old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Dead Eye on 24 January 2013, 04:53:40 pm
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Hi all, what size are the exhaust studs? I can't for the life of me remember and I don't have a paper copy of the haynes (digital copy doesn't say). I'm fairly sure they are M10 but wanted to confirm before purchasing :)
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Don't own a 600 but certain that all the Yamaha's I have ever owned have had M6 studs both ends or M6 one end & M8 at t'other. M10 seem huge for exhaust stud to me? :eek
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-Exhaust-Studs-Nuts-Pair-/150603687481?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D5104949684330945242%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D150603687481%26 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-Exhaust-Studs-Nuts-Pair-/150603687481?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D5104949684330945242%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D150603687481%26)
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m6 and torqued to 10 Nm ;)
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m6........10mm would be the size of the nut o/d or spanner/socket size :D
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You see, I knew 10 came in somewhere :lol
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hi i,v got 92 nuts here in stanless steel if u message me i,ll post some down to you or go to screw fix a bag of 100 will cost you no more than £5
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Thanks for the offer gordon, very generous of you, but my eagerness took over last night and I already have some on order. They were only about £3 or £4 so not too much to worry about :)
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Incase this helps anyone. I recently changed my rotten studs using 8 stainless hex bolts. I just dremeled off the ends, the size I used was M6x35. Standard exhaust studs measure M6x30ish, the extra 5mm really helps when putting the headers back on, just make sure the thread is good both ends before putting them in the head.
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Right, instead of opening a new topic on basically the same issue, I've managed to snap off the nuts on 6 of the 8 studs. The ones that snapped required so little effort compared to the two that behaved that I just had no chance of not snapping them really - they appear to be the originals and the bike has 84k on the clock so...
I popped out to B&Q this morning and bought some M6 nuts at the advice of red98 (damn delivery hasn't turned up for some others I ordered) and attempted the whole tighten two of them together to be able to remove the stud. No such luck, the stud is stuck fast and the nuts are just grinding away their thread (the stud seems less affected thankfully).
My only choice now is going to be to drill them out, right? Does anyone have any other advice... or a drill with decent bits? I'm otherwise rather buggered. I can pay in beer tokens :D
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morning deadeye.......just read bozbozs post regarding the use of 6mm bolts.are you sure you have ordered the right studs as looks like he did the job with 6mm......with 6 broken studs it might be easier to remove the engine to do the job :eek :eek :eek .......have you tryed a stud extractor ?
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The studs I've ordered are proper replacements, but they won't be here till next week I expect. I was attempting to get the old studs out but they are having none of it :(
I may be able to do it with the engine still in place (might be fiddly) as the only thing that appears to be significantly in the way is the radiator. If it comes down to it, I'll just have to remove the engine which will be a whole lot of fun I imagine - can't be worse than a cage gearbox swap surely...
I haven't actually looked at any stud extractors (didn't cross my mind) so I guess that's my next move.
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these extractors are bulky tools ,you might not have enough room :(
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Well it was going well... managed to go buy myself a stud extractor set, first one came out easy, next one snapped off with only 1 or 2 mm of the stud left outside of the head :'(
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your not having a lot of luck there matey :( ...another option for you...the studs that have broken off close to the surface cound be removed with an "easy out" its like a tapered, left handed screw.drill a small pilot hole and wind the "easy out" in anticlockwise,when it tightens all being well it will unscrew the stud and not damage the threads in the cylinder head ;)
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Yeah, I've seen some sets like that as well, but the cheap ones are crap and the good ones are bloody expensive :(
Oh and me, luck, since when? This is news to me...
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You might have to take engine out but have you tried welding a nut to the remaining piece of exhaust stud? Failing this it's drill out job but you need to be very accurate with drill centre. Feel for you. Just had to remove my old FZ750 engine to have 1 lousy stud drilled out. :'(
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I don't have that sort of kit I'm afraid - even before the garage fire I didn't have a welder and the drill I had has been totalled :(
Looks like I have two Fazers that are busted, bloody typical. Time to try and remove the engine I guess, anyone fancy lending a hand? :P
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ring around a few local welding companies and see if you can get a price for someone to come out to you and remove them.
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excuse my stupidness...
are these the bolts that hold the downpipes to the engine?
dont know what mine look like as they are just RUST :\
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Yup, that'll be them....
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Yeah, the damn things are prone to snapping and rusting quite a lot if they aren't looked after. Unfortunately this is exactly my issue.
