old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: rw711 on 21 December 2016, 11:30:35 pm
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Hi I am new (put a thread on introductions a few nights ago.)
I've got a coolant drip above the engine it seems to be dropping down above no3, cylinder HT lead- then making its way out through the plug drain holes on the fins.
Gonna have to take the tank off and investigate anyway, but just wondered if anyone had any ideas? - it might save a bit of time?
also does anyone know correct diameter for exhaust clamp?
Cheers :thumbup
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When you remove the tank-firstly undo the front tank mount bolt & loosen rear bolt so you can raise tank & wedge a piece of soft wood under front as a prop which gives access to the fuel tap-turn off and remove fuel hose @ tap & disconnect fuel gauge wire @ connector block. Then you can undo rear bolt & remove tank.
There are several hoses that are now visible-you should be able to spot the culprit. Big hoses connect to thermostat unit and you have a small bore drain hose from pressure cap that exits somewhere in front of rear wheel. Also, while tank is off just check condition of carburettor heater hoses-again small bore hose-although a leak from here would not run down the top of engine obviously. When refitting tank check that tank breather/drain hoses arent kinked & correctly routed. Finally top up coolant in overflow reservoir.
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Hello rw711
The leak, especially if dripping over number 3 spark cylinder, is most likely to be loose jubilee clips around the thermostat housing, or a lesser chance of the filler cap not done up correctly.
If you want to do things on the quick, then just undo the front tank bolt and get someone to hold the tank up for you. You can wedge it up but it's not ideal or very safe to be honest, although i have done it myself before.
As the coolant is a sticky liquid, it will shine and show up with torch light where it is leaking from, so get the bike out of any sunlight and into the shade, or a garage, or even wait 'til it's dark, and it will become quite obvious where it is leaking from.
The jubilee clips will probably just need nipping up, or if you're very unlucky you may need to replace a pipe, but i very much doubt it.
Once you think you've found the culprit and dealt with it, give the area a wipe over with a hose and a rag, so that if the leak persists you'll be able to spot it easier next time you look.
As it's a new bike to you, once you've found the leak and sorted it, i would consider buying some Radflush from Halfrauds, and giving the system a good clean out.
It "may" be leaking due to pressure if the waterways are a bit clogged up so would need sorting out sooner rather than later.
A good tell tale sign of this would be to put your bike on the centre stand on level ground, then look under the rear seat on the right side of the bike at the coolant level in the white plastic expansion (overflow) tank.
Just give the bike a little rock and there is a lower/upper level where you should see liquid. If your system isn't air tight or is clogged up it's gonna cause problems and i'm gonna take a wild guess that either your coolant level either shows as very low or there's nothing there at all.
As you well know, with winter around the corner this is one area of the bike you want to be protected from the cold, so another good reason to make sure it's all leak free and air tight.
Any questions, feel free to ask. :thumbup
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Hi - Thanks to you both for taking the time to provide so much information. I'll hopefully be taking a look at it over the time between xmas & new year.
Yep its a new bike and new manufacturer for me - so though I've had bikes all along even the procedure for removing the tanks and layout varies
- so all these tips will save time :thumbup
Thinking of changing oil & filters - so yes makes to change the coolant too , start with a clean sheet!
- will let you know how we get on.
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Mine had a leak there and it was the o-ring between the two halves of the thermostat housing.
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Mine had a leak there and it was the o-ring between the two halves of the thermostat housing.
That will be the next place to look, if none of above, thanks :)
- can you get the o-ring seperately or did you have to replace the whole thing?
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Mine had a leak there and it was the o-ring between the two halves of the thermostat housing.
That will be the next place to look, if none of above, thanks :)
- can you get the o-ring seperately or did you have to replace the whole thing?
https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/genuineparts/9657/6/yamaha-fzs600sp-fazer-2000/water-pump?uID=0 (https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/genuineparts/9657/6/yamaha-fzs600sp-fazer-2000/water-pump?uID=0)
Exhaust Clamp 51mm-55mm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-SN-Fazer-5DMB-RJ022-2000-Mikalor-Stainless-Exhaust-Clamp-EXC515-/361443872963?hash=item5427bbd0c3:g:BOsAAOSwnipWYxDR (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-SN-Fazer-5DMB-RJ022-2000-Mikalor-Stainless-Exhaust-Clamp-EXC515-/361443872963?hash=item5427bbd0c3:g:BOsAAOSwnipWYxDR)
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Changing the air filter is definitely a tank off job. I would always suggest a K&N air filter for these bikes, they simply run extremely well with them. And they're guaranteed for the life of the bike so it'll just involve cleaning it few and far between rather than keep replacing it.
