Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: hmmmnz on 27 October 2015, 06:11:25 pm
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hi guys, i know there is a million topics on headlights on this forum, and ive sifted through a fair chunk of them,
but there doesnt seem to be a definitive answer to the fazers lighting woes.
and with winter commuting coming on, id like to get something sorted soonish.
hids....
projectors or normal h4 bulbs.
if bulbs do i just go for a single high beam and a single dipped, or go for a dual bi-xenon.
same goes for a projector lens set up
what are the best ballasts to go for?
can the system handle dual 55w running at the same time off the existing wiring?
halogens.
i guess this would just be a bulb upgrade, can i also run dual hi/lo on these
leds....
replacement bulbs with drivers
extra spots on the bike??
arghhhh
so many options
im tempted to try out the leds with drivers like this
(http://www.channypicture.com/pic/UploadFile/P0/SKU234479/D513039B23C846C85365D22656CB9ED2C92634999BD2139A13C9D27FCA56462693566626309ACC8393A0CD.jpg)
but not to sure.
whats you guys opinion on the whole lighting situation?
cheers
.
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My brother's just fitted a H4 LED in his Husky and I must say I was quite impressed with it. Very bright and doesn't draw as much current.
I would avoid HID's, cheap one's from China anyway.
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led h4s are shite.
led spotlights are mucho good.
hid bulbs are not bad
hid projectors are probably the way to go.
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One of the reasons I bought Foxeye :)
Anyhow if I would you will just do the simple lights mod: http://foc-u.co.uk/?topic=181.0 (http://foc-u.co.uk/?topic=181.0)
And optionally can upgrade to good bulbs like halogen Philips X-treme Vision +130%.
LED are lemon. They give you many lumens, but the way the light is produced is wrong and your reflectors cannot reflect it properly.
HID - way too much bother and honestly the improvement above the mode with X-treme halogens is not too much. The price is ridicoulous.
my 2p :lol
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One of the reasons I bought Foxeye :)
Anyhow if I would you will just do the simple lights mod: [url]http://foc-u.co.uk/?topic=181.0[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/?topic=181.0[/url])
And optionally can upgrade to good bulbs like halogen Philips X-treme Vision +130%.
LED are lemon. They give you many lumens, but the way the light is produced is wrong and your reflectors cannot reflect it properly.
HID - way too much bother and honestly the improvement above the mode with X-treme halogens is not too much. The price is ridicoulous.
my 2p :lol
:agree And would also remove the metal piece of shite in the dipped beam. Do these simple, cheap mods and you'll have fucktons of extra light. Should take 2hrs tops and £25 tops. If you want more after that then at least you've bought some thinking time.
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right cheers guys, ill give that a go now. and decide on bulbs later if its still not enough :D
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right cheers guys, ill give that a go now. and decide on bulbs later if its still not enough :D
Buy the bulbs you tight arse :lol 1 x H4 & 1 x H1
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I've tried the Philips and the nightbreaker route and found them to be not much better than the standard bulb even with the dual mod.
I decided to put in HID, even with just the nearside at the moment it's far brighter and sharper. I will getting a H4 HID for the offside.
The first pic shows HID on nearside with a Orsam nightbreaker on the offside, second pic is the main beam switched on, so basically just the nightbreaker going full beam but as it's got the dual light mod it keeps the nearside HID on as well.
I've never had a problem with the HID'S and never been pulled for them even going towards police or being behind them.
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i wired up the other light to use both elements in the h4 bulb, and removed the cover on the h1.
to be honest, it made bugger all difference, i was riding home last night doing 35mph on the country roads (60 limit) and really couldnt have gone any faster, as i couldnt see shit!!
ive ordered a set of hid bi xenon projectors (2" type, which should fit in the housing perfectly)
the main problem i think is the reflectors are in poor condition,
my little bridgestone 200 with 6volt electrics has a better headlight than the fazer.
ill keep ya posted on the hids.. hopefully ill have them by the end of next week.
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i wired up the other light to use both elements in the h4 bulb, and removed the cover on the h1.
to be honest, it made bugger all difference, i was riding home last night doing 35mph on the country roads (60 limit) and really couldnt have gone any faster, as i couldnt see shit!!
