old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: mickvp on 18 July 2013, 05:35:05 pm
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sorry for the most basic, stupid (?) question guys. but I see a lot of mention of balancing carbs on this site. This is great, and something I will do at some point. however, what are the symptoms of a carb out-of-balance? i.e. what will I look for to know when its time to actually do it?
As some of you will know, Ive not long passed my test, and only just got my fazer, so technically the carbs could need balanced now but as the bike is new to me, i may assume that the way it works now is normal, if that makes sense? it doesnt run like a bag of bolts in a washing machine or anything, but now and again the idle is oh-so-slightly lumpy? I assume this could be a symptom of the carbs being out of balance?
sorry :agree
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Before i last had mine balanced the bike was a bit jerky at low speeds, but after 3000rpm it would be okay, which was horrible for me as i ride in traffic a lot.
The balancing sorted that out though.
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perhaps its worth me just getting hold of a carbtune and doing it for peace of mind then, dont suppose it will hurt any doing it now, and then ill know its right after that. so, herky at low speed then. I assume there is a multitude of things that could be down to carbs being out of balance.
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It's such a simple job to do its well worth buying the carb tune (its also nice to have that sense of personal satisfaction doing a job instead of paying a mechanic!)
Biggest give away is the revs at idle, if everything is perfectly synced the needle will stay virtually static at whatever revs the idle is set at, if they're out of balance the needle will wobble and revs will fluctuate of their own accord, the worse the balancing the bigger the fluctuations.
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It's such a simple job to do its well worth buying the carb tune (its also nice to have that sense of personal satisfaction doing a job instead of paying a mechanic!)
Biggest give away is the revs at idle, if everything is perfectly synced the needle will stay virtually static at whatever revs the idle is set at, if they're out of balance the needle will wobble and revs will fluctuate of their own accord, the worse the balancing the bigger the fluctuations.
hmm. you have more or less summed up what happens with mine. a bit wobbly at idle. looks like the credit card will need to brace itself for the hit for a carbtune :lol
And yes, I dont mind doing the job myself, I'm an engineer to trade :)
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I need to do this too, got the Carbtune so I just need to get around it.
People say you need a long screwdriver - how long and flat or philips?
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I need to do this too, got the Carbtune so I just need to get around it.
People say you need a long screwdriver - how long and flat or philips?
Phillips screwdriver, #2 I believe. I use one that is about 300mm
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I used to be quite anal about the fluctuations on my T'cat and was quite frequently attacking the carbtune, but on the T'cat it was ridiculously easy to do, just had to raise the tank (1 bolt) to get to what i needed to.
I've heard on the fazers you need to move the plate under the tank that holds the coils which is easy enough, just a couple more nuts and bolts!
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http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,91.0.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,91.0.html)
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You lot chinwagging about carb balancing, made me bid for a CarbTune on Ebay.........and i just won it with my first bid :D
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Is adjusting the TPS important before/after balancing the carbs?
I'd just do it, except I don't have the security Torx bit
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Is adjusting the TPS important before/after balancing the carbs?
I'd just do it, except I don't have the security Torx bit
In the link i posted above i think he was just making sure the TPS wasn't in the wrong position before starting, it should be at 5000rpm anyway, so it doesn't hurt to check it beforehand.
If your TPS is all good then it'll already be on 5000rpm.
Then it says check it again after the carbs are balanced.
It's a tamper proof T25 torx driver that fits the TPS, the one with the hole in the middle of it.
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carbtune now ordered, so ill get this sorted in the next week or so hopefully. anyone got a link to where i can get a suitable T25 for the TPS, just in case i need it (might as well order one for the few quid it will be)?
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carbtune now ordered, so ill get this sorted in the next week or so hopefully. anyone got a link to where i can get a suitable T25 for the TPS, just in case i need it (might as well order one for the few quid it will be)?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline-Turbo-Twist-Tamperproof-Security-Screwdriver-Torx-T25-x-100mm-250523-/380468262420?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5895acf614#ht_1715wt_1170 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline-Turbo-Twist-Tamperproof-Security-Screwdriver-Torx-T25-x-100mm-250523-/380468262420?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5895acf614#ht_1715wt_1170)
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oh, a hole like that in the end? thats ok then, my wera torx set has holes like that already - always wondered why they were there :lol
Cheers buddy (http://www.vivapotenza.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
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I'm guessing that'll be the same size torx for the 1000's TPS?