There is always the possibility it may already have one in though so bear that in mind. They tend to be darker in colour than the standard paper ones, but should have the K&N logo on the top if there is one. Whatever you decide, do not go for the cheapest one you can find on Ebay, as you could well find that it under performs in comparison, as in it doesn't breathe well enough.
Over the last few months i've using a new brand of oil, from a British company that are obviously not too well known, but i've had no issues with it whatsoever and will be using it again from now on, i am more than happy with it. Sometimes changing oils can cause minor troubles like gear changing issues and clutch plates sticking, but this stuff has been spot on. Even better still, it's at a bargain price, there's 5 litres of it, and it's Fully Synthetic. A 100% thumbs up from me, and i am very fussy about anything i buy, so if anything doesn't reach my standards it ends up being binned. :thumbup
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10W-40-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W40-5L-Westway-Lubricants-/111838861309?hash=item1a0a1d97fd:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10W-40-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W40-5L-Westway-Lubricants-/111838861309?hash=item1a0a1d97fd:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf)
Another forum member posted this yesterday which was a good deal as well for an oil filter.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hiflo-Oil-Filter-HF147-Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-5DM-5RT-1998-2003-/361857267169?hash=item54405fb5e1:g:eIkAAOSwtpZYSDrX (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hiflo-Oil-Filter-HF147-Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-5DM-5RT-1998-2003-/361857267169?hash=item54405fb5e1:g:eIkAAOSwtpZYSDrX)
I've always had a ready preference for premixed coolant in my bike, but this one is very much down to the individual.
The fact that my cooling system has always remained in tip top shape over the years says to me that this stuff is doing its job very well all year round in hot and cold weather so i will keep on using it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motul-MotoCool-Expert-25-1-litre-/281919820504?hash=item41a3bb12d8:g:3nUAAOSwpRRWp03o (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motul-MotoCool-Expert-25-1-litre-/281919820504?hash=item41a3bb12d8:g:3nUAAOSwpRRWp03o)
Obviously as it's the festive season you may have trouble getting some, if not all, of these to play with due to holidays, but there's a few pointers for you anyway.
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Is it worth trying to save £10 ? against this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Power-1-4T-10W-40-Motorcycle-Bike-Oil-4-Stroke-4L-FREE-5L-SCREEN-WASH-/322328072791?hash=item4b0c401257:g:WeQAAOSwHMJYEfuF (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Power-1-4T-10W-40-Motorcycle-Bike-Oil-4-Stroke-4L-FREE-5L-SCREEN-WASH-/322328072791?hash=item4b0c401257:g:WeQAAOSwHMJYEfuF)
We need an emoji for opening a can of worms
This may help with the coolant change http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10671.0.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10671.0.html)
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Is it worth trying to save £10 ? against this [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Power-1-4T-10W-40-Motorcycle-Bike-Oil-4-Stroke-4L-FREE-5L-SCREEN-WASH-/322328072791?hash=item4b0c401257:g:WeQAAOSwHMJYEfuF[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Power-1-4T-10W-40-Motorcycle-Bike-Oil-4-Stroke-4L-FREE-5L-SCREEN-WASH-/322328072791?hash=item4b0c401257:g:WeQAAOSwHMJYEfuF[/url])
We need an emoji for opening a can of worms
This may help with the coolant change [url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10671.0.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10671.0.html[/url])
I'm not trying to save money at all, makes no odds to me.
It would appear though that i've found a decent product without getting mugged off all because it has a known brand name on.
We've had this discussion before when i was told in a shop that 2 items, i think they were heated grips, were exactly the same product but because one had 'Oxford' packaging they could charge £30+ more.
And as i've also said before, you can't go creating oil and selling it, unless it meets strict standards and regulations.
It's good gear, trust me. :D
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Yep as I said - can of worms.
But isnt the fazer supposed to be full mineral or at best/worst? semmi synth
And if oil is oil then why not wilkinsons own as that is even cheeper and everyone has a wilko near them-----can of worms
EDIT
Actually I don't think they do bike oil
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Yep as I said - can of worms.
