old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: StuartGSXR on 07 July 2019, 04:27:41 pm
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Hi one and all.
New to the club and sorry to be starting with a problem. I ended up here after doing a google search of my issue so here I am.
I have a 2003 Foxeye 600, it is used as my commuter and does 70 miles a day 4 or 5 days a week. In November last year I upgraded the headlight bulbs but they are the 60/55 versions so no probs there. I always have my headlights on even in the day time so the headlight switch is always in the on position.
On the way to work on Friday, I noticed near the end of my journey that I could not see the reflection of my lights in the car in front. Got to work and sure enough no headlights. Turned the bike off, checked the fuse and all good. Took one of the bulbs out and all good, refitted the bulb and put the ignition on and all was well. At the end of the day, turned the ignition on and lights came on nd started to ride home. Again, when I was nearly home it was clear no headlights were on, got home and checked and sure enough they were off and have not come back on at all.
Did a bit of a google and came up with a couple of threads on here about high powered bulbs and the 2 relays behind the clocks.Took the screen off and found the relays, no click from either of them when I turn the ignition on. I checked everything and no sidelights, headlights, tail light, full beam off the toggle switch, brake light or horn. The lights come on if you press the pass light ok and if you put the key in the park light position of the ignition the side lights and the rear tail lights come on so no issue with the wiring to either.Today I took the 4 pin relay out and looped the 2 power connectiors that go into it and the headlights came on (but no side lights or rear lights still).
So I am thinking there is definitely a problem with the 4 pin relay, the question is, would this effect the tail light, brake light and horn?
Any help gratefully appreciated.
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Relays?
The box eye doesnt use any relays as standard. I would have though the fox eye was the same
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Relays?
The box eye doesnt use any relays as standard. I would have though the fox eye was the same
You are wrong, The Foxeye is different, there is a 4 pin and a 5 pin one behind the clocks..
I found that out from the other posts on this forum lol.
5JJ-81950-10 and 5JJ-81950-20
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Hi one and all.
New to the club and sorry to be starting with a problem. I ended up here after doing a google search of my issue so here I am.
I have a 2003 Foxeye 600, it is used as my commuter and does 70 miles a day 4 or 5 days a week. In November last year I upgraded the headlight bulbs but they are the 60/55 versions so no probs there. I always have my headlights on even in the day time so the headlight switch is always in the on position.
On the way to work on Friday, I noticed near the end of my journey that I could not see the reflection of my lights in the car in front. Got to work and sure enough no headlights. Turned the bike off, checked the fuse and all good. Took one of the bulbs out and all good, refitted the bulb and put the ignition on and all was well. At the end of the day, turned the ignition on and lights came on nd started to ride home. Again, when I was nearly home it was clear no headlights were on, got home and checked and sure enough they were off. Did a bit of a google and came up with a couple of threads on here about high powered bulbs and the 2 relays behind the clocks.
Took the screen off and found the relays, no click from either of them when I turn the ignition on. I checked everything and no sidelights, headlights, tail light, full beam off the toggle switch, brake light or horn. The lights come on if you press the pass light ok and if you put the key in the park light position of the ignition the side lights and the rear tail lights come on so no issue with the wiring to either.Today I took the 4 pin relay out and looped the 2 power connectiors that go into it and the headlights came on (but no side lights or rear lights still).
So I am thinking there is definitely a problem with the 4 pin relay, the question is, would this effect the tail light, brake light and horn?
Any help gratefully appreciated.
Strip the right hand handle bar switch and clean the contacts first as that is the only common link between the parking lights and headlights when ignition switch is on. Many small bits in the switch take care when taking it apart.
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could it be something to do with the signalling system fuse? maybe a bad connection. he mentioned his horn wasn't working :lol
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Indicators is one of the few things that is working!
I am hoping that it is all to do with the 4 pin relay as all the issues started at the same time. Maybe the relay feeds power to the 5 pin relay as well and the sidelights, tail lights and brake light.. I dont know, for a bike with so little technology in its causing a lot of head scratching here!
The relays are £40 each (and thats trade price!) so I am hoping it id only one of them.
The fact the sidelights and tail lights work with the key in park, the full beam works off the pass switch and the dipped beam works if I loop the power connector pins on the 4 pin relay makes me think its nothing to do with wiring and switches but I will have a look inside the light switch tomorrow as well.