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I'm guessing that'll be the same size torx for the 1000's TPS?
Apparently not........ http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=3024.0 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=3024.0)
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Ah, thanks for that :)
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carbtune has arrived - im going in!
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erm... should it be this bouncy? how are you supposed to balance this?!? :
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ee5pnOYkW3E (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ee5pnOYkW3E#)
...Or have I a problem somewhere?
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Did you put the restrictors in?
It's the piece of clear tube with a tiny bore. You need to cut it into 4 and put a piece in each of the 4 Carbtune hoses.
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Did you put the restrictors in?
It's the piece of clear tube with a tiny bore. You need to cut it into 4 and put a piece in each of the 4 Carbtune hoses.
ah... that will be why then. perhaps reading the instructions WOULD have been a benefit :lol
Cheers buddy :)
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yes. fitted those clear resistors, and there was still very slight bouncing, but it was much removed from that video.
Its worthy of note to those considering this that the Philips screwdriver is indeed a #2, and needs to be at least about 200mm, it also needs to have a fairly low profile shank, as I tried with a magnetic snap on one with variable heads, and that wouldnt fit down the gap!
I also tried it with a halfords pro screwdriver, which went down ok, but was so tight in the gaps that i couldnt get the angle required to get onto the screw correctly (which risks rounding it). in the end it was an el cheapo screwriver ive had for about 5-6 years which has a very narrow shank which turned out to be the perfect tool for the job, typical!
On the up-side, the bike seems much better now, it is revving much more responsively and smoothly all the way through the revs, the clutch action seems slightly smoother (that may be in the mind though?).
The idle is still very slightly lumpy, so I think I will change the plugs/oil filter/air filter/oil, and then balance the cars again, this should solve my issues I would have thought, I need to do it anyway as im not sure when it was last done.
Thanks everyone for their help, a good purchase is the carbtune, its a nice bit of kit (http://www.vivapotenza.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
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Cheers for the heads up, i'm waiting for mine to arrive, and i also ordered a 300mm long #2 screwdriver so that should do nicely. :)
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Finally did my first carb balance today :)
In fairness i could have just left them alone when i turned the engine on, but #4 carb just needed a tweak so couldn't resist.
I should've read this post again first as my shiny new 300mm long #2 screwdriver that i ordered actually had a hexagon shank which didn't fit into the gap for 3 & 4 carb screw, so put it all back together and got a round version from Halfords and as mickvp says you can't quite get a good enough angle on the screw, so i ended up using a cheap old short flat bladed screwdriver that was laying about instead :rolleyes
I checked my TPS beforehand and for some reason it was at 0rpm which was a bit odd as i only set it last week, but i reset it again to 5000rpm, and checked again afterwards and it was still where it should be.
Quick question though, i understand that the levels on the Carbtune should be as close as possible, but are there limits that are classed as acceptable (or non acceptable), and if so what are the limits that would make the bike misbehave, just out of curiosity?
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I think I read somewhere they have all to be within 3 divisions on the carbtune. Don't ask me where though..
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I think I read somewhere they have all to be within 3 divisions on the carbtune. Don't ask me where though..
Are we talking the little lines?
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Yes. The small lines :)
Ah... It says in the guide here:
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,91.0.html
Max difference is 10Hg (about 2 1/2 lines)
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(bear in mind this is a photo, the rods were moving up and down a little)
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Haynes-
Max difference between carbs 10mmHg
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Haynes-
Max difference between carbs 10mmHg
Is it?
I've still scraped it for now by the looks of things, but now i know what i'm doing i can always do it again.
I just read the Carbtune instructions and it said to use the restricted end of the tubes at the engine end.
I made a balls up there then :rolleyes
It's running fine so i'm not too worried, i'm sure it's a damn site better than a lot of bikes on the road!
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Hahah, I balanced tonight too and made exactly the same mistake (which I didn't realise until I read your post)
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Hahah, I balanced tonight too and made exactly the same mistake (which I didn't realise until I read your post)
It's not a bad job, but firstly you need some kind of slightly offset screwdriver to make life easier, and a special layer to stop you from burning your hands!
