Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: Dudeofrude on 25 June 2020, 02:59:34 pm
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So went out for a ride earlier and all was going well but as I pulled up at a petrol station I noticed the bike sounded a little rough. Didn't think much to it and put it down to the fact I've got a new chain and 'silent' sprockets so have been hearing more random noises than usual due to the quoter drive train.
Anyway it started to sound worse and everytime I can to a stop it started to sound more and more 'chuggy' sort of like a twin? But this was only on idle. It would fluctuate between 800-900 to 1200-1300rpm and be really rough. Also started back firing like a twat on every over run or gear change.
Managed to get back to my house and literally as I pulled up outside and put the bike into neutral it cut out, engine light came on and wouldn't restart! Now if I try to start it the whole system goes off and restarts (like the battery has suddenly failed) and just kicks up an error code 46.
I've checked and that indicates an error with the 'vehicle system power supply'
So what do we think the issue is? I've never known a battery to fail like that? Not to affect the engine running etc and certainly not while running?
So am I going to be looking at something more substantial? Something like a rectifier maybe?
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some times when a battery fails , it only fails to take a new charge , which means it has charge left in it !
so you start and ride round but as the battery slowly uses up that charge the bike starts to run rougher and rougher !
until there is no charge left and it dies
it does sound like this but
it could be as simple as a corroded connecter some where or if the noises you were hearing were mechanical
maybe alternator issues
I saw something about the magnets failing out.
I don't know much about gen 2's but then I don't know much about gen 1's either !
if you can borrow a battery and try it before forking out for a new one
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Thanks Snapper. After googling the code its coming back with a lot of stator implosions 😱😱
I bludy hope it isn't but will have to wait and see after I've stripped some stuff down and had a look.
Just waiting for the battery to charge at the minute
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Changing the stator is fairly simple TBH I did mine only around 2-3 weeks ago and used the RM stator which cost me around £220 all in with a new gasket. I still have the original one which had nothing wrong with it.
Hope it's just the battery :thumbup
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Thank Fazian... me too haha
Changing the Stator is one of them jobs thats been on the to do list for a while but with its being preventative instead of an upgrade it always gets moved down haha horrible spending that sort of Money on something that won't make the blindest bit of difference.... until it does 😬
Well I've just had my multimeter out and been doing some investigation bit I have to say electronics are not my strong point but this is what I've come up with
Tried jumping it off an old car battery but couldn't even get the starter to engage or click.
Tested the battery and it was only holding 11.8V so that's gone on charge.
Took the rectifier off and tested that, getting a constant reading (5.7ish) across all 3 positive points, so guessing that's OK?
Tested the connector coming from the stator and that had a positive reading so should be good?
Checked all accessible fuses and all OK except the external charger one (which would explain why the trickle charger hasn't been doing anything)
After plugging everything back in the starter now engages and attempts one short sharp turn before the whole bike dies then reboots itself (as with a dead battery) so I'm optimistic its the battery thats finally given the up (was only £30 4 years ago haha)
I will give that a few hours on charge and see whats what.
Unless anyone else has any suggestions for me to try in the meantime?
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Well crisis seems to be averted for now. Charged the battery for a few hours and stuck it back in. Bike fired up straight away and ran fine.
The battery is knackered as after nearly 4 hours on charge it still only managed to get to 13v and after checking with the multimeter it seems to be losing charge at a rate of 0.01 every 10 seconds or so.
So new battery getting ordered and hopefully thats the end of that
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Well crisis seems to be averted for now. Charged the battery for a few hours and stuck it back in. Bike fired up straight away and ran fine.
The battery is knackered as after nearly 4 hours on charge it still only managed to get to 13v and after checking with the multimeter it seems to be losing charge at a rate of 0.01 every 10 seconds or so.
So new battery getting ordered and hopefully thats the end of that
check your reg/rec and stator regardless, you probably haven't fixed the problem, you can chuck fresh batteries on there all day if the bike ain't charging them!
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Check the voltage across the battery when the bike is running at 6500k, you should have 14v if so the charging system is fine. Hopefully what you've got is a badly discharged battery in which case you just need to replace it. ;)
I'd also suggest you look into how this has happened, or it very possible it will just happen again. One of the biggest causes is cheap batteries, some mainly Chinese ones are just crap, especially gel types, OE spec (Yuasa) is around £80 odd, you can get a Chinese rip off for as low as £20 odd and everything in between. They aren't in most cases apples for apples either OE is 11Ah and 230v ish, cheaper are 9Ah and 150v ish, the latter will not last.
It's up to you but as with everything you get what you pay for, my advice go for OE, or if you're on a budget something like Varta. As you found out and just got away with it, they fail without warning luckily you made it home, had you not you'd be looking at recovery and all the potential cost and inconvenience that goes with it.
