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Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: xlewisbdx on 22 January 2013, 06:36:08 pm
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Right so I want to change my oil on the bike, I have everything I need. Oil, Filter and Crush washer.
What I want to know is how much oil do I use, what mm the drain bolt it and how I take off the filter without the proper tool.
Any advice welcome.
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The messiest way i can think of is whacking a screwdriver through the filter then using it as a wrench.
As for oil, it's a 2.5 litre sump, or around 2.7 litres with a filter change, but you need to start the engine for 30 odd seconds, switch off, then check the window for the correct level and then top up if needed.
You want it between the upper and lower markings of the window.
Keep starting the engine, switch off, then check again.
Don't overfill it.
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try unscrewing the oil filter by hand - if they have been put on not overtightly, then they might just come off with some gentle brute force
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That's why i now buy the K&N oil filter, 'cos it's got a nut head on it and can be undone with a socket or spanner!
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That's why i now buy the K&N oil filter, 'cos it's got a nut head on it and can be undone with a socket or spanner!
Can you re use it like the air filter if so how do you clean it?
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That's why i now buy the K&N oil filter, 'cos it's got a nut head on it and can be undone with a socket or spanner!
Can you re use it like the air filter if so how do you clean it?
No, if its comming off, you replace it..
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i used a garendening glove to get a grip on it.
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I use a strap wrench to get mine off (fnarr fnarr) but you can get a socket adapter for the job. When you put the new one on wipe a bit of fresh oil on the seal and put it on hand tight, there's a haynes manual in the downloads section should cover this with pictures.
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I use an old wood chisel, though a sharpened screwdriver would work just as well.
Rather than punching it through the filter place it at the rim of the filter and tap it gently with a hammer a few times in the unscrewing direction.
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I use an old wood chisel, though a sharpened screwdriver would work just as well.
Rather than punching it through the filter place it at the rim of the filter and tap it gently with a hammer a few times in the unscrewing direction.
Second that if you dont have a rubber grip/filter wrench. If you whack the screwdriver thru you end getting oil everywhere! Dont forget to go for a ride before draining your oil gto help it flow easier (but watch your fingers on the hot engine/exhaust).
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+1
I've used the screwdriver method on cars and the bike, but its incredibly messy :( I now have an oil wrench which im yet to test, so hopefully all shall go well next time :P The largest problem is usually having enough space to use the darned wrench in the first place :lol
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The largest problem is usually having enough space to use the darned wrench in the first place :lol
Yep, I got one of these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-FILTER-REMOVAL-TOOL-WRENCH-YAMAHA-FZS600-FZS-600-/150785708962?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item231b8753a2) from Ebay, makes the job so much easier but you'll need an externder so you can reach the nut through the pipes.
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Once youve cracked the sump plug open a turn or two put something under the drain hole for when you get the plug out to drain the old oil into the drain pan, just a cut up old coke bottle will do or anything to hand, otherwise the old oil comes out of the side , hits the frame and then goes wherever it wants to before dripping onto your garage floor. Mind your fingers, the old oil is hot !. Oh and dont overtighten the sump plug. Good luck with it, its a simple enough job but i always get a feeling of satisfaction from doing an oil change, maybe I need to get out more.
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I did say the screwdriver method would be messy!! But then he did say he hasn't got the proper tools for the job. Personally i'd have popped out and bought a chain wrench by now, you can't beat simple but proper tools for the job in hand, it makes life so much easier!
@Lewis the oil filter is just made by K&N, it's only a normal replacement, apart from the added extra of the nut on the end which is extremely useful.
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I did say the screwdriver method would be messy!! But then he did say he hasn't got the proper tools for the job. Personally i'd have popped out and bought a chain wrench by now, you can't beat simple but proper tools for the job in hand, it makes life so much easier!
@Lewis the oil filter is just made by K&N, it's only a normal replacement, apart from the added extra of the nut on the end which is extremely useful.
My friend has all the tools so I am going to go his and change the oil and he is going to watch me to make sure I do everything OK. He does his own work on his bike.
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Does anyone know what size the drain bolt is and what size socket I would need?
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i think its a 17 lewis.
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+1
Definitely 17 as I did this yesterday :)
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Thank you very much both of you. Could I use a spanner at all?
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I personally use a ring spanner, it's a bit easier to use with the bike on the side stand (drains the oil easier on the side stand).
Undo the bolt first, making sure the oil is directed into a bowl correctly, then undo the oil filler cap to let the air pass through.
Then tighten the bolt back up firmly but not overtight.
Then put the bike on the centre stand on a flat surface before refilling with oil.
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I personally use a ring spanner, it's a bit easier to use with the bike on the side stand (drains the oil easier on the side stand).
Undo the bolt first, making sure the oil is directed into a bowl correctly, then undo the oil filler cap to let the air pass through.
Then tighten the bolt back up firmly but not overtight.
Cheers boss, will do. I've just bough a set of spanners and it has a 17mm ring one on so I am good to go there :D
Just to get this right, it is around 2.7 litres when I fill it back up. I will be draining the oil and changing the filter.
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From empty, as you are changing the filter as well, you're safe to put in 2.5 litres straight off.
Then, start the engine for 20-30 seconds so it coats the engine, switch off, and then watch the window, the oil will slowly rise up.
