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Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: darrsi on 24 February 2016, 09:32:36 am
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Are side stand switches non serviceable?
My bike wouldn't start outside work last night, until the battery just gave up, so a colleague gave me a jump start and we got it going again, then I rode to the end of my building to stop and put air in my tyres and when I put the side stand down with the engine running in neutral it cut out again.
So after a long hard stare at the bike, I put it on the centre stand, put the side stand up and pressed the ignition button and it came to life again.
When I got home I used a can of degreaser around that area, then brake cleaner then gave it a good spraying with WD40.
I could see the button going in and out quite freely when depressed and released so that looked okay.
This morning the bike started then stopped dead after 30 seconds, so bike back up on centre stand again and it fired up and ran fine again.
So it would appear it has an intermittent fault, or is just on it's way out.
Do they just need replacing? I couldn't really see through all the chain lube that was covering it what they were really about, other than that it's in an awkward place?
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If you unbolt it from the frame & flip it over there are four screws holding it together maybe worth a peek inside for any crap contacts also follow wiring from switch & check terminals in connector block.
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I just found one on FazerSpares for £10 delivered so it was a no brainer to order it, but i'll have a play about with the old one once I've got all the chain lube off it.
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Sounds to me like the side stand switch is working properly. The bike thinks it is in gear still so cutting out with the side stand down.
I would look at the clutch switch and the neutral switch.
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Sounds to me like the side stand switch is working properly. The bike thinks it is in gear still so cutting out with the side stand down.
I would look at the clutch switch and the neutral switch.
The bike cut out when I put the bike stand down yesterday whilst in neutral, then wouldn't start again.
But when I raised the stand it started and ran fine.
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I've had this before it's usually the switch on the way out the stick or short giving you you're problem, check the connector too water gets in there over time it's also possible there's a broken/shorting wire.
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Wouldn't start again outside work again tonight, but put side stand up and it started straight away.
Definitely to do with the switch or the attached wire.
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I had this problem, it turned out to be a crud on the contacts.
A clean out with contact cleaner and it's not happened since.
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I had this problem, it turned out to be a crud on the contacts.
A clean out with contact cleaner and it's not happened since.
On the contacts where, the plug end or did you open up the unit?
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The plug end.
Probably shouldn't have but I pulled the rubber boot back on the switch and sprayed some in there as well.
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I haven't had a real chance to look into it yet, but where does the plug end go, is it under the tank?
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Plug is under left hand side panel.
Corrosion usually effects the plug, but also the contacts in the unit.
Easy to fix with some fiddly bits in it.
See pic of one open
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As i said, i've ordered another anyway so i'll replace it then mess about with the old one.
If the new one doesn't turn up by Saturday then i'll have a go at looking at the old one a bit quicker over the weekend when i've got a bit of daylight.
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I just found one on FazerSpares for £10 delivered so it was a no brainer to order it, but i'll have a play about with the old one once I've got all the chain lube off it.
Fazerspares have good bits, but do not assume it works when you get it, test it before you install it.
The copper contacts often oxidise when they are not used for some time.
A battery, bulb and a few pieces of wire is all you need to test it.
I have had to a repair a few secondhand ones due to corrosion, the one in the picture being one.
I bought it as a spare since they are common across many Yamahas.
If I come across a faulty one now, I just swap it out and repair the original and keep that as the next spare.
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I just found one on FazerSpares for £10 delivered so it was a no brainer to order it, but i'll have a play about with the old one once I've got all the chain lube off it.
Fazerspares have good bits, but do not assume it works when you get it, test it before you install it.
The copper contacts often oxidise when they are not used for some time.
A battery, bulb and a few pieces of wire is all you need to test it.
I have had to a repair a few secondhand ones due to corrosion, the one in the picture being one.
I bought it as a spare since they are common across many Yamahas.
If I come across a faulty one now, I just swap it out and repair the original and keep that as the next spare.
Cheers for the heads up, although in all due respect i've never had any issues at all with FazerSpares parts.
It'll be delivered to work first so i can have it dissected by my electronics department for reassurance. :)
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I just found one on FazerSpares for £10 delivered so it was a no brainer to order it, but i'll have a play about with the old one once I've got all the chain lube off it.
Fazerspares have good bits, but do not assume it works when you get it, test it before you install it.
The copper contacts often oxidise when they are not used for some time.
A battery, bulb and a few pieces of wire is all you need to test it.
I have had to a repair a few secondhand ones due to corrosion, the one in the picture being one.
I bought it as a spare since they are common across many Yamahas.
If I come across a faulty one now, I just swap it out and repair the original and keep that as the next spare.
Cheers for the heads up, although in all due respect i've never had any issues at all with FazerSpares parts.
It'll be delivered to work first so i can have it dissected by my electronics department for reassurance. :)
They emailed me earlier apologising saying they've only just noticed my order. :\
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I thought that only one bolt/screw holding it on was accessible as the other is too close to the engine.
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I just looked at a picture I have from when I cleaned inside my sprocket cover - and now I see two screws, is that what I was thinking that you have to remove the cover to get at the other screw
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All i can see is chain lube.
Haven't seen a bolt yet.
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Here it is without the lube you can see the two screws at the bottom and I dont think you get to the one closest to the engine as the sprocket cover is in the way
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The visible screws in the picture are not for removing the switch, they are part of a set of 4 for keeping the sealing plate and wire guide in place.
