old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: spoonlamp on 12 November 2012, 03:55:50 pm
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Right. I've replaced my written-off red FZS600 for a beautiful silver FZS600!
Only negative I can find with the bike so far after a week of riding is that it steers strongly into the corners. My last one you could practically go round with your hands off the bars but this one I'm having to counter-steer quite a bit.
What would be the cause? Has the rear suspension been raised or something? Anything to do with front forks?
Thanks in advance to any replies.
EDIT: Thanks for moving this to the correct section of the forum :D
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some people fit jack up kits which would make it steer quicker. there is some info quite recently about how long standard dogbones should be. do a quick search for jack up kits.
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Check the tyres. A squared off rear makes it harder to turn in.
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yeah could be old or oversize tyres
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ime with the dude on this one ;) ...check the size of your front tyre!!....should be a 110/70...anything else will/can cause you probs?...if your doing lots of counter steering?..mabe you got a 120 on front???? :rolleyes
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as already said,jacked up rear,stiffer rear spring(or set stiffer) lowered or softer front forks,tyres different sizes,brands or pressures to what your used to i changed tyres on my last bike and bike felt totally different even tho were same sizes and pressures
i prefere bike to be quick into turns rather than muscle it around but thats just my personal choice!
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When i changed from a bridgestone bt45 tyre to bridgestone bt23 i had to stiffen the front suspension because the bike turned in too quickly.
maybe your problem is in reverse, do/did both bikes have the same tyre?
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Yeah, my immediate thought was a 120 front tyre!
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Check the tyre sizes front and rear.
They should be 110/70 * 17 front and 160/60 * 17 rear
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Thanks for the responses guys.
Front tyre is 110/70 (Battlax BT020) Rear is a 160/60 both are in good nick, no squaring. I had a quick look at the suspension and it does look like maybe it's been let out a little. I'll try and tighten that and see how much difference it makes.
Thanks for replies.
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If the fork oil levels are wrong that can cause unstable steering as well.
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Tyre Pressures?????
Standard is 32/33psi front and 36/37 psi rear
To soft at the front can cause similar symptons
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have you got a fat bird on the back? that'll lighten the steering :lol
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Tyre pressures are all good - looks like it's just me. It's my second Fazer so I was assuming it would be exactly the same handling as my last. Think I just need to get used to it being a little more twitchy cornering at low speeds...
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Unfortunately no two vehicles (same make and model) are the same - I've had two Mk 2 Golfs and they were ridiculously different despite having the same engine and gearbox and I even swapped over the wheels / tyres
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are the front forks dropped a small bit?
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I'd still check the fork oil....... :rolleyes
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I'd still check the fork oil....... :rolleyes
would be a bit awkward to do though wouldn't it? he'd have to take the forks out just to check the oil. if you're going down that route you might as well replace the oil
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Yeah, if you've got it apart, which is a bit of a pain, then you may as well change the oil, but then again the bike is new to him so maybe there's no record of when it was last changed so it's one of those jobs to get out of the way, especially as there is an issue with steering anyway. If it's not that, then at least you don't have to worry about the oil again for quite a while, and you've also eliminated that as the cause.
The reason i suggested it was because i bought a Honda off a workmate years ago who didn't live too far from me, and when i went to go around a roundabout i nearly dropped the bike because, as i later found out, the levels were totally different in each fork.
When i mentioned it he said he never felt anything wrong? :rolleyes
Just a thought.......
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Thanks for those suggestions - I'm probably going to get the oil in the forks changed (or replaced) to 15W anyway, see if it takes any wallow out of the front end on braking so it'll sort that out. Not sure about the forks being lowered, I'll need to find out what they should be and get a measuring tape out I guess! lol
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I think what His Dudeness means is are the forks flush at the top, or poking up a bit above the yoke, where the forks are clamped?
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I think what His Dudeness means is are the forks flush at the top, or poking up a bit above the yoke, where the forks are clamped?
Ah I get you. Looks like they have the same slight bit as my last one did. Let me see if I can attach wee photie...
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What's that, about 5mm?
Shouldn't be an issue at all.
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That is normal as the raised bit is the fork caps. The line under the caps should be in in with the top of the yolk.
I would suggest you remove the forks, drain the oil and replace it with 10w and ensure you have an air gap of 121mm (4.75inches), that air gap is more important than many think. The air gap is checked after filling the fork leg with oil and before replacing the springs and spacers with the fork leg fully compressed standing upright. The distance the oil is from the top of the fork leg should be 121mm. More than 121mm will make the forks feel softer and less than121mm will make them feel harder. I usually fill the fork a bit more than is needed and then using a syringe with a tube at the end cut to the length I require and resting it on the top of the fork leg suck out the excess oil. Repeat the process for the second leg. Then replace the springs spacers and fork cap.
A word of advice loosen the top clamp bolt before loosening the fork cap and tighten the fork cap before tightening the top clamp bolt.
Forgot to add the air gap is 132mm (5.2 inches) in the models with fork adjusters,
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ime with the dude on this one ;) ...check the size of your front tyre!!....should be a 110/70...anything else will/can cause you probs?...
WALOB!
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Say what you mean Lumpy :rollin
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Say what you mean Lumpy :rollin
eek. I thought that was subtle but to the point :'(
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One item forgotton here is the rear shock. Is it standard or after market.
If standard adjust the preload to the hardest position and try the bike to see if it has improved. this makes th e bike sit higher at the rear putting more weight on the front
A soft rear shock can take the weight of the front and make it more difficult to turn in.
If it is aftermarket adjust the preload to make it sit higher at the rear.turn it one ring at the time (tighten the spring) to see if it improves.Trial and error so may take a few trys to get it right.
Usually the static sag start point is 25 mm at the front and 12mm at the rear.
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Check the tyres. A squared off rear makes it harder to turn in.
You and the Dudeness had it bang on. I just put a new front tyre on and she's back to her beautiful smooth cornering :)
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I'd still check the fork oil....... :rolleyes
would be a bit awkward to do though wouldn't it? he'd have to take the forks out just to check the oil. if you're going down that route you might as well replace the oil
I owned a bike once (can't remember now) that had a little philips screw on the bottom of each leg that allowed complete draining of the fork.....very handy.
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Steering head bearings too tight / too loose / banjaxed?
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Check the tyres. A squared off rear makes it harder to turn in.
You and the Dudeness had it bang on. I just put a new front tyre on and she's back to her beautiful smooth cornering :)
Problem solved, many thanks for the help . If threads can be deleted, feel free :)
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The information here may assist people with similar issues in the future, its worth keeping it around :)
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The information here may assist people with similar issues in the future, its worth keeping it around :)
Good point, well presented.
Carry on :lol