The old pipes need to be welded quite a bit to be able to pass an M.O.T. regardless and I doubt they would have been suitable for this (metal is too thin now) so they had to come off sooner or later and with the state of the nuts and studs its no surprise they snapped, its just a pain in the ass. The first two came out without too much of a fight, but the subsequent 6 required probably half the amount of torque and just snapped clean off. I guess the metal had just been fatigued too much.
I'm trying what I can to get the bike fixed as fast as possible, but I have no undercover work space (since the garage hasn't been rebuilt yet) and the weather plus a heavy work load is not helping either. If I get extremely lucky and my boss decides that he loves me (not in that way you dirty foccers :lol ) then I may be able to start, and potentially complete, the engine removal tomorrow / Friday. Then I just need to get the old studs out and get the engine back in...
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You could get maybe another decent cylinder head off ebay to keep the time spent off road to a minimum?
Stud removal can be a real boll1x. With 3 studs snapped off, I had to take one of my heads to a local engineering shop - I dunno what process they used but got 'em out in a day(!) Don't think I'd have ever got them out myself without ruining the head.
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Well my bike isn't my main form of transport thankfully and I work from home, plus the supermarkets delivery so I should be ok with it off the road :lol
I've begun work today in removing the engine and I've just finished getting the carbs out, so time to move on to the next step. If I'm lucky I might be able to finish getting the engine out today, get it to a machine shop tomorrow then reassemble on Saturday? Granted that is quite an optimistic time frame :P
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Right, I am at the stage of removing the engine but im stuck :(
Can anyone tell me what size this nut is. It is behind the oil filter at the front of the engine - I've removed the filter already obviously but the stud is hitting the frame just enough to prevent the engine from coming out.
(http://www.liamfreke.net/screenshots/foc/20130131_164730_edit.jpg)
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I would think that its just a spigot for the filter to screw on to, it should ha-ha just undo, you know, just like the exhaust nuts do. The safest bet is to get a parts diagram if Haynes doesnt cover it but I doubt its anything other than a male/male reducer bolted in at the factory probably after the engine is in the frame, the fact that its got a hex on it makes it look like it comes out, but then your entire bike has a hex on it at the moment !
I hope it works out for you, youve more patience than I have in this weather.
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I thought to check the Haynes after I posted and managed to find that it was 30mm nut and that it allowed the removal of the oil cooler which is the unit behind the oil filter. So after an hour in rush hour traffic to get a 30mm socket, I got back to the pitch black garden and managed to finally get the engine out. Not bad for a days work I think and I'm on schedule. If it wasn't for the meet on Sunday (which I'm trying my fiercest to get to) then I would do a lot more work and maintenance on the engine whilst its out of the frame.
The weather hasn't been overly bad, quite wet on the ground this morning but it remained dry all day but with very strong gusts of wind - damn oil and coolant has gone everywhere because of it :P
So, does anyone know any machine shops in Chelmsford how are cheap and have a quick turn around ;)
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I thought to check the Haynes after I posted and managed to find that it was 30mm nut and that it allowed the removal of the oil cooler which is the unit behind the oil filter. So after an hour in rush hour traffic to get a 30mm socket, I got back to the pitch black garden and managed to finally get the engine out. Not bad for a days work I think and I'm on schedule. If it wasn't for the meet on Sunday (which I'm trying my fiercest to get to) then I would do a lot more work and maintenance on the engine whilst its out of the frame.
The weather hasn't been overly bad, quite wet on the ground this morning but it remained dry all day but with very strong gusts of wind - damn oil and coolant has gone everywhere because of it :P
So, does anyone know any machine shops in Chelmsford how are cheap and have a quick turn around ;)
There will be other meet-ups and rides, so missing one won't kill you. You might not have the will to pull the engine out and go through all that again later for maintenance work. Concentrate on getting the maintenance work that you need to do sorted, and get the engine right before putting it back in. You could even tidy it up and give it a DIY spray it to jazz it up a bit as well. You'd be more happier at all the other meets for doing so down the road.
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I think it might be a 22, can't remember now, been awhile since I put my engine in, how far u on with it?
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@packie: Yeah I know, its something I had considered and the events of today will force my hand one way or the other - if I can't get the studs removed then there is no way I can get the bike ready in time regardless. But I'm young and love mechanics. Doing all the work yesterday was actually fun for me, the back ache etc not so much, but still :P
@reilly: See my previous post above :P It was a 30mm nut and the engine is out and ready to be loaded in to my cage, which I am about to go and do :)
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@reilly: See my previous post above :P It was a 30mm nut and the engine is out and ready to be loaded in to my cage, which I am about to go and do :)
You must be built like Arnie....that a big lump to be....err....lumping!! :eek
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I wish I was built like arnie! But I did manage it thankfully. I've just got back from an engineering place who basically said they can't do it in its current state and they would need to have the head removed. They also quoted around £120 for the job and a turn around of about a week... so that wasn't particularly good news.
