Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: melons on 15 December 2015, 05:01:18 pm
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Hi
Thought I'd ask incase there is an obvious reason for this before I start digging.
It's an 2008 FZ1S and when used daily starts on the button everytime, however I'm on holiday at the moment and have on two occasions left the bike parked for 5 days. After both occasions, when I've attempted to start the bike there's enough juice for the lights but not enough to turn the starter motor.
Each time I've connected the battery up to an Optimate which has gone through it's various processes within a couple of hours and given the 'green' light of health and this time, straight after charging I checked the battery with a multimeter. Initial reading with ignition switched off was 13.5v but reading was dropping .01v every 15seconds or so, on starting the engine the reading climbed to 14.8v, so I'm happy with the battery & rect but something somewhere is drawing quite a bit of power
The bike is standard with no electrical accessories, the only draw I know off being the Yamaha immobiliser. Before I start hunting for the cause I was wondering if there may be an obvious reason, or FZ1S quirk that I don't know abot
Thanks in advance
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Longest I have left mine is 3 weeks, started up first time no bother, still on original battery and mine is a 2007 reg.
Mind you I am expecting it to start failing soon as it is an 8 year old battery and I think thats what your problem is, the battery just isn't holding its charge whilst it is stood.
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You don't check the voltage immediately after disconnecting an optimate or any charger.
You leave it for at the very least 30 minutes or you'll get a false reading.
Your battery is fucked. Replace it.
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I am also having the same issue... With a new battery!! I have to disconnect the battery whilst it's parked up for longer than a week... :\
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The only way to check for a drain is put a meter in current measuring mode, disconnect the positive lead and connect the meter to the red lead and battery positive. You will be putting the meter in series with the battery not parallel like when measuring voltage.
This will tell you how much is current is being drawn when the ignition is switched of and alarm switched on.
The only items drawing current should be the Clock and the alarm. The current should be below 10milliamps and probably more like 5milliamps or less.
If more, disconnect the fuses one by one to see which circuit is drawing the current.
Start with the alarm fuse.
Do not switch on the ignition when the meter is connected like this. Current draw could be to high and at best the meter fuse will blow and at worst cheaper meters will be consigned to the scrap heap.
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Your battery is fucked. Replace it.
Proper technical advice right there :rollin
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Cheers for the advice & schooling Guys. Opted for a replacement battery, a Motobatt for just under £50. Haven't run it by the multimeter after installing yet but all initial signs are good, engine now starts even as I approach the bike
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Your battery is fucked. Replace it.
Proper technical advice right there :rollin
Pure City and Guilds speak it is. :lol
Parents must be trilled with their offspring, the sheer technical ability and logical thinking to come up with the correct solution and explain it in such simple laymans terms. :lol
Would make a great lecturer in any university :thumbup