Your right, it won't make any difference if your still using the standard bulbs :b
Makes a slight difference using Orsam nightbreakers or the Phillips equivalent but you'll get more light from HID bulbs if you get the right ones :)
Try and get a pic as they are now, and then when you change them and you'll see the difference, plus it's good for the forum people :)
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i wired up the other light to use both elements in the h4 bulb, and removed the cover on the h1.
to be honest, it made bugger all difference, i was riding home last night doing 35mph on the country roads (60 limit) and really couldnt have gone any faster, as i couldnt see shit!!
Your right, it won't make any difference if your still using the standard bulbs :b
Makes a slight difference using Orsam nightbreakers or the Phillips equivalent but you'll get more light from HID bulbs if you get the right ones :)
Try and get a pic as they are now, and then when you change them and you'll see the difference, plus it's good for the forum people :)
I for one would like to see some comparison pics if poss. I am deliberating over which route to take with lights. which Hids to get and where from. On here people seem to rate HID4U. About £90 though i think. Anyone recently tried HiDs and found them reliable?
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I for one would like to see some comparison pics if poss. I am deliberating over which route to take with lights. which Hids to get and where from. On here people seem to rate HID4U. About £90 though i think. Anyone recently tried HiDs and found them reliable?
I can only help with some pics I posted on this thread earlier.
Yes I know there's no before pics but tbh I think my camera flash would of been brighter :b
As far as what units to use....I've posted these somewhere on here before (another thread I'm sure) but thing to bare in mind is I bought mine many years ago for another bike and have installed them in various bikes since over the years with only having to change the bulb(s) to fit so I'm really maybe not the person to help with that bit.
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ill get some before pics on my way home tomorrow, on a dark stretch of road,
honestly i doubt i can see much further than 30 meters.
i changed out the h4 for a phillips xtreme vision bulb that i had spare for the car,
they are excellent in the car, but didnt make a blind bit of difference on the fazer
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ill get some before pics on my way home tomorrow, on a dark stretch of road,
honestly i doubt i can see much further than 30 meters.
i changed out the h4 for a phillips xtreme vision bulb that i had spare for the car,
they are excellent in the car, but didnt make a blind bit of difference on the fazer
That could be the reflectors, they're probably been worn from original bad to worse :eek
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i was trying to find out does the fazer 400 light fit the 600. myown headlight the reflector is not looking great. is it any better i rember reading it here some place and cant find it now.
Many Thanks.
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Hi. I have done this :
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,15814.msg204624.html#msg204624 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,15814.msg204624.html#msg204624)
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Having just bought a CBF1000 which hasn't had a bulb or wiring upgrade, it's made me realise just how bad the Fazer's are. The CBF is nudging car quality as standard :rolleyes
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Having just bought a CBF1000 which hasn't had a bulb or wiring upgrade, it's made me realise just how bad the Fazer's are. The CBF is nudging car quality as standard :rolleyes
Yeah my mates honda crossrunner is the same but we still put in an HID to make it better :)
Glad you got your bike btw, saw it on other thread, looks smart :)
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Having just bought a CBF1000 which hasn't had a bulb or wiring upgrade, it's made me realise just how bad the Fazer's are. The CBF is nudging car quality as standard :rolleyes
Yeah my mates honda crossrunner is the same but we still put in an HID to make it better :)
Glad you got your bike btw, saw it on other thread, looks smart :)
Cheers Sinto :thumbup It will still be getting upgraded bulbs all round and LED hand guards though - can't have too much light.
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Having just bought a CBF1000 which hasn't had a bulb or wiring upgrade, it's made me realise just how bad the Fazer's are. The CBF is nudging car quality as standard :rolleyes
Yeah my mates honda crossrunner is the same but we still put in an HID to make it better :)
Glad you got your bike btw, saw it on other thread, looks smart :)
Cheers Sinto :thumbup It will still be getting upgraded bulbs all round and LED hand guards though - can't have too much light.
