old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: sc0ttie on 18 October 2016, 06:49:16 pm
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How does one know when the chain needs to be replaced, apart from if it breaks or if the adjusters are screwed very far back on the swinging arm? Mine is just a notch before the middle adjustment marker on the swing arm. I have had the bike for 18 months, i only seem to have to adjust the chain every 4 or 5 months as it doesn't seem to stretch much with my riding style although I have put about 4000 miles on it at least.
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Tight links are what you need to check for. Sometimes they're obvious to spot and sometimes you'll only notice them with a more thorough check. You might see one or a few links sticking up slightly or they might be out of alignment with the rest or sitting up off the rear sprocket as you spin the wheel. You might also hear a "noise" or feel a rhythmic vibration or knock through the foot pegs. As a check I like to start at the master link and then go around the chain flexing each link to make sure they're all free. If they're all moving freely you shouldn't have any problems just lube it regularly and give it the odd clean.
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As above.. When the chain tension is inconsistent thru a full revolution despite all links being free. Easy to miss if not checked properly
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Tight links tend to follow bad maintenance. A stretched chain will start to need adjusting very frequently. Also if you go to 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket and you can pull a link most of the way up a tooth, it's knackered.
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On a side note I saw this video recently and thought it was interesting. It shows that chains don't stretch in length, the links wear out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HV7_HG8rfaQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HV7_HG8rfaQ)
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Good to know thanks for the video too. I do a visual check on my chain each time I lube it which is about every 10 days. I will check the rear sprocket pulling on a link method too this week.
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Some chain manufacturers will specify a service life length over a number of links so you can measure it. You can even buy a gauge that does the same thing. Also a stretched chain will wear your sprockets into a shark tooth shape. If there is any uneven tooth wear I will change a chain and sprockets.
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As a footnote, always change the sprockets (both) and the chain at the same time. Otherwise either one will wreck the other.
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As a further footnote, A DRY chain will stretch enough in 500miles to jump a tooth on your front sprocket (and break your clutch pushrod)
That happened to me when I first bought my bike. My Scottoiler ran out on my way back from Hamburg. I think the previous owner had been using old engine oil in it, which is way too thin, so once empty the chain dried very quickly. My clutchrod went just as I got to the M25.
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As a footnote, always change the sprockets (both) and the chain at the same time. Otherwise either one will wreck the other.
What about what this fella is saying on the other thread about which sprocket kit.
I have always used the OEM kit. Great piece of kit, but you need to remove the swinging arm to fit them.
Original lasted 40000 and did the second one, put on the 3rd OEM one at 84000 miles.
Having a scottoiler helps the longevity as does changing the front sprocket every 12 to 15000 miles. It wear 3 time faster then the rear.
Fitted a DID to the Fazer 1000 the and JT sprockets as I did not have time to wait for the OEM kit. 15000 miles on it at present and I changed the front sprocket after 12000miles. It also has a scottoiler.
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Are oem chain/sprockets really that different from aftermarket items?.. Aside from the price that is :)
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Are oem chain/sprockets really that different from aftermarket items?.. Aside from the price that is :)
I still think it's down to how well you maintain them, if you're a good weather only rider, ride like a maniac, etc.
There's loads of factors that can improve or shorten their lifespan, but i don't see any reason why a reputable company that specialises in chains like D.I.D. for example should be in any way inferior to an OEM one.
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The original chain is shown in the manuals as being made by Daido and DID part of the same company http://www.did-daido.co.jp/en/ (http://www.did-daido.co.jp/en/) so probably the same chain with different name stamped on side plates with DID for after market parts and Daido for supply to bike manufacturers.
DID, Regina, RK probably all OK but for the sake of saving £20 over the life of a chain I normally stick to DID.
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The original chain is shown in the manuals as being made by Daido and DID part of the same company [url]http://www.did-daido.co.jp/en/[/url] ([url]http://www.did-daido.co.jp/en/[/url]) so probably the same chain with different name stamped on side plates with DID for after market parts and Daido for supply to bike manufacturers.
DID, Regina, RK probably all OK but for the sake of saving £20 over the life of a chain I normally stick to DID.
Yep, tried and tested, and more than happy with D.I.D. chains.