Fingers crossed just a naff battery :)
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Check the voltage across the battery when the bike is running at 6500k, you should have 14v if so the charging system is fine. Hopefully what you've got is a badly discharged battery in which case you just need to replace it. ;)
I'd also suggest you look into how this has happened, or it very possible it will just happen again. One of the biggest causes is cheap batteries, some mainly Chinese ones are just crap, especially gel types, OE spec (Yuasa) is around £80 odd, you can get a Chinese rip off for as low as £20 odd and everything in between. They aren't in most cases apples for apples either OE is 11Ah and 230v ish, cheaper are 9Ah and 150v ish, the latter will not last.
It's up to you but as with everything you get what you pay for, my advice go for OE, or if you're on a budget something like Varta. As you found out and just got away with it, they fail without warning luckily you made it home, had you not you'd be looking at recovery and all the potential cost and inconvenience that goes with it.
Fingers crossed just a naff battery :)
Just did that this morning actually and there definitely a problem ☹
The reading is 12.58 while the bike is off then once started it drops to 11.99/12.01
The battery is knackered as I couldnt even get it to charge to more than 13v in the first place so its getting replaced. It was a cheap one as it was bought as a quick fix at a time when i was running a bit skint but to be fair its lasted nearly 4 years so its done well for the £30 it cost haha
Sportsbikeshop currently have the Yuasa on sale at £70 (£40 less than halfords) so will more than likely be going for that.
Question now is how to i test the other parts of the charging system?
I've checked the voltage on the rectifier and seems consistent but honestly don't know what I'm looking at haha
Obviously the last port of call is going to be the stator (as that requires ordering a gasket to check so I will eliminate the ither options first)
I'm getting a positive reading on the multistage from the plug but thats as far as I've looked so far.
Knowing my luck its going to be the rotor magnets 😧😧
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Question now is how to i test the other parts of the charging system?
Mate you just need to
Check the voltage across the battery when the bike is running at 6500k, you should have 14v if so the charging system is fine.
These systems are very reliable in my experience, in the vast majority of cases battery issues are down to cheap batteries. If the voltage rises as the revs increase the charging system is working, if components fail they either don't charge at all or over charge, the latter usually blows the rectifier which means no voltage. Yes there're specific tests for each component but unless you've got a good knowledge of the what they're and the kit your'll wasting your time.
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So do you think the new Yuasa might sort it?
I mean there's only one way to find out I suppose haha
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So do you think the new Yuasa might sort it?
I mean there's only one way to find out I suppose haha
Unless the charging system is working, no battery will sort it. You need to test as mentioned, if you get 14v then yes stick a Yuasa in and forget about it :) Just make sure you hook up to an Optimate or such like for the periods of non use.
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I already did. I said earlier that it only read 11.99v 😔
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I already did. I said earlier that it only read 11.99v 😔
At 6500k?
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No I didn't rev it that high to fair. I'll go try it
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Try this flow chart to assist
https://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf (https://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf)
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Well just tried to test at 6500k. I can't hold it at that time cause its too loud but nothing changed on the multimeter. Its still read 12.09 for the whole time. Revving didn't change anything.
Thanks Trebus
I'll try and decipher that chart and see what I can work out 👍
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Well just tried to test at 6500k. I can't hold it at that time cause its too loud but nothing changed on the multimeter. Its still read 12.09 for the whole time. Revving didn't change anything.
I'll try and decipher that chart and see what I can work out 👍
Ok you should get some voltage increase at 2k ish and above and full 14v at 6.5k. Sadly it's looking likely you do have a stator issue. That's unlucky mate not common in my experience, good luck with the chart, lets us know how you get on.
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Well just tried to test at 6500k. I can't hold it at that time cause its too loud but nothing changed on the multimeter. Its still read 12.09 for the whole time. Revving didn't change anything.
I'll try and decipher that chart and see what I can work out 👍
Ok you should get some voltage increase at 2k ish and above and full 14v at 6.5k. Sadly it's looking likely you do have a stator issue. That's unlucky mate not common in my experience, good luck with the chart, lets us know how you get on.
Yeah I'm getting that feeling too. Question is if its the stator its self or the magnets on the flywheel. Im really hoping its not the later and seeing as it starts and runs without any issue I would say they mist be still attached or surely I'd be hearing some horrible noises coming from the motor?
Also are the £5 gaskets off ebay alright to use? Can't seem to find proper ones anywhere?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362623549211 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362623549211)
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Yeah I'm getting that feeling too. Question is if its the stator its self or the magnets on the flywheel. Im really hoping its not the later and seeing as it starts and runs without any issue I would say they mist be still attached or surely I'd be hearing some horrible noises coming from the motor?
Mate you'd hear nothing if the coil or stator pick up/s are shot. It could be something as simple as a bad connection, or corrosion within a connector/s, have you checked all the multi plugs in the system? If you've got a workshop manual page 8-150 takes you through testing the stator and the rectifier, it's fairly straight forward. They either work or they don't really and as mentioned they're pretty reliable.
