old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Bretty on 26 May 2017, 07:35:22 pm
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I'm just about to cross the border from the Netherlands into German to give the old girl a workout on the autobahn.
:-)
What top speed do you reckon I'll get?
Have a guess!
2000 bike, 40,000miles, recent service, K&N filter, scorpion can, 100kg rider, no luggage.
I'll give my speed on the flat, from my speedo and TomTom.
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Hard to say when I dont know what colour your bike is.........mmmmmm my guess........ 142 mph.....what do I win :lol
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Mine's a 2000, and with mileage not far off that at the time i got up to 135mph but with a passenger as well, but had to close the throttle as a car was changing lanes way up ahead of me.
So i reckon if you go for it you should hit 140mph if the bike's in good nick and the weather/wind is kind.
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I've had 135mph indicated and it had more to go, not loads but deffo more. I reckon 145 indicated.
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Hard to say when I dont know what colour your bike is.........mmmmmm my guess........ 142 mph.....what do I win :lol
Yes help us here by reminding us what colour it is I would say
Black 146 mph
Silver 141
Red black silver140
Gold 139
Red 138
Blue 125 ( with the wind behind you )
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Give over Sharpie everyone knows the blue ones are the prettiest and the fastest, anyone who tries to deny it is just jealous :lol
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She's silver...
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Hard to say when I dont know what colour your bike is.........mmmmmm my guess........ 142 mph.....what do I win :lol
Yes help us here by reminding us what colour it is I would say
Black 146 mph
Silver 141
Red black silver140
Gold 139
Red 138
Blue 125 ( with the wind behind you )
:agree
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Don't think the K&N filter or the end can will make any difference at all to be honest.
They will make the bike feel more throttle responsive, and sound better/faster in the low to mid range areas, but in reality for top speed i betcha an OEM exhaust makes the bike a tad quicker at top the end rather than an aftermarket one.
Over to you Mr Fazersharp.......we want proof.......and a duel. :b
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Don't think the K&N filter or the end can will make any difference at all to be honest.
They will make the bike feel more throttle responsive, and sound better/faster in the low to mid range areas, but in reality for top speed i betcha an OEM exhaust makes the bike a tad quicker at top the end rather than an aftermarket one.
Over to you Mr Fazersharp.......we want proof.......and a duel. :b
Had my 2003 FZS600 Foxeye flat out on the A3/A3M London to Portsmouth Road about a year and a half ago. around 2am in the morning, clear, calm and warm.
Speedometer showed 147, Tom Tom showed 143, now I'm not saying whether that was 143 speed or 143 time, well you never know who reads this stuff :stop . but my old girl has 38K on the clock and is in Silver.
(Or in Primer as some heartless sod once said in here)
That was its flat out top speed over about 2 to 3 miles, a bit of traffic about mainly trucks and vans and a few cars but overall it was quiet.
The steering at that speed left a bit to be desired, I felt as if I really had to force the old girl over, but everything happens so quickly at that speed Oops! time of day I mean.
Since then I have replaced all my wheel bearing and done the full monty suspension upgrade, so it may be a little better, but I am also 1.5 years older now so maybe I will never know.
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I have a top box on mine, so not only did the pillion help create a wind slipstream to go past it, but the extra weight planted the bike more firmly on the floor.
If i was to go past 100mph riding on my own the top box gets hammered by the wind and it all starts feeling a little bit unpleasant.
At those speeds the wind speed and direction obviously plays a massive part, as does what type of bike clothing you're wearing as well.
Even not having your lid tightened up really well can make things awkward too, 'cos if it's too loose your head starts shaking like a Churchill dog. :lol
And then you get your Isle Of Man TT racers, who are not only in a different league, but literally scare the life out of me just watching them, with a current AVERAGE lap speed record of a fraction under 134mph. That's just insanity at its finest.
Roll on next week. 8)
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Just last night actually I was going down an a road and my right earplug was not in properly having been out for a 50 mile ride I was fed up with wind blast noise so I ducked down below the the shield and my speed almost instantly went up, as you would expect so that is also a factor.
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Just last night actually I was going down an a road and my right earplug was not in properly having been out for a 50 mile ride I was fed up with wind blast noise so I ducked down below the the shield and my speed almost instantly went up, as you would expect so that is also a factor.
