old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: phillywilly on 26 September 2012, 09:36:10 pm
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just accepted a new job that is a 70 mile round trip per day and was thinking of using the fazer in the spring /summer to get there but because its only 600 cc i was thinking that it wouldnt be up to the job -even tho its only done 25 k and regularly serviced.
does anyone else commute on their bike this distance in the good weather ?- i know its only 70 miles per day but that would be 5 days per week (weather permitting )
perhaps we should have a sticky thread on here stating how many miles our bikes have done and if they are on first engines ;)
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there's several people gone over 100k on the original engine. Its quite capable of handling 70miles a day.
Ride more, worry less ;)
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100 k on original engine !! christ - i know of a lot of cars knackered before that :eek
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Sounds an ideal way to start and finish the working day (weather permitting). The bike is also ideal for the task. :)
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I've never understood why people think cars should be knackered at/around 100k. As long as you maintain as per service schedule, and have some mechanical sympathy (i.e. don't thrash them when cold, etc etc), there's no reason why ANY modern engine shouldn't go on and on. My previous car had done 180k when I sold it, and still pulled like a train, the one before that 125k, much the same, and the current one is on 119k - no signs of any issue at all (thats torn it :lol ). Still it means I can buy a bargain, since the value drops markedly once a car hits that 6 figure mileage, so suits me ;)
I don't know what people are doing to theirs, to kill them so quickly. My 180k car, only went due to some horrible noises it was making - I later found from the dealer I traded it in to, that the noise was the rear pads coming away from their backing plate. If I'd known that, I'd still Have the car now (and it'd be at around 200k)
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thanks for making my mind up guys :D (weather permitting ) by the way - what is the best way of warming them up ?leave it ticking over for a few mins or ride it at low revs for first couple of miles ?
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Don't just leave it ticking over!!! Just ride gently below 4-5k revs for the first few miles.
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I would let it tick over while you put on your jacket,helmet & gloves,knockoff the choke fully when able & ride. :)
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:agree clayt74 - as soon as its idling well (even if a bit of choke on!), ride away gently and smoothly. keep the revs low, and low throttle, until she's nice and warm.
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My commute is 35 miles and the bike thrives on it... especially the battery which is still the original one. :)
As for warming it up: I don't annoy the neighbours by letting it idle, just take it gently for the first few minutes.
Cars: never had an engine fail, it's always been the bodywork rusting away that has sent them to the knacker's yard. :'(
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As above.
Modern diesels aren't even run in properly until a 100k.
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Completely agree with all sentiments. I've got two Mark 2 Golfs (1988 and 1991 models) the first is on 170k and doing fine, the later is on 225k and is only beginning to have a little trouble but the body work is full of holes - rust has completely killed that car :(
I'm 99% sure that someone on here said that they have had an original Fazer engine up to 160k before changing it and even then it was still working.
Also as just mentioned, Diesel engines are strong and typically last a lot longer. Had to sell my dads 406 which had 218k on the clock and there was nothing wrong with it
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Cold, wet, miserable mornings, i let my bike tick over for a good ten minutes, with a loud exhaust.........i don't like my neighbours though :lol
Dunno why, but they don't seem too keen on me either, but i don't slam doors at 4am every morning next to my bedroom so they can go and do one........ :rolleyes
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Yep, your bike will be up to it without a problem. I tend to let mine idle and warm up whilst I get kitted up (that said, I've got the later bike which doesn't have a choke).
Darrsi: your neighbours sound as annoying as mine! These plebs have arguments at 2am...
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One thing i've not mentioned before, i have 'Activ8' added to my oil, and i know there will be mixed views about it but the bike starts on the first button with no effort at all every time!
I saw a demo of it at a bike show and was quite impressed. It's probably on YouTube too.
http://www.activ8lubricants.com/faq-page#t4n23 (http://www.activ8lubricants.com/faq-page#t4n23)
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I did 300 miles a week on my FZS600 commuting AND an additional average 100 miles a weekend over 4 years (stacked up lots of miles, had around 67000 when I sold it
It never missed a beat in all that time of ownership. Its a brilliant engine
I also echo what has been said above RE mileage, I own an old MK2 Zetec Mondeo which has done 130K and is still a sweet as the day I bought it with 70K on the clock.
I regret selling my Fazer 600
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your bike and you will be fine doing tem low miles per day,the fuel you will prob save against use your car will soon add to to a nice little 'pot' just keep on top of the servicing and do plenty of checks on oil,chain,tyres etc and enjoy the ride
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Yep to all above, I rode my 600 right through the winter this year.