I did mine after a run on the bike so the engine was HOT :eek
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Just ordered my carb tuner.I'm going to connect mine up to the the carbs before removing the tank,hopefully I'll be able to get in and do this, to check how out of sync they are before stripping the tank off.I'm guessing they're going to need doing as the bike has a slightly rough idle.I don't think they have ever been done and it's recommended you do them every 6000 miles.
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Just ordered my carb tuner.I'm going to connect mine up to the the carbs before removing the tank,hopefully I'll be able to get in and do this, to check how out of sync they are before stripping the tank off.I'm guessing they're going to need doing as the bike has a slightly rough idle.I don't think they have ever been done and it's recommended you do them every 6000 miles.
I just gently lifted the tank and turned it round to face the other way, after unplugging the fuel gauge connector, then i used 2 bungees to make sure it didn't fall off.
As long as it doesn't shove it down with rain i'm gonna do mine again tomorrow, 'cos i'm a pedantic git and i know i can make them a bit more balanced, even though they're very acceptable the way they are now.
And i must remember to put the restricted end of the pipes on the engine this time :rolleyes
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Balanced the carbs again this morning (got a couple of days off work), and what a difference it makes :)
I persevered a bit longer this time to try and get it the best i could, and unfortunately decided to settle with 2, 3 & 4 carbs absolutely level and number 1 carb one small digit different.
Well within spec, but kind of frustrating for me.
The adjuster screw for 1 & 2 is in such a pig of a place that i found it difficult to get a proper feel for it, so was constantly turning it before i found a good enough postion.
I thought they looked quite okay when i first put the Carbtune on but i just took the bike for a spin and it makes a world of difference.
The throttle response, smoothness and acceleration in any gear was simply lovely, and any vibration that might have been there is certainly not there now.
Add to that the money i've already saved in mechanic fees, and the satisfaction knowing that i did it myself and have seen with my own eyes that it's all been done correctly means that the job is definitely a good'un :D
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Good one mate.
How much difference did it make having the hoses the right way round?
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Good one mate.
How much difference did it make having the hoses the right way round?
Can't say to be honest, i spent more time doing it today, and didn't ride it when i adjusted them on Friday?
They seemed quite specific about it on the Carbtune website though.
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Good one mate.
How much difference did it make having the hoses the right way round?
Can't say to be honest, i spent more time doing it today, and didn't ride it when i adjusted them on Friday?
They seemed quite specific about it on the Carbtune website though.
I assume he means how much difference did it make to the carbtune needles bouncing, having the restrictors at the "right" end.
It does make a fair bit of difference in my own experience though :)
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Good one mate.
How much difference did it make having the hoses the right way round?
Can't say to be honest, i spent more time doing it today, and didn't ride it when i adjusted them on Friday?
They seemed quite specific about it on the Carbtune website though.
I assume he means how much difference did it make to the carbtune needles bouncing, having the restrictors at the "right" end.
It does make a fair bit of difference in my own experience though :)
Only thing i did notice this time was that the needles took longer to settle into place, i thought they were stuck up high a couple of times and had to blip the throttle just to make sure.
It didn't do that the first time round.
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Just ensure the carbtune unit is positioned vertically, otherwise the rods may stick and really confuse you with its weird readings. :lol
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Just ensure the carbtune unit is positioned vertically, otherwise the rods may stick and really confuse you with its weird readings. :lol
I'd already though of that so i hung it off the handlebar as shown in the manual. :)
Although it's 2nd hand the person i got it off said he only used it 4 times and it's all properly bagged up and looking in mint condition.
I still think that there's gotta be a better screwdriver than a #2 to use on the left side screw though, i couldn't get it to seat properly to feel when i was turning it, it was all a bit random.
I might grab a handful of long screwdrivers from work and experiment.
For the right screw i used a short flat blade, that worked a treat.
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a #2 seats fine as long as it has a thin enough shank. grind the shank down a bit to give you clearance if needed ;)
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a #2 seats fine as long as it has a thin enough shank. grind the shank down a bit to give you clearance if needed ;)
Yeah, that does sound like a plan..... :)
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Is this an easy job to do by yourself at home? I thought carb tunes would be expensive but I can get one for about £55 on ebay and a garage will probably charge about £40 to do it for me so it pays for itself in 2 goes really. How did you mount the tank to give you a fuel line whilst still getting to the carbs? Do you need any other special tools, I see theres some screwdriver issues going on I have a few long ones but they're pretty standard. I also just checked my tps for the first time and that needs adjusting too so I've ordered the tool for that, It reads 0 but also 10,000? Definitely not 5k anyway. Step 1 says make sure you've balanced your carbs so...