Also are the £5 gaskets off ebay alright to use? Can't seem to find proper ones anywhere?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362623549211 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362623549211)
Look here mate No10 https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/6408022/fz1-na-fazer-22c1-2008-010-a/crankcase-cover-1 (https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/6408022/fz1-na-fazer-22c1-2008-010-a/crankcase-cover-1)
I really got no experience with the ebay gasket, but it could be fine, your choice.
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Well following the service manual I managed to test the resistance from the stator coil. The spec was 0.14-0.18 and mine is reading 0.6 across all 3 pins so guessing thats the issue. Going to take the cover off and have a look to see if the magneto is intact 🤞
But looks like I've got some money to spend before she's back on the road
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My question now is how to do I know if its the stator coil or the magneto flywheel??
If all the magnets are in place on the flywheel then does it have to be the stator coil thats gone?
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I got my gasket here, the packet it came in had a genuine Yamaha sticker on it but it did cost me £16 with postage.
http://www.manhattanmotorcycles.co.uk/p/28871/2d11545110-gasket-crankcase-cover-1 (http://www.manhattanmotorcycles.co.uk/p/28871/2d11545110-gasket-crankcase-cover-1)
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My question now is how to do I know if its the stator coil or the magneto flywheel??
If all the magnets are in place on the flywheel then does it have to be the stator coil thats gone?
I can't imagine it would be the stator with the magnets attached that would be the problem as this just connects mechanically to the engine and provides the rotation for the coil that produces the current.
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I got my gasket here, the packet it came in had a genuine Yamaha sticker on it but it did cost me £16 with postage.
[url]http://www.manhattanmotorcycles.co.uk/p/28871/2d11545110-gasket-crankcase-cover-1[/url] ([url]http://www.manhattanmotorcycles.co.uk/p/28871/2d11545110-gasket-crankcase-cover-1[/url])
Cheers for the link 👍
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On the rare occasions I've had to deal with generator issues (not FZ1) it's the coil assembly that's been the problem. That said there was/is an issue with early models of FZ1 08 - 09 in that the magnets became dislodged from the stator drum and stopped charging and/or destroyed themselves, in extreme cases wrecked the motor. Yamaha changed the design of the drum and effectively fitted a sleeve to prevent the magnets from dropping, new part No 2SH-81450-00, old part 5VY-81450-00. Check the part No on yours, if it's the latter, it's very likely this will be your problem and a change of the rotor assembly, could well sort it but wait for it £675 :eek
A contact suggested these https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/types/stator-coils-/flywheel-rotor-yamaha-yzf-r1-fz1-1000-fzs1-fz8-800-2004-2015/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3Nv3BRC8ARIsAPh8hgKQrLj_Vuvh7KUwLSg9UWGR86qCXT-WlLi_ibWkhiMVZ6dqGMa_xjAaAiv6EALw_wcB (https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/types/stator-coils-/flywheel-rotor-yamaha-yzf-r1-fz1-1000-fzs1-fz8-800-2004-2015/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3Nv3BRC8ARIsAPh8hgKQrLj_Vuvh7KUwLSg9UWGR86qCXT-WlLi_ibWkhiMVZ6dqGMa_xjAaAiv6EALw_wcB) £214
Or I found this https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/264477816095?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264477816095&targetid=908661247816&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006675&poi=&campaignid=10199419183&mkgroupid=101401896465&rlsatarget=pla-908661247816&abcId=1145983&merchantid=6995734&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3Nv3BRC8ARIsAPh8hgIFzxnXZRTgU8dux2SbIC4zs8DFYN09BjfGojbrUjUXUfloSRGiakQaAjBfEALw_wcB (https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/264477816095?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264477816095&targetid=908661247816&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006675&poi=&campaignid=10199419183&mkgroupid=101401896465&rlsatarget=pla-908661247816&abcId=1145983&merchantid=6995734&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3Nv3BRC8ARIsAPh8hgIFzxnXZRTgU8dux2SbIC4zs8DFYN09BjfGojbrUjUXUfloSRGiakQaAjBfEALw_wcB) Which is genuine and the later part £370
If it does turn out the rotor assembly is the later type, the coil assembly is then more likely the issue, I'd go for either new £355ish, second hand OE around £150 ish.
Or you could go pattern part as with any pattern part I would advise caution, that's not to say they're wont work, they will, it's just for how long and often they don't quite always fit as they should! You've also got wild variation in cost, Wemto part https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fz1_n/08-09/picture/generator_-_stator (https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fz1_n/08-09/picture/generator_-_stator) is £219ish for what looks like the MPW offering https://www.motorcyclepartswarehouse.co.uk/mpw-pattern-replacement-stator-generator-assembly-yamaha-fz1-fazer-2006-2012.html (https://www.motorcyclepartswarehouse.co.uk/mpw-pattern-replacement-stator-generator-assembly-yamaha-fz1-fazer-2006-2012.html) which is £46.99 not sure if that's inc VAT but that's a huge difference!