Probably going to just wait for my impact stud extractor to arrive (damn post) and see how many of them I can get out without snapping. Fingers crossed that I then only need one to be removed and I can find somewhere else that will do it with the head still attached. Needless to say, its likely that the bike will definitely not be ready for Sunday...
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thats a shame about sunday matey,nobody can say you have not tryed,well done in getting this far ;) that quote sounds a bit high to me might be worth shopping round.......removing the head is straight forward . no special tools needed but you will need a new head gasket ;)
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Well if I can get more of the studs out successfully it should drop the quote - he was quoting for removing 7 studs to be fair :P
Update: I've been out in the garden hammering away with my impact driver and successfully removed 5 of the offending studs. 1 more however decided to snap off flush with the head but at least there are only 2 studs to deal with, instead of 7 :P
Going to give one more machine shop a quick ring and see what they say :)
Update 2: Right, I've dropped off the engine with this other company who seemed much more helpful and said that it should be around £25 which is much more acceptable :P Mind you, my thumb is certainly hurting after hitting with the hammer several times :wall
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Result! I took my FZ engine to my mate who has his own engineering shop but we didn't use anything more than a hand drill with me holding the entire engine so he could give it some welly with the drill. Otherwise he would have wanted the head off to get it on his pillar drill & I've only just fitted it with new gasket & 20 new shims! Cost me £4.50 for his cooked breakfast. Well worth it. I couldn't drill it with engine in frame.
Really pleased for you. Don't do your new nuts up too tight when it's all back together! lol
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Haha, yeah I will be applying some copper grease I think and periodically removing them and cleaning them up to prevent it from happening again. Hopefully give the engine a damn good clean whilst its out of the frame as well. I think the previous owners just kept it in running order but never bothered to wash the poor thing.
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Just the nuts. Don't be removing exhaust studs unless you really really got to!
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A fair enough point as the studs only needed to be removed because they snapped and they only snapped because the damn nuts wouldn't come off :P
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hi i think its either a 30 or a 32 a socket works best :rolleyes
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A fair enough point as the studs only needed to be removed because they snapped and they only snapped because the damn nuts wouldn't come off :P
Why would anyone want their nuts to come off? :moon
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great progress deadeye..........do you know when the machine shop can get the work done,would be an epic tale if you can make the run on sunday.......good on yer matey :D
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Unfortunately I don't think it will be until early-mid next week :( They are closed over the weekend and I didn't hear from them yesterday so...
But yeah, progress went pretty well in the end all things considered - first time I've undertaken quite such a large job on the bike. But it was so nice to work on compared to the 25 year old cars I've worked on where every single damn bolt is stuck fast.
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always next month deadeye.......not sure of the turnout on first run but bound to be better on the second ;) ....good luck getting it all back together and as always if you get stuck post on here and we will see if we can help you :D
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But it was so nice to work on compared to the 25 year old cars I've worked on where every single damn bolt is stuck fast.
......errrrr...the reason you have the engine out is that the bolts on yer motorcycle are damn stuck fast! :oops
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Yes, BUT that was only 8 studs... on my cars it was every single one you ever tried to undo :P
Every other bolt on the bike came out with no fuss when I was removing the engine, it made the job that much easier
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hi deadeye.......bit early i know,any news from the machine shop :)
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In fact yes! :D
I was actually on my way to the shop to collect the engine when you posted your message. So its back with me now, sat with the bike under the cover. Need to get another free day to do some clean-up and re-assembly. I figure this may not be until the weekend however. In any case, I'll update as things progress :)
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wow that was quick :D ......you now have 27 days until the march meet......clocks ticking :D :D :D
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well done. what sort of impact driver did you use to get them out?
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I bought a 1/2" drive impact driver from Halfords (I couldn't wait :P) and an impact stud remover set from Amazon here; http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001DYRDU2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001DYRDU2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00)
Most of the larger 1/2" drive extractors range from 6mm up and since the studs are 6mm I wasn't confident that it could get a significant grip. This is why I bought the set which included the 2mm-8mm extractor which worked pretty well. On one of them I almost couldn't get the extractor to let go of the stud once I'd removed it :lol
After several wacks from a hammer, they all (bar one) began to shift and allowed me to use a socket wrench to remove them without sheering them off any further.