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Is this an easy job to do by yourself at home? I thought carb tunes would be expensive but I can get one for about £55 on ebay and a garage will probably charge about £40 to do it for me so it pays for itself in 2 goes really. How did you mount the tank to give you a fuel line whilst still getting to the carbs? Do you need any other special tools, I see theres some screwdriver issues going on I have a few long ones but they're pretty standard. I also just checked my tps for the first time and that needs adjusting too so I've ordered the tool for that, It reads 0 but also 10,000? Definitely not 5k anyway. Step 1 says make sure you've balanced your carbs so...
I've done it twice now in the last few days, as i wasn't happy with the first attempt, and then found out i had the tubes the wrong way round.
I checked the TPS before and after i balanced the carbs, remembering if an adjustment to the TPS is needed the engine should be at operating temperature.
A few tips i can give, firstly take the blanking caps off and fit the pipes on when the bike is cold, as i found a very hot engine is a bit of a bugger otherwise. Then let the bike warm up until normal tickover is reached.
All i did was take the tank bolts out, after unplugging the fuel gauge plug, then very carefully lifted the tank with the fuel pipe still attached and aimed the tank the other way. It just rests okay without putting any pressure on the fuel tap at all, then i used 2 bungees to secure it in place to prevent any accidents. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, don't blame me if you end up with a metal bonfire!
I'm gonna experiment with the screwdriver issue, as it's definitely a bit fiddly and can be made easier.
Other than that follow the instructions in the manual, which are very simple, and take your time, don't rush it, 'cos the results are really worth it. :)
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I've had the tank off several times so I'm confident doing it, it's easy enough if you're careful but when you say aimed it the other way do you mean having it facing to the left or right of the bike with the bike pointing forwards? Thanks for the advice though anyway I just ordered one and the torx driver you need to adjust the TPS. Hopefully they arrive soon so the bike is running nice and sweet for when I go to wales in 2 weeks. :)
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Turn the tank 180 degrees
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I've had the tank off several times so I'm confident doing it, it's easy enough if you're careful but when you say aimed it the other way do you mean having it facing to the left or right of the bike with the bike pointing forwards? Thanks for the advice though anyway I just ordered one and the torx driver you need to adjust the TPS. Hopefully they arrive soon so the bike is running nice and sweet for when I go to wales in 2 weeks. :)
Turn the tank clockwise 180 degrees, so it's facing backwards.
I did it standing on the right side of the bike.
There must've been a reason i did this, probably not to kink the fuel pipe?
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Ah right I see what you mean now, do you need anything under the tank like a block of wood to hold it up for some clearance?
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Ah right I see what you mean now, do you need anything under the tank like a block of wood to hold it up for some clearance?
I actually put a foam knee mat across the battery thinking it would sit on that but it didn't even touch it, so no not really.
Although covering the battery wasn't a bad idea anyway just in case of any accidental leakage.
Make sure you secure it though, even though it appears to sit quite happily on its own.
Always safety first when fuel is involved. :smokin
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Well my carbtune arrived in the post today so I went for it. Followed the guide which was brilliant because I couldn't even see the left and right adjustment screws at first, then when I did I sobbed a little at how ridiculously hard they are to get to especially the right. Got there in the end though after a trip to toolstation for a foc off long screwdriver. Got them all within the 2 cm spec, although they do bounce around a little but they were all within the lines and level so I was happy with that. I finally did the TPS as well and set it to 5k. Bike feels great at low revs now, a lot smoother. Would definitely recommend anyone considering doing these 2 jobs to get them done because you won't regret it.
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Well my carbtune arrived in the post today so I went for it. Followed the guide which was brilliant because I couldn't even see the left and right adjustment screws at first, then when I did I sobbed a little at how ridiculously hard they are to get to especially the right. Got there in the end though after a trip to toolstation for a foc off long screwdriver. Got them all within the 2 cm spec, although they do bounce around a little but they were all within the lines and level so I was happy with that. I finally did the TPS as well and set it to 5k. Bike feels great at low revs now, a lot smoother. Would definitely recommend anyone considering doing these 2 jobs to get them done because you won't regret it.