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That signaling system fuse gives power to the horn, the brake lights and the light switch which give power to the control side of the four pin relay so it's worth checking. I'd check that the fuse is nice and tight and has good clean contact. It's an easy thing to check and rule out anyway or just go straight for unfazed suggestion since he's right 99% of the time :lol The wiring diagram is at the end of that manual http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=5 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=5)
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That signaling system fuse gives power to the horn, the brake lights and the light switch which give power to the control side of the four pin relay so it's worth checking. I'd check that the fuse is nice and tight and has good clean contact. It's an easy thing to check and rule out anyway or just go straight for unfazed suggestion since he's right 99% of the time :lol The wiring diagram is at the end of that manual [url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=5[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=5[/url])
Good thought, although I am thinking the wiring must have power up to the 4 pin relay as I unplugged the relay and looped the 2 power connectors in the block and the headlights came on.
Unfazed was the one who came up with the relays advice in the other threads I found via google so will defo have a look at the switch as well.
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There are two lots of power to the relays though, the power being switched and the power to operate the relay. You have the power being switched, as proved by looping it at the relay connector and making the headlights work. But what His Dudeness is saying is that the signal circuit, which operates the relay, may be at fault.
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Got you. I will change the indicator fuse tomorrow and clean the connectors in the fuse box just in case. But yeah, as the indicators are working I am thinking that should be ok, but then the horn and rear light and brake light... grr
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Relays can be temperamental when old - especially in high temperatures as it was Friday (coils are tired and heat up with use causing the relay not to be effective). I'd be looking at replacing the 4 pin relay due to age. Just my 2p
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There are two lots of power to the relays though, the power being switched and the power to operate the relay. You have the power being switched, as proved by looping it at the relay connector and making the headlights work. But what His Dudeness is saying is that the signal circuit, which operates the relay, may be at fault.
Yep and the horn gets it's power on that circuit too so the fact that the horn was dodgy might suggest the fuse connection is dodgy, a long shot but worth checking. The indicators are on a different circuit. They get power through "turn signal fuse". Have a look at the wiring diagram in that link.
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Got you... the one I thought was the turn signal fuse is the 10 amp one you are talking about... seems the turn signal fuse is not in that box at all!I will change that 10 amp fuse tomorrow and check it from there.
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Relays can be temperamental when old - especially in high temperatures as it was Friday (coils are tired and heat up with use causing the relay not to be effective). I'd be looking at replacing the 4 pin relay due to age. Just my 2p
A dodgy relay wouldn't explain the horn not working
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I missed the bit about the horn not working. :rolleyes The Pass switch takes its power directly from the 20A fuse headlight fuse and bypasses the relays and the right hand light switch. It proves the headlight fuse is working and the headlight main beams are working. The headlights in normal working mode have their own fuse and the signalling fuse switches on the 4 pin relay which runs power through the second 5 pin relay. This relay is used to switch from dims to heads.
Use a process of elimination. The 4 pin relay has nothing to do with the parking light or horn. Lift the tank and check all the connection in the black box. It sounds more like a corroded connection and since all the power and earths come back via connectors in that black box it is a good thing to check.
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I think the power for pass comes from the headlight fuse not the signaling fuse
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Thanks for all the help. Where does the power for the rear brake / tail light come from as that’s not working either?
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The brake light comes from the signaling fuse. The rear light comes straight from the ignition switch so once the ignition is on the rear light should be on.
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:agree
I think the power for pass comes from the headlight fuse not the signaling fuse
Should not write these using my phone, Pass is headlight fuse Brake light is signalling fuse
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Ok, well the signalling fuse was fine but I changed it anyway, still no change. As the tail lights light up ok when the ignition is switched to park lights I did not think it would be the problem... although even with that fuse out the park lights work. If the only thing they need to work is the fuse and ignition being on it should be simple, but then the brake light is not working either.
I am thinking its got to be one thing that is causing all these issues. as my bike is a daily rider, its not like its stuff that could have built up over time. It had its MOT a couple of weeks ago so the horn and rear lights would have definitely been working then. I am still thinking that it is relay related although I do not get how it could be effecting the rear lights or the horn unless there is some sort of rerturn feed via one of the relays.
I have spoken to an electrics guy at work and he does not think the relays are at fault as they only control the headlights. With the list of things not working he thinks it is more likely there is a major wire in the loom somewhere that supplies all the things that are not working which is not connecting as it should.