For those who may be interested, the machine shop (Star Engineers in Broomfield) were very helpful and it ended up costing me £40. Since this was for two studs (drilled out, re-tapped and heli-coiled) I didn't think the price was too bad :)
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nice one liam. glad ur on the road to recovery. i may pop round the weekend and see ow ur gettin on. :thumbup
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You are more than welcome to help be break my back trying to lift the engine back in to the frame :lol
To be honest, getting the engine re-seated is going to be the hardest part I think. Once its in, everything just bolts back together :)
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ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh.....i like the look of that impact stud extractor :D not seen one of them before,thanks for sharing,helicoils are easy to fit and there`s plenty on the bay,have used several in my older bikes,there like a tightly wound spring that winds into an oversize hole which enables the orignal size bolt to be used....very handy ;) , good luck with the re-fit :)
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Yeah, they came up in a few of my searches and worked a lot better than the other types I've seen (fixed size which wind against the stud). I have both types in my possession now and the latter ended up nearly sheering one of the studs. The impact ones were so much better and definitely recommended.
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£40 sounds fair to me for 2 studs removed & holes repaired, nice. :)
I have almost perfected the art of balancing my FZ engine on a trolley jack with a piece of wood between the 2 as a cushion. With one hand on the engine I just slowly jack it up with the other hand until 1 or 2 mounting holes line up then whack the bolts in sharpish. Probably better with extra pair of hands but you sound impatient.. . just like me! lol
Honestly I would love to give you a hand but checked you out on the map & you're too far from me. :(
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Yeah, I thought £40 was pretty fair for 2 studs and it was done pretty fast. Dropped it off late Friday afternoon and picked it up early Monday afternoon and they aren't open over the weekends :P
I think I'll manage once I get the engine semi in to the frame. After that its a cake walk :) Thanks for the offer of help as well ^^
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good offer from EXUPNUT ........top man.........................just dont let him near you GLOVES OR KEYS :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin
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:groan
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Well after back breaking day or work and help from Expunut, we managed to get the bike re-assembled and fired-up :) I've finally got nearly everything done to it at last
A quick question though - the new clutch cable is way too tight and I've slackened it as much as possible at the bar end. I've heard people talk about adjusting it behind the sprocket cover - how?
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Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover and you will see a 10mm lnut and a slotted bolt end for a screwdriver.
Loosen the nut, it will give a weird sound when it gives and then use a screwdriver to adjust it. You will need to turn it anticlockwise to slacken it.
When you have about 10mm freeplay at the lever tighten it up again and take up the final slack with the adjuster at the lever.
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dark times @ chelmsford....thank fuck for smart torch :thumbup the end of the day piccy...5 min after this the bike was purring like only a blue one can :car :photo
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and what about the choke cable? was that new? :uhuh
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nice work chaps ;) and not the warmest day of the year.....just odds and sods to do now then ? :D
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It's so blue it's tainted your photo :lol
Gald you guys got it back together and running good :)
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Well done that man. Very pleased for you. :)
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So, we all know that i apparently lack any form of luck and once again this has been proven. I was going to go on my maiden voyage today but upon leaving it was instantly noticeable that the clutch wasn't engaging correctly. So i rode back home (only went about 1/4 of a mile) and stripped the clutch again. Find that i had two of the plates in the wrong order so put everything back and magically the clutch wouldn't engage at all. Tried adjusting the clutch cable constantly to no avail. So i got the old clutch cable back out and refitted it, but again no luck. Figured that maybe the springs weren't tight enough or something since they are only 10Nm as i was being careful. Went to tighten them and SNAP. The bit that the spring gets screwed into snapped from the clutch housing so my bike is buggered once again and I'm pretty pissed off with it. Almost at the point of breaking it and selling it for parts as nothing is going well at all.
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Gutted Deadeye, such a shame when you've done so much already. Stick with it though buddy, it'll come good in the end and you'll appreciate it even more when it's running good 8)
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bugger,bugger,bugger :'( :'( :'( after all that work :( .....have a rest from it for a while,when you go back to it parhaps it wont be as bad :)
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When we put the clutch back together the last spacer we put was in proud by about half its width. U remember. Did we put in an extra spacer or friction plate by mistake? Shud a spacer go in first and last therefore enclosing all the friction plates?
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There was a good video on youtube of a guy replacing a fazer clutch, he went through what order they should all go in. Hope that helps...
Edit: found it - Fazer Clutch Replacement (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQejoxdatGM#ws)
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Stick with it, mate. I was in that frame of mind at Xmas. Was going to sell my bike off to the breakers and take a serious hit finanially. But I stuck with it and things have gone right over the last month or two. Outside a new front sprocket nut, I have had about 1,000 trouble free miles now over the last 5-6 weeks. This was the list of problems I had in the space of about 6 weeks which costed quite a few bob to sort out.........
