Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: Graham53 on 13 March 2017, 03:52:51 pm
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i need some handling help badly :'(
I fitted Luke's R6 shock .... all good handling improved but thought it could be better so I ended up getting a garage to fit hagon progressives, I weighed up linear but as I'm going to be doing a fair bit of touring I went for progressives as a compromise. On getting it back coming on M25 it felt twitchy at high speeds and on getting home tyre pressures were 44front 48 rear (garage said they were low and did them ) so I put back to 36/42 and it was like running on flats and weaved so I upped them a bit to 40/44 and it improved, today I went out to see if it was suspension settings causing it so put back to 36/42 ( with my own new gauge ) and slowly bit by bit went through every combination of suspension settings but the front preload will not go to its softest setting it goes to 4 and a little bit then stops.
In all settings the front is like a pogo stick and On some settings it judders over even tiny bumps so hard my hands come off the bars, it was never like this standard so have the hagons been fitted wrongly ? What else could they have done to cause this, it gives no confidence in slower corners and feels like I'm tucking the front, it also feels like it's pulling to the right ( all settings even ) and in medium speed corners it feels like the front is under steering.
I had hel lines fitted at same time and now when pulling brake lever I get clunking( checked steering head bearing play and felt ok ) which I never had before and throw in the carburation problems I may or may not be having ( went to start after going in a shop and it backfired and every time it starts now there's very strong smell of fuel and difficult to start without handful of throttle ) and I'm about ready to throw in the towel with this bike and I'm wishing I got an FZ1 instead.
If anyone has any ideas please let me know
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I've only ever had progressive springs fitted once and absolutely hated them. I had similar issues to yours and went back to linear springs. Problem solved, although that was on a GSX1400. I have had the clunking noise on my Gen 2 though and that too was after fitting braided hoses. It turned out that the front calipers were worn and the clunking noise was the brake pads moving in the calipers under braking. I managed to find a very good set of second hand calipers, that came off a very low mileage bike, at a breakers for £120 and that too solved the problem. Can't help with your fuelling problem sorry.
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If the front was basically OK before the garage changed the springs, then logically the problems have been caused by their work. I would find it hard to believe that the springs alone could be causing such drastic handling concerns, so take it back and explain the symptoms.
It could be any of a number of things wrong with the installation, from springs fitted the wrong way up or binding in the stanchion; incorrect/too much/too little fork oil; fork dampers not properly bled etc.
I fitted Hyperpro progressives to a mate's Fazer many years ago and found them a definite improvement over the stock springs, so I don't discount progressive springs as eagerly as others seem to. :)
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Thanks Grayo and falcon
I'm going to go back to garage tomorrow, it seems Monday they're closed ( like a lot of garages oddly ) so I'm a bit stuck til then. I must confess to losing faith in the garage after they overtightened the chain ( didn't ask them to ) and did the tyre pressures so high ( again didn't ask them to ) and as it was there I got them to replace the heated grips and now the clutch side grip has come unstuck and moves around, I did due diligence and they had loads of good ratings online and a friend said they were good so don't know what else I can do
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Hi Graham your bike comes with progressive springs as standard, so they are what the bike was designed to run on. I have Hyperpro progressive springs in mine and Luke R6 shock kits. Had problems with mine to start with , spoke to Luke and he'd spent a lot of time helping me out, but the front settings back from Hyperpro settings to the Yamaha standard settings and very very much improved, will now run and see how I go.Do not give up, I think you're mechanics have got some thing wrong, speak to Luke he really knows his stuf and I am sure will help you out. Good luck.
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I would contact Hagon and ask if there are any specific recommendations for fitting their springs to the Fazer and then confirm with the workshop whether what they have don is correct. I know that Hyperpro recommend a 170mm air gap with their springs which is less oil than the Yamaha recommended 140mm air gap. If the Hagon springs also require less oil but the workshop have refilled to what Yamaha specify this could explain why the suspension doesn't feel right.
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Hi Graham your bike comes with progressive springs as standard, so they are what the bike was designed to run on. I have Hyperpro progressive springs in mine and Luke R6 shock kits. Had problems with mine to start with , spoke to Luke and he'd spent a lot of time helping me out, but the front settings back from Hyperpro settings to the Yamaha standard settings and very very much improved, will now run and see how I go.Do not give up, I think you're mechanics have got some thing wrong, speak to Luke he really knows his stuf and I am sure will help you out. Good luck.