This is fun :(
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If fuses are ok the only other common point is the earth. Easily checked by applying an good earth to the black wire on the 4 pin relay and if everything now works you have an earth problem.
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Just checked all the fuses with a multimeter and all good, tried running an earth to the black wire on the 4 pin relay and no change. :'(
I really dunno, I don't think it can be the relay with the amount of unrelated other things that arent working. There has to be a bad connection in the wiring somewhere or something.
Its not being easy to fix!
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Having looked at the wiring diagram from the downloads section (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=45 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=45)), the relays only deal with the high/low beam element.
Given all the faults you have, I would look at the one common thing, the ignition switch cables/connectors.
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Yeah thats the conclusion we came to. Maybe a common earth fault or a break in something.. going to try to take it to pieces more tomorrow and see how we get on :(
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Having looked at the wiring diagram from the downloads section ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=45[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=45[/url])), the relays only deal with the high/low beam element.
Given all the faults you have, I would look at the one common thing, the ignition switch cables/connectors.
I don't think it can be at the ignition because if it was at the ignition he'd be loosing power to the starter relay and having intermittent starting problems but he doesn't have that so the connection at the ignition must be good because the bike is starting everytime.
Ok, well the signalling fuse was fine but I changed it anyway, still no change. As the tail lights light up ok when the ignition is switched to park lights I did not think it would be the problem... although even with that fuse out the park lights work. If the only thing they need to work is the fuse and ignition being on it should be simple, but then the brake light is not working either.
I am thinking its got to be one thing that is causing all these issues. as my bike is a daily rider, its not like its stuff that could have built up over time. It had its MOT a couple of weeks ago so the horn and rear lights would have definitely been working then. I am still thinking that it is relay related although I do not get how it could be effecting the rear lights or the horn unless there is some sort of rerturn feed via one of the relays.
I have spoken to an electrics guy at work and he does not think the relays are at fault as they only control the headlights. With the list of things not working he thinks it is more likely there is a major wire in the loom somewhere that supplies all the things that are not working which is not connecting as it should.
This is fun :(
The park circuit and the ON circuit are completely different so the tail light coming on when the key is in park doesn't rule out a problem on that signaling fuse circuit. When the key is in park power goes from the battery to the ignition then straight to the tail light.
Whereas when the key is in the ON position power goes from the battery to the ignition, then from the ignition it goes to the fuses including the signaling fuse, then from the signaling fuse it goes to the switch on the handlebar, then from the switch it goes back to the ignition, then from the ignition it goes to the tail light. So the park and ON circuit are totally different.
You've proved the signaling fuse connection is good but I don't think you've proved that there's power at the fuse. Have you got a multimeter or a test light and we can check for power at the fuse and then at each point along the circuit after the fuse?
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Thanks for the explanation, really helped :D
I can confirm that yes indeed it is starting perfectly every time as normal and running fine.. just with no lights or horn!
Turned the ignition on today and tested both sides of all the fuses in the fuse box and all had power. On the wiring diagram there is a back up fuse (somewhere!) and a main fuse, I think these are the only 2 I have not checked, not sure they would effect anything.
None of the wiring or connectors checked so far have been furry or corroded. When I bought the bike in Spetember it only had 20,000 miles on it. I have added about another 10,000 miles since then but it is looked after and covered at night etc.
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The backup fuse is in the main fuse box on a 2003, and the main fuse is in the top of the starter relay next to the battery. Do you have 12v on the blue/black wire going to the 4 pin relay when the light switch is in the on position? and do you have 12v on the yellow wire going to the 5 pin relay when the high beam switch is on?
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You may have already done so, have you checked the battery terminals are tight/clean & earth to frame.
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Ok,
So the bike has been into the workshop at work today to try and work out the problem. They have checked and discounted most of the obvious stuff but then ran out of time.
One theory is it could be the ignition that is causing the problem. They have not been able to fully check it out yet. Are all the blue wires meant to have 12v with the ignition on? Anyone know where there is a colour wiring diagram?
And should the worst come to the worst, anyone know of a used Foxeye lock set for sale? I know they are like hens teeth as they have more connectors than the boxeye ignition.
Thanks again folks.
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Did you check for 12v on the two wires in my post above? Colour wiring diagram in the Haynes manual.
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A bit risky. You could blow something up if you do it wrong so do it at your own risk but you could bypass the ignition and if the lights work when the ignition is bypassed you know the problem is in the ignition. There's two connectors going to the ignition, a two pin connector and a six pin connector. If you follow the wire off the back of the ignition you will find the two connectors. They're in the junction box under the tank. You'll have to take the front bolt out of the tank and tilt it up out of the way.