- I had an electrical problem at take off that threw me from the bike the first time it kicked in. Took a while to find where it was coming from and sort.
- Then my camchain was knackered & the previous owner welded a blob of metal onto the tensioner to take up the slack so I had to buy a tensioner as well. Costed about £200
- Then one of my fork legs needed to be replaced. Costed £75
- My front & rear discs had to be replaced as I didn't bring a gauge to measure them when I bought the bike. Of course, I had to get new pads too to run with the new discs. Costed about £400
- My back break calliper was half knackered and I spotted a "thou" one and bought that. Costed £50
- My back master cylinder was also butchered and replaced that and in the process, I cracked the mounting footrest plate and had to replace that. Costed £60
- I have tight spots on the chain that i'm not happy about and bought a new chain and spocket set. I then discovered I have been riding with no sprocket nut for the last few months!! Costed £100
- While I was at it, I treated myself to a K&N filter and a new slip on can. Costed £150
On the positive side, I made a huge contribution to the UK enconomy to get it back on its feet!! :wall
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thanks for keeping the enconomy going PACKIE :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin ... DEADEYE, if it makes you feel better go back and read my stuttering thread , still not fixed :o :o :o ......had many happy miles on this bike so i know its worth it......come the better weather and with a few outings with the london foccers under your tyres you`ll be able to look back at these dark days and have a chuckle to yourself...well worth the pain and effort :)
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@Exupnut - We had the right number of plates, just the there is a special friction plate with a larger internal diameter that slips of the judder spring - this was in the wrong order which is what caused that last plate to stick out further than it should have. I also sorted out that Choke issue as well
@Chris - Yep, used that video as a guide myself as I have it bookmarked. He failed to mention the special internal diameter friction plate though.
@Packie - Yeah... I have no intention of spending that much money :P My bank account is still suffering from buying the bike to start with. Going to buy the new parts which should be sub £100 in total *fingers crossed* In reality, the thoughts of breaking it and selling it were just because I was rather annoyed. I needed the bike to do a journey to Bristol this weekend so instead its going to cost me twice as much in fuel with the cage which is also acting up :(
@red98 - I don't think I could have survived what you've been through on that 600, BUT, having said that, you do have the thou to keep you entertained in the meantime. I on the other hand am still off of two wheels :(
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had i not had the thou i think i would have sorted it by now ;) ......do miss the 600 though......thinking the 6 is better than the thou :rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes
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Grr, if only deliveries were instantaneous :(
Its just soooo frustrating needing a part or a tool or something but having to wait for snail mail and typically it nearly always arrives on a Monday or Tuesday so you have to wait until the following SATURDAY before you get any bloody time to work on it. Then you find something else is wrong and need to wait for mail again etc etc... Drives me foccin insane! End up just sitting around twiddling my thumbs thinking of all the wasted time...
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had i not had the thou i think i would have sorted it by now ;) ......do miss the 600 though......thinking the 6 is better than the thou :rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes
Definately more usesble but ouch!! That was a mortal blow ;)
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yeh i know,,,,,,,,sorry all you thou owners :o
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hi DEADEYE,how you getting on with the fazer :)
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Still waiting on snail mail to actually show up... hopefully it will arrive today and then I may get a chance to tinker with it later on. Hell, if work is quiet I may even be able to go for a ride in the sun! :eek
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Right, so the part FINALLY arrived today and I got everything re-assembled and now the clutch feels better from the handle BUT the engine won't start...
Turns over fine, but I reckon the battery is going to give up soon as its had to start the bike several times when it has been reluctant (especially after the engine was put back in to the frame). Is it possible to jump a motorcycle like you would with a car, using jump leads? My electrical knowledge is limited but to me a car battery seems like a stronger, higher capacity 12V source so... obviously I'd rather not blow up the battery though as that would probably reduce me to a blubbering wreck at that stage...
I do have a charger, BUT that's more time to waste if its actually something else. Checked the fuel tap just to be sure and its getting a spark. It coughs a little on the first attempt after leaving it for 5 mins but then just refuses.
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U can jump it from a car no problem liam. Me an marina done it many times. If u have a problem gettin the clips on then put the nuetral lead on the FRAME. once u got it running go ride it for an hour cos it wont put any charge back in under 3k revs.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
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Precisely, it just getting the bugger to run haha
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Fuel on? HT leads on correctly, coils reconnected correctly
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Yep, yep and yep :P
I doubled checked the fuel tap and actually got the bike to start for all of 5 seconds before it died and then refused to start again about 10 minutes ago
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yeh....jumping from a cars fine.....dont churn it over for long periods though ;) ....and as exup says a good run after which iam sure your only too keen to do.........good luck and as always lets us know how you gat on :D
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Certainly sounds like a fuelling issue. No kinks in pipes etc, i'm sure you've checked for that kind of thing though, good luck!
