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Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: FuZzBoM on 17 March 2013, 08:25:48 am
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Hi all I have got the kit on but I am a tad confused with the float height adjustment. I have measured at many angles but do not seem to get the default height value. Is it a case of having the carb propped at the correct angle? I have looked over as many guides as I can find but still none the wiser.
any help would be very appreciated.
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Finally found the video on installing Ivan's jet kit. It includes adjusting the float bowls.
It's not a great video but it you can pause it and see what's going on. The key thing is the angle at which he's holding the bank of carbs. If you get the angle right, as you gently rotate the carbs the floats move, then stop, then move again. It's in that mid position that you need to make the measurement - not full in, not full out.
Bending the little copper tang is also fiddly, but doable. Good luck!
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Fancy sharing it or are you just teasing me lol?
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http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/jetkitinstallation.html (http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/jetkitinstallation.html) and http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=74.0 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=74.0) enough reading there to keep you going :evil
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Fancy sharing it or are you just teasing me lol?
Sorry. I'm a complete bell end
RavenRider Jet Kit for Gen 1 Yamaha FZ1 - Video (http://www.metacafe.com/watch/5095492/)
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[url]http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/jetkitinstallation.html[/url] ([url]http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/jetkitinstallation.html[/url]) and [url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=74.0[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=74.0[/url]) enough reading there to keep you going :evil
Thanks for the links but these have already been looked over multiple times.. I have both printed out and in the garage with me.
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Fancy sharing it or are you just teasing me lol?
Sorry. I'm a complete bell end
RavenRider Jet Kit for Gen 1 Yamaha FZ1 - Video ([url]http://www.metacafe.com/watch/5095492/[/url])
Not at all, we are only human. this is the reason I want to be totally sure before I go about screwing my carbs up lol.
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It's posts like this that exemplifies why Mike is the ' maestro'
Fear not he'll be along soon :)
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Ayjay described perfectly in post #2. Move, stop, move again ... it's the stopped position that you measure and adjust from. :)
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Thanks for all the replies guys but I am still not 100%. I am starting to wonder if I am just over complicating the whole thing. It seems to me its not exactly a precise thing lol. For a start one side if the float looks to sit higher than the other when you measure.. bike has only done 7k and everything inside it is gleaming but there is a fair amount of play on all floats..
I will have another look tomorrow. Just getting a bit peeved with it now.
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Thanks for all the replies guys but I am still not 100%. I am starting to wonder if I am just over complicating the whole thing. It seems to me its not exactly a precise thing lol. For a start one side if the float looks to sit higher than the other when you measure.. bike has only done 7k and everything inside it is gleaming but there is a fair amount of play on all floats..
I will have another look tomorrow. Just getting a bit peeved with it now.
Yup, they're pretty wobbly, but you're not adjusting valves where you have to be 0.01mm precise. A steel ruler will do. Have you found the point where they stop moving as you gently rotate the bank of carbs and managed to get a measurement at all?
It's tricky holding them and rotating and measuring all at the same time and I found that as I rotated the bank of carbs, there was a lot of wobbling but they did settle in that mid position. Just gently rotated them so they are just moving and then they kind of lurch to the mid position, stop and then lurch again.
I can't remember which side I took the measurement, I just started at one end. I think it was the nearside...
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I will confess I am a bit of a perfectionist and have been measuring with a vernier caliper.. see this is the thing with the base measurement, mine seems to rest higher than 12.5mm. but i know what you guys will say that i am measuring wrongly. for me to get the 12.5mm the carbs are near enough flat on their heads??
I have done a very tiny adjustment to them and think i will leave it at that.. unless there is anyone in the Milton Keynes area that knows what they are looking for and fancies a visit from a fellow foccer? :lol
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Should have asked where you are - I'm over near Bedford....
I think on mine, they were around 12.5mm. Manufacturing tolerances could mean a millimetre difference, I would have thought.
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I will confess I am a bit of a perfectionist and have been measuring with a vernier caliper.. see this is the thing with the base measurement, mine seems to rest higher than 12.5mm. but i know what you guys will say that i am measuring wrongly. for me to get the 12.5mm the carbs are near enough flat on their heads??
I have done a very tiny adjustment to them and think i will leave it at that.. unless there is anyone in the Milton Keynes area that knows what they are looking for and fancies a visit from a fellow foccer? :lol
Go back to Pat's Site (link above) and see the Addendum II. Note that I don't put the carbs on the bench to measure the float height, so 'flat on their heads' is a clue that maybe you're doing it differently and that's why you're not getting accurate readings.
Obviously I place the carbs down flat to make the small adjustments to the float tangs but the key for me is to pivot them on one end - as in the photos - to check the move-stop-move again sequence.
Between 13.5 - 14mm is the target level; ideally, you want them all the same height. Mikuni's manufacturing tolerances are excellent, BTW ... in over 1000 floats I've checked, I've only ever found one that was not exactly at 12.5mm. :)
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Well I am not working tonight so I will take a look (armed with my new steel ruler :lol )
Also have a can of carb cleaner. I was just winding the Mrs up asking if it was ok if I clean them in the house haha
I do find it interesting that the top edge is measured in the picture whilst the carbs are on their end. would that not sit differently due to the play in them? Maybe my mind thinks tolerances should be tight on everything mechanical lol
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Yes, top edge - it's just a notional point to take the measurement.
Some floats can be slightly twisted so that one side is a fraction higher than the other. Just gently twist between thumb and forefinger to re-align them.
Be careful with that carb cleaner ... don't get it on the carb diaphragms.
