old - Fazer Owners Club - old
General => General => Topic started by: fazersharp on 12 May 2016, 04:25:41 pm
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So me nuts are good and off but putting them back on with copper slip what torque am I going to use now when dry its 10nm
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I usually use the same torque, despite what is often said about it without issue.
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I usually use the same torque, despite what is often said about it without issue.
Im scared - being as they are exhaust stud nuts an-all
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I give mine a liberal coating of copper slip then use a 10mm socket on the end of a socket driver (screw driver with a square end) and tighten as much as I can with that.
What ever torque that is? screwdriver torque instead of spanner torque. :rolleyes
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Still not sure --- any other offers
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10Nm is basically hand tight like Bretty did so you should be fine. Have you got a torque wrench? You could tighten another bolt into something else to get a feel for what 10Nm is if you're worried.
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Duralac would be a better addative to different metals in situ,copperslip adds to the reaction
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Whatever you end up doing, keep on checking the bolts for a couple of weeks as vibration, heating and cooling tends to make them come loose again until the headers are eventually bedded properly and settle down in place.
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10Nm is basically hand tight like Bretty did so you should be fine. Have you got a torque wrench? You could tighten another bolt into something else to get a feel for what 10Nm is if you're worried.
Yes I do have a torque wrench, that's not the issue the issue is with the copper grease distorting the point at which the correct Nm is reached - ie they will be over tightened with it.
Duralac would be a better addative to different metals in situ,copperslip adds to the reaction
That sounds interesting and I will look into it
Whatever you end up doing, keep on checking the bolts for a couple of weeks as vibration, heating and cooling tends to make them come loose again until the headers are eventually bedded properly and settle down in place.
I have not disturbed the headers but just took off the nuts and collars after weeks of soaking as I may soon want a new set of pipes and wanted to bite the stud bullet before I HAD to.
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I think you're over thinking this. As long as you tighten them evenly and don't go mad on the wrench you'll be fine. You're only going to hand tight. If they snap at that then they're already damaged beyond use.
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I think you're over thinking this.
Thats my problem----- with everything.
The studs are in pretty good condition ---dare I say very good even.
I started at 5 ish Nm then 7 ish and there is virtually no difference between the two so left it at that for now and will keep my eye on them, the problem with the torque wrench is that its hard to tell how much pressure you are putting on, compared to using a small 1/4 drive and 10Nm is so low on the wrench I doubt its that accurate at that end of the scale anyway, I wouldnt normally bother so much its just that the studs have copper slip on them which can lead to over torqueing.
You see --- I am over thinking again !
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Yea I'd use a small ratchet and hold it near the socket rather than down the handle. Trying to get 10NM on a torque wrench that does 10-100NM is a bit dodgy
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Yea I'd use a small ratchet and hold it near the socket rather than down the handle. Trying to get 10NM on a torque wrench that does 10-100NM is a bit dodgy
Its a halfords professional 0-60Nm so is quite a good good one but even then as you say bit dodgy at that Nm
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use graphite powder(dry lube) it much easier to torque.
any kind of lube that is wet etc will increase the torque despite it may read 10 nm it could be as much as double so becareful.
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You could try torquing it up dry, marking the position of the stud & nut. Undo the nut, Coppaslip the stud and tighten up to the mark. Or maybe not....
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We've discussed this before, if everything's in place then just use engine oil as lube and use a torque wrench without fear of over tightening.
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We've discussed this before, if everything's in place then just use engine oil as lube and use a torque wrench without fear of over tightening.
Thanks all for the input I have gone with half torque wrench and half hand with a smaller socket set and a close eye
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We've discussed this before, if everything's in place then just use engine oil as lube and use a torque wrench without fear of over tightening.
Thanks all for the input I have gone with half torque wrench and half hand with a smaller socket set and a close eye
One eye closed? :lol