Didn't know that OE was progressives, the ones I got back looked linear, I took all the settings back to standard factory fresh but noticed that rebound damping screws were really difficult to move, didn't know if that's normal.
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I would contact Hagon and ask if there are any specific recommendations for fitting their springs to the Fazer and then confirm with the workshop whether what they have don is correct. I know that Hyperpro recommend a 170mm air gap with their springs which is less oil than the Yamaha recommended 140mm air gap. If the Hagon springs also require less oil but the workshop have refilled to what Yamaha specify this could explain why the suspension doesn't feel right.
Just checked Hagons are 150mm gap. Not having the most experience with working on forks ( none) can I undo the tops to check the springs are in right way and measure oil gap without dismantling them entirely ?
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Hi Graham your bike comes with progressive springs as standard, so they are what the bike was designed to run on.
Actually not true, the forks actually have a damping system that works in a linear range wheareas prog springs work exponentially so not an ideal match in engineering terms. Prog springs are sometimes fitted because the weaker part of the spring has a less harsh compression so feels more comfy. The correct linear spring works at least as well and often better than a prog spring.
The standard springs are dual rate i think.
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Yup standard springs are dual rate, I've just had a fight with a curtain of spiders webs to grab them out of the shed for a look.
I really feel there must be something amiss with fitting and suspicious of mechanic to have upped the tyre pressures so high after telling me they were so low it was almost unridable which I knew they weren't, then telling me that they put in the standard pressures of 36/42 which I knew they hadn't, I didn't put in 44/48(cold pressures) unless it was the tyre pixies it sounds to me he took it for a test ride and found the problems I'm having and upped the pressures to cover it.
Looks like I've got a lot of telephoning to do tomorrow, I feel a mr angry day coming on 😡
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I must be a bit weird as having read all the posts about how awful the standard suspension is and not having a huge budget at the moment, I bought a BMW S1000RR rear shock ready to start improving the handling on my bike at an early stage.
Well so far I've been surprised that the stock suspension seems to work pretty well although I appreciate the roads are still cold so I'm not pushing as hard as I will be doing in the summer. The rear suspension was on very soft settings when I got the bike and the front quite firm. I've upped the damping on the rear shock to just a click above the stock settings and so far it's been fine.
I'm getting new top hat bushings machined by a friend for the BMW shock this week and he'll drill the bottom fork at the same time so it will be ready to fit if I feel the need, as for the front I'll look at upgrading that if I do change the rear.
I have standard rubber hoses on my brakes and they work fine, they're actually much stronger than the brakes I had on my GSXR1000 K8, though the Gixxer brakes are renowned for being weak.
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If you say where you stay maybe someone could recommend a different garage or a more technical foccer could maybe come have a look at the forks?
It sounds like that garage is not working for you with all the issues though so i would definitely be looking at somewhere different, maybe a suspension orientated place?
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If you say where you stay maybe someone could recommend a different garage or a more technical foccer could maybe come have a look at the forks?
It sounds like that garage is not working for you with all the issues though so i would definitely be looking at somewhere different, maybe a suspension orientated place?
Thanks Tefer, I'm in Essex nr to Epping. There seems to be a distinct lack of decent mechanics ( that I've heard of ) and this one came recommended but after overtightening the chain and when I pointed it out was told " oh you don't want to take notice of what the handbook says that's too loose" my head said run away, unfortunately that was after they'd done the work and I'd never asked them to adjust the chain, then told me the tyre pressures was low and when I pointed out they'd done them too high suggested that all garage forecourt air lines were wrong and my gauge wasn't calibrated correctly. They also tried selling me a dynojet kit saying that they were better than Ivan's as they do more R&D and every Fazer owner that had a dynojet kit fitted by them was impressed with the outcome. Needless to say I don't want to go back there even if the springs were fitted incorrectly I've got no confidence they'll do it right second time
MCT are my next call, they do a ride in and ride out service so I'll see what they can do/suggest they're about a 2 hour ride but most of it's straight road so I might be ok 😀
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Yeah i would defo be looking elsewhere, unfortunately i'm in Bonnie Scotland so can't help you with a garage in Essex. Hopefully another foccer will now see and maybe give some other options, otherwise its gonna be that 2 hour ride, maybe not a bad thing on a nice day. :D
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Wow, you got to hand it to them, they foc yer bike yet they want to sell you stuff, play with your carbs and really mess it up.
