old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Dead Eye on 28 March 2013, 01:09:59 pm
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So as most of you know, my previous Fazer sort of burnt to the ground. I am however thinking of bringing it back to life but before I start on anything I need to make sure that it is actually feasible.
Now the fire got hot enough to render the rear wheel complete mush so with that in mind, how is the swing arm and engine going to have faired? Is it possible for me to salvage the engine and rebuild it, or is it simply destroyed? I would love for it to be ok, as I can potter about in my newly finished garage (today!!) and methodically dismantle and repair the old engine in my sweet time as I have a running Fazer to ride despite its many small issues...
The work required doesn't bother me and I think I have the tools and knowledge to under-take the job so that's not an issue either.
So without further babbling, are there any technical foccers out there who can lend some advice?
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Yay! Glad the garage is finished mate! Goodluck with the rebuild. 8) keep us posted!
Chris
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Well, all being well, I may end up starting a build thread and show the process from start to finish :)
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Well, all being well, I may end up starting a build thread and show the process from start to finish :)
That'd be great, we may well have a projects section soon too :D
Chris
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Well, all being well, I may end up starting a build thread and show the process from start to finish :)
:thumbup Lots of photos please :)
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Well as a basic metallurgic principle, anytime steels or alloys are heated (notably more than in day-to-day temperature changes) their strength qualities do change. How much is hard to say in this case. An idea of how much heat it has been exposed to can be found from heat coloring of the parts. For example if they have been colored bluish, it can suggest very high temperatures that may weaken alloys significantly.
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If the fire was hot enough to soften the alloy of the rear wheel then I would definitely look for a new swing arm.
The engine, on the other hand, looks from the photos to have been far enough away from the most intense part of the fire to have survived. It is basically one big conductive lump, even if the sprocket and clutch covers have been heat damaged, the rest should be useable. Rubber parts such as gear shift and driveshaft seals may need replacing of course, but the main bulk of the motor stands a very good chance of being OK.
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These were my thoughts, but thought I'd would check first to see if there were any resident metallurgists hanging around ^^
Obviously parts that need to be replaced will be. I think the frame can be salvaged - though the grab rail literally disintegrated...
The forks will need a very good service but should also be fine so I think the majority of it should be ok. It's going to take a while mostly from a financial perspective in sourcing new replacement parts :)
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Will be an awesome project though! Shame it's come around this way but it'll be great to tinker away with it all. Got any outlandish plans for it or going to try and stick it back to standard/standard+?
The obvious road of streetfightering it/making it a naked bike would save having to source/pay for a fairing etc and would let you put your own unique twist to the fazer theme, possibly cheaper in some aspects although it all depends what you upgrade/replace/have custom made.
Chris
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I may have it without fairings initially, but I will aim to get it back to almost stock bar the standard sort of mods we've all come to know and love ^^
First things first is making sure I have a frame, engine and wheels really :P
The worst bit is going to electronics. The wiring is completely fubar and I had to severe large chunks of wire when attempting to move it - so I will definitely be back for electronics help! Thankfully I have a second bike to follow if I get lost. Its a huge project and probably the largest I've considered undertaking, but being able to do it at my leisure, at home, whilst having another bike on the road does take the pressure off.
I've been wanting to change the cambelts and tensioner on my car, I have all the parts but I just haven't gotten around to it as I don't have another car whilst mine is off the road... I used to but that's a whole other story :P
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Be a complete nutjob and shoehorn the engine in to a Caterham seven replica, and stuff a turbo or two on it too ;-)
Is it worth spending that much time on a bike/engine that's gonna be worth £1k or so ?
Just offering an alternative perspective and more options.
Have fun and definitely do some pics. I'd love to see the burn out pixs too.
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I'm not doing it for money, I'm doing it for me - both experience and the fun or it :D
I'll be doing nearly everything myself and hopefully I won't need to spend huge amounts but over the long term if I do sell the bike (very unlikely) I'd be lucky if I broke even on it and that's before you take in to account everything I spent before this all happened :P
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You could swap it with bozboz. Its cleaner than his.
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Just trying to add a file and I is failing baddly
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What is the file?
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A computer file is a block of arbitrary information, or resource for storing information, which is available to a computer program and is usually based on some kind of durable storage. A file is durable in the sense that it remains available for programs to use after the current program has finished. Computer files can be considered as the modern counterpart of paper documents which traditionally are kept in offices' and libraries' files, and this is the source of the term. A group of files used by the same program can be packed into one archive file.mate. ;-)
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If I had asked "what is a file" then your response would be appropriate... I am well aware of what a file is - I was more interested in the file contents :p
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What is the file?
