Post by: Ebme Geek on 21 March 2013, 11:16:02 am
Bit of help from my son, and we fed through the new chain attached to the old with copper wire. I borrowed a pro-motion style tool to split the chains, but it is designed for riveting hollow pins unlike the joining link I had ;) :rolleyes :'( , so my son held the chain against a block hammer and I used a flat ended punch at an angle and small hammer to peen over the pins, sorry no picture, all four hands were being used and a fair bit of concentration ! Worked a treat, measured up with a digital calliper, and happy with result :D
Two new shims in, cam shafts back in and clamped down. Valve clearances checked, and cover back on
Will have it going again soon, few more small jobs to do while it's in bits :rolleyes but gettin there :)
Post by: His Dudeness on 21 March 2013, 11:23:13 am
would be interesting to see where the tensioner is now
Post by: Ebme Geek on 21 March 2013, 11:28:32 am
Post by: Chris on 21 March 2013, 12:04:36 pm
Chris
Post by: CharlieDee on 21 March 2013, 06:10:48 pm
Post by: simonm on 21 March 2013, 06:50:27 pm
Dismantling is fine, it's the reassembling that always worries me, timing, torques. The whole thing is just scary.
Post by: packie on 21 March 2013, 11:41:30 pm
Post by: Jacko on 22 March 2013, 01:32:32 pm
I did it on a bench, much easier. Simonm its not that bad, take time
and follow the book.
Post by: Ebme Geek on 22 March 2013, 05:26:57 pm
Simonm : I often find that reassembling can be easier than dismantling, at least you know by then how it comes apart :lol
I was aprehensive about riveting the chain, but with a bit of care it turned out quite simple, using a punch was definately a good move rather than just two hammers
Most fidely bit so far was getting the throttle cables off the carbs, see how it goes putting them back on, I might release them at the top to give more core at the bottom.
But I am putting new brushes in the starter before I get to the cables
Thanks to others for comments
Post by: Ebme Geek on 27 March 2013, 02:03:01 pm
Removed, stripped, found brushes not too badly worn but one of them sticky, probably a clean up would sort it but I had the new plate :rolleyes , gave everything a clean fitted new plate, used new lip seal & o-rings and put back together with a bit of silicone grease. Did not use new bushes, the rear one felt fine ( :lol ), and the one at the drive end is a roller bearing on mine.
Back on motor :D , time for a rum'n'coke and crash out :z
Post by: simonm on 27 March 2013, 06:22:46 pm
Post by: Ebme Geek on 03 April 2013, 07:32:03 pm
Post by: Buzz on 04 April 2013, 10:18:25 am
1) Did you dremel both sides of the nut?
2) Did you damage the threads on the screw underneath at all? I'd worry about getting those SS nuts back on after taking a gouge of of the thread.
3) Was a good whack with the chisel in the gap enough to split the nut and remaining thread?
I guess you could've used the Dremel to get through the flange on either side then use a nut splitter?
Sounds like the way I'm going to go anyway, looks like a lot more work but much safer than snapping studs...something which I'm guaranteed to do!
Post by: Ebme Geek on 04 April 2013, 02:10:12 pm
I found dont cut to mad keep lifting the wheel and you start to see the threads appear and you can still attack the bits you are not there on yet.
Choose where you cut down the nut so that you can get a chisel in with room for a hammer at an angle so that you are both splitting the nut and driving it undone at the same time 45˚ sort of thing, I found as the last bit cracks they start to undo easily, once you have 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn on them they come off with a socket and extension by hand (no ratchet)
Have the chisel reasonable sharp, not a razer but not round ended either, just enough so it grips in the metal.
I did catch a couple, thread damage was minimal with no burs, so quick swipe with brass wire brush and ss nuts went on with no problem. :D
Post by: Ebme Geek on 04 April 2013, 05:20:11 pm
Last night back out, had to warm the engine up with a fan heater, ( really need new garage door, one that I can close!! ) before I could start spraying it black again. In between coats gave the carbs a good external clean up and lubed movey bits ready to go back on bike. Third coat done, prep to crash out with a rum :lol .... :z
Sh1t that shed get cold but, Fealing Like I am getting there now, should be running soon :) , I am getting desperate,
missing the bike.
Post by: limax2 on 04 April 2013, 07:22:15 pm
Post by: Ebme Geek on 09 April 2013, 11:41:55 am
Well, I went out to the bike on saturday to get the carbs back on, and spotted the corrosion I had forgotten on the cast pipe spigot of the water pump, looked like a point for leakage in the near future, so get it sorted now! Pipes off, took the steel pipe next to it off to give better access, clean up the spigot, clean the inside of the rubber hose, smear of silicone grease on both, pipe back on. Dam! I should have given it some paint, oh well degrease the exposed bit and give it some. Never know the sealing part might last longer that way rather than bubbling under the paint. ;) . Could not help myself cleaned and sprayed the steal pipe aswell.