Should be a thread of recommended bike mechanics and not so recommended bike mechanics.
Probs not the legal thing to do though.
Who are these guys just in case I'm in the area,I do go to Essex now and again.
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Not sure either but ... the last time I had work done on my bike it was S&D motorcycles Brentwood, look them up, Google, facetube , yell , all got top ratings,
I just called MCT and got bike booked in for the front suspension to be done at least I know they won't foc it up, got to wait til end of May though. Until then it's going back to stock
Re the idea of recommended garages/ dealers etc I think it's a great idea . Sort of a Trusted Fazers instead of trusted traders :)
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Graham - bit of a ride for you but I always use Sopers of Leigh-on-Sea. Excellent service and decent prices.
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Graham - bit of a ride for you but I always use Sopers of Leigh-on-Sea. Excellent service and decent prices.
My local shop too when I'm staying in my Essex pad, I also use Paul over the road in Southsea Avenue for jobs I can't be arsed doing myself.
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Thanks gents , I don't mind the ride if I know it's trustworthy , I've just noticed now that the hel lines they fitted ( I thought let them do it as they're doing springs saves me the fluid everywhere) rub against the clocks on full lock :'( .
The biggest problem is getting back home and back there again to pick it up I could always combine it with a day at the seaside :) fish chips n service.
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Hi Graham your bike comes with progressive springs as standard, so they are what the bike was designed to run on. I have Hyperpro progressive springs in mine and Luke R6 shock kits. Had problems with mine to start with , spoke to Luke and he'd spent a lot of time helping me out, but the front settings back from Hyperpro settings to the Yamaha standard settings and very very much improved, will now run and see how I go.Do not give up, I think you're mechanics have got some thing wrong, speak to Luke he really knows his stuf and I am sure will help you out. Good luck.
I was told that the FZS 600 came with Progressive springs as standard, but in fact they are not progressive they are 'Dual Rate' springs please see photo of the springs i removed from my FZS 600.
Progressive Spring as the name implies change rate slowly from one end to the other (Slow change in the pitch of the spring from one end to the other) = smooth increasing compression transition, stiffening throughout their length, should equal better handling.
Dual Rate Spring (See picture) again as the name implies two compression rates, after the initial softer rate is overcome the second harder or stiffer rate come into play causing changes in the motorcycles geometry (Especially when cranked over into a bend and hitting undulations in the road surface) = arse clamping up and nasty marks in your Y fronts.
See the piccy and the spring rate changes at the place my finger is pointing.
My understanding is that progressives are a vast improvement on the Standard Yamaha Springs, but it is a 'One Spring Suits All' situation
Ideally one spring can not suit a 9 stone rider and the same spring suit a 20 stone rider, it will always be a compromise.
With Linear the spring rate stays the same throughout the total length of the spring,
of course progression still comes into play but it does not change rate = better stability, constant contact and feel and little or no diving in or running wide on a bend because of geometry changes because of bumps and lumps mid bend. You purchase the spring rate to suit your on board rider weight.
Please remember these rantings are only my opinion and lots of others will have differing opinions, its a bit like tyre choice, brake pads, engine oil, air filters, braided lines, (Only it's nothing like those choices really I am just saying that to patronise you) but of course when it comes to bike colour choice it's SILVER every time = no choice :lol
Lots of very cleaver guys on here when it comes to suspension Kabab19 and Devilsyam for a start, look up their writings and thoughts on the subject, me I'm just a newbie, still learning and still getting it wrong sometimes.
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Graham you are doing the right thing the guys at MCT really know their stuff, I've used them three times now and there is nothing out there they can't sort. They know proper "real world" stuff too, so aside from brilliant race set ups can do whatever normal road stuff people like me and you want. Btw dynojet stuff is good, but Ivan's fazer and fz1 tuning gubbins walks all over it..IMHO obviously..