But isnt the fazer supposed to be full mineral or at best/worst? semmi synth
And if oil is oil then why not wilkinsons own as that is even cheeper and everyone has a wilko near them-----can of worms
EDIT
Actually I don't think they do bike oil
Semi Synthetic is £18.99.
"...bikes that need semi synthetic oil must use at least semi synthetic but can benefit from upgrading to fully synthetic for better protection and performance..."
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Our bikes use semi synthetic as standard oil.
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"...bikes that need semi synthetic oil must use at least semi synthetic but can benefit from upgrading to fully synthetic for better protection and performance..."
Our bikes use semi synthetic as standard oil.
I always thought it was the other way round in that our bikes should use non synth BUT semi synth is ok but not fully synth.
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"...bikes that need semi synthetic oil must use at least semi synthetic but can benefit from upgrading to fully synthetic for better protection and performance..."
Our bikes use semi synthetic as standard oil.
I always thought it was the other way round in that our bikes should use non synth BUT semi synth is ok but not fully synth.
Oopsie..... :lol
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"...bikes that need semi synthetic oil must use at least semi synthetic but can benefit from upgrading to fully synthetic for better protection and performance..."
Our bikes use semi synthetic as standard oil.
I always thought it was the other way round in that our bikes should use non synth BUT semi synth is ok but not fully synth.
Oopsie..... :lol
That ebay oil you linked to is fully synth
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"...bikes that need semi synthetic oil must use at least semi synthetic but can benefit from upgrading to fully synthetic for better protection and performance..."
Our bikes use semi synthetic as standard oil.
I always thought it was the other way round in that our bikes should use non synth BUT semi synth is ok but not fully synth.
Oopsie..... :lol
That ebay oil you linked to is fully synth
I know, that was my whole point.
I've upgraded for a sensible cost, and i'm totally happy with it.
5 litres as well, not 4.
You can save some for your barnet. :)
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I always thought that you should not use fully synth in the fzs 600
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I managed to change the air filter (K&N) by tilting the petrol tank forward and propping up with softwood (2003 Foxeye). It can be done. Agree K&N filter is very worthwhile.
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I managed to change the air filter (K&N) by tilting the petrol tank forward and propping up with softwood (2003 Foxeye). It can be done. Agree K&N filter is very worthwhile.
Tilting it forward?
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Yes. Undoing front bolt. Taking out back bolt and raising it at the back.
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I always thought that you should not use fully synth in the fzs 600
Says who?
I'm using it, the bike's loving it, the price is good and it's the correct 10w/40 grade.
What's the problem?
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I always use fully synthetic too. Runs silky smooth
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I always thought that you should not use fully synth in the fzs 600
Says who?
I'm using it, the bike's loving it, the price is good and it's the correct 10w/40 grade.
What's the problem?
I dont know who said and I don't know why, think it says in the workshop manual ??
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I always thought that you should not use fully synth in the fzs 600
Says who?
I'm using it, the bike's loving it, the price is good and it's the correct 10w/40 grade.
What's the problem?
I dont know who said and I don't know why, think it says in the workshop manual ??
You read too much, that book's over 18 years old. :lol
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I've just been on the oil selector section of the Castrol website and it shows the Power 1 Racing 4T oil for the FZS 600.
That's the fully synthetic one isn't it?.
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There is also a Power 1 4t (none racing ) this http://www.halfords.com/motoring/motorcycling/motorcycle-oils/castrol-power-1-4t-10w-40-motorcycle-engine-oil-1ltr (http://www.halfords.com/motoring/motorcycling/motorcycle-oils/castrol-power-1-4t-10w-40-motorcycle-engine-oil-1ltr)
Which is what I have which is semi synth
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bah humbug
as i understand fully synth eats clutch plates but is better for the engine at higher revs
merry berry
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I remember reading several times in other places in the past about avoiding fully synthetic oils in wet sump bikes and have opted for semi-synth myself, but it seems there's lots of fully synthetic available for just such use :\
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Go for the semi synthetic grade then.
The point i was making was i found decent oil at a good price.
5 litres of Westway Oil semi is £18.99 on Ebay, even more of a bargain!
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Wow you go out to drive a bus for a few hours and come back to 2 pages of oil debate! :rollin
thanks for the exhaust clamp link got one on the way and a gasket seal, incidentally its cheaper to buy them on their own rather than together on Ebay. ( Take a look at mad4bikes on Ebay if you haven't already- :) freepost too)
FWIW think oil is or can be a personal choice, I cant see the sense in paying extra for brandnames as you can check grades/spec etc through labelling.
