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Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: anutz on 22 January 2016, 04:41:22 am
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So, took the FZS600 and GSXR750 out on Tuesday for a ride around, first time for a while, all went well with the FZS600, on the GSXR, i got a rear tyre puncture on some fast country roads, on the brow of a hill.....so ended up pushing the bike 100m to nearest farmhouse to get into their drive and out of danger....just frozen and waiting for recovery truck...
reason i post is the title....
its my first ever puncture whilst riding, i noticed that the road felt bumpy, and then the bars began to slowly move from side to side, thats when i back off on the gas and slowly came to a stop, but i must have gone a fair distance with a deflating tyre, thankfully the people driving behind me were sensible and slowed with me, and stopped to see if i had a phone etc, which i did so off they went...also some other people who saw me stood stopped and checked all was well, so thanks to them
but, how should you handle a rear tyre puncture when it happens while riding, any do's or don'ts i.e. not to use rear brake for example at all?
anutz
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I had one at speed on the A2 many years ago, it's not something to take lightly as i never heard any pop or anything due to traffic noise and concentration but i certainly won't forget the manic rear wobble that followed, a kind of very quick fishtailing feeling.
I think the trick is to slow down firmly but gently using the front brake only, and roll off the throttle to let the engine braking help out as well.
If you touch the rear brake the rear end will dive downwards, so the outcome then would depend on how deflated the tyre was, but if properly flat could result in the tyre being forced over the rim which could then all get a bit messy.
This all applies to being in a straight line and upright of course, if you're on a bend then prepare for take off.
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I had one at speed on the A2 many years ago, it's not something to take lightly as i never heard any pop or anything due to traffic noise and concentration but i certainly won't forget the manic rear wobble that followed, a kind of very quick fishtailing feeling.
I think the trick is to slow down firmly but gently using the front brake only, and roll off the throttle to let the engine braking help out as well.
If you touch the rear brake the rear end will dive downwards, so the outcome then would depend on how deflated the tyre was, but if properly flat could result in the tyre being forced over the rim which could then all get a bit messy.
This all applies to being in a straight line and upright of course, if you're on a bend then prepare for take off.
:agree Last rear puncture (some years back now) was very similar to both of you and only noticed for similar reasons of concentration, noise etc. Only difference I did to Darrsi was that I pulled the clutch in......can't explain why I did, but it all ended up nicely at side of M3. Never had a total blow out so can't offer any advice there fella - someone will be along soon with a complete and utter horror story of binning it.
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If the rear is flat, pulling the clutch in is a good thing. You don't want to use any sort of braking on that wheel as traction is compromised and may give undesirable results.
Front brake only, slow down slowly and get to the side of the road as your rolling still.
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I remember waiting by the roadside for the recovery vehicle and this other bike went into a 20 metre rear wheel skid and I was thinking I'm about to witness something horrible.
But he stopped further past me, then ran back to me and asked if I needed any help?
What a thoroughly considerate chap. :thumbup
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i would have been eager to stop and help so would probably have done the same lol....
i was terrified when it happened, not so much the actual wobbling but being stuck on a blind bend on the wrong side - so glad could push the bike to a drive way of a farm house, i was going to have to put it into the grass verge and just leave it while i went to safety, as it was getting dark and i would have caused an accident, but the stand key sinking in so i could not, so one thing i now have under BOTH bike seats is a piece of plastic so i can stop the side stand digging in and the bike falling over when its on grass.....unless i can get to a drive way!
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http://craftyplugger.com/epages/e2d40bde-4731-461b-b4a5-1f416fe5929b.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/e2d40bde-4731-461b-b4a5-1f416fe5929b/Categories (http://craftyplugger.com/epages/e2d40bde-4731-461b-b4a5-1f416fe5929b.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/e2d40bde-4731-461b-b4a5-1f416fe5929b/Categories) :thumbup
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Sounds like you did the right things but if you can push it at 1mph why cant you ride it a 5 mph - lights on hazards on if you have them and out of danger sooner and in more control than pushing
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Extra weight on the bike will completely fec the tyre by riding it especially with the torque of the engine trying to pull the rubber off the rim.
Pushing it is far safer.
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:(
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/811C61DC-D12F-4C6B-B1FD-2E2771E914A5_zpsoo6ikdiu.jpg)
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy120/antz15/A8DACBAB-00BA-4C7B-B107-CA0C7647D247_zpsoflibuxp.jpg)
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Would it matter if you fecked the trye as its fecked anyway with a hole in it and surly pushing it would also damage it.
If you push slow 1mph then its spending a long time on each part as it gos around putting a lot of stress on it but if you are riding at 5 or 10 taking it is taking the weight off the tire.
Pus a wheel barrow slowly with a flat and its hard work but push it faster and it is less so, the tyre doesn't have time to squash down ----Discus
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Biggest thing not to do is ride it!
If it's only a nail/screw then it's not fucked and easily repaired!
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i will get a pic of mine when i pick the new fitted tyre up, its got a nice 2 cm gash in it, no idea what from!
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I've lost count of the number of punctures I've had. I carry cheap plugs and a small bicycle pump. Does the job.
(http://s3.amazonaws.com/cooltools_legacy/tire-plugs.jpg)
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need to look at getting puncture kit, arent some tyres not supposed to be repaired?
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need to look at getting puncture kit, arent some tyres not supposed to be repaired?
