old - Fazer Owners Club - old
General => General => Topic started by: dickturpin on 08 August 2013, 05:49:18 pm
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I've been fitting braided hoses to the bike yesterday and the instructions suggested 12-24lb.ft torque for the banjos (stainless). The manual says 30Nm which isn't vastly different. what I did find and I recall the same when I fitted to my old xt600 that I had to go beyond that torque to get a seal. Have others found the same?
D
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I fitted some of these on my 600 a couple of months ago and just used a good fitting ring spanner to tighten them up, as I don't have a small torque wrench - only a big un .... As long as you don't spend hours in the gym or struggle opening pickle jars, spanners tend to be the right length to apply a reasonable torque when tightening them to the point your not straining, just make sure you don't get them cross threaded and the mating faces and copper washers are clean first.
On the same subject, has anyone fitted a set to a second gen FZ1S (no ABS), the Goodridge and HEL sites refer to 2 line racing setup rather than the currently fitted 1 into 2 ......
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I just had some fitted got the local dealer to fit them cos I was to lazy to do it myself.
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I fitted some Goodridge recently and torqued them as instructed and they've been perfect.
Mickey
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Still cant believe it
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Believe it exup, believe it!!!!
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Believe what?
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Believe what?
The children are bored and need to go back to school!!
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Bit of a dilemma.....hoses fixed but very slight weep on banjo above front wheel. Do i continue to tighten or slacken off and re tighten with further bleeding.
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How tight are they? Did you go on the Haynes manual or Hel... I tightened mine to the Haynes stated torque. I don't remember what that was now, but I never had any leakage in nearly 2 years. It could be a defective banjo bolt too...
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i'm probably a touch past Haynes torque.....I guess what i'm asking is will it seal if I loosen and re-tighten....maybe twist the washer a touch?
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My old man always told me, "tight's tight, too tight's fucked" ambiguous I know but try another washer before you strong arm it and strip the nut/expensive bit
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My old man always told me, "tight's tight, too tight's fucked" ambiguous I know but try another washer before you strong arm it and strip the nut/expensive bit
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That's one way of putting it! :rollin
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I tend to use a spanner and go by "feel" (admittedly I'm a fitter by trade); torque wrenches can be rendered inaccurate by fluids / oils on threads, or by rust (torque settings are factory defined using clean, dry threads). Maybe worth trying a new washer though.
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I tend to use a spanner and go by "feel" (admittedly I'm a fitter by trade); torque wrenches can be rendered inaccurate by fluids / oils on threads, or by rust (torque settings are factory defined using clean, dry threads). Maybe worth trying a new washer though.
+1
Start cheap!
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I think you're right....but there are three washers on the one that's weeping :(
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Should be one either side of banjo. Could be why it's leaking as they give correct spacing on the banjo so the hole lines up properly. Replace both. A whole pack of copper washers won't break the bank! I've never done more than tighten by hand (with spanner of course!) - those threads won't take a great deal of welly. (People use torque wrenches for everything these days. IMO it's overkill for a lot of stuff. It's better to learn to do some things by feel. Internal engine stuff, ok, torque settings bit more important, and a few other exceptions - common sense required)
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Yes one either side of each banjo but this is the point where two banjo sit on one bolt hence three washes
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Sorted....one of the copper washers wasn't quite square and the shoulder of the bolt had damaged it. All good now....thanks gents and remember tight is tight too tight is fooked :lol
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Fitted a few over the years and never used a torque wrench tighten till they are tight job done :rollin