I think the cause of the speed increase will be arthritis :lol . As you moved your body down your shoulder and wrist went with it.
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:agree
I do fully expect the silver one to be slower than a black one though. This is why I will be repainting the one I have not :pokefun
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Cheeky bar steward :foc
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Let's hope this doesn't happen
https://youtu.be/vKw3xzyo68k
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Let's hope this doesn't happen
https://youtu.be/vKw3xzyo68k (https://youtu.be/vKw3xzyo68k)
That is the downside with high speeds, even looking well ahead doesn't really help predict things like that happening, and it is absolutely no fault whatsoever of the car driver.
Luckily no harm done in that video, apart from maybe a change of pants.
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Well honestly, I didn't go that quick...
141mph on the speedo - 129mph on the satnav with more to go.
...On the first day, I found unless I tucked in my arms and knees and got my head right down behind my double bubble windscreen, the bike was oscillating like mad from 120mph to 130mph!!!... and if I sat up under braking it got worse!!! :eek :eek
Previously I remember the bike being more stable, although that had been with a top box and panniers and prior to replacing the head bearings and servicing the forks. The steering is now really light and maybe the fork service changed the geometry a little?! who knows..? I'm also a bit heavier these days?!
So the following morning I did a tyre pressure check and put a little more in front and rear to get 38/42. It made it a bit better to ride so I decided to power through and found I could reduce the oscillation a little if I put in a slight steering input.
So the results...
When I tucked in, I got the needle past 140mph on the speedo and it was still pulling!!... However I looked down at the TomTom and that was showing just 129mph. This was all fast enough for me and not a speed I wanted to sustain, so I backed off. I would say on a sustained run the bike would hit an 'actual'/satnav speed of 135mph.
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Well honestly, I didn't go that quick...
141mph on the speedo - 129mph on the satnav with more to go.
...On the first day, I found unless I tucked in my arms and knees and got my head right down behind my double bubble windscreen, the bike was oscillating like mad from 120mph to 130mph!!!... and if I sat up under braking it got worse!!! :eek :eek
Previously I remember the bike being more stable, although that had been with a top box and panniers and prior to replacing the head bearings and servicing the forks. The steering is now really light and maybe the fork service changed the geometry a little?! who knows..? I'm also a bit heavier these days?!
So the following morning I did a tyre pressure check and put a little more in front and rear to get 38/42. It made it a bit better to ride so I decided to power through and found I could reduce the oscillation a little if I put in a slight steering input.
So the results...
When I tucked in, I got the needle past 140mph on the speedo and it was still pulling!!... However I looked down at the TomTom and that was showing just 129mph. This was all fast enough for me and not a speed I wanted to sustain, so I backed off. I would say on a sustained run the bike would hit an 'actual'/satnav speed of 135mph.
Is a sat nav more reliable than a speedo though?
As you say, and as i found too, it's not a desirable thing to ride at these speeds. The extra thinking and attention that is needed, looking way ahead for any lane changers, is hard work, as is the wind on your body, and bike.
It is something you need to do though just to get it out of your system.
Anyway, do i get a prize for saying 140mph? :)
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Well honestly, I didn't go that quick...
141mph on the speedo - 129mph on the satnav with more to go.
...On the first day, I found unless I tucked in my arms and knees and got my head right down behind my double bubble windscreen, the bike was oscillating like mad from 120mph to 130mph!!!... and if I sat up under braking it got worse!!! :eek :eek
Previously I remember the bike being more stable, although that had been with a top box and panniers and prior to replacing the head bearings and servicing the forks. The steering is now really light and maybe the fork service changed the geometry a little?! who knows..? I'm also a bit heavier these days?!
So the following morning I did a tyre pressure check and put a little more in front and rear to get 38/42. It made it a bit better to ride so I decided to power through and found I could reduce the oscillation a little if I put in a slight steering input.
So the results...
When I tucked in, I got the needle past 140mph on the speedo and it was still pulling!!... However I looked down at the TomTom and that was showing just 129mph. This was all fast enough for me and not a speed I wanted to sustain, so I backed off. I would say on a sustained run the bike would hit an 'actual'/satnav speed of 135mph.
Anyway, do i get a prize for saying 140mph? :)
Err - I said Silver = 141mph which was exacty right to the spedo
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Well honestly, I didn't go that quick...
141mph on the speedo - 129mph on the satnav with more to go.
