Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: PieEater on 29 June 2012, 09:25:43 am
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Following Mike doing the "Full Monty" on my bike last year I finally managed to get the bike to a Dyno. I had 2 sets of runs the first with the baffle fitted in my Fuel can and the second with the baffle removed, I thought the results were worth sharing as they show significant improvements in peak figures, delivery and fueling when running with no baffle. The tester was very impressed with the fueling and with the power that the bike was making, so kudos to Ivan and Mike. I'd also reccomend Somerton Motorcycle Engineering (http://www.somerton-motorcycle-engineering.co.uk/) in Somerset for any bike related work, very friendly knowledgable blokes who do the full range from restoring classics using their engineering facilities to prepping and racing track bikes.
(http://www.pjwebster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Dyno_02.jpg)
(http://www.pjwebster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Dyno_01.jpg)
(http://www.pjwebster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Dyno_03.jpg)
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Good charts . My local dyno at rencullen tested mine a couple of years back with a max of 137 with baffles in. So the figures are comparable, as a few bhp variance between machines is typical. Its the flat torque curve you are after , and the fuel air ratio. Looks very good.
A very healthy increase over stock. :)
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more torque at the bottom with the baffle in? that would be my preference for a road bike.
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Had my completely standard FZS dynoed at 126 rear wheel bhp, then had Mike fit a Full Monty, both in early 2014.
Only just got around to having it dynoed with the Ivan's kit on and a MIVV exhaust with baffle out, but somewhat disappointed to see that it was only 128bhp (based upon 140 crank bhp less correction factor).
I'm guessing the exhaust alone should have given me that :-/
Got to go back to my dyno-man, to get a rear wheel print-out, so I can overlay and compare the shape of the graphs - maybe it's filled it out elsewhere on the curve???
For certain, the Ivan's kit has made the bike MUCH more controllable - probably worth it for that alone, but even the Ivan's website says I should be getting 135 - 140bhp.
SO.......going to book it in somewhere next month to check it out and see where my missing 10 horsepower are.
When I can find the dyno graphs, I'll post them up here, but something clearly isn't right.
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dynojet systems tend to run about 5%-7% higher than most systems its well documented. Still a very impressive output i enjoyed the ride out on my dad's full monty gen1 yesterday.
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Had my completely standard FZS dynoed at 126 rear wheel bhp, then had Mike fit a Full Monty, both in early 2014.
Only just got around to having it dynoed with the Ivan's kit on and a MIVV exhaust with baffle out, but somewhat disappointed to see that it was only 128bhp (based upon 140 crank bhp less correction factor).
I'm guessing the exhaust alone should have given me that :-/
Got to go back to my dyno-man, to get a rear wheel print-out, so I can overlay and compare the shape of the graphs - maybe it's filled it out elsewhere on the curve???
For certain, the Ivan's kit has made the bike MUCH more controllable - probably worth it for that alone, but even the Ivan's website says I should be getting 135 - 140bhp.
SO.......going to book it in somewhere next month to check it out and see where my missing 10 horsepower are.
When I can find the dyno graphs, I'll post them up here, but something clearly isn't right.
There's something not right with these results........I had the Ivans Slip On version then upgraded to full monty....results below
Standard - 128
Slip On - 134.21
Full Monty 139.54
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I dont believe that there is 10hp difference between two bikes with the same modifications but I can easily believe there could be 10hp difference between different dynos measuring the same bike.
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i can believe 10 brake difference between two of the same bike. every engine will have different materials and tolerances from new and then wildly different histories - the difference between a carefully serviced engine that's warmed up gently every time it's used with a decent mileage (run in and not worn out) and a non-serviced engine thrashed from cold regularly will be significant. Then factor in different air on the dyno on the day (hot day vs cold day or even time of day) and 10 brake difference? yes.
it's worth bearing in mind too that yamaha (no different to any other manufacturer) will select maybe 10 healthy engines from their production facility (maybe 'specially' built or re-built) and measure the output of them all and then quote the best figure from them before we even start trying to achieve that with our bikes that are at least ten years old now....