old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: samberking on 02 November 2011, 04:07:47 pm
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Hi All,
I think the above says it all. My bike is 100% standard and I was looking for some good ideas.
Ta Danny
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K&N air filter and an end can are the easiest starting points. Probably makes more noise than power though.
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I had a Scorpion can on for a while, I found I rode quicker when I went back to standard :\ whether that was cos the horses didn't like the can, or I just didnt like the extra noise so wasn't so aggressive with the throttle, I'm not sure!
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U could find out how the thundercat moter was down tuned for fazer and retune it back up
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how much do you want to spend :evil
http://fazerowners.yuku.com/topic/32785/my-600#.TrGnakMkDdx (http://fazerowners.yuku.com/topic/32785/my-600#.TrGnakMkDdx) [link to old site ]
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/wraith600/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ32 (http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/wraith600/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ32)
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,484.0.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,484.0.html)
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U could find out how the thundercat moter was down tuned for fazer and retune it back up
there are not many parts on the 600 fazer that is the same as the thundercat,the crankcases,pistons,cylinder head,cams,cam chain,crank shaft,cam shaft cover and con rods are all unique to the fazer,the clutch is the same as is the piston rings,basicaly the engine is unique to the fazer 600.
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As mentioned the FZS is is not a thundercat engine, and a thundercat engine will not fit in a fazer frame (not without surgery anyway). If you wanna get more power from the fazer then a freer flowing air filter is a good start along with an end can. Then it starts to get more indepth, A G-Pack ignition unit will increase the revs and power available in the lower gears. Altering the gearing via the sprocket will give you more acceloration but rob you of the top end. You could invest in some dyno time to set the bike up perfectly but you will only gain a few more BHP this way, then there is engine tuning (IE big bores, flowed heads, etc etc) but this will start costing serious wedge.
If you want more speed then sell the 600 and buy the 1000. I went down this route but found the 1000 didn't handle as well as the 600 so sold the 1000 and went back to the 600.
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You will spend a lot of time and money and get some 10hp more at best. It is hardly noticeable. You could also change sprockets - that is a bit more noticeable I think, but the best thing to do is just get another bike. It will be cheaper and simpler.
Things to consider adding more power (and riding it for all it's worth!) are suspension and frame stiffness - both not up to the task of high speed riding on FZS. They are OK. Especially for a 95 hp engine, but for over 100 hp high speed - I'd just get a Thundercat, R6 or something like that. CBR600F or RR should be fine as well.
However, if you have enough time, money and like fiddling with a bike that works, KN air filter, DynoJet kit, Arrow/Scorpion/Akrapovic end can (or full exhaust tubes as well) will give you more hp.
To tame it all and stay on the pavement, you will also need some better, stiffer, suspension. Wilbers monoshock and fork springs.
That should make a nice tuned Fazer.
Correct me if I got prices wrong:
KN filter around 70 euros
DynoJet kit 100 e
Arrow end can 350 e
Decent Wilbers mono shock 500 e
Wilbers springs - no idea.
That's around 1000 euros. If you have money and time, you will be happy. Forget price soon and remember the ride forewer. However, if you want quicker sportier bike, selling FZS and getting another motorcycle is the best thing to do.
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TTS used to advertise a 660cc big bore kit for the T'cat, however they never answered my enquiry for costs etc a couple of years back and from memory only one person on the old messageboard had successfully fitted the larger pistons to their FZS600.
A real pity as a 10% capacity hike would have given a decent performance gain.....maybe if enough people pushed TTS for a group buy they might reconsider!
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I would just like to say many thanks for all your comments. I will take them all on board.
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How do I make my Fazer faster ??
Buy something that isn't a Fazer... :eek
Before my brain fully developed at the age of 25 I put a lot of effort and £££ into aftermarket cans, fairings, bigger carbs and even nitrobenzene in the fuel.
In the end none of it was worthwhile cos the engine and drive-train always broke in the end or wore out faster and it would have been cheaper to buy a bike that was designed to be faster in the first place.
Anyway, how is 135MPH and 0-60 in 4.2 seconds not fast enough?? Whenever I try to go faster than 120 the world scares me sh*tless (trouble staying on the right side of the road round bends and small animals run under my front tyre with near fatal consequences for both of us) and when I accelerate hard the rear end comes unstuck.