Back to the carbs, I thought while I am at it I will lube the choke and throttle cables, that took me to the handle bars and I remembered the way the switches swivel when you use the choke or hit the starter really hacks me off. I don't know what the history of the bars is, but the plastic lugs in both switch assemblies had either been sheared off or removed, and the holes in the bars did not line up. On the right hand side I cut a bit of stud and glued it into an existing hole in the handlebar, and filed a notch in the side of the switch assy. On the left where the lug had been I put a self tapping screw, drilled a new hole in the handlebar. Sounds simple enough but both sides took stupid amount of time. Greased up the choke cable with one of those clamp on tools and can of chain lube, then got that side back together.
Back to the carbs again ! :rolleyes
Twist throttle split apart, cables greased. Offer carbs up attach cores of cables. Carbs did not want to go in as easy as they came out, so put them into the airbox rubbers first and them a smear of silicone grease helped to get them into their rubbers to the head. Throttle re-assembled, cables adjusted. Then the bird phoned, that was it I was off, wasn't going to ride the bike this weekend, but ....... :lol
Post by: Ebme Geek on 11 April 2013, 03:25:49 pm
Tighten carb & air box clamps + bracket, fit pain in butt rubber cover and tank bracket,
water deflector under tank,
radiator, harness junction box, thermostat housing, coils and pump assy,
fill up coolant,
Still had clutch cable detached at top from doing switches, so decided to grease it now rather than get forgotten for eternity. All went well until I pushed sheath back and it came un-hooked at the bottom :rolleyes , so sprocket cover off to sort, dropped peg off cleaned & greased gear linkage including main pivot,
3am by then, but I was determined I was going to have it running, grabbed the fuel tank & put it on backwards over the seat area on a good bed of rags.
Primed up the fuel, the pump only runs for something like 5 secs then stops without the engine running, so turned the ignition off and then back on again untill its clicks slowed down and stoped, carbs full now.
Fired up easy but noticed a coolant leak, one of the hose clamps had gone tight on it's thread but not clamping tight enough on the pipe, tried bit of lube and tighten it, oh-er, but no play ;) , so found another clip, sorted.
Fired it up again no probs, kept an eye on coolant level, bit of smoke from the plus-gas I had used on the exhausts, well quite a lot actually :o
But Happy at that :D . So rum 'n' coke time and then crash out :z work in the morning
Post by: packie on 11 April 2013, 03:37:21 pm
I see that the gear shift lever and alloy bit are a bit corroded. Will you be trying to bring them back to their former glory?? Your spanking clean engine might force you into it! :D
Post by: dBfazer600 on 11 April 2013, 04:31:32 pm
Keep the faith you'll soon be on the road :thumbup
Daz
Post by: Ebme Geek on 11 April 2013, 04:35:01 pm
At the moment I am just desperate to get it back on the roads, did think about spraying the steal bits black, but will look naf when it rubs through from boot. :\ More thought needed.
Engine's not that spanking to be honest, only sorted the worst of it and still spotting bits I missed, but is a big improvement. Bike will never be as clean as all the others on here, but I will carry on doing bits (occasionaly :o )
Do Like your half rat thinking for maintenance / appearance, but don't know if I want to go that far since mine is a black bike I think it works with the blue & white.
Cheers Daz for the comment aswell
Post by: simonm on 11 April 2013, 05:34:29 pm
If I learned anything from your exploits....it's that you seem to use Rum and Coke a lot!! :eekRum and coke. Drink of the gods.... If there were any. As it is it's just a lovely beverage :)
I see that the gear shift lever and alloy bit are a bit corroded. Will you be trying to bring them back to their former glory?? Your spanking clean engine might force you into it! :D
Post by: packie on 12 April 2013, 09:52:51 am
Do Like your half rat thinking for maintenance / appearance, but don't know if I want to go that far since mine is a black bike I think it works with the blue & white.
Well just to give you an update....I did the all the levers and footplates and they are holding up well after 2 weeks....no a mark and I expect it to be that way for a long time. I did my brake and clutch lever over 8 weeks ago and they are holding up after constant pulling and rubbing daily. The plus factor is that it only takes one quick blast of the tin of spray to restore any part of the bike. I rather that than the rusty and corroded alloy look. I think your bike will work as well being black.