Its a youtube clip that is a fazer rebuild Yamaha FZS600 engine assembly and test drive after valve lapping (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NtpXhN7IQg#ws)
I Just figured it out
Ta Fellas
Daz
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Great video 8)
I expect a similar one from you Deadeye ;)
Chris
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Would like to know who this guy is. He says it took him 3 evenings to put it all back together, I is impressd.
Daz
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File content for 600 riders
On most modern operating systems, files are organized into one-dimensional arrays of bytes. Like ur brain odo. Hehe. The format of a file is defined by its content since a file is solely a container for data, although, on some platforms, like the fzs6,the format is usually indicated by its filename extension, ie retarded.nob, specifying the rules for how the bytes must be organized and interpreted meaningfully.u nob For example, the bytes of a plain text file (.txt in Windows) are associated with either ASCII or UTF-8 characters, or USR-1 ( u shit rider number-1) while the bytes of image, video, and audio files are interpreted otherwise. Most file types also allocate a few bytes for metadata, which allows a file to carry some basic 600 fzs information about itself.
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2-1 hehe
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What is the file?
Its a youtube clip that is a fazer rebuild Yamaha FZS600 engine assembly and test drive after valve lapping ([url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NtpXhN7IQg#ws[/url])
I Just figured it out
Ta Fellas
Daz
Awesome find, I'll see what I can do when I get round to doing mine.
I need to get some rags / sheets to line the garage floor a bit and may even buy a cheap wooden table to do some of the work. First things first is some half decent weather so that I don't freeze and some spare time and money :p
If its not too bad tomorrow I may start on removing the engine from the frame. Most of the fiddly stuff has been done since the carbs were removed already which is something else I will need to buy
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What is the file?
Its a youtube clip that is a fazer rebuild Yamaha FZS600 engine assembly and test drive after valve lapping ([url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NtpXhN7IQg#ws[/url])
I Just figured it out
Ta Fellas
Daz
Omfg. He is a goatee wearing god. I've liked his youtube video to show I respect his facial hair..... He seems pretty handy with an engine too.
God only knows what he was faffing with most of the time though.
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Well I was lucky enough to be graced with some sun today so figured I'd make a start :)
(http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130329_132146.jpg)
The wheels are missing and so is the centre stand along with several other bits so its been propped up on bricks for the past month at least.
Since the carbs were already off (as this was the job before the fire) it made the work load relatively light. The downside was the sheer amount of plastic and rubber than had melted and fused to things all over the place. Amazingly the K&N filter that was in the bike doesn't look in too bad nick, but its sort of stuck in half of the airbox so I can't get it out!
Naturally something had to go wrong and the bricks weren't exactly what I would call sturdy so this happened...
(http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130329_150436.jpg)
... but thankfully I think this may have been a blessing in disguise. With the bike on its side it meant I could manoeuvre the frame around the engine which is lighter and easier to move. I had also removed one of the forks (removed both in the end) and the handle bars, the remains of the airbox, the bar that holds the coils and fuel pump / filter etc
So after some fiddling I managed to get the frame and engine separated
(http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130329_151427.jpg)
(http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130329_151439.jpg)
At this point, believe it or not, it started snowing... so I called it a day and packed everything away and moved the frame / engine and bits in to the garage :)
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Omfg. It's worse than I thought.
Given the heat/rust I certainly wouldn't be mad keen on using much of the remainder :'(
I take it that it's classified as a write off :eek
Good luck with that.
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Well, I'm sure it would have been classified as a write-off if the insurance company had actually been told what happened... :rolleyes
And the rust is only on the surface due to being left outside, a bit of sandpaper and a lick of paint it the frame should look good as new ^^
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Wow, you're in the long haul with this project. If I lived closer, I'd def like to help out, just as a learning experience.
All that wiring and cleaning will be a helluva job. The frame and swingarm do look pretty badly charred. :\
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Wow, that is a mess. Hope you can at least salvage some of it even if you don't restore it.
All the best with it,
Chris
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Oh yeah its definitely a long term project. Worst case scenario I end up with a 24k refurbished engine to replace my existing 85k engine when it finally goes kaput. I'll keep you all updated as I go along and make progress, will probably focus on the block first and strip it completely. I will likely replace the timing chain and go over all the valves and selector forks in the gearbox plus anything else I think of along the way. Ideally it will be back to showroom condition and in excellent health :)
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I don't understand?