Both are probably Chinese copies, it's your choice.
If you've not removes a generator assembly before, undo the centre cap but don't undo the 3 small bolts around the cap cover. Undo all the bolts around the cover these are different sizes, now use a a lager Phillips screwdriver or Allen key to push on the stator drive shaft. This will allow you the remove the coil assembly while keeping the rotor drum in place, it will be very magnetic and require a really good straight pull. If you allow the rotor drum to be extracted with the cover you run the risk of dropping the shaft spacer and washer into the crankcase. Even when you do it this way there's still a risk, but much smaller, once you've got the cover off, very smoothly pull the rotor drum out, the drive gear should remain in place. Now look through the hole in the gear centre, you should see the displaced spacer washer, using the screwdriver/key insert into the gear hole until it stops, now you can pull out the gear, be very careful as behind the washer is the spacer. you should be able to get the gear/washer and spacer onto the screwdriver/key.
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Thanks for the info Gnasher. Very helpful 👌
I've had that £214 one saved for while as its a job I've been meaning to get round to ever since I heard about them failing.
I've watched Andys (andymancam) video of him doing the change and looks simple enough. I'm just waiting for a gasket to show up before I take the cover off for an inspection. I'm guessing that if the flywheel magnets are all still intact then it will have to be the coil thats blown
New battery here Monday so worst case scenario it will have enough power to get it to my mechanic if I can't figure it not myself
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Your're welcome.
I'm not an expert at testing of electrical components, I've got people I can call on if I cn't suss it. One of those contacts suggested following this guide http://https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/how-to-charging-system-fault-finding.294687/ (http://https://www.r1-forum.com/threads/how-to-charging-system-fault-finding.294687/) which should help you identify which of them is giving you the problem, the system here is an R1 but they're the same just follow the values in the FZ1 manual if different. Obviously you need to be able to understand and use an multi tester.
Good luck let's us know how you get on.
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Well brand new Yuasa battery went in today and still no change. Runs at 12.65v and doesn't change while loading the throttle. So now just waiting for the stator cover gasket to arrive and that will be getting whipped off for an inspection.
At this point I'm more or less sure its going to be the magneto issue that they all seem to suffer from so just hoping the magnets are all they and accounted for so I don't have to go fishing in my sump 😬
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daft question time. Have you checked the voltage input on the regulator/rectifier rather than assuming its a generator (coil/magneto issue)? These are known to fail on almost every bike at some point.
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daft question time. Have you checked the voltage input on the regulator/rectifier rather than assuming its a generator (coil/magneto issue)? These are known to fail on almost every bike at some point.
I have to the best of my ability. I'm not 100% sure about the numbers but everything tested came back with consistent readings.
The reason I believe its the rotor is because the bike doesn't get to 14v even while running. From what I've been told that points to the magneto/rotor as the bike is not receiving any charge?
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daft question time. Have you checked the voltage input on the regulator/rectifier rather than assuming its a generator (coil/magneto issue)? These are known to fail on almost every bike at some point.
I have to the best of my ability. I'm not 100% sure about the numbers but everything tested came back with consistent readings.
The reason I believe its the rotor is because the bike doesn't get to 14v even while running. From what I've been told that points to the magneto/rotor as the bike is not receiving any charge?
the regulator/rectifier sits between the coils, which produce AC voltage having had the magnetic field applied and removed rapidly, and the battery, that needs DC voltage.
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daft question time. Have you checked the voltage input on the regulator/rectifier rather than assuming its a generator (coil/magneto issue)? These are known to fail on almost every bike at some point.
I have to the best of my ability. I'm not 100% sure about the numbers but everything tested came back with consistent readings.
The reason I believe its the rotor is because the bike doesn't get to 14v even while running. From what I've been told that points to the magneto/rotor as the bike is not receiving any charge?
the regulator/rectifier sits between the coils, which produce AC voltage having had the magnetic field applied and removed rapidly, and the battery, that needs DC voltage.
Yeah i took the rectifier off and tested the points which as I say came back consistent but I've no clue as to whether that means its working properly?
The other reason I'm convinced its the rotor is that when I tested the lead coming from it the results were all 0.7 when the workshop manual says the spec is 0.14-0.18 so there isn't enough power actually coming from the rotor to the rectifier in the first place
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Is is thread for an FZ1? if so prolly should be move to that section so when the fix is found other FZ1 owner can be made aware.
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Is is thread for an FZ1? if so prolly should be move to that section so when the fix is found other FZ1 owner can be made aware.