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:lol :lol :lol I had 130 the other day and want more speed. Im so glad I sold my bandit for a fazer.
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:lol :lol :lol I had 130 the other day and want more speed. Im so glad I sold my bandit for a fazer.
Hold the throttle a bit longer then and you'll get a bit more, mine is standard apart from a stainless downpipe and delkevic stubby can (without baffle fitted), checked the speedo last weekend with gps selotaped to the bars, clock said 150mph while gps said 140mph, mind you I'm only little so maybe a diet would be the first thing to try :lol
As said before if you want more than 140mph a budget built 600 isn't realy the right choice of bike.
How often do you get a clear enough bit of dry road to realy go that fast anyway.
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It's usually the rider not the bike that needs alterations. Not meaning to be rude at all but it's worth spending your money on something like this http://www.superbikeschool.co.uk (http://www.superbikeschool.co.uk/) than adding bits to your bike.
Anne
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Does Mike from Spain who tunes the 1000 fazer do the same Ivans kit for the 600?
He came over and did my 1000 with another bike in my garage so he killed 2 birds with 1 stone. :rolleyes
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Dont think the original FZS600 was released in the U.S., so no Ivans jet kit for it.
You could also change the sprockets for more acceleration, but then less top speed, more gear changes and poorer fuel economy. Or perhaps just redline what you already have....
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There's always the nitrous (http://www.noswizard.com/index.php/bike-nitrous-2/sb50-motorcycle-kit.html) option. :lol
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There's always the nitrous ([url]http://www.noswizard.com/index.php/bike-nitrous-2/sb50-motorcycle-kit.html[/url]) option. :lol
Reminds me of photo seen on here recently... :)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/LumpyXX/111021OopsFazer011a.jpg)
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ouch :rollin
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To be fair, that wasn't caused by a nitrous kit, and a quick skim through NOSWizard's forum showed people have fitted kits to 600cc Bandits... a Fazer would probably be just as suitable.
Having said that, there's no way I'd risk it with my bike. I'd like it to last a while longer and am quite capable of scaring myself silly with a mere 90-odd horsepower anyway. :rollin
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It's usually the rider not the bike that needs alterations. Not meaning to be rude at all but it's worth spending your money on something like this [url]http://www.superbikeschool.co.uk[/url] ([url]http://www.superbikeschool.co.uk/[/url]) than adding bits to your bike.
Anne
LOL Ive been looking at things like this before. Your spot on there Anne. Have you done a course there before? If so whats it like?
Ta Danny
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Sounds to me like most people here want midrange performance improvement, and are happy with the 600's top speed?
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Hi does anyone what i would have to get tuned or changed if i was to put high rise cams in it :\
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Simple answer to the original question - trade it for a gen 1 thou :lol
Seriously though, what gave you the idea to go for high lift cams? Curious.
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Simple answer to the original question - trade it for a gen 1 thou :lol
Seriously though, what gave you the idea to go for high lift cams? Curious.
Out of curiosity - what would that actually do?
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Fzr 600 cams are exactly the same in every way appart from the power peak its more violent than the fazer so a straight swap of cams should give me a nice powerfull kick
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Fzr 600 cams are exactly the same in every way appart from the power peak its more violent than the fazer so a straight swap of cams should give me a nice powerfull kick
A kick, OK, will it improve max power though?
How would the FZR cams fit on? And what about piston clearence?
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Simple answer to the original question - trade it for a gen 1 thou :lol
Seriously though, what gave you the idea to go for high lift cams? Curious.
Out of curiosity - what would that actually do?
Put more air and fuel into the cylinder...
I think it all depends on what op means by faster?
Faster in a straight line? if so your buggered without throwing big money at it, in which case you will be better off with a different bike..
Faster to ride? This can be cured with better suspension and brakes and of course practice..