The two pin connector will have a red wire and a brown/blue wire.
The six pin will have a black, blue/red, brown/red, blue/yellow, blue
Disconnect both connectors.
On the loom side of the two pin connector join red to brown/blue.
The headlight, brake light, horn should now work. If they do work you know the fault must be in the ignition. If they still don't work the fault is after the ignition.
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Thanks for that, I will give that a go at work tomorrow. Whats the worst that can happen! :rolleyes
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Did you check for 12v on the two wires in my post above? Colour wiring diagram in the Haynes manual.
They did check the relays in the workshop today, I am assuming the outcome wasn't bad as they did not say there was an issue.
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Thanks for that, I will give that a go at work tomorrow. Whats the worst that can happen! :rolleyes
You could short something and blow it up or start an electrical fire and burn the bike and your work down :lol
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Just as a precaution before you jump the red to brown/blue take out the ignition fuse so that power doesn't go to the ignitor. That way all you're powering when you jump it is the lights, horn etc.
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Well I looped the wire, neutral light came on..still no horn or lights. :( Does the 6 pin block not give power to any circuits? Does looping the 2 pin connector give power to all circuits?
Edit : I didnt disconnect the 6 pin connector... doh back I go
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Did not get time to come back on this as I was doing the 48000 mile service on my sons Fazer.
Since the earth on the relay did not work and reading through what you seem to have done quickest and easiest way to check the section on the ignition switch is in the box under the tank.
As Dude says locate the connectors to the ignition, but without disconnecting anything the take the 6 way connector with the five wires and loop the blue/red and the blue with a piece of stiff wire (not too thick) in the back of the back of the connector. Turn on the ignition, turn on the lights. If this section of the ignition is faulty this will bring on the lights, if not the fault is elsewhere
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Colour wiring diagram
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Ok, tried unplugging both connectors and looping the 2 pin on the loom side. Neutral light came on but no horn or headlights.Tried to loop the 2 wires on the 6 / 5 pin plug but not sure my wire was thin enough to connect ok but no apparent change either.
Any electrics wizards near Brighton?! lol. I dont get it.
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Do you have a meter? If so check for 12v on the following on same 6 way 5 pin plug.Switch Ignition on and check for 12v on the Brown/red and the brown/blue by putting the probe into the back of the connector
If you get 12v on both of those then put the probe on the blue and turn the light switch on right handlebar to park that should supply 12v to the blue wire, now check the Blue/red also as it gets its 12v from the Blue/red via the ignition switch
If you get 12v on the Brown/red and Brown/Blue but not on the Blue or Blue/red the problem is in the light switch.
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Ok, I will get my multimeter out at lunchtime.
On testing the brown/red and brown/blue wires, is that with the light switch in the dipped beam position?
And on the blue wire and blue/red is that with the light switch in the on or off position?
Thank you so much for your continued help, I would be lost without it.
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Looking at the wiring diagram posted by Unfazed, the brown wire from the RHS switch assembly appears to be common with all of the items you have said are failing.
I would definitely be checking that all the way back to the connector block.
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Do you have a meter? If so check for 12v on the following on same 6 way 5 pin plug.Switch Ignition on and check for 12v on the Brown/red and the brown/blue by putting the probe into the back of the connector
If you get 12v on both of those then put the probe on the blue and turn the light switch on right handlebar to park that should supply 12v to the blue wire, now check the Blue/red also as it gets its 12v from the Blue/red via the ignition switch
If you get 12v on the Brown/red and Brown/Blue but not on the Blue or Blue/red the problem is in the light switch.
Right..
So with the ignition on the Brown/Red on the 5 pin switch has power, as does the Brown/Blue wire (which is on the 2 pin block??)
The Blue wire (which has small green spots on as well) does not have power with the ignition switch or the light switch in any position.
Blue/Red gets 12v in park position (but no other)So yes get 12v from Brown/Red and Brown/Blue (with the ignition on) , nothing from the Blue in any position and only with the key in park from Blue/Red.
So does that mean there is a fault in the light switch? Can someone confirm that the blue has green spots on? There is no plain blue but all the others have stripes on them. Also the Brown/Blue being on the 2 pin rather than the 5 pin?
