mudguard..... its shiney!!!!! :D
You need help...
-
the Gilles rear sets are specifically for the FZS600, luckley the mille wheel has 10mm more offset than on the fazer but its not a straight swap as you will need a new swing arm as the stock will not take anything wider as far as i know ,the linkage mounts on the mille arm also need modifying as well as the frame as the arm is wider there are 2 spacers on the inside of the frame that need trimming down also the gear box sprocket cover needs moddifing for chain clearance most of my pix are on photobucket just follow the link , i have not as yet uploaded the latest for the new head lights
[size=78%]http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/wraith600/library/?sort=6&page=1 (http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/wraith600/library/?sort=6&page=1)[/size]
-
If you were to turbo it where would the subsequent weakest links be? Would it be the radiator?
I know nothing about engines but am curious what bits would be in spec and which wouldn't and therefore how much of an impact it would have on the design of the rest of the bike mods and the subsequent cost.
I doubt the radiator is the weakest link - that's an separate system and is mostly impacted by revs but obviously heat does become a concern.
First of all you'd need to modify the carbs I expect and the fuel-air mixture to take advantage of the extra air - compressed air means you can use more fuel with it to produce a bigger bang in the cylinder. The bigger bang is the problem - the pistons and valves need to be strong enough to take the pressure and so does the head and cylinder block. Not sure about bikes, but with some cars you can blow the head gasket quite easily.
I always like the whine of a Supercharger but are they even practical on a motorcycle engine? And I don't mean bikes that have had a seat welded to a car engine that some of the Americans seem to enjoy doing...
-
There are motorcycle specific supercharger set ups. Also, many turbo kit suppliers will supply carbs specifically designed for those kits. You wouldn't usually be using standard carbs and airbox from what I've seen.
You'd also need to think about the size of turbocharger. As far as I'm aware, car turbos tend to have a greater capacity than the ones most commonly used on bikes, I guess cos they're generally feeding larger capacity engines. But firms out there who supply and fit such systems (eg TTS), can advise and supply everything you'd need, fit it all too, but.......you've guessed it: £££££££££££££!!
If you don't do the necessary engine strengthening, you'll blow more than just a head gasket! Picture holed pistons, thrown rods and yer valves in a nasty tangle.... :eek
-
that pic has been my avatar for ages!! if i had a battered old fazer, i'd try copying that. the fairing is the biggest issue. it would have to be sliced horizontally and remoulded to a certain extent, and a mould taken off that. but i'm currently building a fighter at the mo, so no spare funds. BTW, i need a cheap dr650 so if you know of one....
-
the fairing is the biggest issue. it would have to be sliced horizontally and remoulded to a certain extent, and a mould taken off that.
The article says the fairing is probably from a fz400 if that helps. I don't know if that was ever released in the UK tho. I don't know if it's more difficult to make a fzs 600 fairing look like something it subtly isn't.
-
the Gilles rear sets are specifically for the FZS600, luckley the mille wheel has 10mm more offset than on the fazer but its not a straight swap as you will need a new swing arm as the stock will not take anything wider as far as i know ,the linkage mounts on the mille arm also need modifying as well as the frame as the arm is wider there are 2 spacers on the inside of the frame that need trimming down also the gear box sprocket cover needs moddifing for chain clearance most of my pix are on photobucket just follow the link , i have not as yet uploaded the latest for the new head lights
[size=78%]http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/wraith600/library/?sort=6&page=1 ([url]http://s1124.photobucket.com/user/wraith600/library/?sort=6&page=1[/url])[/size]
Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
I've got an EXUP swing arm lined up, but it's 10mm too wide to fit between the frame. I plan on getting 5mm shaved off each side of the swing arm, I just don't know if that's possible or not yet. I went for another Yamaha one in the hope the linkages would line up. Certainly the width of the linkage hole on the swing arm is the same and bolt diameter is the same, so that makes life easier.