Nope you sure cant, I've added lights to the front and an extra brake light at the rear, and that's bright as foc :)
I added led to my mates handguards, they look awesome, gives that 'width' perception which is good, also added two led spots to his crash bars and one night we experimented with switching off his main lights and he was still able to see the road :)
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Hi,
Frosties pointed out that you should "remove the metal piece of shite in the dipped beam''.
And you get Fucktons of extra light.
Were is this piece of metal. I have a Foxeye Fazer do my headlights have the metal piece.
I have fitted Philips bulbs, I cannot remember which version. And would like to maximise them.
I have been looking at fitting additional relays and use heavy gauge cable to remove the volts drop from battery to bulb.
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What the foc are you saying mouse?
Go on, let us know so we can help you :lol
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Has anyone tried fitting additional relays and use heavy gauge cable to remove the volts drop from battery to bulb.
Does it work.....
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i had a spare 35w hid laying around...
i dont have a spare one anymore
(http://i.imgur.com/Iosap1K.jpg)
12v 7ah battery inside, flickers like mad for about 10 seconds then heats up enough and starts :D
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i had a spare 35w hid laying around...
i dont have a spare one anymore
([url]http://i.imgur.com/Iosap1K.jpg[/url])
12v 7ah battery inside, flickers like mad for about 10 seconds then heats up enough and starts :D
I thought you were taking the mick till I zoomed in on the pic and saw you actually put a hole in the lamp :)
So we now need pics of the actual light from it :lol
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Ill get on it :D
its only 35w and a pretty crappy reflector but its got a decent beam on it :D i did however order a new 55w ballast so i can put it on my bike and switch it out with mine.
its also shown me that my bike battery has to be enough to run a hid, the battery thats in it is a 12v 7ah
one of these
(http://www.jenrathbun.com/Electronics/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Belkin14.jpg)
Not dark enough yet but
the inside:
(http://i.imgur.com/aFjetoS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/1cuC1FY.jpg)
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ok here is the before shots of the very shite-ish lights on my fazer
dipped beam
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g257/hmmmnz/DSC_0130%20Large_zpsa00k3tbb.jpg)
and the not so mighty full beam
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g257/hmmmnz/DSC_0131%20Large_zpsfwpikscs.jpg)
taking off the metal reflector hasnt really helped things, but it hasnt made it a whole lot worse either.
:D ill let you guys know how the projector lamps go when the turn up.
i also bought a pair of led projectors to fit somewhere, 10watt each, so will be interesting how good they are for the minimal cost as well
cheers hmmmnz
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ok here is the before shots of the very shite-ish lights on my fazer
There nearly as good as Paul's HID'S :pokefun
Seriously though.....
Have you adjusted the beam direction? Yours seem to be a bit low.
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ok here is the before shots of the very shite-ish lights on my fazer
There nearly as good as Paul's HID'S :pokefun
This is so true! i cant seriously keep getting bad batches of bulbs and ballasts!
new bulbs and ballast last week just as bad
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ok here is the before shots of the very shite-ish lights on my fazer
There nearly as good as Paul's HID'S :pokefun
This is so true! i cant seriously keep getting bad batches of bulbs and ballasts!
new bulbs and ballast last week just as bad
I don't what your doing :pokefun
Could possibly be your regulator/rectifier isn't up to it?
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Even straight from the battery its weak, i will have to remove the battery and wire the 22ah one and see what happens
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I had the same problem with my 96 TDM850.
HIDS4U supplied a complete kit for the dip beam which was a 20 minute job to fit and made a huge difference.
I did not fit a HID kit to the main beam as there is a slight delay in getting full power from the lamps, instead went for a night breaker bulb which made a bit of difference but lasted 20 miles!
Hope this helps
Doggy
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well the lights turned up over the weekend.
bit of a mission to get all installed and hide all the wiring, 2 sets of ballasts, 2 relay boxes, 2 hi/low beam cables, 2 "angel eye" voltage boxes
etc etc, plus wiring to run back to the battery.
not hard but time consuming.
pretty damn good results though
angle eyes..... (aka park/pilot light)
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g257/hmmmnz/DSC_0139%20Medium_zpsgxcsajsw.jpg)
dipped beam
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g257/hmmmnz/DSC_0137%20Medium_zpsbj9kef8x.jpg)
full beam
(http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g257/hmmmnz/DSC_0138%20Medium_zpsj6neelpv.jpg)
i think my low beam is a bit high, but we'll see how many times i get flashed in the next few days
light is a bit white and it takes a minute or so to fully warm up but its
like night and day though, amazing that 35watts can throw out so much light
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Looks good :)
Where did you get that setup from?