I think we are making progress (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif) Thanks all
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Looking at the wiring diagram posted by Unfazed, the brown wire from the RHS switch assembly appears to be common with all of the items you have said are failing.
I would definitely be checking that all the way back to the connector block.
It is definitely looking that way. Fingers crossed for progress!
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Do you have a meter? If so check for 12v on the following on same 6 way 5 pin plug.Switch Ignition on and check for 12v on the Brown/red and the brown/blue by putting the probe into the back of the connector
If you get 12v on both of those then put the probe on the blue and turn the light switch on right handlebar to park that should supply 12v to the blue wire, now check the Blue/red also as it gets its 12v from the Blue/red via the ignition switch
If you get 12v on the Brown/red and Brown/Blue but not on the Blue or Blue/red the problem is in the light switch.
Right..
So with the ignition on the Brown/Red on the 5 pin switch has power, as does the Brown/Blue wire (which is on the 2 pin block??)
The Blue wire (which has small green spots on as well) does not have power with the ignition switch or the light switch in any position.
Blue/Red gets 12v in park position (but no other)So yes get 12v from Brown/Red and Brown/Blue (with the ignition on) , nothing from the Blue in any position and only with the key in park from Blue/Red.
So does that mean there is a fault in the light switch? Can someone confirm that the blue has green spots on? There is no plain blue but all the others have stripes on them. Also the Brown/Blue being on the 2 pin rather than the 5 pin?
I think we are making progress (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif) Thanks all
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Do you have a meter? If so check for 12v on the following on same 6 way 5 pin plug.Switch Ignition on and check for 12v on the Brown/red and the brown/blue by putting the probe into the back of the connector
If you get 12v on both of those then put the probe on the blue and turn the light switch on right handlebar to park that should supply 12v to the blue wire, now check the Blue/red also as it gets its 12v from the Blue/red via the ignition switch
If you get 12v on the Brown/red and Brown/Blue but not on the Blue or Blue/red the problem is in the light switch.
Right..
So with the ignition on the Brown/Red on the 5 pin switch has power, as does the Brown/Blue wire (which is on the 2 pin block??)
The Blue wire (which has small green spots on as well) does not have power with the ignition switch or the light switch in any position.
Blue/Red gets 12v in park position (but no other)So yes get 12v from Brown/Red and Brown/Blue (with the ignition on) , nothing from the Blue in any position and only with the key in park from Blue/Red.
So does that mean there is a fault in the light switch? Can someone confirm that the blue has green spots on? There is no plain blue but all the others have stripes on them. Also the Brown/Blue being on the 2 pin rather than the 5 pin?
I think we are making progress ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/url]) Thanks all
I would say that the switch is your problem try spraying some electrical contact cleaner in there first if that cures it strip the switch down to clean properly,as it is intermittent may just be dirty contacts.
I would say that the switch is your problem try spraying some contact cleaner in there first if that cures it strip the switch down to clean properly, as it is intermittent may just be dirty contacts.
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So with the ignition on the Brown/Red on the 5 pin switch has power, as does the Brown/Blue wire (which is on the 2 pin block??)
Deliberate anomaly to make sure you were awake :lol and not colour blind :lol ..
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To answer the question: Yes all the single colour wire appear to have those greenish spots.
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To prove without doubt, apply 12 volts to the back of the blue wire connector with the ignition on. If everything works now take of the light switch and clean it. A touch of "Déjà Vu" here.
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To prove without doubt, apply 12 volts to the back of the blue wire connector with the ignition on. If everything works now take of the light switch and clean it. A touch of "Déjà Vu" here.
:lol I had seen a few of your posts from following links after using google with the symptoms, quickly worked out you knew your stuff. I will give it a go tomorrow and report back :)
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To prove without doubt, apply 12 volts to the back of the blue wire connector with the ignition on. If everything works now take of the light switch and clean it. A touch of "Déjà Vu" here.
Aye, pack that in! a lot on here have trouble speaking the Queens English let alone that fancy french stuff. (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/cheesy.gif)
Sorry couldn't help myself,
Del: One of my most favouritist meals is Duck à l’Orange, but I don’t know how to say that in French.
Rodney: It’s canard.
Del: You can say that again bruv!.
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A problem on the blue wire doesn't explain the horn and brake light not working or maybe I read your first post wrong. Do they already work?
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Del: One of my most favouritist meals is Duck à l’Orange, but I don’t know how to say that in French.