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The difference would be in the aggresive clime of the revs compared to the standard fazer's, the fzr 600 cams are made so the vaulves open and close quicker there for increasing the way the power would climb instead of the fazers smooth power but ive never seen anyone attempt it but they do fit cause ive got a set of fzr cams and they fit fine but i dont want to put them in without knowing what im getting into
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From what I can gather, the idea is to increase fuel flow to the combustion chamber. This can be done via camshafts either by increasing lift of, or by increasing the duration of opening of the intake valves. But there are some things to be careful of. You must have sufficient valve to piston clearance for the lift you wish to achieve. If you take 2 cams with identical duration but one has higher lift, the valves on the high lift example will open more rapidly. This is desirable as you should strive for the nearest to instantaneous opening that you can achieve (actual instantaneous is impossible). However, at extremes it can result in valve bounce, where the valve is effectively propelled by the speed of opening rather than following the cam profile. To counter this, you could use heavy duty valve springs which would give more control over how the valves open. I think maybe high lift cams would also make the engine more peaky? (i.e. less torque/mid range but more top end revvy). That's about as far as my understanding goes, and I'd be interested to hear from someone who really knows what they are talking about!
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The difference would be in the aggresive clime of the revs compared to the standard fazer's, the fzr 600 cams are made so the vaulves open and close quicker there for increasing the way the power would climb instead of the fazers smooth power but ive never seen anyone attempt it but they do fit cause ive got a set of fzr cams and they fit fine but i dont want to put them in without knowing what im getting into
Is this aggressive power curve you speak of not the characteristic of the exup valve??
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The difference would be in the aggresive clime of the revs compared to the standard fazer's, the fzr 600 cams are made so the vaulves open and close quicker there for increasing the way the power would climb instead of the fazers smooth power but ive never seen anyone attempt it but they do fit cause ive got a set of fzr cams and they fit fine but i dont want to put them in without knowing what im getting into
Be careful, your cylinder head and cam caps are machined together for very close tolerances, and must be carefully matched for the cams.
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Hi All,
I think the above says it all. My bike is 100% standard and I was looking for some good ideas.
Ta Danny
simples......paint it blue :)
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I think maybe high lift cams would also make the engine more peaky? (i.e. less torque/mid range but more top end revvy). That's about as far as my understanding goes, and I'd be interested to hear from someone who really knows what they are talking about!
A higher lift but equal duration cam gives engines more low end torque, as a rule it's the duration and overlap that give an engine more top end power.
A good explanation is here:
http://www.streetracersonline.com/articles/camshafts/ (http://www.streetracersonline.com/articles/camshafts/)
Something to note though, is with higher duration cams there's more valve overlap, which is why engines with cams like that run like shit at low rpm.
Although the rules on overlap on the site change with forced induction; you don't need as much because the turbo or supercharger is forcing the mixture in, so can minimise it at low rpm.
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Swap every nut, bolt, and part, like for like, with an R1.
You should find a huge difference in seating position, acceleration, and general all round oomph.
NEXT WEEKS QUESTION:
How can i make my bike slower?
Answer: Buy a car.......sorted :b
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I used to do quite a bit of engine tuning in my younger years, swapping cams, porting heads, bigger carbs etc....... It rarely makes the bike "better" for the road, peaky power delivery, boggy at the lower end, stupidly high tickover that's lumpy as fook, nightmare to ride in traffic. Overheating, unreliability, the list goes on.
You'll gain a little power by cams/head tuning, but won't necessarily make the bike faster. The best tuning you can do, is get the suspension sorted, then some advanced training, or track tuition. THEN it'll be a lot quicker! You watch a good rider on a 400 hit the twisties, he don't need massive power, just big skill!
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I used to do quite a bit of engine tuning in my younger years, swapping cams, porting heads, bigger carbs etc....... It rarely makes the bike "better" for the road, peaky power delivery, boggy at the lower end, stupidly high tickover that's lumpy as fook, nightmare to ride in traffic. Overheating, unreliability, the list goes on.
You'll gain a little power by cams/head tuning, but won't necessarily make the bike faster. The best tuning you can do, is get the suspension sorted, then some advanced training, or track tuition. THEN it'll be a lot quicker! You watch a good rider on a 400 hit the twisties, he don't need massive power, just big skill!
James May experimenting with the FS1 (Fizzy) is a perfect example :)
Bikes are made by boffins after years of modifying and getting things just right.
Admittedly some materials used in construction are questionable, like exhausts, sprocket nuts and headlights, but the bike as a whole is well engineered, reliable and fun, and probably at it's peak state of performance 90% of the time off the shelf from new!
If you want a quicker bike, buy a quicker bike......it ain't rocket science!