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I bought it off aliexpress http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2ABC-Universal-Motorbike-35w-2-inch-Hid-Bi-xenon-Projector-Lens-Kit-wiht-Slim-Ballast-Blue/865239432.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2ABC-Universal-Motorbike-35w-2-inch-Hid-Bi-xenon-Projector-Lens-Kit-wiht-Slim-Ballast-Blue/865239432.html)
All in including DHL postage was under £60
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I bought it off aliexpress [url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2ABC-Universal-Motorbike-35w-2-inch-Hid-Bi-xenon-Projector-Lens-Kit-wiht-Slim-Ballast-Blue/865239432.html[/url] ([url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2ABC-Universal-Motorbike-35w-2-inch-Hid-Bi-xenon-Projector-Lens-Kit-wiht-Slim-Ballast-Blue/865239432.html[/url])
All in including DHL postage was under £60
That link is just for one?
How did you fit them? Did you have to split the headlight unit etc?
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Not sure if anyone has mentioned these they were installed on my bike when I brought it 3 months ago, I've always been seriously impressed with them (not the cheapest option).
https://www.retrofitlab.com/yamaha-fzs600-mh1-1.html (https://www.retrofitlab.com/yamaha-fzs600-mh1-1.html)
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How do the projectors go mounting? Looks like some of them use a h4 shaped back end to just hold the projector. Does it work ok? Seems like it's be a bit wobbly to me.
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I bought it off aliexpress [url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2ABC-Universal-Motorbike-35w-2-inch-Hid-Bi-xenon-Projector-Lens-Kit-wiht-Slim-Ballast-Blue/865239432.html[/url] ([url]http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2ABC-Universal-Motorbike-35w-2-inch-Hid-Bi-xenon-Projector-Lens-Kit-wiht-Slim-Ballast-Blue/865239432.html[/url])
All in including DHL postage was under £60
How did you fit them? Did you have to split the headlight unit etc?
I also want to know this!
but they do look like this soo... this looks good to me!
However the h1 hole is a lot smaller than the h4? maybe op can comment
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_7dW3g6Xqw#)
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Yeah the link is just for one set. So if you do both sides you'll need to buy 2 sets. I followed instructions herehttp://fotifixes.com/2012/12/27/hid-projector-installation-in-a-2001-fazer-600/
Yeah you have to split the lights.
5 mins I'm the oven at 90'C softened everything up nicely. Same to put it back together
Carved out the h1 hole to fit the h4 projector.
We'll worth the effort. You could just to 1 projector if you didn't want to wreck your light.
But In my eyes it was no great loss.
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Yeah the link is just for one set. So if you do both sides you'll need to buy 2 sets. I followed instructions herehttp://fotifixes.com/2012/12/27/hid-projector-installation-in-a-2001-fazer-600/
Yeah you have to split the lights.
5 mins I'm the oven at 90'C softened everything up nicely. Same to put it back together
Carved out the h1 hole to fit the h4 projector.
We'll worth the effort. You could just to 1 projector if you didn't want to wreck your light.
But In my eyes it was no great loss.
Ahh so theyre just push through and screw a big nut on it.
i wonder how this would sit with an mot though as you cant put a h1 bulb back in
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Ahh so theyre just push through and screw a big nut on it.
Basically yes!
i wonder how this would sit with an mot though as you cant put a h1 bulb back in
You might find your answer here Paul, it'd be too much for me to try and explain my readings of it so thought you could read it and get your own thoughts?
http://www.ukmot.com/bike-1-2.asp#Text_top (http://www.ukmot.com/bike-1-2.asp#Text_top)
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as far as im aware its the pattern and where the beam shines that may be a problem.