Its more of a case of where the puncture is and the kits i would suggest are used to get you to a garage for a proper repair or new one
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I've always used that style of repair and they've always lasted the life of the tyre. I've even had two of those plugs in the one hole after I picked up the world's largest screw :lol but a patch from the inside is probably a better repair. I think the general rule is as long as the hole is fairly central you can repair it. If it's over at the edge of the tyre or in the side wall you can't repair it
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I have a plug kit but think if I had to use it then it wouldn't be in a nice controlled manner or environment and would worry that I didnt do quite as a good job than if I was nice and warm in the light and inside where I would trust my repair a bit more.
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I was down at Loomies cafe (Hampshire) one day the summer before last and a guy with a Honda (yeah I know but someones got to own one) had a Phillips headed screw in his back tyre. The screw head was in flush with the tread, he was about 30 odd miles home. A Guy named Chris had a BMW sports tourer had a plug repair kit with him and he repaired the Honda back tyre,it took him about 4 minutes to do. Chris had compressed air cartridges and an adapter to blown the tyre up, so the guy could get to the nearest filling station to fully inflate the tyre to the right pressure. I went out and bought one of the kits myself as I was so impressed with it.
I also fitted a waterproof cigarette type lighter (Great for the Sat Nav , Compressor, and charging my phone) in my Fazer fairing and bought a small air compressor. these all fit under my fazer saddle along with the standard tool kit and my disk lock and a pair of light weight water proof trousers.
Jobs a Gudun
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The Stop & Go kit was quite expensive about £28-00 there are cheaper versions but they do not include the compressed air cartridges, a must if you on the road.
There are other makes that I have seen for considerably less on eBay but the tools included in the Stop & Go kit are of very high quality and will last for years, there is a mini Stanley knife included to cut off excess plug once its pulled tight into place, also a small piece of yellow foam to hold the cartridge while you inflate the tyre as the compressed air cartridge ices up.
A well worth wile investment, much better than a 30 mile push home.
If you get a puncture in any wheel whilst riding just shut the throttle slowly and cruise to a stand still if you chop the throttle or brake hard you will load the tyres and most likely throw the bike down the road. Don't Panic.
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+1 for the stop and go but I also have an Air Man 12v compressor on board after a front wheel puncture in France 160 miles from Calais...
We were in the Vosges Mountains when a rear puncture was repaired by a stop and go and it was faultless
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I have had my kit - not stop and go, for about 8 maybe more years. Anyone know if those canisters last forever or eventually leak out -would be a bummer I i smugly tried to do it and had no gas
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Hiya JZS, yes I was really impressed with the Stop & Go great quality tools included plus on eBay all the plugs and air cartridges are available to purchase reasonably.
Great result the little air comps take awhile to inflate a tyre but if you have no air at all in the tyre 10 to 12 minutes is cool time to wait. the good thing about the cartridges is that it shove air into the tyre quickly and a couple of then will pop the beads back onto the wheel.
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good point Fazersharp, dunno might be wise to sling them and replace after 2 or 3 years
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They last decades at least. I used to have a rc place with a motor powered with them, I found it in the attick a few years ago, must have been at least 25 years old and it run the engine up fine
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Good point Fazersharp, might pay to replace them every couple of years they are not expensive
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Thanks for the info NorthWestern
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Oh! this is worth knowing, the cartridges are filled to 900 PSI, ensure the cartridge is completely empty before removing it from the tyre or unscrewing the adaptor, (some inflaters have a tap/valve on them, ensure you open the valve before unscrewing the cartridge) One other thing if traveling abroad these must not be taken aboard an aircraft because of decompression in the planes hold would cause the cartridge to explode.
Don't look good on the news 'Fazer Rider brings down 747' Doh!
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all, thanks for the useful tips, shall have a think what to do...
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Another question on the cartridges, how many does it take to get enough air(or whatever is in the carts) in the tyre
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I've used ultraseal along with co2 cartridges and got it back home no problems after a puncture, well worth it but tyre fitters don't like it because of the mess left in the tyre when they change it but who cares if it does the job.
the ultraseal doesn't make the tyre go down quickly so you have more control over the bike if it does happen.
It's meant to keep the pressure up on the tyre and use centrifugal force to push the stuff to the puncture but on the occasions of my punctures it's stopped the tyre going down quickly, then I've just pulled the nail or cause of the puncture, blew up the tyre using 2 co2 cartridges and that's been it, obviously checking pressure regularly after but found the repairs to last till I replaced the tyres.
Another question on the cartridges, how many does it take to get enough air(or whatever is in the carts) in the tyre
I've always used upto two on a motorbike tyre and one on a push bike.
And in answer to your previous question....they should last forever as if they leaked after years they wouldn't be much good as a sealed cartridge :eek
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dont mention punctures :'( ive had 3 in the last month,2 in the last week :rolleyes a total of 5 plugs to fill the 3 :eek gotta get them patched from the inside soon,need a new rear disc and pads anyway ,oh and a front tyre :)
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I got a rear puncture on the isle of Lewis last summer on a Sunday when nothing is open.
I had one of the Bung kits with co2 canisters fixed in about 20 mins and put the 3 canisters in but this only gave me 20 psi then had to ride about 20 miles to find a garage with a compressor that wasn't turned off
I now carry 6 canisters!