- as to semi/fully synthetic I've personally always gone down the semi route, partly on grounds of type of use and price.
I'd read about aggressive qualities of fully synth on the Kawasaki forums , if you are going to be regularly racing or thrashing the bike then its maybe worthwhile as you may need to replace parts affected more often anyway. I reckon for road use semi-synth is gonna be plenty good enough.
The Westway stuff would be in contention except they wont ship to my postcode (Highlands & Islands) despite my address being on the mainland which is a personal bugbear of mine - I could get it sent to our Glasgow depot and bring it down on the bus though.
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To be honest, the recommended oil change is 6000 miles, i change mine every 4000 miles.
I spoil my bike, just a little, so for the money, and timespan, the oil is generally always good anyway.
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Yep I noticed there were differing service intervals from reading up mine is a 5DMC model so should be good for 6000 changes but gonna do every 5k, just for the simple reason its easier to remember! I'll count the first one as 50k - then do 55, 60 etc etc. even though its 51k atm
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Yep I noticed there were differing service intervals from reading up mine is a 5DMC model so should be good for 6000 changes but gonna do every 5k, just for the simple reason its easier to remember! I'll count the first one as 50k - then do 55, 60 etc etc. even though its 51k atm
Models mean nothing, the engines are the same, hence the reason we're still chatting about them now ;)
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http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,34.0.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,34.0.html)
aye this was the thread I was reading, seemingly changed in 2001 from 4000- 6000 despite nothing changing :lol
- 5000 seems a good compromise - and easy to remember
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[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,34.0.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,34.0.html[/url])
aye this was the thread I was reading, seemingly changed in 2001 from 4000- 6000 despite nothing changing :lol
- 5000 seems a good compromise - and easy to remember
Oil loses its lubricating qualities over time.
This will no doubt be affected by how the bike is ridden, heat, cold, etc.
My bikes mainly used to go to and from work, so i'm not exactly ripping the nuts out of it, which means me changing the oil every 4000 miles is probably not really necessary, but it certainly won't hurt the thing.
It's a bit like women and shoes, they don't really need them, they only have two feet and there's plenty of wear left in the ones they bought years ago, but it's not doing anyone any harm replacing them anyway. :lol
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in my service book it is 4000 mile intervals for the oil change 99 boxeye
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hi peeps
i was led to consider that the fully synth is hard on the clutch but easy on the engine.
especialy at higher revs.
merryberry
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in my service book it is 4000 mile intervals for the oil change 99 boxeye
That changed later on to 6000 miles.
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hi peeps
i was led to consider that the fully synth is hard on the clutch but easy on the engine.
especialy at higher revs.
merryberry
Where's this info from, 'cos i haven't seen any such advice anywhere?
http://www.zxforums.com/forums/oil-lubrication/13675-clearing-up-myths-synthetic-oil-wet-clutches.html (http://www.zxforums.com/forums/oil-lubrication/13675-clearing-up-myths-synthetic-oil-wet-clutches.html)
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It's a bit like women and shoes, they don't really need them, they only have two feet and there's plenty of wear left in the ones they bought years ago, but it's not doing anyone any harm replacing them anyway.
You mean replacing the women? I think quite a few of us have already done that :-)
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It's a bit like women and shoes, they don't really need them, they only have two feet and there's plenty of wear left in the ones they bought years ago, but it's not doing anyone any harm replacing them anyway.
You mean replacing the women? I think quite a few of us have already done that :-)
Sooo true :lol
On the oil front I just took my thou in for service but it had had fully synth put in by the Triumph dealer I bought it from and Yamaha stealer told me Yamaha don't recommend fully synth on the 600 or 1000 and if they don't recommend it why use it , so I caved and told em to change the oil , they probably just mugged me off for a few extra £
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:'( i have tried both; fully is certainly smoother but didnt keep it in long either
feeling like a greenhorn now :rollin nice to bounce this stuff around tho
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:'( i have tried both; fully is certainly smoother but didnt keep it in long either
feeling like a greenhorn now :rollin nice to bounce this stuff around tho
The gear changing certainly does feel smoother without a doubt, that's why i think i've noticed it so much.
As far as i'm concerned, as long as it's 10w/40 then i can't see any issues.