Surely it will cost more to fix than buying a bike would? Buying a cat d write off, a fazer from a scrappy or whatever must be cheaper than buying the parts and the time you'll spend on it and if you did that the scrapper would be easier to get going than this one.
I guess I'm just a proper lazy ass.
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A good opportunity to galvanise a frame or go for a bare lacquer look :D
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You are probably right in terms of cost - certainly for restoring the entire bike. But my money will reflect exactly what I am able to do. At the end of the day, this is a hobby and plenty of people stuff lots more money into seemingly crazy things by comparison for no return other than entertainment. At the end of this, I get a bike :D
If I end up just restoring the engine to replace my existing one then the costs are a lot lower I think than buying a new engine.
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A very well made point Deadeye. You'll have a bike that you'll literally know inside out when you're done. 8)
Chris
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It's like batman, only different.
"some men just want to watch the world burn"
Aka
"some men just want to fix a burnt out bike"
;)
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Deadeye I is lost for words. Go for it mate and enjoy.
Daz
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It's like batman, only different.
"some men just want to watch the world burn"
Aka
"some men just want to fix a burnt out bike"
;)
Haha, I love it!
Thanks to you all for your support, I will no doubt be needing it as this project progresses as well as some advice and knowledge I imagine ^^
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Good luck with the rebuild, but jesus christ, what caused the fire in the first place?
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The short version is an electrical fire in a garage whilst doing maintenance...
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Got out in to the garage again today to do some fettling. Got the cams out and the head off, looking to remove the block next then see if I can get in to the gearbox. One of the main reasons for removing the head is that during my maintenance on it, I removed one of the spark plugs apparently and due to the fire and being left outside, huge amounts of crap managed to fall inside the chamber. Now that the head is off I can give it a proper cleaning out :)
Here are some photos for those who are interested :)
(http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130330_142025.jpg)
(http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130330_143547.jpg)
(http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130330_144845.jpg)
(http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130330_155505.jpg)
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Got out in to the garage again today to do some fettling. Got the cams out and the head off, looking to remove the block next then see if I can get in to the gearbox. One of the main reasons for removing the head is that during my maintenance on it, I removed one of the spark plugs apparently and due to the fire and being left outside, huge amounts of crap managed to fall inside the chamber. Now that the head is off I can give it a proper cleaning out :)
Here are some photos for those who are interested :)
([url]http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130330_142025.jpg[/url])
([url]http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130330_143547.jpg[/url])
([url]http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130330_144845.jpg[/url])
([url]http://www.imperial-empire-se.com/images/foc-u/20130330_155505.jpg[/url])
Thanks for the pics. That engine looks in great shape. I guess they are designed to run at high temperatures
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Yeah, the insides don't appear to be too bad bar cylinder 1
This engine has only done 24k which isn't too high in the grand scheme of things and it was running very well before. My current 85k engine is quite rough, especially in the lower rev range despite the carbs being balanced recently.
I'll keep on taking photos as I go as it should help me remember how to put everything back as well haha
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Looking good man!
Keep the photos coming, very interesting already. Good to see how it's all put together!
Chris
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I is surprised on how clean it looks inside. Keep the faith.
Daz :thumbup
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Next time you need to remember to take it apart in the kitchen on one of the best bed sheets :evil :lol
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Haha, nah I just bought some cheap dust sheets to throw down on the garage floor to protect it against spillages etc - there's a cotton twill one on top and a then a cotton / polythene one underneath which is water proof so it won't soak through :)
After all, this is still a rented property and I need to get round to de-greasing the garden patio before our next inspection... woops...
Edit: Oh btw, are the images a half decent size for everyone? I scale them down before hand from the originals but if larger versions are better than that can certainly be done :)
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Pic size good. My u have been a busy bunny. No more dodgy chargers now ya roof is on hehe
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Pics are a good size mate, 8)
Chris
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good luck dead-eye and if theres anything we can do to help you know where we are :)
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Much appreciated, thank you :)
So far so good, though ideally i could do with a proper copy of the Haynes manual instead of a digital one, but that's money I don't have right now ;p
The most interesting bit is going to be dealing with the valves potentially as quickly skimming the Haynes it said that special tools are required. Though at the moment I don't think I'll have to remove them at least
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You could stick a wanted add up in the classifieds section asking for a haynes manual because of the massive job you're undertaking. Would be a good idea to have one. I know it isn't perfect but it's handy to have none the less.
Sure someone will have a copy but has sold on their bike and got something else and they might just charge you postage for it.