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Or buy a rocket......but according to "Fuelly" their fuel consumption is pants!
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fit a turbo....
Seriously though, without spending big money and then having to spend more upgrading suspension etc then it's really not worth it. Small gains can be had, as mentioned already, by k&n air filter and a decent exhaust but the bhp gain is tiny, a few bhp at best. After said mods my bike definately rides smoother and seems to pick up speed better but that may all be in my head and because it sounds nicer then it feels faster...
Spend your money on a few track days/tuition or on a bigger/faster bike.
Chris
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I used to do quite a bit of engine tuning in my younger years, swapping cams, porting heads, bigger carbs etc....... It rarely makes the bike "better" for the road, peaky power delivery, boggy at the lower end, stupidly high tickover that's lumpy as fook, nightmare to ride in traffic. Overheating, unreliability, the list goes on.
You'll gain a little power by cams/head tuning, but won't necessarily make the bike faster. The best tuning you can do, is get the suspension sorted, then some advanced training, or track tuition. THEN it'll be a lot quicker! You watch a good rider on a 400 hit the twisties, he don't need massive power, just big skill!
Yeah, that follows everything I used to read on the subject - conventionally high-tuned engines don't run very well low down - however I once rode a Z1R that had been heavily breathed on by John Carpenter (legendary Kawasaki tuner of Mistrals fame), and that thing was rapid! Also it didn't seem to be too bad low down, and idled ok.
I wonder if a decent carbs/exhaust route (maybe flat slides or just larger carbs with necessary mods elsewhere) might not be a better way to go?
I used to read loads on this tuning subject, but I was younger then and didn't really understand half of it, and I've probably forgotten most of the rest!
I think maybe high lift cams would also make the engine more peaky? (i.e. less torque/mid range but more top end revvy). That's about as far as my understanding goes, and I'd be interested to hear from someone who really knows what they are talking about!
A higher lift but equal duration cam gives engines more low end torque, as a rule it's the duration and overlap that give an engine more top end power.
A good explanation is here:
[url]http://www.streetracersonline.com/articles/camshafts/[/url] ([url]http://www.streetracersonline.com/articles/camshafts/[/url])
Something to note though, is with higher duration cams there's more valve overlap, which is why engines with cams like that run like shit at low rpm.
Although the rules on overlap on the site change with forced induction; you don't need as much because the turbo or supercharger is forcing the mixture in, so can minimise it at low rpm.
Haven't looked at your link yet, but will when I have more time. I read that high lift cams work better with forced induction. Is this just an obvious thing or are there particular reasons for that?
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Fit a FZS1000 engine :lol
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Fit a FZS1000 engine :lol
Then put a blower on it and some nitrous. Then, if you wind up in hospital cos it was all too much you can have a laugh with the nitrous still :lol
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
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fit a turbo....
Seriously though, without spending big money and then having to spend more upgrading suspension etc then it's really not worth it. Small gains can be had, as mentioned already, by k&n air filter and a decent exhaust but the bhp gain is tiny, a few bhp at best. After said mods my bike definately rides smoother and seems to pick up speed better but that may all be in my head and because it sounds nicer then it feels faster...
Spend your money on a few track days/tuition or on a bigger/faster bike.
Chris
I would only say that it would be worth it if you're really in to tuning and have mega bucks to throw at it! This tuning game is all very addictive. Once you change the cams, you'll find out, well this mod would make that one work better, and then, well, I need to do this mod to make that right, and then....! But if it's your only bike, then getting a faster bike in the first place is the best way to go. I agree with all the comments that the manufacturers spend a lot of money getting their bikes right, and few if anyone else can do as good a job as they do.
If sheer speed is your thing, get into drag racing. :) £££££££££££££!!
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
ohhhhhhhhhhh...at last.......the first sensible answer. ;)
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
ohhhhhhhhhhh...at last.......the first sensible answer. ;)
So are you saying you bought a slow gen 1 thou? :lol
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
ohhhhhhhhhhh...at last.......the first sensible answer. ;)
So are you saying you bought a slow gen 1 thou? :lol
oh dear another[size=78%] foccer who dos`nt know the rules.....i have explained this more than once[/size] :rolleyes [/size][size=78%],if you have a 600 then RED is the fastest colour .....the rules change with the 1000 due to the extra capacity...silver being the fastest for the thou.......as for all you yellow foccers....you have the slowest bikes as yellow is the colour of custard and i have never seen a serving of apple crumble and custard at speed..........simples [/size] ;)
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Haven't looked at your link yet, but will when I have more time. I read that high lift cams work better with forced induction. Is this just an obvious thing or are there particular reasons for that?