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Just a note on your front end 'clunking'. It's worth noting that most bikes with telescopic forks need to be tweaked up correctly when the forks have been removed and refitted.
The way I do it, is to put all front end back on then (maybe do a few miles to settle all the variables) then slacken off the lower clamping bolts (leave the top tight) and carefully compress and decompress the forks a few times. Then with the forks compress nip the bottom clamps back up. This always cures clunking for me and is to do with the fact that the headstock bearings are tapered and need be squared-up (probably a few seconds of angle into a trapezoid, viewed side on).
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Thanks Ogri and pilingas 👍🏻 I'll try the front "tweaking" hopefully tomorrow
I was originally going to go to MCT but the wait time was so long And I was thinking of going R1 front end later on this year and was persuaded that progressives were the way forward to improve the handling in the interim I think they were fitted wrongly or hagon were the wrong choice as it was advice from the guy at the garage who said he had previously owned a fazer , who after doing the work then told me dynojet were superior while trying to get me to have one fitted and Ivan's being American were not suitable for GB bikes due to their poor fuel ,higher weather temperatures and ( the best one ) elevation above sea level as well as R&D time. Maybe I would have had a better result with hyperpro fitted somewhere different but it is what it is and big lesson learned.
On A plus note, I'm having the back fence done with double gates so I can bring my bikes in to the back of the house which will enable me to do a bit more work of my own, although with my track record of breaking things lately that could make things worse :)
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Hi Graham,
A company you could ring is HM Racing.They're in Edenbridge not too far off the M25 (01732869920).Trouble is most suspension firms are busy this time of the year with the onset of new race seasons in all sorts of disciplines.A phone call won't hurt though. :)
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Regarding checking the airgap,you can only do this with a collapsed fork leg with the spring removed.One thing I struggled wirh a few months ago,and posted the problem on here, was that I found it impossible to maintain the stated airgap as well as having anything like the correct amount of fork oil.In the end I rang a main dealer whose mechanic said they would only concentrate on the correct volume of oil and not bother achieving he correct airgap.I can't remember the actual figures but would have had to remove something like 35cc of oil to get the correct gap.Pity you're not a bit nearer or I'd come and give you a hand.
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Just a note on your front end 'clunking'. It's worth noting that most bikes with telescopic forks need to be tweaked up correctly when the forks have been removed and refitted.
The way I do it, is to put all front end back on then (maybe do a few miles to settle all the variables) then slacken off the lower clamping bolts (leave the top tight) and carefully compress and decompress the forks a few times. Then with the forks compress nip the bottom clamps back up. This always cures clunking for me and is to do with the fact that the headstock bearings are tapered and need be squared-up (probably a few seconds of angle into a trapezoid, viewed side on).
Er, surely the bearings should be 'squared up' using the adjusting nuts, On taper bearings make sure the cones are set properly in the head then when you insert the stem and races you slightly overtighten and then back off until the bearing moves freely without any play. This would pre-empt any nasty clunking, which to me sounds like a good way to damage the bearings.
What you describe above sounds sorta like a way of trueing up the fork tubes -not the bearings, heaven forbid. An easy way to untwist fork tubes/yokes is to slacken off wheel spindle and clamps and gently bump the front wheel square with a wall, then get a mate to tighten everything up whilst you hold the bike steady.
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I can recommend race engineering in great dunmow they could set up or fix, had mine set up there.
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Regarding checking the airgap,you can only do this with a collapsed fork leg with the spring removed.One thing I struggled wirh a few months ago,and posted the problem on here, was that I found it impossible to maintain the stated airgap as well as having anything like the correct amount of fork oil.In the end I rang a main dealer whose mechanic said they would only concentrate on the correct volume of oil and not bother achieving he correct airgap.I can't remember the actual figures but would have had to remove something like 35cc of oil to get the correct gap.Pity you're not a bit nearer or I'd come and give you a hand.
My understanding is also as Robbo has said, the forks need to be collapsed
Ie: Stanchions/Legs right down into the Sliders/Fork Bottoms and the spring and all internals removed (With the exception of the Damper Rods of course) before taking the air gap measurement, you can not check the air gap with the forks extended and internals all in place.
Part of the air gap is the displacement of all the internals including springs, if you collapse the forks and do you air gap test with the internals in place your forks will be really short of oil when extended, resulting in bottoming out on larger bumps.