Chris
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Time for the asking for help part :D
The valves definitely need a good clean all round which requires removing them. This means acquiring a valve spring compressor kit but these go from £10 to £150 so why such a huge difference in price range? I usually like to buy quality, but at £80-£150 for the brands I know its pretty steep for a very specialised piece of kit that I'm not likely to use often...
Also, any advice on the actual procedure is always welcome ;)
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Time for the asking for help part :D
The valves definitely need a good clean all round which requires removing them. This means acquiring a valve spring compressor kit but these go from £10 to £150 so why such a huge difference in price range? I usually like to buy quality, but at £80-£150 for the brands I know its pretty steep for a very specialised piece of kit that I'm not likely to use often...
Also, any advice on the actual procedure is always welcome ;)
this is well within your capabilities DEADEYE and well worth doing,did my 600 last year,real old fashoned mechanics that you will enjoy doing,i have the tool for the job and will try to post pictures later when all the relatives have gone ;)
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Awesome, thanks red :)
Did you go for one of the expensive kits or would a cheap one do fine? Typically more expensive items are better quality, but this is subject to the type of tool. A cheap hammer is typically going to the same job just as well as an expensive one, but cheap sockets will chew up bolts compared to good fitting, expensive and better quality ones :P
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Maybee if paul has the tooling he could bring it next week and lend.
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ive had the tooling years and used it on allsorts mainly cars cant see it being expensive ,only two guests left today so should have time for pictures and things.............if it turns out expensive could possibly lend you mine on the april meet and return on the may meet.....will post later :)
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I look forward to it :)
So what exactly determines the price difference between say these two;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-5-in-1-10PCs-Valve-Spring-Compressor-Tool-Kit-Set-For-Cars-Motorcycles-Bikes-/120910732712?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c26d75da8 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-5-in-1-10PCs-Valve-Spring-Compressor-Tool-Kit-Set-For-Cars-Motorcycles-Bikes-/120910732712?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c26d75da8)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-5258-Valve-Spring-Compressor-and-Stem-Seal-Installer-Tool-Kit-/160768943094?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item256e9363f6 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-5258-Valve-Spring-Compressor-and-Stem-Seal-Installer-Tool-Kit-/160768943094?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item256e9363f6)
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The second one is more specialised in that it enables the valve springs and seals to be changed without removing the head.
The first one is all you need.
Keep up the good work with photo's etc and good luck.
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I look forward to it :)
So what exactly determines the price difference between say these two;
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-5-in-1-10PCs-Valve-Spring-Compressor-Tool-Kit-Set-For-Cars-Motorcycles-Bikes-/120910732712?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c26d75da8[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-5-in-1-10PCs-Valve-Spring-Compressor-Tool-Kit-Set-For-Cars-Motorcycles-Bikes-/120910732712?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c26d75da8[/url])
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-5258-Valve-Spring-Compressor-and-Stem-Seal-Installer-Tool-Kit-/160768943094?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item256e9363f6[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-5258-Valve-Spring-Compressor-and-Stem-Seal-Installer-Tool-Kit-/160768943094?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item256e9363f6[/url])
ah.........just been looking at those myself,the one in the red case is the one i would go for,different adaptors to suit a wide range of engines both ohv and ohc and a very good price
i have two compressors one for ohv the other ohc,i modified the ohc one to work on the fazer,it worked well :) ,seen them on ebay or £11/12 +del but not as good buy as multi use one :)
the laser tool is for removing the valve spring without removing the head for replacement of valve stem oil seal,it uses an adaptor which fits in place of the spark plug and is then attached to a compressed air supply which holds the valve shut with enough pressure to compress the spring ,remove the colets.spring retainer and spring and then the oil seal.
all very clever and a great time saver but i think for garage use only....it makes sense for the home mechanic to remove the valve at same time and re-grind them...ie ,a proper job :D
[size=78%] i have some pictures of the tools but for some reason i cant post pictures on my ageing pc so will try on my sons laptop later on [/size] ;)
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sorry LIMAX2 posted at same time ,bit long winded my reply :\ but same answer :)
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Ah, that makes a bit more sense :P
I have just bought one of those cheaper kits as the valves really do need a clean... lots of crap has fallen in to the intake especially
What exactly is required for grinding the valves? I was potentially just going to remove them, tidy them up, then replace
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Grinding the valves in is really just a case of cleaning up the seating faces to get a perfect seal. All you need is a small tin of grinding paste, sometimes comes with both fine and course paste, and a valve grinding tool which is a piece of round wood with a rubber sucker on the end. You will probably only need to use the fine paste. Make sure you clean it all off after and don't get it anywhere else. You should end up with a nice smooth matt finish all round the valve and seating faces.