Less overlap between inlet and exhaust valves mate.
I know on a classic VW Beetle engine the angle between the inlet and exhaust lobes are 108 degrees, but with a turbo spec cam they're 112 to separate the timing a bit and reduce overlap.
They do loads of performance cams for those cars ranging from mild street with high lift but limited duration (particularly for campers), to all out race with loads of both.
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
ohhhhhhhhhhh...at last.......the first sensible answer. ;)
So are you saying you bought a slow gen 1 thou? :lol
oh dear another[size=78%] foccer who dos`nt know the rules.....i have explained this more than once[/size] :rolleyes [size=78%],if you have a 600 then RED is the fastest colour .....the rules change with the 1000 due to the extra capacity...silver being the fastest for the thou.......as for all you yellow foccers....you have the slowest bikes as yellow is the colour of custard and i have never seen a serving of apple crumble and custard at speed..........simples [/size] ;)
You've never seen me eat apple crumble and custard then - can I have another helping please... :lol
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
ohhhhhhhhhhh...at last.......the first sensible answer. ;)
So are you saying you bought a slow gen 1 thou? :lol
oh dear another[size=78%] foccer who dos`nt know the rules.....i have explained this more than once[/size] :rolleyes [size=78%],if you have a 600 then RED is the fastest colour .....the rules change with the 1000 due to the extra capacity...silver being the fastest for the thou.......as for all you yellow foccers....you have the slowest bikes as yellow is the colour of custard and i have never seen a serving of apple crumble and custard at speed..........simples [/size] ;)
You've never seen me eat apple crumble and custard then - can I have another helping please... :lol
:lol :lol :lol
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So, just to recap what we've learned here today:
If you want to go faster, ride a red bike (silver if it's a thou), whilst breathing in nitrous oxide and rapidly eating apple crumble and custard. Now why didn't I think of that? :lol
I hope this has all been of help to the op?
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Fit a FZS1000 engine :lol
Then put a blower on it and some nitrous. Then, if you wind up in hospital cos it was all too much you can have a laugh with the nitrous still :lol
:rollin :rollin :rollin
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A higher lift but equal duration cam gives engines more low end torque, as a rule it's the duration and overlap that give an engine more top end power.
I can't get my head around why this should be. Can you give a fairly simple explanation for a very simple person? :rolleyes :lol
Or do I need a degree in Physics/engineering? :book :eek
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Its all about valve opening timing. The more overlap you get, the more air/fuel you get in, and the bigger the bang (but only when the air speed onto/out of the cylinder reaches a higher velocity) hence higher revs.
Less overlap, but wider valve opening is making use of the slower air velocity at lower revs, producing more torque. Its a fine line, but its one that works. simplisticly complicated springs to mind!
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Simply put high lift cams just leave the intake valve open for slightly longer on each stroke to take in slightly more fuel air mix, which in turn gives more grunt but like already said its a fine line,
Afaik this can be put to better use and get better results on a fuel injected engine that can be mapped but that's neither here nor there
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Valves open for longer = longer duration, not high lift? Although I imagine lobes would be profiled for a bit of both.
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A higher lift but equal duration cam gives engines more low end torque, as a rule it's the duration and overlap that give an engine more top end power.
I can't get my head around why this should be. Can you give a fairly simple explanation for a very simple person? :rolleyes :lol
Or do I need a degree in Physics/engineering? :book :eek
This:
Its all about valve opening timing. The more overlap you get, the more air/fuel you get in, and the bigger the bang (but only when the air speed onto/out of the cylinder reaches a higher velocity) hence higher revs. Less overlap, but wider valve opening is making use of the slower air velocity at lower revs, producing more torque. Its a fine line, but its one that works. simplisticly complicated springs to mind!
At higher revs, the flow of burnt gas (which is a fluid and has mass & momentum like anything else) out of the exhaust port helps drag the fuel/air mixture in the intake port.