Just wash it once a week to get the crud off and lube the chain, also once a week and all will be fine.
70 miles a day, 60 mpg average commuting riding and jobs a good un..
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I do 120 miles/day on mine, it's more than up to the job provided maintenance is kept up. It's a reasonably comfy place to be for such a long commute also, better than the '09 CBF600 I had for a while. Done 9k in four months :D It's never been washed (besides a bit of spit and a tissue to clean the headlamp, if that counts :lol ) but the chain, tyres, lights etc all get checked weekly.
In the mornings I tend to wheel it to the pavement, start it up and ride off. Idling isn't a good way to warm an engine up, plus I leave at 6.30 and don't want to piss my neighbours off too much ;)
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I agree with all the below, all my bikes and cars have done huge mileages, luckily my son is a motor technician so they are regularly serviced.
[/size][/color]Don't clean any of them more than I have too, but check oil, tyres and chains on bikes weekly, both bikes have Scottoilers which are a boon, the R1 also has heated grips[/font] :rolleyes
[/size][/color]Most of my cars have gone around the clock and Yamaha engines are so strong, even with high mileage, still perform well[/font] 8)
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I have a couple of customers who have FZS600s that have clocked over 100k and I used to have a FZS1000 that had 155k on it before the gearbox let go. You just have to look after them and they will rack up mega miles.
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Short answer NO
Just keep up the regular maintenance and it should be fine. Obviously the maintenance intervals will come around more often and don't skimp on the maintenance as it is false economy. Mine has 72000 miles on it and still going well
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One thing i've not mentioned before, i have 'Activ8' added to my oil, and i know there will be mixed views about it but the bike starts on the first button with no effort at all every time!
and how is this relevant to starting? Mine has dinosaur oil and starts in all weather with no choke.
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@Lumpy, aren't you the lucky one, maybe you should give the bike a treat one day and consider changing it! :rolleyes
It was totally relevant to starting, especially in very cold weather!
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@Lumpy, aren't you the lucky one, maybe you should give the bike a treat one day and consider changing it! :rolleyes
It was totally relevant to starting, especially in very cold weather!
change it? It gets changed regularly. Dinosaur oil acts in the same manner as synthetic, which is at the end of the day is dinosaur oil, if it is the same grade. So the question stands. What difference does the oil, you refer to, make to starting? I assume most of us are using the correct grade and synthetic is just a waste of time on the Fazer and isn't recommended although it rarely does harm. Use 20/50 and you may get a minor difference in the really cold weather but even that won't make that much difference to start up. Use EP90 and it might though :lol
A case of aspirations beyond capabilities here methinks :rolleyes
On another matter related in here, letting the bike tickover increses engine wear considerably and is no good for the engine at all. Look it up if you don't believe it :z
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Years ago engines werent machined to such close tolerances and the lubricants were less "sophisticated". Running in was a long drawn out process, valves needed grinding & cylinder heads had to be decarbonised fairly often. I would consider it very strange if any properly serviced modern car/bike engine didnt go round the clock at least once. Was talking to a mechanic friend & he was saying that running in is still important but the main thing was to avoid loading/straining the engine & avoid over-revving in first few hundred miles. REGULAr oil & filter changes using the makers recommended grade of oil for local conditions. The greatest wear occurs on start up before the oil is up to temp & circulating & the best advice with modern vehicles is to drive straight off but avoid putting the engine under excessive stress -at least let the motor reach operating temp. There is a lot of rubbish talked about oils Its the SAE/JASO spec & viscosity rating that counts-forget the packaging & marketing hype & be suspicious of claims that the oil is good for 20,000milesetc. One of the worst things to do to any bike/car fitted with manual choke is to leave it warming up with choke out. The excess fuel just washes all the lubricant off the cylinder walls leading to premature wear :eek
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@Lumpy, well thanks for all your advice 'cos i am still a bit green after 25yrs of riding bikes daily........ :rolleyes
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I have been doing similar 60 mile commute for last year and half now, thru winter too. I am sure bike is more than good for the distance, but there are few things that could go wrong:
Downpipes. I usually wash the bike once a month and spray stuff etc to keep the rust off, but downpipes rusted thru and went all holy and later a huge gap opened up and I had to change it. So unless you have stainless steel downpipes, you are going to have a to keep a close eye on them throughout the year, but doubly so when the roads are salted.
Service. You would need at least one complete service a year, imho and plenty of oil tops etc too. My front brakes were binding (?), which I had serviced, and now the rear brakes seems to be binding once warm. It has started scarring the rear brake disk, so I need to get it serviced asap as well.