It is mate but I originally posted here to get the attention of more members who may have been able to help as not everyone visits every section.
The admin can feel free to move it to the FZ1 section if they want? I have no way of doing that (as far as I know) 👍
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Test the voltage coming from the generator at the plug with the bike running, just a small rev should give you 13v plus, if not it's the stator of the rotor.
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Test the voltage coming from the generator at the plug with the bike running, just a small rev should give you 13v plus, if not it's the stator of the rotor.
Will give that a go shortly then 👍
Stupid question but do I start the bike then unplug the stator from the rectifier? Or will it start without it connected?
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Test the voltage coming from the generator at the plug with the bike running, just a small rev should give you 13v plus, if not it's the stator of the rotor.
Will give that a go shortly then
Stupid question but do I start the bike then unplug the stator from the rectifier? Or will it start without it connected?
Oh forgot to mention, from the generator you'll get AC not DC volts and at idle around 14v if it's good, as you rev it will increase with the revs, 2k =20v, 3k, 30v etc etc up to around 70v ish from memory if it's good.
I think (from memory but I could be wrong) you should be able to get at the wires through the back of the plug that goes into the rectifier. Take a good look at the link I sent you over the weekend ref R1, it's all in there just follow it and remember you've got to do some maths when you test the ohms on the generator.
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Test the voltage coming from the generator at the plug with the bike running, just a small rev should give you 13v plus, if not it's the stator of the rotor.
Will give that a go shortly then
Stupid question but do I start the bike then unplug the stator from the rectifier? Or will it start without it connected?
Oh forgot to mention, from the generator you'll get AC not DC volts and at idle around 14v if it's good, as you rev it will increase with the revs, 2k =20v, 3k, 30v etc etc up to around 70v ish from memory if it's good.
I think (from memory but I could be wrong) you should be able to get at the wires through the back of the plug that goes into the rectifier.
I've been testing it using the ohms setting (resistance) as thats what it said in the service book? And ive tried to get the prongs into the back of the plug but can't do it without damaging the wires
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Just edited my last post, ref Ohms testing take a look.
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Just edited my last post, ref Ohms testing take a look.
👍👍
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Just edited my last post, ref Ohms testing take a look.
👍👍
It's the maths on Ohms that's the important bit, all in the link mate.
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Right I think I've tested it right. I disconnected the plug with the 3 white wires from the rectifier, turned the bike on and left it to idle, switched my multimeter to AC and then inserted the prongs into each of the wires in the connection plug but didnt get a reading from any of them?
I then tested the resistance again and got the same reading of 0.9 from each wire?
That guide said something about testing the multimeter first then deducting the numbers but when I did that the multimeter was reading 1.5 and the wires were only 0.9 (which is half the recommended spec) so that would mean a reading of -0.6 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Either way I think its getting pretty conclusive that its the stator thats failed?
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Yep, from what you're saying looks like it shot mate :(
If it's the coil pack/assembly the copper coils normally look very dark burnt and can smell the same. If when you get the rotor assembly off it's not got the inner sleeve on (early type) look at the magnets check for lose damage, you may just want to change it anyway for the later type.
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I haven't read the whole of your thread, but if you still have the old rotor in the bike you should really replace that along with the stator.
Motoelectrical do quality pattern parts and for your first purchase you get 10% off so the stator/rotor kit would be just over £300 -
https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/search/index/?category=0&keyword=FZ1&refine=Search
(https://www.motoelectrical.co.uk/search/index/?category=0&keyword=FZ1&refine=Search)
Or I found this on ebay, looks like a reconditioned part as it only has a 6m warranty -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replacement-Stator-Generator-Magneto-Assembly-Yamaha-FZ1-S-Fazer-06-15/333309772313?epid=10025226535&hash=item4d9acf8219:g:Gt8AAOSwGfZdZk-k (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replacement-Stator-Generator-Magneto-Assembly-Yamaha-FZ1-S-Fazer-06-15/333309772313?epid=10025226535&hash=item4d9acf8219:g:Gt8AAOSwGfZdZk-k)
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Cheers for the links. I will be replacing the rotor if its original regardless, but that is a decent price for the 2 parts new.
Will know what I'm working with by the end of tomorrow 👍
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Well I've found the problem 😔😔
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Jeepers mate; that's a right mess :'(
I hope you get it sorted :thumbup
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Jeepers mate; that's a right mess :'(
I hope you get it sorted :thumbup
Well I've just ordered a new rotor and stator from one of the links in this thread (thanks guys) so that should be here in a few days.
There's only 1 or 2 magnets that are actually broken and all of the parts seem to be stuck to the stator so I'm not too concerned about metal in the engine.