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well worded LIMAX2.......i`ll post some pictures as soon as i prise the laptop from my sons hands :rolleyes
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Further thoughts on the valves. The exhaust valves on the 600 are only 21mm dia so the sucker on the stick needs to be no bigger than about 19mm dia. Plenty on e-bay but any half decent car accessary shop will have the tool and paste for less than the postage cost on e-bay. Also only use the fine paste and don't over do it, just enough to see a smooth even surface. Maybe 10-30 seconds rather than minutes of lapping. In theory it can close up the valve clearance, but you shouldn't be removing a measurable amount of metal anyway.
There is an opinion that it's best to leave them alone if they seal and look o.k., but I faviour a quick fine lapping if the heads off.
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two pictures to show the tooling and the grinding paste
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whoops.......that was meant to be two different pictures :o second one a close up of the grinding paste but i think you can make out the wording on it.......two grades in one tin,course one end fine the other,i used the compressor on the left which is for ohc engines,i ground down the top clamp to fit inside the head.it worked well.the sucker stick has two sizes of sucker and you can just about get away with the smaller one.
LIMAX2, sounds like you`ve done this job a few times before ;)
looking through my "stuttering" thread i came across some before and after pictures of my head....page 4,reply 418 + 490.. :D
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Thanks limax2 and red :)
I actually bought some of the Chemito stuff and the sucker from eBay earlier today as it wasn't overly expensive. Some of the valves look a little stuck at the moment and I wouldn't be surprised if they need a little bit of grinding. Through experience I know to take things easy instead of using brute force all the time :P
I'll keep you informed with some photos as well ^^ Need to sand back and re-spray the external of the head as well as the the rest of the block :P
I reckon the hardest part will be dealing with the timings when re-assembling and I'm leaning towards replacing the cam chain since I have the engine in so many pieces already, but they aren't cheap!
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LIMAX2, sounds like you`ve done this job a few times before ;)
Plenty of times on BSA's, Triumph's and Norton's but as it happens not on my Fazer. It's so reliable all I can do is add bits on and polish it. :D .
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sounds like you have everything on order now :) .....a top tip that might help,before you use the valve compressor,find a socket slightly smaller than the valve spring , position on top of the spring and bounce a hammer off it.not hard just enough to loosen the spring on the seat,you can then compress the spring smoothly without any jolts and risk loosing the collets ;)
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Hopefully it will all make more sense as I get round to it - I've read the procedure in the Haynes several times but I'm still learning about some of the more interesting parts of an engines internals :P Here's to hoping I don't break anything ;)
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Well I finally had some free time to get out and do some more fettling with the engine. On today's agenda was removing all of the valves and trying to clean them up a bit. Needless to say but a picture shows a thousand words - and these pictures show the state of the intake ports and the poor valves...
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Engine Rebuild |
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Engine Rebuild |
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Engine Rebuild |
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Engine Rebuild |
I've given the head a good clean out and the ports are looking much tidier. However, does anyone have any advice on what to use to clean the valves? A lot of the crap on them is quite caked on - the carbs were off during the fire so everything just poured into the intake ports and down on to the valves :(
I tried looking to see if new valves can be purchased - doesn't look like it as they weren't even on the AJ Sutton website. I guess ideally they shouldn't be replaced, it was just a precautionary measure to check. Need to scrape off all the crap off the head and respray it which might be done reasonably soon.
Also, is there any sort of cleaner that I should avoid when dealing with the cylinders to prevent damaging the cylinder wall? Need to buy piston rings really, but they are quite expensive :(
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to clean the valves i scrape off the worse with a stanley knifeblade and then put it in my drill and use a scotch bright pad or if really bad a wire brush....works a treat......while you have them out check to see if there straight by rolling the stem on a piece of glass or simular ;)
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This is great suff guys.would love to have the know how to do something like this.Keep up the good work.
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I got stopped in my tracks for not having a lapping tool of the correct size. Finally got one so should be ready to grind the valves and get them all sorted. I cleaned up the intake and exhaust ports but there is still a bit of crap in the intake ones so I'm thinking a bit of fine wet & dry will do the trick :)
After that, it will be time to move down the engine and clean up the cylinder block. It's in mostly good condition, so I don't expect it will take long. After that, its on to the pistons. I'm really uncertain as to whether to replace the piston rings or not. On the one hand, it would make sense to do them whilst it's all apart, but on the other, they are insanely expensive at £40-50 a piston :(