This is also true at lower revs, but the help it gives the incoming gas is fish piss in the sea. To get round this, a high lift, short duration cam allows more mixture in in the same amount of time as a standard cam. Obviously then the valves have to lift faster due to the steep ramp on the cam lobe, and this causes a problem at higher revs as mentioned earlier in the thread.
Simply put high lift cams just leave the intake valve open for slightly longer on each stroke to take in slightly more fuel air mix, which in turn gives more grunt but like already said its a fine line,
Afaik this can be put to better use and get better results on a fuel injected engine that can be mapped but that's neither here nor there
Not quite. A high lift cam opens the valve by a greater amount for the same duration, a higher duration cam opens the valve for more time. Its getting the right combination of the two for vehicle's purpose that's the trick. :D
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Valves open for longer = longer duration, not high lift? Although I imagine lobes would be profiled for a bit of both.
They are. Most standard road going engines are a compromise between torque, power and fuel economy.
If you want to go offroading for example, you'll need an engine cammed for low end torque with high lift and short duration, and a full-on drag race engine will need a high lift, long duration cam that simply will not tick over at anything less than 2k rpm! :D
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In other words for more power as a road bike, get a bigger engine! ::)
'conventional' tuning for the road just ain't worth the effort (and massive ammount of cash).
Now then, this turbo charging malarkey.............. 8)
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That waht I said, fit a FZS1000 engine :lol
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Hi All,
I think the above says it all. My bike is 100% standard and I was looking for some good ideas.
Ta Danny
Ok as no one yet has said it I will
On the right hand side of your handle bars the rubber grip turns - you need to sort of twist it torwards the ground and it makes you go faster, and if that is not enough speed for you then eat less pies.
Hope that helps
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my 600 seems quick enough ?? it stays with most bigger bikes accelerates quicker than most bigger bikes as you can get the power down
its quicker and more flickable than bigger stuff too in the twisty`s
ok so it tops out around 140-145mph so what theres not many places to ride these speeds and it not much fun
the funs to be had in the twistys and riding around power rangers on there super dooper rc08`s - gsxr1000` - fireplaces - arse 1`s - etc etc on a £1500 quid commuter bike really puts a grin in my chin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin
Paul
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and riding around power rangers on there super dooper rc08`s - gsxr1000` - fireplaces - arse 1`s
Those boys seem to think they are very cleaver going very fast in a straight line.
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my 600 seems quick enough ?? it stays with most bigger bikes accelerates quicker than most bigger bikes as you can get the power down
its quicker and more flickable than bigger stuff too in the twisty`s
ok so it tops out around 140-145mph so what theres not many places to ride these speeds and it not much fun
the funs to be had in the twistys and riding around power rangers on there super dooper rc08`s - gsxr1000` - fireplaces - arse 1`s - etc etc on a £1500 quid commuter bike really puts a grin in my chin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin
Paul
I agree, how often do you actually get to use the top speed anyway? But give me big dollops of mid range where I can actually have some fun with it :)
It'd be nice to have the handling of a lighter bike like the 600, but I grew up with big bikes and also kinda like to have to get a bit physical with them to get them around the corners. Of course if I could afford both... :\
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my 600 seems quick enough ?? it stays with most bigger bikes accelerates quicker than most bigger bikes as you can get the power down
its quicker and more flickable than bigger stuff too in the twisty`s
ok so it tops out around 140-145mph so what theres not many places to ride these speeds and it not much fun
the funs to be had in the twistys and riding around power rangers on there super dooper rc08`s - gsxr1000` - fireplaces - arse 1`s - etc etc on a £1500 quid commuter bike really puts a grin in my chin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin
Paul
Not gonna dey the fun to be had riding around power rangers, but any decent rider on a proper sports bike would completely oblierate a similar rider on an FZS, it's just the nature of the bikes! Even the 1000s weigh considerably less than the 600 Fazer does!
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
ohhhhhhhhhhh...at last.......the first sensible answer. ;)
So are you saying you bought a slow gen 1 thou? :lol
oh dear another[size=78%] foccer who dos`nt know the rules.....i have explained this more than once[/size] :rolleyes [/size][size=78%],if you have a 600 then RED is the fastest colour .....the rules change with the 1000 due to the extra capacity...silver being the fastest for the thou.......as for all you yellow foccers....you have the slowest bikes as yellow is the colour of custard and i have never seen a serving of apple crumble and custard at speed..........simples [/size] ;)
AHEM...........RED BIKES ONLY DO 98 MPH.