I will change the oil and have a route through it with a magnet to be certain but I'm hopeful that it should be simply a case of old out and new in... job done 🤞🤞
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ouch that looks nasty
to be honest I think you've got away lightly that good of been so much worse
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That's about what you get and what I've seen plus no noise, or hardly any. The magnets just get pulled in as the bonding fails, so long as they're pulled squarely down on to the coil assembly, the rotor assembly just spins around and produces no charge or very little, the fun starts if one does :eek
You've had a result mate, in that it's not done any real damaged other than the generator. ;) :)
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Yeah i feel like the luckiest guy in the world 😂😂
Nah I know what ya mean, its the best of a bad outcome although not a welcome expense given the current situation 🙄
Least once it's done I won't have to worry about it again for the life of the bike
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Well done Dude, glad you’ve got a result, even if rather painful on your wallet. But hey, things could have been a lot worse. Just enjoy the peace of mind when your bike’s back together, and you’re out giving her some stick. :thumbup
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So glad I did mine as a preventative measure last month, looks like you are a lucky man today :thumbup
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Least once it's done I won't have to worry about it again for the life of the bike
Yep, ;) :D I'd give Yamaha a call, state the fact it's well known almost common fault and that they've made an up graded part. They may just fobb you off but they may not or at the least they may contribute, I've had similar results before. You've got nothing to lose by trying mate ;)
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Haha funnily enough I was gonna ask of anyone had any luck getting anything in the ways of compensation out of Yamaha? I would imagine I'd be pissing in the wind but might be worth an email 🤔
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Haha funnily enough I was gonna ask of anyone had any luck getting anything in the ways of compensation out of Yamaha? I would imagine I'd be pissing in the wind but might be worth an email 🤔
Send the pictures and stress the fact they've up rated that part because of failures, why no recall etc etc.
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FFS! That was a close call. Hopefully you are not missing any significant bits.
Good to hear you are on your way to getting it sorted.
What years were affected with this?
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FFS! That was a close call. Hopefully you are not missing any significant bits.
Good to hear you are on your way to getting it sorted.
What years were affected with this?
Well with the Fz1 I believe it affects the 06,07 and 08 but also affects the R1 from 04 and the FZ8 from 10 (i believe) possibly even a few more that shared this engine
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Good to know.
Hope yours is up and running again soon Dude.
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Good to know.
Hope yours is up and running again soon Dude.
Hopefully by the weekend as long as the postman doesn't dawdle (like he has been with the gasket I ordered on Friday with 24hr delivery no less 🙄)
On that note I couldn't believe that the company I ordered the parts from charged me £6 shipping! Spent £350 with them and they don't even offer to send it for free!? Shocking in this day and age
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I find a lot of 24hr services are no quicker than the budget option.
I figure often the tick box is just there in case you fancy paying extra.
And don't start me on the post office. They just love to try and sell you their rip off insurance.
You know if their insurance rates were reasonable I'd take it out everytime, but it's just a pure rip off, and then their staff are trained to write 'customer advised' on your receipt to further pressurise you into taking their insurance.
Now I'll tell them what I'm sending (I suppose it's fair to ask to check that what you are sending is safe) but I refuse to discuss value. Just give me recorded delivery please.
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I got my gasket here, the packet it came in had a genuine Yamaha sticker on it but it did cost me £16 with postage.
[url]http://www.manhattanmotorcycles.co.uk/p/28871/2d11545110-gasket-crankcase-cover-1[/url] ([url]http://www.manhattanmotorcycles.co.uk/p/28871/2d11545110-gasket-crankcase-cover-1[/url])
Cheers for the link 👍
From memory, our rectifiers are known to bloody melt are they not? I would check that for sure....
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Well for anyone that needs to know. This is what an upgraded rotor looks like 👍
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Also for anyone thats thinking thinking about it, replacing the stator is an absolute arse of a job 😔 just started it but going to have to finish it tomorrow. For a start the the 3 bolts holding it into the engine case have been put in with factory loctite and as such do not like to be undone (so that was a 15 minute job trying to get them out) and then after finally getting them undone I realised its going to be a complete tank off job to get access too the old cable/plug and be able to reroute the new one 🙄
Then as another annoyance, the old gasket is a ball ache to get off too. I spend 20 minutes with a Stanley blade trying to get it all off.
All in all a lot of effort for something I may have not needed to do (I cleaned up the magnets on the old one and turns out they aren't damaged 🤷♂️)
But as with all this kind of stuff if your going to go to the effort of doing it, you may aswell do it all properly to save having to do it again
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nice tats.
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nice tats.
Bet you say that to all the girls 😂
But what you on about? None of my tattoos are on show? Haha
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I found it fairly easy but I didn't have to change the generator only the rotor. I agree about the gasket it must have took me about half an hr to get that off as it was a right pain...
The bolts holding mine on were easy to undo and I didn't put any threadlock on when I refitted either :eek
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I found it fairly easy but I didn't have to change the generator only the rotor. I agree about the gasket it must have took me about half an hr to get that off as it was a right pain...