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re-read the zzr thread and it actually said dont use CAR synthetic oil because of the wet clutch- bike synthetic oil should be ok
I used to top up my CX500 and Gt 550 with car type oil when they used it but always tried to get bike specific oil for changes - one of the GT's I had and the CX had a thirst for oil so it didnt do any harm - the Gt 750 and the other GT 550 I have had never used any oil, nor has my ZZR .
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It's a bit like women and shoes, they don't really need them, they only have two feet and there's plenty of wear left in the ones they bought years ago, but it's not doing anyone any harm replacing them anyway.
You mean replacing the women? I think quite a few of us have already done that :-)
lol I'm pretty lucky she only buys shoes when they fall apart and loves going on the pillion - has been known to say I started going out with him 'cos he had a motorbike (23 years and counting ago) - I think I got a 'keeper' ;)
Happy Christmas folks :)
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re-read the zzr thread and it actually said dont use CAR synthetic oil because of the wet clutch- bike synthetic oil should be ok
I used to top up my CX500 and Gt 550 with car type oil when they used it but always tried to get bike specific oil for changes - one of the GT's I had and the CX had a thirst for oil so it didnt do any harm - the Gt 750 and the other GT 550 I have had never used any oil, nor has my ZZR .
After 29 years of biking i can only positively say i've only ever had one issue with a particular oil, and that was after using Castrol Magnatec.
The ad campaign at the time was pretty impressive, but after a weeks usage i just knew something wasn't quite right, and gear changing became a bit of a chore.
It was only then that i had a butchers at the container, and it really did blatantly say, albeit in small writing, "not suitable for motorcycles".
I would've known by now if there was any problems with fully synthetic oil in my bike, bearing in mind i am totally sensitive to the slightest noise change, squeak, heat change or anything whatsoever to be truthful.
All i know is, as previously mentioned by someone else, is that my gear changing is "silky smooth".
If "silky smooth" gear changing is classed as an issue then i'm perfectly happy to put up with this terrible situation. I can only imagine it being like filling your house with £50million of Lottery winning bank notes then complaining that you keep tripping over them, or Hugh Hefner tripping over nipples. :lol
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Well with the help of my friend got to the bottom of where the leak was, the exhaust is now sorted too.
Its where that shiny clip is, there was no clip on it at all! :rollin
- so that was easy enough,
Checked coolant and re-topped up , coolant was clean and new looking
checked fuel filter and that is very clean and new looking
Exhaust has had old jubilee clipe removed, neatened up and proper clamp fitted.
Bike does actually generally looked well cared for, apart from the scratches and scrapes.
- The front tyre is border line, so gonna get a new one on the way.
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This is the stuff that I use, cant be beaten. Unlike Tesco eggs, they can be beaten.
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Not wishing to get that can of 'Chopped Worms' back out of the kitchen cupboard again. :'(
Please see the photo below that I took from the Haynes Service and Repair Manual for the YFZ600R and FZS600 Fazer 96-03.
Is Haynes wrong on this score?
or
Is the confusion about oils going to continue?
I have to admit to using fully synthetic Shell Advanced Motorcycle 4T oil in my FZS Fazer 600 ever since I have had it, and it was recommended to me by my local motorcycle garage.
But, if its the wrong stuff I will certainly take counsel from those that know. :D
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This post or thread started out being all about a drip and maybe its finishing on a discussion about a drip.
Please inform me. :lol
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Not wishing to get that can of 'Chopped Worms' back out of the kitchen cupboard again. :'(
Please see the photo below that I took from the Haynes Service and Repair Manual for the YFZ600R and FZS600 Fazer 96-03.
Is Haynes wrong on this score?
or
Is the confusion about oils going to continue?
I have to admit to using fully synthetic Shell Advanced Motorcycle 4T oil in my FZS Fazer 600 ever since I have had it, and it was recommended to me by my local motorcycle garage.
But, if its the wrong stuff I will certainly take counsel from those that know. :D
Well that pretty much closes that discussion then doesn't it, as far as our bikes are concerned?
And rather than pay more for fully synthetic oil, as per manual, i've found one for a very decent price that does what it says on the container.
So for anyone else who wishes to give it a go, and i promise you won't be disappointed, here it is again:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf)
Or if you're having trouble getting past a semi, even more of a bargain:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y)
How on earth could you ever not want to buy this stuff after this review from "Irene" anyway, she sounds like a marketing dream :lol
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Not wishing to get that can of 'Chopped Worms' back out of the kitchen cupboard again. :'(
Please see the photo below that I took from the Haynes Service and Repair Manual for the YFZ600R and FZS600 Fazer 96-03.