Rodney: It’s canard.
Del: You can say that again bruv!.
This is one of my favourite Only Fools scenes ever.
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A problem on the blue wire doesn't explain the horn and brake light not working or maybe I read your first post wrong. Do they already work?
Maybe there is more than one issue? :eek :D
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A problem on the blue wire doesn't explain the horn and brake light not working or maybe I read your first post wrong. Do they already work?
Ok, so I put power to the blue wire and.....
EVERYTHING WORKS AGAIN!!Horn, tail light, brake light, headlight, full beam it all works fine.
I have already ordered a used complete switch off ebay as I know if I take it to pieces I will lose at least 2 springs/small parts.
I will report back on when the switch arrives and is fitted but I am confident that the combined power of the forum has indeed solved this problem... and yes Unfazer, you did call it right on your very first post! :lol
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Just glad it looks like you've sorted it mate.
I also love reading the wisdom that gets written by those in the know on this forum.
It's good to know we are in safe hands :D
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A problem on the blue wire doesn't explain the horn and brake light not working or maybe I read your first post wrong. Do they already work?
Maybe there is more than one issue? :eek :D
Den den den!!!! :lol There must be a problem that's stopping the 12V feed in the right handlebar switches. The signalling circuit is the 12V feed into the switches that's why I was suggesting it. When he put 12V on the blue wire it must have gone back through the light switch and powered the horn and the brake lights. I bet if he put 12V on the blue wire and turned the light switch off the horn would stop working :lol
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Just glad it looks like you've sorted it mate.
I also love reading the wisdom that gets written by those in the know on this forum.
It's good to know we are in safe hands :D
That's why I read the workshop forum. It helps the guy sort his problem and if he reports back when he finds the solution everyone learns from it.
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A problem on the blue wire doesn't explain the horn and brake light not working or maybe I read your first post wrong. Do they already work?
Maybe there is more than one issue? :eek :D
Den den den!!!! :lol There must be a problem that's stopping the 12V feed in the right handlebar switches. The signalling circuit is the 12V feed into the switches that's why I was suggesting it. When he put 12V on the blue wire it must have gone back through the light switch and powered the horn and the brake lights. I bet if he put 12V on the blue wire and turned the light switch off the horn would stop working :lol
Oh god, dont say that! I am hopeful that when i change the right hand switchgear that everything will go back to normal in my little comuter world!I love my Fazer, it is such a giggle, the poor GSXR1000 hardly gets ridden these days !
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It most likely will sort it. When you put the new switches on you'll have to open up the old ones and show us the problem!
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It most likely will sort it. When you put the new switches on you'll have to open up the old ones and show us the problem!
its the least I can do for all the help that I have got.
Also, I am not one of these people that will only log on and post when I have a problem, now I have found the forum I will be a regular contributor :D
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So...the replacement light switch was waiting for me when I got home from work. I rushed out, took the old one off, fitted the new one, plugged it in and.....
Nothing. exactly the same problem as before. No headlight, full beam, tail light, brake light or horn. Again by putting 12v to the blue wire on the 5 pin ignition I get everything working, although His Dudeness is correct in that the horn only then works with the dipped beam on, turn the lights off and no horn.
So I am almost back to square one just with an extra light switch now! Next move?
Thanks in advance
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Dang it! Try putting a wire from the positive of the battery to the brown wire in the connector going to the right handlebar switches. Leave the connector connected together. Tturn the ignition on. Does everything work now?
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I dont have time to trawl through the wiring diagram again now but......
The switchgear has a common feed. Cant remember the colour but try checking to see if you have 12v on that and work back to the battery/ignition switch from there if it doesnt.
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Dang it! Try putting a wire from the positive of the battery to the brown wire in the connector going to the right handlebar switches. Leave the connector connected together. Tturn the ignition on. Does everything work now?
Yes sir you are correct. So I could run a new wire from the signalling fuse and join on to the brown in the switch loom to by pass the bad connection?
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Dang it! Try putting a wire from the positive of the battery to the brown wire in the connector going to the right handlebar switches. Leave the connector connected together. Tturn the ignition on. Does everything work now?
Yes sir you are correct. So I could run a new wire from the signalling fuse and join on to the brown in the switch loom to by pass the bad connection?
Yeah you could do that as long as power is getting to the signaling fuse. It'd better job to find the break and repair it but you could run a new wire if you want.