Why did you need to cut down the gear box sprocket cover? Did you need to space the sprocket out a bit to clear the tyre? Sorry just re read your previous post and see you had to space the sprocket out by 10mm. I assume that was the front one in order for the chain to clear the tyre and/or line up with the rear sprocket?
-
yep the front sprocket has a 10mm off set even with a525 chain it jused kissed the clutch arm hence the mod to the casing , dont forget to check the difference between the offset in the stock rim and the new one much more than 10mm and you will be getting to close to the frame , i got my front sprocket from TALON ENGINEERING
[/size]
-
So how do you offset the front sprocket? Do you get a spacer machined up or can a sprocket with the required spacer built in be bought? Is that why you mentioned Talon Eng?
This is new territory for me, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the wheel offset the distance from the centre of the rim to the centre line of the rear sprocket? If so the wheel I plan to use is about 10mm wider taking that measurement. Just a quick check with a tape measure, nothing highly accurate.
-
shaving those spacers on the frame is not an issue that had to be done on mine to you will need to get some stainless spacers made up because of the difference in pivot bolt size , and the sprocket was a one off with the offset built in cost £50
-
Great tip on the sprocket from Talon. Thank you. :thumbup I didn't know that you could do that. I'll definitely need one of those.
Rather than cut down the spacers on the frame I was going to cut down the swing arm as there is enough metal there to remove. Not sure how to do it, hoping the tutor at my welding class can advise. That way if the swing arm doesn't work I can try another. I had thought about some inserts and may use them, but I'm going o try and find the correct size roller bearings with smaller inside diameter to take the standard spindle.
Are you able to explain the offset to me please, as per below?
This is new territory for me, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the wheel offset the distance from the centre of the rim to the centre line of the rear sprocket? If so the wheel I plan to use is about 10mm wider taking that measurement. Just a quick check with a tape measure, nothing highly accurate.
-
Great tip on the sprocket from Talon. Thank you. :thumbup I didn't know that you could do that. I'll definitely need one of those.
Rather than cut down the spacers on the frame I was going to cut down the swing arm as there is enough metal there to remove. Not sure how to do it, hoping the tutor at my welding class can advise. That way if the swing arm doesn't work I can try another. I had thought about some inserts and may use them, but I'm going o try and find the correct size roller bearings with smaller inside diameter to take the standard spindle.
Are you able to explain the offset to me please, as per below?
This is new territory for me, so sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the wheel offset the distance from the centre of the rim to the centre line of the rear sprocket? If so the wheel I plan to use is about 10mm wider taking that measurement. Just a quick check with a tape measure, nothing highly accurate.
Surely the point of shaving the spacers instead of the swing arm is they are a shit load cheaper to replace if any mistakes are made, not only that but an unmolested swingarm will have a higher resale value than a shaved one!
-
Surely the point of shaving the spacers instead of the swing arm is they are a shit load cheaper to replace if any mistakes are made, not only that but an unmolested swingarm will have a higher resale value than a shaved one!
I agree. However I may have misunderstood Wraith600 as I read it that he shaved down the spacers that are PART of the frame, not the loose spacers. So that's a big job and expensive too.
Whilst I would rather not cut down the swing arm, it is a necessity as it is 10mm too wide to fit between the frame. So either the swing arm or frame is altered, I can't see how you could achieve it with just different spacers. However I'm happy to be proved wrong and that's why I'm asking the questions, so I can use the easiest solution. My plan is to replace the existing roller bearings with new ones with a smaller inside diameter so I can use the Fazer spindle without resorting to spacers.
Altering the swing arm is not that big a deal as it only cost me £25 and once the build is done the bike will have been heavily modified anyway and it wouldn't be possible to put it back to standard without a lot of work. Plus I have an additional sacrificial one to test on first.
-
In which case, yes, shave the swingarm :lol
-
This is a bit of a noob question but does the thundercat front mudguard / fender bolt straight on to the standard Fazer forks?
-
This is a bit of a noob question but does the thundercat front mudguard / fender bolt straight on to the standard Fazer forks?
Nope