If it's not enough add a bit at a time, then start engine again, switch off, then watch the window again.
Repeat this process until the oil level is in between the metal markers at the side of the window.
Make sure the bike's on a level flat surface on the centre stand though otherwise you'll get a false reading. ;)
If you're thinking of changing the oil around the 4000 mile mark, you only need to replace the filter every 2 changes, it's not necessary every time.
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From empty, as you are changing the filter as well, you're safe to put in 2.5 litres straight off.
Then, start the engine for 20-30 seconds so it coats the engine, switch off, and then watch the window, the oil will slowly rise up.
If it's not enough add a bit at a time, then start engine again, switch off, then watch the window again.
Repeat this process until the oil level is in between the metal markers at the side of the window.
Make sure the bike's on a level flat surface on the centre stand though otherwise you'll get a false reading. ;)
I love you.... :)
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according to manual :
Oil quantity:Total amount:3.5 L
Periodic oil change:2.5 L
With oil filter replacement:2.7 L
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From empty, as you are changing the filter as well, you're safe to put in 2.5 litres straight off.
Then, start the engine for 20-30 seconds so it coats the engine, switch off, and then watch the window, the oil will slowly rise up.
If it's not enough add a bit at a time, then start engine again, switch off, then watch the window again.
Repeat this process until the oil level is in between the metal markers at the side of the window.
Make sure the bike's on a level flat surface on the centre stand though otherwise you'll get a false reading. ;)
I love you.... :)
Now, now, control yourself, you have a bike to look after....... :biker
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according to manual :
Oil quantity:Total amount:3.5 L
Periodic oil change:2.5 L
With oil filter replacement:2.7 L
Crikey, don't chuck 3.5 litres into the equation, i'm trying to make this easy!!
3.5 litres is in the factory, totally dry.
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From empty, as you are changing the filter as well, you're safe to put in 2.5 litres straight off.
Then, start the engine for 20-30 seconds so it coats the engine, switch off, and then watch the window, the oil will slowly rise up.
If it's not enough add a bit at a time, then start engine again, switch off, then watch the window again.
Repeat this process until the oil level is in between the metal markers at the side of the window.
Make sure the bike's on a level flat surface on the centre stand though otherwise you'll get a false reading. ;)
I love you.... :)
Now, now, control yourself, you have a bike to look after....... :biker
Oh yeah, he gets all the attention first ;)
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I will be changing oil in mine. Do you know the measures for drain washer? Or link to websites would help. Fzs600 2002. Thanks.
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I will be changing oil in mine. Do you know the measures for drain washer? Or link to websites would help. Fzs600 2002. Thanks.
Would just use the old one to be honest, the sump bolt is long with plenty of thread, it's not under any stress, and won't come loose or leak.
Don't go mad tightening the bolt up either otherwise you'll round it off.
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Agree with darrsi, but if you want to replace with a new one you need a aluminium sump washer M14x20x1.5.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-X-20-X-1-5-MM-THICK-ALUMINIUM-SUMP-NUT-WASHERS-/270661455664 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-X-20-X-1-5-MM-THICK-ALUMINIUM-SUMP-NUT-WASHERS-/270661455664)
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HI Darrsi and Bandit
Thank you very much for help. If I will manage to buy it in Edinburgh before the weekend (as it's too late for online order) then I will use new washer if now then I go with the old one. I will use friend's torque wrench for tightening up so should be all good :-)
Thanks again
Zielik
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You will find that you will have to undo & do it up with a ring spanner as you can't get a torque wrench or socket on it due to the frame. Just nip it up don't be tempted to over tighten as you will strip the threads.
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You will find that you will have to undo & do it up with a ring spanner as you can't get a torque wrench or socket on it due to the frame. Just nip it up don't be tempted to over tighten as you will strip the threads.
That was my earlier point about not going mad tightening it up, you can't get a socket on the nut so unless you've got some fancy contraption then nipping up as bandit says is more than enough. If it was to leak, which it won't, then simply nip it up a little bit more.
Just make sure the ring spanner is on properly otherwise it will quite easily round off or damage the soft hex head of the bolt......been there, done that before. :o
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For some reason that escapes me the sump plugs seem to be made with pre-rounded corners to make them more prone to spanners slipping than normal bolt heads
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Regarding alternative methods on the oil filter, fust buy an oil filter socket, it makes it so much easier to change the filter.
On another note, for you guys with un-original downpipes (motad/delvic), do they make the oil filter change harder?
Also for the sump plug, these are worth their weight in gold:
(http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys_master/8873658318878.jpg)
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Also for the sump plug, these are worth their weight in gold:
([url]http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys_master/8873658318878.jpg[/url])
Strictly speaking only one of them is, the rest won't fit :lol
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Regarding alternative methods on the oil filter, fust buy an oil filter socket, it makes it so much easier to change the filter.
On another note, for you guys with un-original downpipes (motad/delvic), do they make the oil filter change harder?
Also for the sump plug, these are worth their weight in gold:
([url]http://www.clasohlson.com/medias/sys_master/8873658318878.jpg[/url])
:agree
Yeah, good shout, i have a set of these as well, really handy.
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I bought a set of these from Halfords in January and they have become my spanners of choice particularly in restricted areas. Money well spent!