2 pan head screws hold the switch to the frame and can only be accessed from underneath and are loctited in place.
Ensure you have a good fitting philips screwdriver but there is a good chance they will be wrecked on the way out.
Use an impact screwdriver to remove as it will fit cleanly and replace then with normal bolts or allen bolts and loctite them back in place.
If switch falls off when riding the engine will stop dead.
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I knew there was a reason why I didn't remove it when I was cleaning the area - Yamaha cheese screws
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The visible screws in the picture are not for removing the switch, they are part of a set of 4 for keeping the sealing plate and wire guide in place.
2 pan head screws hold the switch to the frame and can only be accessed from underneath and are loctited in place.
Ensure you have a good fitting philips screwdriver but there is a good chance they will be wrecked on the way out.
Use an impact screwdriver to remove as it will fit cleanly and replace then with normal bolts or allen bolts and loctite them back in place.
If switch falls off when riding the engine will stop dead.
Don't s'pose you would have any idea of what size and length of bolts needed perchance, as i'll try and get some replacements from work later on today?
I've got another week off work from Monday so i'll need to have the bolts to hand at home.
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Just saw this now Darrsi, I think they are around the 16mm mark, but not 100%sure
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Just saw this now Darrsi, I think they are around the 16mm mark, but not 100%sure
It's okay, this is the first chance i've had to check too, i've had a manic day!
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I've not got round to doing this yet as I've had a dodgy back, but was hoping to try and change it tomorrow for the replacement one I bought.
Only thing is, the more I look at it, it just seems to be in a complete bastard of a place to actually get near it, to whack the screws with an impact driver for instance. :smash
Am I missing a simple trick or something, or is it really just in a nasty position with the exhaust in the way as well?
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Best of luck :'(
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If it cuts out and leaves you stranded anywhere disconnect the switch from the loom and bridge the connector with a bit of wire and you'll be on your way ;)
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Best of luck :'(
When i hear things like that from you, i know i'm in trouble. :look
After i got home from work yesterday i got a new can of brake cleaner out and thought i'd degrease it while it was raining in the hope the rain would dilute the mess i was gonna make.
I probably should put it on the centre stand, although i dunno how much that would've helped either, but i could barely even get close to it to spray the chain lube off.
Whoever has the job of fitting them either has first go on an upside down empty frame, or is standing in a pit. :groan
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If it cuts out and leaves you stranded anywhere disconnect the switch from the loom and bridge the connector with a bit of wire and you'll be on your way ;)
Yeah, i found a YouTube video on how to basically hotwire it, by either bridging the connector like you say, or even cutting the wire and joining it, which is the same thing. I also read on an old post from years back to just remove the switch and tie it somewhere safe away from the stand, but if i could do that then i'd just put the other one back on.
I'll stare at it for a bit longer, and if i come up with something imaginative i'll let you know, otherwise it'll have to go down to the mechanic. :\
Judging by the hole size in the new switch, they are M5 screws, and i've managed to find some stainless cap head screws at work in slightly different lengths to have on hand if i do ever manage to remove it.
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The secret is to do what they do in the factory. Take the engine out then you've got good access to change the switch and once that's done put the engine back in the frame!
When mine failed I ended up cutting/smashing the old switch to remove it and using allan bolts when putting the new one in since you can't get a screwdriver on the screw heads
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The secret is to do what they do in the factory. Take the engine out then you've got good access to change the switch and once that's done put the engine back in the frame!
When mine failed I ended up cutting/smashing the old switch to remove it and using allan bolts when putting the new one in since you can't get a screwdriver on the screw heads
Yeah, i'm starting to realize that "secret". :'(
I've cleaned up the whole area of chain lube so at least i can see it now, and now it just looks like a very unappealing job.
I'll stare at it a bit longer then decide what to do next. :(
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Just to let you know, i cleaned up the area of the side stand switch with plenty of brake cleaner, and the scenario now is that i have to start the bike with the side stand up, but once started it does let me put the stand down and remains running okay so i can let the engine warm up without being on the bike.
It still won't start with the stand down though, the bastard.
Although not ideal, it's a situation that i can more than deal with for now.
I still have a new switch at the ready, or a pair of cutters so i can hotwire it if necessary though
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I know it's not ideal, but to get me out of shit for now I have followed the side stand switch up to behind the left side panel and used a Scotch Lock cable joiner to basically "hotwire" the cables together and bypass the side stand switch for now.
I went to unplug the side stand switch plug and found that to be in a stupidly difficult place as well, so this fix will do for now.
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Don't ride off with your sidestand down :lol
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I'm paranoid about that now, did it many years ago on a KMX, it ain't fun.
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Scotch locks don't insulate well. If you can, just solder it properly.
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Scotch locks don't insulate well. If you can, just solder it properly.
It was a way of trying/testing it out without chopping the wires up for fun.
Now i know it works i can consider my next move.
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I'd use a short bit of wire and crimp two spade terminals on either end and connect it into the block connector. Probably not the correct thing to do but it'll work reliably and when you want to replace the switch properly the connector and loom are all still original
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I'd use a short bit of wire and crimp two spade terminals on either end and connect it into the block connector. Probably not the correct thing to do but it'll work reliably and when you want to replace the switch properly the connector and loom are all still original
That was the actual plan, but i couldn't figure out how to get anywhere near the plug, so went in to Plan B.