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Ok, so basically that wire goes from the signalling fuse to the switch (but maybe not directly?) just wondering how much wire and from where and to the break could be hiding in! It’s days are numbered now clearly :lol
As the wire was tight in the blue block, I stripped a bit off the one I took off so I could get a decent connection on it seeing as it’s kind of a spare so wouldn’t be an issue to put a decent extra connection in if needs be , as long as it’s safe to do so. Don’t wanna set fire to my nuts !
Thanks again for the help.
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I don't know the exact route that the brown wire takes because I'm just going by the diagram and the diagram only shows the connections that are made in the circuit not the physical layout of the harness. You could try giving the brown wire a pull and it might break where the problem is and pull out of the harness. Then lay it over the harness and that would show where you need to fix it. That's just an idea though, there might be a better way to do it. Maybe wait for a second opinion on the best way to fix the wire before you do anything!
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You jumped the gun buying the switch until we were finished diagnosing. Removing the switch and checking it was always what should be done before buying anything, however I thought you you said in a previous post that you had power from the fuse.
The good news is that I need a right side switch for a Fazer with a broken kill switch (he dropped a piece of wood on it and broke the red part that you press on the switch) and will happily take it off your hands. PM me with the cost
Had to run a wire on a bandit yesterday with a similar issue to supply the light power, would have preferred to find the break but he was going on holidays for 2 weeks and will have to wait until he returns.
As the brown runs backwards and forwards on the loom the problem is probably close to the fuse. You could try lifting the fuse holder and checking it or see if the wire pulls off the back of the fuse holder. You should be able to see it and/or get at it from the right side. Running a wire should be a temporary option as finding the issue is the safest option.
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You jumped the gun buying the switch until we were finished diagnosing. Removing the switch and checking it was always what should be done before buying anything, however I thought you you said in a previous post that you had power from the fuse.
The good news is that I need a right side switch for a Fazer with a broken kill switch (he dropped a piece of wood on it and broke the red part that you press on the switch) and will happily take it off your hands. PM me with the cost
Had to run a wire on a bandit yesterday with a similar issue to supply the light power, would have preferred to find the break but he was going on holidays for 2 weeks and will have to wait until he returns.
As the brown runs backwards and forwards on the loom the problem is probably close to the fuse. You could try lifting the fuse holder and checking it or see if the wire pulls off the back of the fuse holder. You should be able to see it and/or get at it from the right side. Running a wire should be a temporary option as finding the issue is the safest option.
I ran a wire from the Signalling fuse to the brown in the block that joins to the lighting connector as a temp measure and everything works. :D I may well look into finding the fault in the loom but for now its just nice to have everything working again.
PM me your address details and you can have the other switch for free as a thanks for all the help you have been on this.
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Just a tail of woe that I encountered on a mates Triumph Tiger last month.
Had an MOT, & riding home lost lights horn everything, but kept running.
I checked through the system & found it must be ignition switch. Removed screen, top faring, headlights,+++
So after removing switch, out of interest I stripped the wires back. (nothing to loose) wires were apprx 14" long, as went into frt faring to junction box.
Two broken wires inside the sheathing, but touched as you turned the bars, so MOT worked at that particular time.
I repaired the wires, re-soldered, refitted. All good.
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Just a tail of woe that I encountered on a mates Triumph Tiger last month.
Had an MOT, & riding home lost lights horn everything, but kept running.
I checked through the system & found it must be ignition switch. Removed screen, top faring, headlights,+++
So after removing switch, out of interest I stripped the wires back. (nothing to loose) wires were apprx 14" long, as went into frt faring to junction box.
Two broken wires inside the sheathing, but touched as you turned the bars, so MOT worked at that particular time.
I repaired the wires, re-soldered, refitted. All good.
Please - it's actually against Forum rules to declare faults on any Tiger :lol :lol
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Ha Ha.
Yes I do agree, but this was an old one,(2001) so more like a cub!!!
Look at avatar, Main bike , Triumph Tiger. Its the 1050 Sport.
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Ha Ha.
Yes I do agree, but this was an old one,(2001) so more like a cub!!!
Look at avatar, Main bike , Triumph Tiger. Its the 1050 Sport.
2001 :eek oh a newish one then. Got a 1997 Steamer with good old carbs - love it. Have a chance to fit a 1200 4 from a Trophy........150bhp would be fun lol.
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Then you need to get yourself on my 2016 Tiger Sport.
? Did I tell you its got cruise control???