I used a cheap 4" flat blade on the right side, it was much easier.
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Funnily enough that's what I did too, couldn't get the phillips onto the threads at all and had enough room on the right to get the shorter flathead I have down into it. The middle and left screw needed the long phillips though. Runs a hell of a lot sweeter now. Wouldn't be scared to do it again next time it needs doing either, wasn't as difficult as I imagined once I had all the correct tools.
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Undertaken this task again today (3rd times the charm) after forgetting all about the restrictors on my previous attempts.
The issue I have is that they are completely out of spec - I can sync them up but they all sync to about 19-20 cmHg whereas the spec says 23-25
I'm also pretty certain that cylinder 1 is the culprit in some way. If I adjust the centre screw in favour of 3+4 the revs rise and so does the cmHg across all cylinders - this is an even increment across 3+4 then a slightly lower on 2 and only very slight increment on 1. Same sort of circumstance if I adjust the left hand screw (for 1+2) in favour of 2. 2 obviously rises but so does 1, just at not such an extreme rate. With 3+4 if I adjust then one will drop about as much as the other increases, which is what I expect to happen
So basically, what the crap is going on with cylinder 1?! I unfortunately don't know enough about the importance or meaning of these measurements to start building up a prognosis :(
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if you wind all 3 screws in/out, the overall vaccuum should move?
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Undertaken this task again today (3rd times the charm) after forgetting all about the restrictors on my previous attempts.
The issue I have is that they are completely out of spec - I can sync them up but they all sync to about 19-20 cmHg whereas the spec says 23-25
I'm also pretty certain that cylinder 1 is the culprit in some way. If I adjust the centre screw in favour of 3+4 the revs rise and so does the cmHg across all cylinders - this is an even increment across 3+4 then a slightly lower on 2 and only very slight increment on 1. Same sort of circumstance if I adjust the left hand screw (for 1+2) in favour of 2. 2 obviously rises but so does 1, just at not such an extreme rate. With 3+4 if I adjust then one will drop about as much as the other increases, which is what I expect to happen
So basically, what the crap is going on with cylinder 1?! I unfortunately don't know enough about the importance or meaning of these measurements to start building up a prognosis :(
how gentle are you using the screwdriver- you should be trying your damned best not to be pushing on it at all as this will affect the gauge readout, also after every little adjustment blip the throttle and re read the gauges, its this that makes adjusting time consuming!
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if you wind all 3 screws in/out, the overall vaccuum should move?
For some reason I hadn't considered this... must be my bad day
Punkstig - I was using very little pressure as I know that if you push down it affects the readings and always blipped the throttle between adjustments
Unfortunately the bike and I had a slight accident which resulted in the front end being destroyed on a ride this afternoon so it seems all my fettling was in vein as its off the road until I can fix it up :'(
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if you wind all 3 screws in/out, the overall vaccuum should move?
For some reason I hadn't considered this... must be my bad day
Punkstig - I was using very little pressure as I know that if you push down it affects the readings and always blipped the throttle between adjustments
Unfortunately the bike and I had a slight accident which resulted in the front end being destroyed on a ride this afternoon so it seems all my fettling was in vein as its off the road until I can fix it up :'(
WHAT???? :groan
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"....Unfortunately the bike and I had a slight accident...."
You fell over that cliff didn't you? :'(
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I may as well have :(
I'm certainly out of commission for a few days, the bike probably longer...
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,8908.msg92310.html#msg92310 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,8908.msg92310.html#msg92310)
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if you wind all 3 screws in/out, the overall vaccuum should move?
For some reason I hadn't considered this... must be my bad day
Punkstig - I was using very little pressure as I know that if you push down it affects the readings and always blipped the throttle between adjustments
Unfortunately the bike and I had a slight accident which resulted in the front end being destroyed on a ride this afternoon so it seems all my fettling was in vein as its off the road until I can fix it up :'(
It doesn't matter mate what they're on as long as they're all close!
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It doesn't matter mate what they're on as long as they're all close!
The Haynes book of lies says all 4 reading when balanced should be between 230 to 250 mmHg.