The bolts holding mine on were easy to undo and I didn't put any threadlock on when I refitted either :eek
I was referring to the bolts holding the generator in. The rotor was a simple in and out job. Its the generator thats proving to be a bastard to replace haha
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Well we have success 🥳🥳
Took an hour of faffing about with the stator but got there in the end.
A point worth mentioning for anyone who orders a stator from that company (RMStators)... the lead is about 2 inches smaller than the original and as such you have to be really inventive with the routing otherwise you won't be able to screw your rectifier back in the same place. Also the plug is maybe 1cm shallower so it doesn't look like it's clipped in, but does work 👍
Anyways just an oil change to go then ill be back on the road
Thanks again for all the help guys. Just shows once you take away then politics then this is still a great Motorbike forum after all 😜👍
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Result :thumbup
Pleased for you mate.
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Glad you got it sorted mate :)
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Well done on getting it fixed :thumbup , pretty epic journey from start to finish, thanks for sharing.
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absolute result and nicely done dude :) :) :) :)
and yeah, its a great site
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Glad it's sorted mate :thumbup
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Excellant :thumbup
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Thanks for the well wishes guys. Still not got round to an oil change yet so not had her back on the road (weathers been shite anyways)
I made the effort to contact Yamaha about this issue and this is their response.....
Thank you for your email, regarding the Rotor on your 2007 model Yamaha FZ1.
In relation to your enquiry, we can advise, that individual parts from time to time, may indeed be subject to some form of evolution. This is part of Yamaha’s policy of constantly monitoring the quality and performance of its components and as such, it is not unusual for a part to be changed or updated at some stage, during or after, any models production.
Whilst we can advise that there is no Recall in relation to the Rotor on your machine and your warranty has expired, we are sometimes able to offer some form of 'out of warranty' assistance. Any requests for 'out of warranty' assistance are generally dealt with on a case by case basis through our UK Yamaha dealer network, prior to any repair being carried out, where due consideration is given to the circumstances of the claim, including but not limited to, the age, miles covered, service history and whether there was any previous history of such a problem. The first stage of the process, is that the owner would arrange and authorise an inspection of their area of concern at a Yamaha motorcycle dealer, also providing them details of their Service History. Subsequently, should the dealer identify and consider there to be evidence of a manufacturing defect, they may then contact our Warranty Department, on behalf of the customer, regarding any available assistance.
In this instance therefore, should you believe that your Rotor is subject to a manufacturing defect, we would kindly suggest, that you please re-establish contact with your local Yamaha dealer to authorise an inspection of your machine and providing them your Service History. After their inspection, should the dealer identify a manufacturing defect with your Rotor and consider there to be the possibility of 'out of warranty assistance' they will then be in a position to contact us with their findings, for our consideration, regarding a replacement Rotor part, possibly at a discounted/special price.
We thank you for your enquiry and whilst at this point we can offer no assurance of assistance, we hope that our comments may at least clarify the manner in which we proceed with machines whose warranty has expired and hope that through your Yamaha dealer, this matter may be resolved.
So expected there won't be much getting done (especially since I've already repaired it) my local Yammy dealer aren't going to be of any help to me unless I'm buying a bike so guess that's that.
I'm not too fussed as imo its just part of owning a used vehicle.
I suppose if it happens to anyone else and they take it straight to the dealer then they might stand a chance at a small discount off the parts or something? 🤷♂️
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Why don't you take all the new parts back out, put all the old parts back in and take it along to the dealer? ;)
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Why don't you take all the new parts back out, put all the old parts back in and take it along to the dealer? ;)
Because
A. I cant be arsed
B. Its not worth the hassle and
C. All they are offering is a potential discount on buying a new rotor from them
But although useless to me it might help someone to know it for future reference
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- In relation to your enquiry, we can advise, that individual parts from time to time, may indeed be subject to some form of evolution. This is part of Yamaha’s policy of constantly monitoring the quality and performance of its components and as such, it is not unusual for a part to be changed or updated at some stage, during or after, any models production.
- Whilst we can advise that there is no Recall in relation to the Rotor on your machine and your warranty has expired, we are sometimes able to offer some form of 'out of warranty' assistance. Any requests for 'out of warranty' assistance are generally dealt with on a case by case basis through our UK Yamaha dealer network,
- The first stage of the process, is that the owner would arrange and authorise an inspection of their area of concern at a Yamaha motorcycle dealer, also providing them details of their Service History. Subsequently, should the dealer identify and consider there to be evidence of a manufacturing defect, they may then contact our Warranty Department, on behalf of the customer, regarding any available assistance.