...On the first day, I found unless I tucked in my arms and knees and got my head right down behind my double bubble windscreen, the bike was oscillating like mad from 120mph to 130mph!!!... and if I sat up under braking it got worse!!! :eek :eek
Previously I remember the bike being more stable, although that had been with a top box and panniers and prior to replacing the head bearings and servicing the forks. The steering is now really light and maybe the fork service changed the geometry a little?! who knows..? I'm also a bit heavier these days?!
So the following morning I did a tyre pressure check and put a little more in front and rear to get 38/42. It made it a bit better to ride so I decided to power through and found I could reduce the oscillation a little if I put in a slight steering input.
So the results...
When I tucked in, I got the needle past 140mph on the speedo and it was still pulling!!... However I looked down at the TomTom and that was showing just 129mph. This was all fast enough for me and not a speed I wanted to sustain, so I backed off. I would say on a sustained run the bike would hit an 'actual'/satnav speed of 135mph.
Anyway, do i get a prize for saying 140mph? :)
Err - I said Silver = 141mph which was exacty right to the spedo
Damn and blast, so you did :lol
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Is a sat nav more reliable than a speedo though?
I reckon it is.
I've read before that it is against laws/regulations for speedos to read less than the actual speed and therefore manufacturers 'play it safe'.
When my car speedo reads 30mph the sat-nav reads 28mph.
At 40 on the speedo it is 37mph on the sat-nav.
At 70 on the speedo it is 65mph on the sat-nav.
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Is a sat nav more reliable than a speedo though?
I reckon it is.
I've read before that it is against laws/regulations for speedos to read less than the actual speed and therefore manufacturers 'play it safe'.
When my car speedo reads 30mph the sat-nav reads 28mph.
At 40 on the speedo it is 37mph.
At 70 on the speedo it is 65mph.
On that way of thinking though if you get nicked for speeding how do you defend yourself correctly?
You can't really argue the fact that your speedo is technically out of calibration otherwise you'd probably get nicked for that as well?
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Is a sat nav more reliable than a speedo though?
I reckon it is.
I've read before that it is against laws/regulations for speedos to read less than the actual speed and therefore manufacturers 'play it safe'.
When my car speedo reads 30mph the sat-nav reads 28mph.
At 40 on the speedo it is 37mph on the sat-nav.
At 70 on the speedo it is 65mph on the sat-nav.
Just been having a look about and sure enough it mentions everywhere that manufacturers deliberately alter the speedo by "approximately" 8% to allow for certain things, ie: tyre wear, using tyres that started with quite high tread, which would eventually result in the wheel spinning quicker when just above the legal limit as the reading would change from when the tyre was new.
It's done to keep you under the limit by default because of the percentage discrepancy.
So on those maths, we should be getting 150mph, at a push, if the bike was new. I'd imagine that ship has sailed now, due to the age of them though, and wear and tear.
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Is a sat nav more reliable than a speedo though?
I reckon it is.
I've read before that it is against laws/regulations for speedos to read less than the actual speed and therefore manufacturers 'play it safe'.
When my car speedo reads 30mph the sat-nav reads 28mph.
At 40 on the speedo it is 37mph on the sat-nav.
At 70 on the speedo it is 65mph on the sat-nav.
Just been having a look about and sure enough it mentions everywhere that manufacturers deliberately alter the speedo by "approximately" 8% to allow for certain things, ie: tyre wear, using tyres that started with quite high tread, which would eventually result in the wheel spinning quicker when just above the legal limit as the reading would change from when the tyre was new.
It's done to keep you under the limit by default because of the percentage discrepancy.
So on those maths, we should be getting 150mph, at a push, if the bike was new. I'd imagine that ship has sailed now, due to the age of them though, and wear and tear.
So David Ike is right when he says we are all living in an altered reality, what else is not real.
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OK.
The law is that speedos are allowed to over read but are not allowed to under read. The maximum over read allowed is 10%. Speedos can never be 100% accurate.
On a car its easy to see why. A brand new tyre on the car has around 8mm of tread. A worn out one has 1.6mm. The difference in the rolling distance of the two is about 2%. This means physically travelling next to each other, two identical new cars with the new and worn out tyres will show different speeds of about 2%. Add in other factors like going round corners which makes one wheel turn faster than the other and it gets very confusing.