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
ohhhhhhhhhhh...at last.......the first sensible answer. ;)
So are you saying you bought a slow gen 1 thou? :lol
oh dear another[size=78%] foccer who dos`nt know the rules.....i have explained this more than once[/size] :rolleyes [size=78%],if you have a 600 then RED is the fastest colour .....the rules change with the 1000 due to the extra capacity...silver being the fastest for the thou.......as for all you yellow foccers....you have the slowest bikes as yellow is the colour of custard and i have never seen a serving of apple crumble and custard at speed..........simples [/size] ;)
AHEM...........RED BIKES ONLY DO 98 MPH.
In 1st :rollin
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but any decent rider on a proper sports bike would completely oblierate a similar rider on an FZS,
I can fully agree with that statement, but maybe that is the point " decent rider" many just seem to have the bike and brand new full suit but not the skills to ride it other than in a straight line
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
ohhhhhhhhhhh...at last.......the first sensible answer. ;)
So are you saying you bought a slow gen 1 thou? :lol
oh dear another[size=78%] foccer who dos`nt know the rules.....i have explained this more than once[/size] :rolleyes [size=78%],if you have a 600 then RED is the fastest colour .....the rules change with the 1000 due to the extra capacity...silver being the fastest for the thou.......as for all you yellow foccers....you have the slowest bikes as yellow is the colour of custard and i have never seen a serving of apple crumble and custard at speed..........simples [/size] ;)
AHEM...........RED BIKES ONLY DO 98 MPH.
In 1st :rollin
As I have stated elsewhere, the real truth is that colour don't mean s**t. You wanna go fast, you gotta have speed blocks! ;)
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Ur only sayin that cos u got a slow yellow one that farts
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Yellow, farting ones with speedblocks and decrepit, smashed up, dumb-ass riders like me on board, are obviously much faster than squirrel power, especially when the squirrel is deceased. In fact, hard to imagine what wouldn't be...
(have you tried a red squirrel? - they might be a bit quicker...).
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sex is an amazing feeling and really makes your brain buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
but screwing the arse outta your ride all day long makes you :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
even when you park it in the garage you giggle to yourself !!
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Yellow, farting ones with speedblocks and decrepit, smashed up, dumb-ass riders like me on board, are obviously much faster than squirrel power, especially when the squirrel is deceased. In fact, hard to imagine what wouldn't be...
(have you tried a red squirrel? - they might be a bit quicker...).
Game, set and match to Mr Crisp!! :lol :lol
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Hi All,
I think the above says it all. My bike is 100% standard and I was looking for some good ideas.
Ta Danny
Sell it and by a sports bike. That's the only way. Fazers run better IMO bog standard. They are fast enough for most normal people.
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There's always the nitrous ([url]http://www.noswizard.com/index.php/bike-nitrous-2/sb50-motorcycle-kit.html[/url]) option. :lol
Reminds me of photo seen on here recently... :)
([url]http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/LumpyXX/111021OopsFazer011a.jpg[/url])
and that was a standard motor
the fzs600 is an awesome machine and far better to tweak the chassis and get trained than try to tweak the engine. The best way to a faster bije is to get a bigger one but point to point it may not be quicker. I go big bike baiting on mine and it is superb fun. If I want to go really fast I use the blackbird. Nothing you can economically do to the 600 will replace capacity and power.
learn to ride what you have.
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Buy a red one, they are always faster than the others :lol
ohhhhhhhhhhh...at last.......the first sensible answer. ;)
So are you saying you bought a slow gen 1 thou? :lol
oh dear another[size=78%] foccer who dos`nt know the rules.....i have explained this more than once[/size] :rolleyes [size=78%],if you have a 600 then RED is the fastest colour .....the rules change with the 1000 due to the extra capacity...silver being the fastest for the thou.......as for all you yellow foccers....you have the slowest bikes as yellow is the colour of custard and i have never seen a serving of apple crumble and custard at speed..........simples [/size] ;)
AHEM...........RED BIKES ONLY DO 98 MPH.
In 1st :rollin
ha ha ha great reply mark :lol ...you after my job ;)