- In this instance therefore, should you believe that your Rotor is subject to a manufacturing defect, we would kindly suggest, that you please re-establish contact with your local Yamaha dealer to authorise an inspection of your machine and providing them your Service History. After their inspection, should the dealer identify a manufacturing defect with your Rotor and consider there to be the possibility of 'out of warranty assistance' they will then be in a position to contact us with their findings, for our consideration, regarding a replacement Rotor part, possibly at a discounted/special price.
- We thank you for your enquiry and whilst at this point we can offer no assurance of assistance, we hope that our comments may at least clarify the manner in which we proceed with machines whose warranty has expired and hope that through your Yamaha dealer, this matter may be resolved.
I like yamaha but -
- That is some class-A marketing bullshit right there. Monitoring? the fuckers superseded the part because it had a known major fault with it!!
- Because they superseded the part on the fucking quiet. In my exp. normally when a part gets superseded its not drastically different from its predecessor, this was not the case in this instance.
- More blah blah copy and pasted marketing/corpo fuckery.
- Why the actuall fuck do you need to present a service history, the bike is out warranty. This smacks of classic smoke and mirrors and get out clause - eg the old well you have no service history so sorry we cant even consider helping you fucking bullshit. Fyi even if the bike had never been serviced in its life that would never effect the a known hardware fault present from the day it rolled out of the factory.
- 'Should you believe'.... I cant beleive what Im reading here. What complete and utter cunt-fuckery. They know FULL fucking well the part in-question has a major fault, otherwise the part would never have been superseded with a noticeably different part.
- And there we go..... falling back on the final exit clause. Pushing the responsibility on to the dealer. If Yamaha aren't going to do fuck-all, then why the fuck would the dealer do so, cunts.
Rant over.
And as you suspected, the discount would be no where near the £215 for the pattern part.
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Thanks for the well wishes guys. Still not got round to an oil change yet so not had her back on the road (weathers been shite anyways)
I made the effort to contact Yamaha about this issue and this is their response.....
Thank you for your email, regarding the Rotor on your 2007 model Yamaha FZ1.
In relation to your enquiry, we can advise, that individual parts from time to time, may indeed be subject to some form of evolution. This is part of Yamaha’s policy of constantly monitoring the quality and performance of its components and as such, it is not unusual for a part to be changed or updated at some stage, during or after, any models production.
Whilst we can advise that there is no Recall in relation to the Rotor on your machine and your warranty has expired, we are sometimes able to offer some form of 'out of warranty' assistance. Any requests for 'out of warranty' assistance are generally dealt with on a case by case basis through our UK Yamaha dealer network, prior to any repair being carried out, where due consideration is given to the circumstances of the claim, including but not limited to, the age, miles covered, service history and whether there was any previous history of such a problem. The first stage of the process, is that the owner would arrange and authorise an inspection of their area of concern at a Yamaha motorcycle dealer, also providing them details of their Service History. Subsequently, should the dealer identify and consider there to be evidence of a manufacturing defect, they may then contact our Warranty Department, on behalf of the customer, regarding any available assistance.
In this instance therefore, should you believe that your Rotor is subject to a manufacturing defect, we would kindly suggest, that you please re-establish contact with your local Yamaha dealer to authorise an inspection of your machine and providing them your Service History. After their inspection, should the dealer identify a manufacturing defect with your Rotor and consider there to be the possibility of 'out of warranty assistance' they will then be in a position to contact us with their findings, for our consideration, regarding a replacement Rotor part, possibly at a discounted/special price.
We thank you for your enquiry and whilst at this point we can offer no assurance of assistance, we hope that our comments may at least clarify the manner in which we proceed with machines whose warranty has expired and hope that through your Yamaha dealer, this matter may be resolved.
So expected there won't be much getting done (especially since I've already repaired it) my local Yammy dealer aren't going to be of any help to me unless I'm buying a bike so guess that's that.
I'm not too fussed as imo its just part of owning a used vehicle.
I suppose if it happens to anyone else and they take it straight to the dealer then they might stand a chance at a small discount off the parts or something? 🤷♂️
Would be interesting if they can answer on what model year they made a remedy on the rotor disaster!!
//M
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Would be interesting if they can answer on what model year they made a remedy on the rotor disaster!!
With the info I have atm, I believe they started selling it on the QT from 2008 on.
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Good thing it all went well in the end for you, and no real damage was done.
I just had a question regarding the new rotor. Since the magnets are thinner due to fitting reasons, is there some change in electrical current output?
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Good thing it all went well in the end for you, and no real damage was done.
I just had a question regarding the new rotor. Since the magnets are thinner due to fitting reasons, is there some change in electrical current output?
I'm not sure they are thinner? I believe they just fitted a thin metal sleeve over them so that they aren't subject to as much centrifugal force and if the glue does fail then the sleeve keeps the magnets in place.
Either way the charging seems to have been perfectly fine ever since 👍
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Great, then I will replace it as soon as I can so I don't have any problems later