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START YOU BASTARD ,START.......come on DEADEYE we`re all behind you :)
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It's been prodded, poked, kicked and slapped but the bastard still won't start. Tried hooking up my car battery (took leads off of the car) but no power is getting to the bike (bike battery removed). I think my jump leads are a load of crap...
Bike battery is thoroughly flat now so I'm trying to charge it carefully on my car charger (set at 2 Amps)... not the best option but so far the only one that's getting somewhere.
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should charge ok with car charger...if its a trickle charge it might need to be on charge overnight ;)
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Lots of car chargers put through too much current for a bike battery (which don't have the same capacity as a car one). You can fry a bike battery with a car charger, if you're not careful.
If it's a trickle charger, more chance of being ok...
Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2
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Precisely, this was my concern, but a little bit of research shows that a lot of motorcycle chargers charge at 2-4 Amps so my car charger at 2 Amps should be fine :) It can go to 12 Amps which would definitely fry it :P
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2 amp charge rate is absolutely fine.
Is your charger an intelligent one, ie it will automatically go into a float mode when it sees the battery as charged. Happy days.
If not, and you have a meter check the voltage across the terminals while it is charging and when it reaches 14.8v dont leave on charge for too long, you have done the bulk charge and got to about 90% of capacity
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Ah cool, if yours is manually switchable then jobs a good'un :thumbup
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Yeah, its an intelligent charger and allows you to monitor the Voltage on the battery as its charging which is handy :) So it got to about 90% in a couple of hours so armed with a charged battery I went out and the bike finally started! YAY!! .... yeah... too good to be true...
Now the fecking clutch will NOT disengage at all, no matter what I do... so, ideas?! I was adjusting the cable like crazy at the sprocket cover but no luck. The clutch is really giving me a headache now...
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Right,
quick update, I THINK I may have it sorted. Theory so far is that when I bought the new clutch boss I also bought new clutch springs (EBC Heavy Duty) - this appears to have been a bad idea. The springs are just way too stiff to the point that you can't disengage the clutch because the pressure plate won't move. Almost thought I'd thrown out my old springs but thankfully I remembered I'd stuffed them in a drawer. So clutch has been back out again to check the plates again and the springs have now been replaced back to the ones from my burnt out bike which seemed in far better condition than those that came out of the new blue bike.
But once again, my bike is playing the typical game of not wanting to start... I'm hoping its just the cold and that it's been sat still. If not then there is something else I have to try and fix :(
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Right, quick update, I THINK I may have it sorted. Theory so far is that when I bought the new clutch boss I also bought new clutch springs (EBC Heavy Duty) - this appears to have been a bad idea. The springs are just way too stiff to the point that you can't disengage the clutch because the pressure plate won't move. Almost thought I'd thrown out my old springs but thankfully I remembered I'd stuffed them in a drawer. So clutch has been back out again to check the plates again and the springs have now been replaced back to the ones from my burnt out bike which seemed in far better condition than those that came out of the new blue bike.
But once again, my bike is playing the typical game of not wanting to start... I'm hoping its just the cold and that it's been sat still. If not then there is something else I have to try and fix :(
keep going DEADEYE....is the battery back on charge now ?
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Nope, just giving it a rest to try again - battery isn't flat... yet :P
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Hi,
Try draining the carbs as you may have stale fuel in there.
Mark
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The carbs have been out and back in only about a week ago after a full clean and then they were synchronised afterwards so I'd be surprised if the fuel went off that quick. The fuel in the tank is only about a month old as well.
In any case, I got the bugger fired up at long last and went out for about an hour and a half. Got it booked in locally to have someone fiddle with the rear tyre and change the front discs :)
However another new problem has surfaced. I'm getting quite a strong knock from the front sprocket area by the seems of things. It's too damn cold to go back out and deal with it at the moment, so that's a job for tomorrow most likely. Does the sprocket have to go on a certain way? I assumed it didn't make any difference but...
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aftermarket sprockets go on anyway,did you remove it for the stud work and parhaps refit the other way round,if the sprockets slightly worn it might be picking up on the chain ;)
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aftermarket sprockets go on anyway,did you remove it for the stud work and parhaps refit the other way round,if the sprockets slightly worn it might be picking up on the chain ;)
Yeah, this is my thought. The teeth have a slight curve to them which at the top of the socket when looking at it currently curve towards the front of the bike. Hopefully someone one can confirm if this is correct or not before I swap it round...