Is Haynes wrong on this score?
or
Is the confusion about oils going to continue?
I have to admit to using fully synthetic Shell Advanced Motorcycle 4T oil in my FZS Fazer 600 ever since I have had it, and it was recommended to me by my local motorcycle garage.
But, if its the wrong stuff I will certainly take counsel from those that know. :D
Well that pretty much closes that discussion then doesn't it, as far as our bikes are concerned?
And rather than pay more for fully synthetic oil, as per manual, i've found one for a very decent price that does what it says on the container.
So for anyone else who wishes to give it a go, and i promise you won't be disappointed, here it is again:
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-Fully-Synthetic-10W-40-10W40-Motorcycle-Oil-4-Stroke-JASO-MA2-10W-40-/111838862300?hash=item1a0a1d9bdc:g:anIAAOSwHQ9WXgZf[/url])
Or if you're having trouble getting past a semi, even more of a bargain:
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5L-10W40-Super-4T-Semi-Synthetic-Motorcycle-4-Stroke-Engine-Oil-5-LTR-/121799799494?hash=item1c5bd572c6:g:PMMAAOSwoydWj6~Y[/url])
How on earth could you ever not want to buy this stuff after this review from "Irene" anyway, she sounds like a marketing dream :lol
Tell me about it :eek :lol
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This post or thread started out being all about a drip and maybe its finishing on a discussion about a drip.
Please inform me. :lol
Started out about a drip... now on a drop! (Of oil) 💧💧😂😂😂
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The trouble with any enthusiasts is that there are as many opinions on things like oil, filters, tyres, batteries and the like as there are different makes. The trouble is we all think we know best and maybe we do for our selves with our preferences.
Me I use fully synthetic engine oil, but, I can see the problems using it in an older engine that has been run on mineral oil all its life, synthetic oil has great scrubbing qualities that keep the inside of the engine really clean along with the pump and oil ways, but using synthetic oil in an old engine could release all sorts of crud and sludge that could actually block a fine oil way causing all sorts of lubrication issues.
Me I'm a Bridgestone Battlax man myself, other say they are shit in the wet, me, I'm made of sugar I don't go out in the rain for fear of dissolving, they certainly give me confidence, but then I have not tried any other modern tyre.
I'm also a Southern Comfort man, it's much to sweet some say, well foccing good job to they will not be drinking mine then.
Anyway Guys, this is a great forum and I for one am really glad I discovered it, I have had many a laugh on here, have been given and received, gratefully much excellent advice and help. And I am sure this will continue into 2017 and on to 2018, I just hope I do. (tommyardin = Old Bastard)
Hope you all had a great Christmas with those you love (Many your Yamahas) also have a great New Year.
A quick joke for you , it's quite old and goes around now and again.
Princess Anne has an official Royal visit booked to visit Reykjavic Iceland.
Princess Anne's plane lands at Reykjavic airport and is met by the Icelandic Prime Minister, as they are talking the Prime Minister notices beads of sweat on Princess Anne's
face. Feeling a little awkward about looking and not wanting to appear rude he commented politely, I notice Mam that you have a fur hat on, in fact it's a hat made from Arctic Fox, we sometime locally call it Silver Fox here in Iceland, and it is a great insulator against the cold, but this is our summer and if you wish to remove the hat you might be more comfortable.
Princess Anne thanks him for his consideration but said that she had official counsel with the Queen before the trip and the Queen had said 'Where is it you are going again Anne?' I replied Reykjavic Mam and she said 'Where the fox hat'
Its the way you say it.
tommy.
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Great post Tommy and Happy Xmas & New Yr to you -
Totally agree tyres oil and consumable stuff is often personal taste, I dont mind reading through, when you come to a new bike, new manufacturer new forum etc, I'd only be looking at inane shite on facebook if not reading here.
Good thing if going to start using fully synth might be to run one of those oil cleaning flush agents through before dropping your last old oil before putting synthetic in ? Hopefully clear out the crap first - though someone may think they are only designed for cars too?