Alternatively if you do set your air gap with the forks extended, you will over fill them, and will end up suffering with a form of Hydro Lock, which will lock the forks up solid resulting in little or no suspension movement what-so-ever, or best case scenario really harsh action.
The oil needs a space to transfer to when your forks compress, the oil passes or is 'jetted' through the holes in the Damper Rods (emulators if you have them fitted) but needs somewhere to go, if the fork tubes are over filled there is no space for that jetted oil and forks lock up (oil does not compress like air)
it is important to get the air gap or fork oil capacity right, I even had to take into account the fact that I was placing cartridge emulators in my forks and reduce the oil capacity by a couple of millilitres each leg to take these into account. I ended up with 475 millilitres of 17.5 weight oil in each fork leg on my FZS 600 with the emulators set at 3 full turns from initial emulator spring contact.
What amazed me more than anything about front forks is how they are impacted by the rear suspension.
If you have poor rear suspension the front will never be right, you will never get the best out of you forks.
Hit a bump whilst in a bend with a shot or soft back shocker the back of the bike dips harshly at the same time as the swinging arm rises., causing the front of the bike to rise and the tyre to run light on the road, the last thing you want mid bend.
Kebab19 is the man to look up in here, he has many posts with regard to front suspension and these posts have been so helpful to me and my modding of the front end.
Devilsyam is the man according to what I hear (Never spoken to the guy myself) but apparently what he doesn't know about the rear end of the Fazer is not worth knowing.
Sorry for such a long post but her-in-doors says I'm a old gas bag. But this stuff is important if you are going to get the best from your bike, if the bike handle poorly you will not be inspired to ride it as much.
Little update:
It's playtime
if you place one hand on top of the other put a little upward pressure on the lower hand and a little downward pressure on the upper hand (pressing them together) now raise your elbows do that they are horizontal or roughly level with your shoulders, now your right arm is you swing arm on your bike, your left arm is the front end of your bike, jerk your right elbow downwards, that's the action you get when the swing arm rapidly compresses your rear shocker and the swing arm lifts lifts up, the wheel rises and the back of the bike has to drop to keep contact with the road. when you do this rapid dropping action with your right elbow, see what happen to your left elbow, that is the front of your bike, you have now lost a lot of contact with the road, the front wheel is running light and the whole geometry of the bike has changed. The back end really does effect the front.
Compression, Rebound and Sag all need to be right, at both ends of the bike.
Now shut the f--k up tommy and go out and ride the bike in the sunshine.
Gone
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Had a great little ride out this afternoon in the sunshine, did not go far, about 14 miles I guess, down to a local lake and took some piccys of the Baby FSZ in the sunshine, turning around, visiting some friend for a chin wag and a cup of tea before going home and booking my families trip to St Louis to visit my Son (Jack) at the end of May this year.
London HR to Chicago O'hare to St Louis, Missouri.
Not been State-side since 1998 so looking forward to it, just going for 12 days as her-in-doors has to get back for school half term re-starting, no she not a school girl she a teacher, she gets a week half term and the college have given her a weeks sort of sabbatical as she has worked in the same college for 32 years.
Woo woo! look out America. :guitar Duelling banjos :2guns Guns, and we all know about the red necks :moon
tommy :eek
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Thanks for all the replies guys sorry for late Reply but been laid up in bed with man flu ( the worst kind ) and especially to Robbo for the offer of help :) it is quite a trot over to me from Surrey but I appreciate the offer.
I'll probably give Race engineering a call if they can do earlier than the end of May like MTC I might give em a try.
It seems the racing season is putting a long wait for decent services as I've booked the bike it for carb cleaning and set up at Sparklight Racing for beginning April and that was a struggle due to work for race teams.
I think I know now that the springs were fitted badly/wrong as trying to adjust rebound damping is nearly impossible as the screws are so tight which doesn't sound normal so might just get the OE springs put back in.