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BTW ... in over 1000 floats I've checked, I've only ever found one that was not exactly at 12.5mm. :)
Blimey. That's quite something.
And what's more impressive is you've taken over a thousand banks of carbs out of Fazers. I can't think of much that makes me more depressed than the thought of taking the carbs out and putting them back in again. Bien cocido!
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Actually, it's more than 2000 floats now that I think of it ... but that's only 500 banks of carbs, 'cos there's 4 floats in each. :)
As for removing/refitting the carbs, my record is 12 mins to remove a set from putting the bike on the centrestand (it was outside in the middle of Feb ;) ) and 20 mins to refit, including the carb synch.
I guess practice helps ... :lol
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12 minutes? I cut myself to ribbons if I tried to do it that quick!
I remember there was a chap on the door assemblies line at Nissan who was just breath takingly dextrous. Never seen hands like it. 20 minutes to refit and sync a set of carbs is right up there with that guy if you ask me! Took me 2 hours to fit a throttle cable last year.
Can't wait to do the EXUP cables this weekend.. or not
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Quick update. you will all be glad to hear I had much better results with the ruler. :) The carbs are now back in but i am just trying to remember what pipes etc. go where lol. I just wanted to ask about the throttle cable. it adjusts ok but the closing side of the cable seems a bit sack. is this normal? if not what is the best way to adjust it? thanks again
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You don't adjust the closing side, just tighten the locknut against the cable holder. My guess is you've not done that yet. :)
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its ok it all aligned when i adjusted the cable on the twist grip. it got a little late last night to fire it up and balance the carbs so i will get on that tonight. I now have that feeling of dread that it will not start and have issues if it does start. Can always buy a 2nd hand set of carbs worst case. :lol
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Don't do what I did when I fired mine up after 'Ivanising' all those years (and Fazers ;) ) ago ...
... forgot to turn the fuel tap on! It fired up and ran for a few seconds on the fuel remaining in the fuel pump and coughed to a halt. I was convinced I'd done something dire and wrecked the carbs.
What a plonker! :lol
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I should be ok on that front.. I have one of those small external fuel bottles I am going to hook up so that I can keep the tank out the way for doing the balancing. just looked out the window and its snowing here in Milton Keynes so no chance of going out this weekend i bet. grrr..
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External tank will work but isn't actually necessary. Just one of the many neat design ideas in the Fazer is that you can simply prop the tank up at the front and do a carb synch (and loads of other stuff) with everything else connected as usual. :)
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Good on ya! Nearly there eh Fuzzbomb? Now take a look at the weather forecast. . . You could have taken another 2 weeks on judging by the long range. Ho ho.
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IT'S ALIVE!!!
Well sort of. it started ok and sounds a little lumpy at idle (always does when its cold) . seemed a tad crisper on the throttle. so I hooked up the vacuum gauges. in truth it is not that far off the mark by the look of it..
I decided to can it for the night, its fairly loud with the blue flame exhaust (Mrs moaned) and the garage got cold fairly quickly with the door open. lets face it exhaust gases are not your friend. :lol
I will go back out tomorrow after studying the carb synch guide a few times to get it straight in my head.
And yes AyJay i doubt very much it will be out this weekend or the next by the look of it. Oh well :rolleyes
Thanks again guys for the help and guidance. really is one of the best forums I have been a member of over the years.
I will update on how the balancing goes tomorrow.
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Unfortunately I do not have a carbtune but would you guys be happy with this?
Been messing with it for the last 30 mins and this was the best I can do. if I am honest I am not convinced on the accuracy of the gauges.
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Looks fine, call it good and move on. :)
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cool, cheers Falcon. according to the good ole Haynes manual the vacuum should be 225mmhg but considering the straight thru blueflame can, the pipercross air filter and the messing with the carbs I am amazed its so close.. Still a bit wooly on the pickup from tick over but better than it was before so I can live with that.
I will give an update as to how it rides when this damn snow goes..... cheers all
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What have you got the tickover set at?
Blimey, I can't believe I might have just contributed to an Ivanisation thread!! :lol
Steve
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rpm needle sits a smidge above the 1000 rpm marker at idle. the font of all knowledge (Haynes manual) says 1050 - 1150 rpm so went with that.
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Here we go again, this is twice in one thread. I don't think Mike need worry too much yet :lol
Haynes Manual would be for a standard carbed bike which you no longer have. Great isn't it to have non standard carbs.
Try raising it a little to 1250
Steve
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Steve's got you covered as far as idle speed is concerned. Higher is better, 'nuff said. :)
Don't sweat the actual vacuum reading because lots of things can affect it, not least the gauge accuracy. So long as the readings on all 4 cylinders are the same, you're sorted.
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just out of interest Mike, where in the 1050-1150 range would you set a stock bike? I find mine a little hesitant if low in the range.
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As Mike says the higher the better so for standard bike i'd go for 1150
Tommo
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On this topic my idle adjuster is fairly tight. is this normal? it does move but just worried I might snap it.
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You should be able to rotate it with thumb and forefinger. Try lubing with WD40. :)
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GOOD NEWS... It runs an runs well... Finally got out for a ride on the ole girl.
torque in midrange is noticeably better and much easier to overtake. top end power for me was never a really a concern as it scared the crap out of me as t was lol.
One thing I have noticed is it does seem to have a little more popping from the exhaust when changing down gears. guess it could be in my head or the rather cold weather could add to this?
Would I do it again? at present not sure I will have to make my mind up over the coming months.