I've realised my front tyre if it doesnt need replacing for MOT will need replacing pretty soon after its between 1.5 and 2 mm at worst bits and I wouldnt want to go out in the wet. Tyre choice comes partly down to price and limited delivery options as I live in a remote area (Highlands & Islands) - many online sellers wont sell bulky items cos of higher courier charges - its been in the news lately. I couldnt find a replacement Metzler at a reasonable price/delivery online so am getting Michelin on the front and will follow suit on the back when needed. Its a Pilot but I dont think it must be most recent due to price, probably old ones being blown out.
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Great post Tommy and Happy Xmas & New Yr to you -
Totally agree tyres oil and consumable stuff is often personal taste, I dont mind reading through, when you come to a new bike, new manufacturer new forum etc, I'd only be looking at inane shite on facebook if not reading here.
Good thing if going to start using fully synth might be to run one of those oil cleaning flush agents through before dropping your last old oil before putting synthetic in ? Hopefully clear out the crap first - though someone may think they are only designed for cars too?
I've realised my front tyre if it doesnt need replacing for MOT will need replacing pretty soon after its between 1.5 and 2 mm at worst bits and I wouldnt want to go out in the wet. Tyre choice comes partly down to price and limited delivery options as I live in a remote area (Highlands & Islands) - many online sellers wont sell bulky items cos of higher courier charges - its been in the news lately. I couldnt find a replacement Metzler at a reasonable price/delivery online so am getting Michelin on the front and will follow suit on the back when needed. Its a Pilot but I dont think it must be most recent due to price, probably old ones being blown out.
Have you tried www.oponeo.co.uk (http://www.oponeo.co.uk) , good priced tyres delivered to you, just take your wheel with your new tyre after finding a garage that will fit them for you, and you will still save money most likely.
There are normally 2 prices, one for a quick delivery, and the other if you can wait 4 or 5 days which will be the cheaper option. Obviously double check to make sure they cover your area for delivery.
Will I have to pay additionally for delivery? Delivery is free to the UK mainland. However, shipment to Northern Ireland and other UK islands will incur an additional delivery charge of £4.00 per piece. Please note that we do not ship to Jersey, Guernsey or the Isle of Man. In addition, we do not provide a fitting service.
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Hi
How about clutch problems, if you use syntetic oil?
Is that not why the manual says semi-synt?
btw
Happy New Year
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Hi
How about clutch problems, if you use syntetic oil?
Is that not why the manual says semi-synt?
btw
Happy New Year
The discussion is finished, the manual says fully synthetic is fine.
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Hi
How about clutch problems, if you use syntetic oil?
Is that not why the manual says semi-synt?
btw
Happy New Year
Hi Bimbam (that will be Thank you mam :lol )
I really don't know the answer, Haynes say it is OK to use fully synthetic, no, not just OK but they recommend its use, others say use only semi synthetic, because of the nature of the Fully Synthetic oil messes with wet clutches, but if you use Semi synthetic oil does it only semi mess with your clutch, that does not make any sense at all. It is either OK to use synthetic or not there can not be any half way.IF Yamaha say no to synthetic oil either fully of semi, what the foc is the difference between a high revving 4 pot Yamaha engine and any other high revving 4 pot motorcycle engine.The Fully Synthetic oil I use (and I am not saying it is any better or worse than any other make) is Shell Advance Ultra 10W-40 and it says on the label (Bearing in mind this is Shell and they are not exactly small in the field of oils and fuel) 'Ultimate Performance for ALL bikes'. Now it seems to me that most makes of motorcycle have a wet clutch, I say most as there a few that don't , I believe that some Ducati have a dry clutch system.
Now if Shell are to make a BOLD statement like 'Ultimate Performance for ALL bikes' I think it must be true, cos, they would be in deepest doo doo if loads of motorcycles across the world all started braking down because of misinformation on and about one of their products.
Plus what is the basic mechanical difference between one high revving multi pot engine and another? Its Pistons, Crankshafts, Valves, Bearings Camshafts and Lined friction plates coupled with plain steel plates in nearly all clutches, most run in oil and operate in exactly the same maner, plate apart no drive, plates together drive.
Basically as said in other posts, use what your comfortable with, and, if it all goes tits up you only have yourself to blame.
Pic below with writing on label clearly showing.
And of course Yamaha would love you to use their products :rolleyes including their bloody expensive Fork Oil :'(
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Well with the help of my friend got to the bottom of where the leak was, the exhaust is now sorted too.