Why don't you do the gear lever and footplate as a trial for a while. If you don't like it, you can always lash on a bit of Nitromors and get your rust back!! :lol
Post by: Ebme Geek on 12 April 2013, 01:31:36 pm
Had borrowed a Carbtune from my brother, glad I have a long screw driver to get down onto the adjustment screws, not too bad once you have sussed where to hold a torch and where to get the screwdriver down through.
Thought I had got there, bang on, then curiosity hit about accuracy :rolleyes , so I swapped some of the pipes over, :eek could not believe my eyes - all over the shop, gave it a few blips, tried different revs, unswapped - reswaped, oh sh1t. Spent ages trying to set up a half way house, then swap 2 back and check for equal differences back the other way, must have been going in right direction I had to keep tweaking the idle down, but that got confusing aswell. I am sort of happy where I ended up ;) , but want to do some checks on those gauges and maybe come back to this :\ .
I am quite good at getting onto those screws now :rollin .
And I now know the fan works - first time I have had it come on, helped to warm the garage, would have been better on one of the cold nights :rolleyes .
TPS checked just over 5000, tweaked then realized did not need to, it's either down, 5100, or up; it is not a linear adjustment through the range, as I could get it twitching low to 5100 without touching it and similarly on the high side of being right. ;)
Last couple of bits back onto the bike fairing, mirrors, side panels
turn the tank round & put the seat on
The result of this and another late night . . . . I rode it to work this morning.
But even better than that . . . . I get to ride away from work later - - - RESULT :D :lol :D
Hi Packie
cheers for feedback, convinced me , I will spray the gear linkage, but I might take some autosol to the footplate even though thats against my cleaning policy !!! other side brake pedal likewise, maybe some other bits ???
Have been thinking for some time I will spray the lower forks when I have the wheel off for a tyre in the future, but can't decide colour, White (got black wheels, but they need cleening up aswell), blue, black-gloss, satin maybe (less fussy on prep) with reflective strips to improve side on night visibility ?????
Post by: dBfazer600 on 12 April 2013, 07:56:19 pm
Enjoy your ride and keep us updated of any other work you do
Gets some pics up of her dressed
Daz
Post by: His Dudeness on 22 July 2013, 07:41:54 pm
Post by: Ebme Geek on 24 July 2013, 12:17:11 pm
I used a DID chain and rivet link which I got from Wemoto, it came as an endless one, so I split it and then used the new link.
But just checking I see they are only listing the Tourmax option now. :\
Don't know who Tourmax are or if they are any good ??
The other site I looked at was AJ Sutton
http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/partImage.asp?GPN=945914713000&uid=0 (http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/partImage.asp?GPN=945914713000&uid=0)
Seems a good price for the yam one, but it is endless and no joining link option, I find it strange they offer two alternatives, endless & open, and more expensive
Steve
Post by: His Dudeness on 24 July 2013, 05:51:22 pm
Post by: Dead Eye on 24 July 2013, 10:39:50 pm
Post by: His Dudeness on 25 July 2013, 05:49:53 pm
Out of interest, why does it -have- to be a DID chain?
Well it's a rather important part so I'd like to go for a brand that I've used before and trust.
Post by: Dead Eye on 26 July 2013, 10:17:55 am
Post by: Dcock on 27 July 2013, 07:25:26 pm
Post by: Ebme Geek on 29 July 2013, 07:35:42 pm
It would be virtually impossible to keep the cams in sync with the crank if you rotate the crank, hence risk your valves. However I was left with the impression that with tensioner and front chain guide removed or at least lifted it may be possible to sag and walk - sag and walk the chain around the crank sprocket if you get what I mean. If you try this put the engine at TDC first so you can see nothing moves. I changed some shims while I was there, so made no odds to me.
Cams out and back in is easy enough, just MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH CAM CAP IS WHICH as they are machined on the head and must be in original locations, and dont forget to put engine at top dead centre before you put them back in. ;)
I used a thickness of copper wire that would go through the holes twice, but a thicker one once would be fine. I used a couple of the inner plates that came out from the removed link to keep the spacing right, twisted the ends together and laid them flat to the side of the chain.
My nipper kept light tension on the old coming out and the new going in so it did not sag into a mess at the bottom of the tunnel, and I turned the engine over with a socket, fed through very easy no problem. Then tied ends up and got loads of rags around so nothing could get dropped down there. Using a punch when doing the riveting really gives a lot more control than just two hammers.
Hope that goes towards helping :)
Steve
Post by: Ebme Geek on 29 July 2013, 07:51:13 pm
I threaded it through the hole at the end of the chain with the inner plates in place.
Then with the same piece through the other end of the chain attaching the chain onto the other end of the link plates.
Got most of the slack out of the wire then passed it around a second time before twisting the ends together.