I suppose none of this is surprising - regular commuting = regular maintenance.
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@Lumpy, well thanks for all your advice 'cos i am still a bit green after 25yrs of riding bikes daily........ :rolleyes
no probs. Sounds like it. Time left yet though :lol Only 25 years, just a youngster then ;)
Some people have been doing stuff for years and getting it wrong. But don't take it to heart. :evil
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mine doesn't get washed very much at all. Stainless downpipes and a Fazer thou caliper have helped no end to stave off the excesses of the weather. Mine does at least 250 miles per week, normally more, in all weathers including snow unless completely unrideable. Do wash the salt off with cold water though just to give her a chance. No corrosion problems if ACF 50 is used in certain areas.
darrsi is the chap to ask, he knows everything after 25 years riding :evil
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@Lumpy
What exactly am i doing wrong then in your specialist opinion........erm, nothing!!! :rolleyes
You do realise that this forum is here for people to help others, and bearing in mind i never actually had a problem on this particular occasion then you are more or less behaving like an internet troll and taking a cheap shot for a reaction, which is all a bit of a bore to me to be honest, so how about we just agree to disagree and leave it at that?
By all means if you actually want to give some good advice, which i'm sure you have mountains of, then maybe you could attempt to write in a bit more of a friendlier manner in the future!
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@Lumpy
What exactly am i doing wrong then in your specialist opinion........erm, nothing!!! :rolleyes
Don't be so sensitive young man. It's just my daft humour I'm afraid. Nothing is meant by it, apologies if it comes across badly.
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Cool ;)
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i do a 72 mile a day round trip commute. Bikes been fine for the last 2 months and that started on circa 32k... Its good fun. Doesn't buzz too much at 70mph and is a great way to start and end the day, which reminds me... Its home time!
out of interest what are the service intervals?
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I change the oil every 4000 and filter at 8000. Plugs and air filter inspection at 8K too.
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Years ago engines werent machined to such close tolerances and the lubricants were less "sophisticated". Running in was a long drawn out process, valves needed grinding & cylinder heads had to be decarbonised fairly often. I would consider it very strange if any properly serviced modern car/bike engine didnt go round the clock at least once. Was talking to a mechanic friend & he was saying that running in is still important but the main thing was to avoid loading/straining the engine & avoid over-revving in first few hundred miles. REGULAr oil & filter changes using the makers recommended grade of oil for local conditions. The greatest wear occurs on start up before the oil is up to temp & circulating & the best advice with modern vehicles is to drive straight off but avoid putting the engine under excessive stress -at least let the motor reach operating temp. There is a lot of rubbish talked about oils Its the SAE/JASO spec & viscosity rating that counts-forget the packaging & marketing hype & be suspicious of claims that the oil is good for 20,000milesetc. One of the worst things to do to any bike/car fitted with manual choke is to leave it warming up with choke out. The excess fuel just washes all the lubricant off the cylinder walls leading to premature wear :eek
All true. Except that not all oils are the same. Not even every petrol. Sometimes differences are so vast you can feel it. Gearbox behaviour, etc.
Anyway, I heard that ester oils (motul semi and full synth) offer better cold start protection. Molecules stick on the cylinder sides longer, providing wear protection. The only time I tried to go cheap on oil made the engine bust. Extremely unlucky set of circumstances, but I've never went for anything but quality full synth ever since and have had no problems at al. Woud I be trouble free with dyno oil as well? Probably, but 10e difference per oil change is not worth my peace of mind.
70 mile round trip shoud be no problem for the machine. What you should worry about is YOU. Will you be rested, concentrated? Riding a bike is nice, but also more challenging than driving a car. One second of absentmindedness and you're in a ditch. Be careful, enjoy. Fazer is the last thing you should worry about.
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"All true. Except that not all oils are the same. Not even every petrol. Sometimes differences are so vast you can feel it. Gearbox behaviour, etc. "
Funny that, I've changed from Silkolene semi to HG own brand semi and the gear box feels "crunchier" as a result,,,
Apparently it's based on Motul.
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Current mileage....
108,108
Never washed, never serviced and in all weather for the past year and a half. Fucking bulletproof
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not quite
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m595/LumpyXX/111122Fazer600bits002Large.jpg)
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WOW!
Tell us the story,,,,,
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WOW!
Tell us the story,,,,,
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ma3ii0NOBN1qhdngho1_400.jpg)
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WOW!
Tell us the story,,,,,
I was riding it, joining the motorway, and it exploded. That's all really.
see thread http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,618.0.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,618.0.html)
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faulty batch is all
:)