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yeh...they would wear the other way around ;) ......you dont fancy changing the discs yourself then :rolleyes
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Well I tried to get the old burnt ones off using my impact driver but they just wouldn't budge. I don't fancy snapping the nuts so I'll let the garage have the fun task of doing it as I've been warned about them before :P
Also, is your comment agreeing with me about the sprocket or confirming that I've actually got it on back to front?
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Really glad you got it going and got out for a run on it mate. I believe the sprocket should be on the other way. the tooth at the top when fitted to the bike, and all other teeth, should have worn on the left hand edge as this is the edge that is taking the strain while pulling the chain around. 8)
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Glad you got it running :)
Mark
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Yeah, it was nice to get back out on two wheels, even if I was apprehensive the entire time about the sprocket falling off :P
Will be MUCH nicer once I get the sprocket sorted and have decent discs on it. If I ever get a bit of spare money towards the end of the month I may even be able to afford new pads haha
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Well I tried to get the old burnt ones off using my impact driver but they just wouldn't budge. I don't fancy snapping the nuts so I'll let the garage have the fun task of doing it as I've been warned about them before :P
Also, is your comment agreeing with me about the sprocket or confirming that I've actually got it on back to front?
yes agree with you on the sprocket.....must have been on the other way round ;) simple fix this one :rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes
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Yeah, sprocket was definitely on the wrong way. Got it changed this morning and went out and all is well again :D
Just need to get the tyre and brakes sorted now, but at least the bike is rideable in its current state :)
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Yeah, sprocket was definitely on the wrong way. Got it changed this morning and went out and all is well again :D
Just need to get the tyre and brakes sorted now, but at least the bike is rideable in its current state :)
That's good mate, so glad you got it back on the road and (almost) all is well! 8)
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Yeah, had a bit of clutch slip this morning when I first left but I think this is just an adjustment issue so I'll deal with that later after its cooled down (to replicate the conditions)
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good proress DEADEYE.........looks like you`ll make the march ride........
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Lookin frwd to seein u dead. +1 for your determined perseverance.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
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Well its only managed to get worse... rear tyre had a nail which went through one part and then out the other so wasn't repairable. This means a new rear tyre - plus the garage can't get the rear disc off so that may mean a new rim / drilling out the old studs. Gave them my old burnt one but it could be useless due to the severe heat it was subjected to. Figured at this point that I may as well go all in and get a new front tyre to match since at the moment its the wrong damned size.
All in all, the price seems to have had a significant increase from my initial hope. This bike is trying to destroy my bank account I swear...
If, after this, more things go wrong. It may be the last straw
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"Lookin frwd to seein u dead."
EXUPNUT me old mate.........do you want to re-phrase that...sure you did`nt mean it :lol :lol :lol
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yep.....your the un-luckiest bloke i know :( ........you`ll get your monies worth from the tyres and i think a bit unfair to include in the final fix-it bill ;) as for the disc,i was in the same trouble a few years ago,had to drill the bolt heads ,remove the disc and then drill and re-tap the threads.......iam sure this is a job you can manage,it makes it easier if you have a pillar drill,not much cost envolved if you do it yourself :)
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yep.....your the un-luckiest bloke i know :(
I'm the un-luckiest bloke I know as well...
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he's the unlukiest guy i know aswell and he's not dead.(happy now mr red) :)
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Well its only managed to get worse... rear tyre had a nail which went through one part and then out the other so wasn't repairable. This means a new rear tyre - plus the garage can't get the rear disc off so that may mean a new rim / drilling out the old studs. Gave them my old burnt one but it could be useless due to the severe heat it was subjected to. Figured at this point that I may as well go all in and get a new front tyre to match since at the moment its the wrong damned size.
All in all, the price seems to have had a significant increase from my initial hope. This bike is trying to destroy my bank account I swear...
If, after this, more things go wrong. It may be the last straw
I sympathise with you....had the same sh!t with my bike. Thankfully, i'm turning a corner now and i'm enjoying the bike. Hopefully you will too, soon.
Also, you are not alone...spare a thought for Mr O'Reilly. He's had his carbs out more times than Jordan's Jugs!! :lol :lol :lol
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he's the unlukiest guy i know aswell and he's not dead.(happy now mr red) :)
thats better MR BLUE ....... bl**dy cold out there today.no fettling for me today :\
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how you getting on DEADEYE ?.......only 5 days untill the march ride :)
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Haven't heard anything from the garage yet but going to give them a call tomorrow as I was hoping to have heard something by now - plus my car is booked in this Thursday so I will be otherwise vehicle-less if I don't get it back...