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Seems pointless to specify something that can't be adjusted
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Would it not indicate that something is amiss if you're not within spec?
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I can't remember what numbers the gauges were at when I was doing it, it was 20 something but in the instruction booklet it said that it doesnt matter what number it is at particularly as long as they are all level and within 1-2 cm of mercury. Mine is running nice and smooth now but have I done it wrong by not getting it within 230mm or whatever it is?
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I can't remember what numbers the gauges were at when I was doing it, it was 20 something but in the instruction booklet it said that it doesnt matter what number it is at particularly as long as they are all level and within 1-2 cm of mercury. Mine is running nice and smooth now but have I done it wrong by not getting it within 230mm or whatever it is?
It's in relation to the measurements listed on the Carbtune, not a physical cm of the rod.
It should be within 10mmHg (dunno what that means?) so would actually need to be within two of the smaller lines.
Okay, just learnt that Hg is the chemical symbol for mercury, i never knew that! :)
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Hg is the chemical symbol for mercury, it just means the vacuum required to displace 10mm(3) of mercury.
As I said earlier, I was under the impression if you moved all 3 screws an equal amount, you could achieve the overall level of vacuum as laid out in the Haynes manual. I'm not sure how much it matters though, although mines is where it should be.
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Hg is the chemical symbol for mercury, it just means the vacuum required to displace 10mm(3) of mercury.
As I said earlier, I was under the impression if you moved all 3 screws an equal amount, you could achieve the overall level of vacuum as laid out in the Haynes manual. I'm not sure how much it matters though, although mines is where it should be.
Yeah, my photo' on the previous page puts mine in the good books too, although i've adjusted it again since then and it's even better now.
Took the bike out for a spin today after refitting my Moto GP exhaust and it felt and sounded awesome, and was pulling like a train. :)
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Well mine was running better with them all balanced correctly (even with the low vacuum) up until my little fight with a corner...
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When I've balanced carbs in the past, I've just been concerned with getting a level reading across all four, and didn't used to worry too much what that reading was. With wear and tear on higher mileage engines, I believe it would become more difficult to ensure that the actual reading would be perfect anyway. The goal is to get the bike running as smoothly as you can and not worry too much about whether or not you are perfectly "on spec". Obviously if you are no where near the recommended settings you may have another problem, but this would probably manifest itself in other noticeable symptoms anyway. I also seem to remember that you usually have one "reference" carb, and I seem to remember that this one doesn't usually respond in quite the same way as the other 3. But it's a while since I've done this myself, and perhaps my memory is a little cloudy.
Actually, come to think of it now, on some bikes the reference carb is not adjustable?
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When I've balanced carbs in the past, I've just been concerned with getting a level reading across all four, and didn't used to worry too much what that reading was. With wear and tear on higher mileage engines, I believe it would become more difficult to ensure that the actual reading would be perfect anyway. The goal is to get the bike running as smoothly as you can and not worry too much about whether or not you are perfectly "on spec". Obviously if you are no where near the recommended settings you may have another problem, but this would probably manifest itself in other noticeable symptoms anyway. I also seem to remember that you usually have one "reference" carb, and I seem to remember that this one doesn't usually respond in quite the same way as the other 3. But it's a while since I've done this myself, and perhaps my memory is a little cloudy.
Actually, come to think of it now, on some bikes the reference carb is not adjustable?
I wonder if that's carb #1 then, 'cos it didn't appear to move much when tweaking it?
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If there is a reference carb on the FZS, surely it must refer to it in the manual? Again, this is from a rusty memory, but usually I think it's 2 or 3. But my experience is also with older Kawa***i fours (z650s &c) so may not be 100% relevant here.
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I think it just said balance 1 & 2 first, then 3&4, then balance them together to level them all from memory.
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There is no reference carb on the Fazer as all 4 are adjustable. A reference carb is usually used when each carb is independently adjustable of the others. On the fazer, there are three adjustment screws, but each affects at least 2 carbs. So as we know; Left balances 1 and 2, Right balances 3 and 4 and Middle balances 1+2 against 3+4
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Just balanced my carbs,did it because I had some clutch rattle which annoyed me, and it has completely eradicated it.The carbs weren't that far out but that small adjustment has made all the difference.Money well spent.