old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Enceladus on 03 June 2012, 03:31:41 pm
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any tips on how to get the oil drain plug out ?
mine is really stuck in fast !
got a magnetic one to replace it with but need to change the oil and filter first !
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they're not normally *that* tight.
are you sure it's the drain plug you're attacking?
you are trying to undo it? it's easy to go the wrong direction working upside down.
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it's the 17mm nut right by the side stand
just behind part of the frame where you can't get a socket in
hope thats the right one.
tried "cracking" it (tighten to loosen) and just undoing it but no joy so far.
might try and get the engine nice and warm, then spraying a small amount of water on the plug to shrink it fractionally.
any suggestions ?
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Thats the one, personally Im always dubious about tightening to un-tighten, especially in alloy. Arm yourself with a four pound lump hammer and give it a clout with that, you wont need to really belt it. Thats how I do mine. Oh and have a bloody big drip tray, the stupid location of the plug means the old oil doesnt go where you want it to go.
PS: that a clever idea about the cold water, it hadnt occurred to me but then a lot of things dont :lol
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couple of sharp taps with a mallet on the spanner normally does it but I won't be responsible for stripped thread!
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thanks guys :)
just to confirm.......
looking at the nut, i need to turn it anti-clockwise to undo.
right ?
(half asleep at the mo for some reason!)
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that's correct. righty tighty, lefty loosey.
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that's correct. righty tighty, lefty loosey.
thanks
thats a good way to remember it !
i'll try and remember that one!
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you might want to quit while yer ahead and let a mechanic do it
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you might want to quit while yer ahead and let a mechanic do it
nah
done an engine change on a combine harvester before with pallets, pallet truck, scaffolding pole and lots of swearing so i'm sure i can make this work :)
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think most of us on here!...would have used...spanners and sockets??? :rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes .....
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think most of us on here!...would have used...spanners and sockets??? :rolleyes :rolleyes :rolleyes .....
that was the easy bit!
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just hope the last person who had it didnt cross thread the bstd when they tightened it up??????????? :'(
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the best way imo to change your oil (if you ever get plug out)... :rolleyes ....woul be to stand your bike on side stand (inside a old wash bowl) and after oil drained just wipe off stand and you away?? no oil on floor!!! job a gud un?? :) :)
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just hope the last person who had it didnt cross thread the bstd when they tightened it up??????????? :'(
i'm hoping that as well
got my tap set on standby just in case ! :eek :'(
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Oh and have a bloody big drip tray, the stupid location of the plug means the old oil doesnt go where you want it to go.
I found this out the hard way, the tray I had wasn't quite in the right position (damn stand was in the way) and it overflowed the sides and went bloody everywhere. Pretty sure only half the engine oil was caught in the tray... I spent the next 20 mins using sawdust to clean up the oil that was all over the driveway. Next time - BIG ASS BUCKET! :P
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More people mistakenly overtighten fasteners "just to be on the safe side" than undertighten. Best to beg/borrow/steal a torque wrench particularly tightening steel into alloy. Mistakes can prove expensive. Please dont use agricultural techniques! :eek :lol
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Crikey, a whole discussion on how to undo one bolt...........you lot are making me feel like a mechanical genius :rollin :rollin :rollin
You could always oil it.......oh, wait a minute....... :lol
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Crikey, a whole discussion on how to undo one bolt...........you lot are making me feel like a mechanical genius :rollin :rollin :rollin
You could always oil it.......oh, wait a minute....... :lol
lmao !
just a thought.....
would putting a bit of copper grease on the threads of the new bolt help for next time ?
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Dont bother mate, copper grease is really best for threads that are likely to seize through corrosion, if you use copper greas on the plug some will find its way into the new oil and that means that youve got particles of copper floating around in there, will probably have zero effect but wont help either. You shouldnt have any trouble at future oil changes if you use a good quality ring spanner.
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Oh and have a bloody big drip tray, the stupid location of the plug means the old oil doesnt go where you want it to go.
Can be avoided by cutting a small pop bottle in half lengthways and tucking one end of it betwen frame and engine.
Diverts it out sideways.
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Hi
Yea same here I use a short length of plastic guttering
ATB YFM
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So - my comment is:
"If you can't get a socket onto it (which I found too) - how are you supposed to use a torque wrench to tighten to the recommended 43(?)mM???"