Its where that shiny clip is, there was no clip on it at all! :rollin
- so that was easy enough,
Checked coolant and re-topped up , coolant was clean and new looking
checked fuel filter and that is very clean and new looking
Exhaust has had old jubilee clipe removed, neatened up and proper clamp fitted.
Bike does actually generally looked well cared for, apart from the scratches and scrapes.
- The front tyre is border line, so gonna get a new one on the way.
Glad the coolant leak was an easy and cheap fix rw711.
I know for myself that when I see anything like a drip of fluid where it should not be I panic and tend to imagine the worst each time. You had a result, wonder what the plonker was thinking not putting the clip back on last time he removed it, Daft bugger. :rolleyes
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thanks for link again darrsi I got these of Ebay seem a good price and reviews well on some of sites I looked at, free delivery - they look very sticky so think will gripe well but not last long ! :lol
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262766516063 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262766516063)
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thanks for link again darrsi I got these of Ebay seem a good price and reviews well on some of sites I looked at, free delivery - they look very sticky so think will gripe well but not last long ! :lol
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262766516063[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262766516063[/url])
If you're a "dry" rider most tyres will do the job.
I only concentrate on wet tyres, 'cos i live in London.
Dry is a massive plus when riding!
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Yep we get plenty rain in this part of Scotland (on West coast) I can assure you :rollin - http://mototirereviews.com/michelin-pilot-power/ (http://mototirereviews.com/michelin-pilot-power/)
seems to review well for dry and wet - but not track use , couldnt get my choice of ZZR tyre choice in the size though the rears are same. Though I might of been tempted by the Pirelli in your link as these are higher spec than the ones on my Kwak and not much more. the front is a 120/60 on the ZZR, and I think the ZZR must share sizes with alot of things given price ? I got rear tyre for same price as this front :eek and a front Pirelli can be had for 40 notes ( being of Yorkshire descent and living in Scotland means obligatory miser lol :rollin )
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Yep we get plenty rain in this part of Scotland (on West coast) I can assure you :rollin - [url]http://mototirereviews.com/michelin-pilot-power/[/url] ([url]http://mototirereviews.com/michelin-pilot-power/[/url])
seems to review well for dry and wet - but not track use , couldnt get my choice of ZZR tyre choice in the size though the rears are same. Though I might of been tempted by the Pirelli in your link as these are higher spec than the ones on my Kwak and not much more. the front is a 120/60 on the ZZR, and I think the ZZR must share sizes with alot of things given price ? I got rear tyre for same price as this front :eek and a front Pirelli can be had for 40 notes ( being of Yorkshire descent and living in Scotland means obligatory miser lol :rollin )
Do not feel the urge to try and go bigger tyre wise, a few people will disagree with me, but generally stick to the given sizes for the bike. Years of testing came up with these for a reason, they are the best sizes for both bike and rider.
West coast of Scotland eh? Every shite weather report i read about for the "UK" tends to be your weather, but where you suffer the weather i have to deal with the whole world's worst ever drivers in London, so it kind of levels things out in a way. :\
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Yep we get plenty rain in this part of Scotland (on West coast) I can assure you :rollin - [url]http://mototirereviews.com/michelin-pilot-power/[/url] ([url]http://mototirereviews.com/michelin-pilot-power/[/url])
seems to review well for dry and wet - but not track use , couldnt get my choice of ZZR tyre choice in the size though the rears are same. Though I might of been tempted by the Pirelli in your link as these are higher spec than the ones on my Kwak and not much more. the front is a 120/60 on the ZZR, and I think the ZZR must share sizes with alot of things given price ? I got rear tyre for same price as this front :eek and a front Pirelli can be had for 40 notes ( being of Yorkshire descent and living in Scotland means obligatory miser lol :rollin )
Do not feel the urge to try and go bigger tyre wise, a few people will disagree with me, but generally stick to the given sizes for the bike. Years of testing came up with these for a reason, they are the best sizes for both bike and rider.
West coast of Scotland eh? Every shite weather report i read about for the "UK" tends to be your weather, but where you suffer the weather i have to deal with the whole world's worst ever drivers in London, so it kind of levels things out in a way. :\
Absolutely we have the worst weather and best biking roads, and least traffic - If ever you want a good biking road try the A816 Lochgilphead to Oban- you'll need to do it twice, once to size it up and enjoy the scenery and then again to blast it! :lol
Oban to Fort William is good to - in fact anywhere once your out of Glasgow on the A82/A83 - well you just cant go wrong ;)