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i could get mr vfr to av a werd. he's used him for years. if all else fails we could garotte/hang draw quarter/kneecap/behead or :2guns him into admitting it was all his suppliers fault :lol
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IT LIVES!!!
The Fazer is back at home with some nice shiny new BT023's and discs that don't judder the crap out of me when braking :P
So, time to bed the pads into the discs and scrub in the tyres a bit more :D Looking forward to Sunday a lot more now :D
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IT LIVES!!!
The Fazer is back at home with some nice shiny new BT023's and discs that don't judder the crap out of me when braking :P
So, time to bed the pads into the discs and scrub in the tyres a bit more :D Looking forward to Sunday a lot more now :D
YAY!!! Awesome news buddy!! Now take it easy out there! 8)
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we've been having fun today, got all the nuts off though..
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Looks like you are having as much fun as I did when this all began... Thankfully that sort of drama wasn't required, the buggers just fell off so damn easily - the metal studs had obviously warped and the material had become useless
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studs seem ok, we just used the dremell to cut groves into manky nuts, plenty of gt85, old screwdriver and copper hammer, and tapped them loose, took all afternoon, but all nuts off, now we need to try and get the headers out of the head without damaging the head... going to take mine off and replace.with decent stainless nuts, before they start to corrode.
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anyone tried a nut splitter on the exhaust nuts? might save a bit of hassle
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Nut splitter, bought one... Didnt use it. Wouldn't really be enough room to use it anyways.
Imperial sockets have a purpose after all... whacked one on with a hammer and it worked on a couple before I ruined the socket. (3 dodgy nuts)
Cutting a groove in the nut then tapping it round with a hammer and a screwdriver does the job if other attempts fail, just had to do this with one of the screws on my front brake res as I butchered the head on it.
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Andy-had same prob with front master cylinder reservoir screws recently. I use small then progressively larger size drill bits to remove screw head then remove cover & get molegrips on shank of screw. :eek Never failed yet. :lol Mine had been overtightened & corroded in.
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Dave 48 - any idea what size of screw I'll need to replace it?
Had a trip to toolstation yesterday to buy some nuts for putting the new downpipes on, not sure if they would sell suitable screws.
Dont really want a pack of 1000 either! :D
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Andy- the Yamaha part no is 98707041200--cost from local dealer £1-12 for 2x They are fine thread and the screw heads are designed to fit flush with top cover.
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I've got these for exhaust nuts
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Stainless+Range/Stainless+Steel+Connector+Nut+M6/d90/sd1030/p25755 (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Stainless+Range/Stainless+Steel+Connector+Nut+M6/d90/sd1030/p25755)
And this for exhaust studs
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Stainless+Range/Stainless+Steel+Threaded+Bar+M6+x+1m/d90/sd1030/p65406 (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Stainless+Range/Stainless+Steel+Threaded+Bar+M6+x+1m/d90/sd1030/p65406)
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Was just contemplating doing this job- replacing the down pipes myself- think I will let the garage do it having read this thread. As a mater of interest, if the engine has done 85k and you are removing it to get the studs out why not just get a replacement low mileage engine?
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Because a replacement low-mileage engine costs £250-350 and removing the studs cost me £40 :P
Besides, I have a second low-ish mileage (24k) engine that I am rebuilding at the moment which will go in once its done :)
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What size drill and what size easy out would i need
as the fourth one from the left as snapped off at the
engine head ?
Cheers lads
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As far as drill bits go, I would suggest nothing larger than 5mm - start small and work your way up if this is the route you want to take. Not sure on the easy outs as I haven't used them before - as noted at the beginning of this thread, I removed the engine and had a local machine shop remove the studs for me
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Sure as hell can't make it any worse :rollin
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stay away from easy outs. if you snap one of them in the engine you'll never get it out
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with that said I've decided to drill it out and re tap it out
and hope for the best
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So far so good, drilled out with a 7mm now putting a 8mm
tap into it job done then.
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Wish I had tried myself now - got a call from the youngest mechanic in the bike shop saying he had broken two studs at the engine casing and could he call an engineer. I could have bloody done that. This is going to get expensive $?/:%%&&¥
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:rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin :rollin This thread makes me laugh, a lot. After working on FZSs for years its interesting to see other peoples solutions to the problem..... I have done this job so many times now
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I have done this job so many times now
How much to swap mine if I bring 'em along? :rolleyes
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The engineer cost me £160 for 4 hours work to remove the two studs - considering the cost an engne out job woukd have been I was happy with this
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To drill it out and tap it took me a hour , it done the job and still holding
fast