I guess you simply don't?
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Exactly what I thought on Saturday...I did it up as tight as I could manage with a 7" ring spanner then gave that a few soft knocks with my mole grips. Seems to have stayed tight anyway.
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Basically, tighten it up to bolt shear, then back it off a quarter turn!
I jest.
On the drain plug, you should be using a new crush washer at each change. These are not expensive and it takes little effort to actually "crush" the washer to help form the seal with the grease you should also apply.
tbh, find a good bike mechanic and have them do it - the money you "save" by buying the oil catching tray and other improvised devices, oil itself, oil filter, crush washer, probably replacement plug bolt, paying for oil disposal, mess on your drive/garage floor etc. it is not worth the sh@g and hassle.
I did an oil change once and the filter was a pain to get off. Drove a screwdriver through it to get it off and scarred my fingers for life on the sharp edges. Total nightmare, support your local industries!
fish.
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More people mistakenly overtighten fasteners "just to be on the safe side" than undertighten. Best to beg/borrow/steal a torque wrench particularly tightening steel into alloy. Mistakes can prove expensive. Please dont use agricultural techniques! :eek :lol
Never has a truer word been spoken. Whilst changing my rear brake pads a few days ago, I decided for the first time in ages to actaully torque the bolts to the right torque. I was amazed when tightening them with a normal ratchet I was already over the 40Nm required and had to back them off!!!
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@fishwibbler
If you can't cope with a simple, and it is simple, oil change then you must work in I.T. ?
Tighten the bolt comfortably by hand, job done.......it ain't going nowhere! :eek
Get an oil filter wrench, or even easier, buy an oil filter with a nut head on it, to make life really easy. You don't need 'crush' washers at all?
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Hey! I work in I.T and like to think that im somewhat mechanically oriented as well :P
Id also suggest, that you -may- save money on the first oil change. But the money spent on the accessories is a one off - therefore making every subsequent change cheaper :) Also, since when do you have to pay to dispose of oil?! Just take it to your local tip, they usually have a place to dispose of it. There is a phone number to find your local one on practically every bottle of oil I have ever seen and im sure there is a website somewhere as well.
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Apologies Dead Eye, i was expecting an iffy response, what i meant to say was 'Knitting Champion' :lol :lol :lol
(please tell me there's no Champion Knitting Foccers on this website?) :rollin
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Haha, its ok, no offense taken ;)
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Hey, I'm offended as my knitting and IT skills are exemplary!
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Acknowledged, i do actually need a new knitted number plate, and my I.T. skills are pants...... :lol
I will help anyone on here, BUT, i have a dark sense of humour that i can't control, so please don't take me seriously at all, unless i'm trying to help you, because sometimes i can't help myself........i do mean well, honestly.... :D
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got it off...... eventually.
got the bike nice and warm and sprayed (carefully) some cold water on theplug for 10 mins or so, then cracked and loosened the nut.
looks like the bloke who had the bike before me was hanging off the spanner he used to tighten it!
muppet !
found a good use for the waste oil also !
my grandad wanted it to keep his garden tools in (spade, fork, etc.) to stop them going rusty!
takes all sorts ! :D
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if u cant aford a torch wench. use a very short ring spanner imagine its cut in half. u wont over tighten it then. always new crush washer. then do it up to the corect tightness by going for ft. ft = fuggin tite.
this thread has me in stiches. is your job i t. no. its a nut. sorry. oh i gota read it again. an i karnt even spel.
what's next.. The best way to press the button to start the bike. :lol
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All Good advice. I would def make sure got a new drain plug bolt, as bound to round it off, as as someone said a new crush washer. to Torque it up, I cut down (in length) an old 17mm Socket and used a bendy coupling, (you know the ones I mean)...
Only leaves just enough 1/4 inch square drive to do the job, but it works. Don't try and do the bolt up using the socket as not enough room to frame, just for torquing up.
Fubar!!
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You cut a socket.......really??
And "....i'm not convinced by the manual, but it's not been wrong before?...." :rollin
Off the top of my head without me looking i'd guess the drainage bolt is at the bottom of the water pump, which will have the large hose connected to it on the left hand side, to the left of the oil bolt.
The manual isn't there to trick you though, you can put a bit more faith in it. :lol