Now look at bikes. Which point on the tyre will the speed be accurate. When you are totally upright going in a straight line, or leant over going round a bend where you reduce the rolling radius even more?
Sat navs are more accurate but only in a straight line, on level ground, at a constant speed. Change any of the points here and the SATNAV is play catchup as it only calculates your speed between two points and assumes you are going at a steady speed in a straight line etc.
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OK.
The law is that speedos are allowed to over read but are not allowed to under read. The maximum over read allowed is 10%. Speedos can never be 100% accurate.
On a car its easy to see why. A brand new tyre on the car has around 8mm of tread. A worn out one has 1.6mm. The difference in the rolling distance of the two is about 2%. This means physically travelling next to each other, two identical new cars with the new and worn out tyres will show different speeds of about 2%. Add in other factors like going round corners which makes one wheel turn faster than the other and it gets very confusing.
Now look at bikes. Which point on the tyre will the speed be accurate. When you are totally upright going in a straight line, or leant over going round a bend where you reduce the rolling radius even more?
Sat navs are more accurate but only in a straight line, on level ground, at a constant speed. Change any of the points here and the SATNAV is play catchup as it only calculates your speed between two points and assumes you are going at a steady speed in a straight line etc.
So how does all that effect the mileage read out - total have I actually done more or less miles than when my clock says
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OK.
The law is that speedos are allowed to over read but are not allowed to under read. The maximum over read allowed is 10%. Speedos can never be 100% accurate.
On a car its easy to see why. A brand new tyre on the car has around 8mm of tread. A worn out one has 1.6mm. The difference in the rolling distance of the two is about 2%. This means physically travelling next to each other, two identical new cars with the new and worn out tyres will show different speeds of about 2%. Add in other factors like going round corners which makes one wheel turn faster than the other and it gets very confusing.
Now look at bikes. Which point on the tyre will the speed be accurate. When you are totally upright going in a straight line, or leant over going round a bend where you reduce the rolling radius even more?
Sat navs are more accurate but only in a straight line, on level ground, at a constant speed. Change any of the points here and the SATNAV is play catchup as it only calculates your speed between two points and assumes you are going at a steady speed in a straight line etc.
So how does all that effect the mileage read out - total have I actually done more or less miles than when my clock says
You've only actually done 100 miles in 19 years :lol
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Is a sat nav more reliable than a speedo though?
I reckon it is.
I've read before that it is against laws/regulations for speedos to read less than the actual speed and therefore manufacturers 'play it safe'.
When my car speedo reads 30mph the sat-nav reads 28mph.
At 40 on the speedo it is 37mph on the sat-nav.
At 70 on the speedo it is 65mph on the sat-nav.
Just been having a look about and sure enough it mentions everywhere that manufacturers deliberately alter the speedo by "approximately" 8% to allow for certain things, ie: tyre wear, using tyres that started with quite high tread, which would eventually result in the wheel spinning quicker when just above the legal limit as the reading would change from when the tyre was new.
It's done to keep you under the limit by default because of the percentage discrepancy.
So on those maths, we should be getting 150mph, at a push, if the bike was new. I'd imagine that ship has sailed now, due to the age of them though, and wear and tear.
So David Ike is right when he says we are all living in an altered reality, what else is not real.
No, he's just a nutter!
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So how does all that effect the mileage read out - total have I actually done more or less miles than when my clock says
In reality, you have probably done 5-10% less than shown in the odometer. The odo gets its feed from the speedo.
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So what should the service interval be then?! :\ :( :\ :(
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So what should the service interval be then?! :\ :( :\ :(
For what?
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So what should the service interval be then?! :\ :( :\ :(
As far as everyone cares, the odometer is correct and servicing is based on the reading there :pokefun . Reality is a bit different as most bikers don't do manufacturer mileage based servicing, they do it more often so the odo reading is pointless.
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So how does all that effect the mileage read out - total have I actually done more or less miles than when my clock says
In reality, you have probably done 5-10% less than shown in the odometer. The odo gets its feed from the speedo.
Great - I dont do enough and now your telling me I have done even less !
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So what should the service interval be then?! :\ :( :\ :(
That was a silly irrelevant joke and reference to the fact if the speedo is out 10%, you might be doing a 3000mile service, when you had only done 2700.
Anyway, I service my motorbike every 15,000 miles whether it needs it or not! :-p