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i need some handling help badly :'(
I fitted Luke's R6 shock .... all good handling improved but thought it could be better so I ended up getting a garage to fit hagon progressives, I weighed up linear but as I'm going to be doing a fair bit of touring I went for progressives as a compromise. On getting it back coming on M25 it felt twitchy at high speeds and on getting home tyre pressures were 44front 48 rear (garage said they were low and did them ) so I put back to 36/42 and it was like running on flats and weaved so I upped them a bit to 40/44 and it improved, today I went out to see if it was suspension settings causing it so put back to 36/42 ( with my own new gauge ) and slowly bit by bit went through every combination of suspension settings but the front preload will not go to its softest setting it goes to 4 and a little bit then stops.
In all settings the front is like a pogo stick and On some settings it judders over even tiny bumps so hard my hands come off the bars, it was never like this standard so have the hagons been fitted wrongly ? What else could they have done to cause this, it gives no confidence in slower corners and feels like I'm tucking the front, it also feels like it's pulling to the right ( all settings even ) and in medium speed corners it feels like the front is under steering.
I had hel lines fitted at same time and now when pulling brake lever I get clunking( checked steering head bearing play and felt ok ) which I never had before and throw in the carburation problems I may or may not be having ( went to start after going in a shop and it backfired and every time it starts now there's very strong smell of fuel and difficult to start without handful of throttle ) and I'm about ready to throw in the towel with this bike and I'm wishing I got an FZ1 instead.
If anyone has any ideas please let me know
Just reading Graham's post above again.
Makes me wonder, It is just a thought.
There are ordinary washer type spacers in the forks, one in each leg (On the FZS 600) they are approximately a 35 mm diameter metal washer with a perhaps 20mm hole in the centre of them, also there is a solid 35 mm washer type disk with no hole in it (Plain disk), again one in each leg, the plain disk goes on to the top of the tube spring spacer, and the yoke mounted Pre-Load adjuster pushes down on the top of the solid spacer disk and compresses the spring Ie: Pre-Load.
The hollow washer goes under the spring, as it allows oil to pass through the hole and not form a barrier.
If the washer and disk in one leg are the right way around, but, visa versa in the other leg the Pre-load adjuster will pass through the hole in the incorrectly placed hollow washer and apply no compression to the spring. Ie: No Pre-load, also the solid washer could form a barrier at the base of the spring stopping the free flow of oil that is needed when the forks are under compression from hitting undulations in the road, or even stop the forks from plunging as far as they should.
These are just the ramblings and thoughts on the subject, and, could very well be way off the mark, but it is a thought.
But bearing in mind that I am talking from the point of understanding how the forks work on an FZS 600 with Damper Rod type of forks.
Not sure if the Mighty Thou is Damper Rod or Cartridge Forks.
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Also Aftermarket springs are not always the exact same length as the original springs, if they are longer than the originals then the tube spacers needs to be cut down accordingly, if they are shorter you need to add 35 MM Penny washers to the top of the spring to make up that shortfall, remembering to place the solid disk washer type spacer at the top for pre-load contact.
Below is a link for the correct sized Penny Washers. 35 mm washers with a 12 mm hole
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181741976153?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=480688381162&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181741976153?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=480688381162&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
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Also Aftermarket springs are not always the exact same length as the original springs, if they are longer than the originals then the tube spacers needs to be cut down accordingly, if they are shorter you need to add 35 MM Penny washers to the top of the spring to make up that shortfall, remembering to place the solid disk washer type spacer at the top for pre-load contact.
Below is a link for the correct sized Penny Washers. 35 mm washers with a 12 mm hole
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181741976153?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=480688381162&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181741976153?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=480688381162&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/url])
I looked up the Hagon and it says that if any spacers are required to fit correctly they are supplied, I assume although not seen them that hagons are longer but the box is bigger than the OE springs returned to me (thankfully I asked for them back !!) I have also been searching around the interweb and come across a post from years ago on here where someone points out that although Yamaha manual states there are 5 preload settings he's had 3 gen 1's and on all the those bikes the adjuster settings go to 4 and a half marks on the adjuster so all sounds normal on the preload.
Many thanks to Tefer who through a contact has got me a number of someone who is reputable near to me whom Im going to call soon and hopefully sort out these progressives or put back the OE Springs until I go to MTC for the linears at the end of May.
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air gap and oil
I second checking this, I would also check oil weight Hagon want to go with thier spring (I would have thought the same as stock)
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Hi Graham how was the trip home?has the bike improved? Has Mike's suspension mods helped?