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should be a pass then, the dipped beam is a nice solid line when against a wall,
it might flair a little wide, but i doubt it would fail, if the retro lab lights pass mot, (which i know they do) then these will as well
ii) deflect the main beam/s to make them dipped beam/s.
c. either beam as selected is affected by the operation of another lamp or the horn, or which flickers when tapped lightly by hand
as long as they point in the right direction, have some way of dipping the headlight
and as long as the light is white or yellow and doesnt flicker when tapped, then they can't fail you.
it used to be different years ago, and there was all sorts of nonsense about self leveling and what not.
not really applicable to bikes so i guess they pulled it out.
if you were worried about it you could just do a single hid h1 bulb, and a h4 bi-xenon projector
i think that would give out ample light, and be totally reversible.
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as far as im aware its the pattern and where the beam shines that may be a problem.
Thats true but if it shines within the scope it should pass and as projectors are directional and you'd still have the use of the adjustment screws at the back to move them to a suitable position.
My car has projectors for dipped beam with HID's in them and never had a problem with MOT's and i've had the car about 5 yrs.
The fitting of them is the key to get them sitting correctly to start with I'd imagine as if you get that too wrong, even the adjustment at the back might not sort it.
if you were worried about it you could just do a single hid h1 bulb, and a h4 bi-xenon projector
i think that would give out ample light, and be totally reversible.
I'd be much happier doing dual lights as I think the single light on the Fazer gives the wrong impression to other road users i.e. "one of your bulbs are out"
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Going to be "cheap" and order a set from ebay as ive bought 10000 kits and have enough ballasts and bulbs to fit headlights tail lights and helmet lights.
£23 for 2 projectors
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why so many kits??
but yeah all you need is the projectors if you have the ballasts and bulbs any way :D
I'd be much happier doing dual lights as I think the single light on the Fazer gives the wrong impression to other road users i.e. "one of your bulbs are out"
id hook up the h1 bulb to the dipped beam circuit so it was always on, and have both dip and full beam on the h4 projector, that way both lights are always on, but everything is fully reversable.
if that interested you :D
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I had next to no light from any hid kit i tried.... now confirmed my reflector is scrap.
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the fazer reflectors are literally the worst ive ever come across in the 20 odd years of riding and the 50 or 60ish bikes ive owned,
even the 6volt lighting circuit in my little 2 stroke has a better headlight.
first time ive ever use projectors, and im quite happy with the results,
keep us posted with developments on yours
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Think you boys have missed a trick. Have a look below and skip to 3:40 after the intro :lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JVqRy0sWWY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JVqRy0sWWY)
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Think you boys have missed a trick. Have a look below and skip to 3:40 after the intro :lol
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JVqRy0sWWY[/url] ([url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JVqRy0sWWY[/url])
brilliant thanks, ordered 1 for each side!
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Indicator question.
As the FZS is going to be naked I've modified most of the loom around the headlight and gauge area, I haven't touched the wiring for the rear indicators although haven't finished the front wiring as not 100% sure on where I'm going to mount them. For the first time since chopping the loom I've tried the lights etc out, all the gauge lamps, headlights etc work but have no power to the rear indicators. The idiot light on the gauges flash but not the rear lamps. Do the front lights need to be connected to complete the circuit?
Also the new indicators are LED, any suggestions on resistors or LED flasher units?
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Ignore last text, just going to go h1 both sides, hopefully remove my led spotlights.
If the main beams not bright enough ill switch it for a h4 bulb and just buy the controller.
(http://i.imgur.com/EdSjtvg.png)
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Ignore last text, just going to go h1 both sides, hopefully remove my led spotlights.
If the main beams not bright enough ill switch it for a h4 bulb and just buy the controller
How will two H1 bulbs work for an MOT Paul? (I think you need dipped and full beam for an MOT)
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yeah you need atleast a h4. hid's arn't like halogens, they take quite a while to heat up, and produce light.
so you can't just flick to full beam, it'll stay dark for a few seconds
what you need to do with out wrecking or modifying any of your headlight housing is have
a h4 bi-xenon which does dipped and full beam via a mechanical arm built into the light bulb
and a h1 that is just on dipped and remains on when flicked to full beam
in this case you are still relying on the fazers reflector, which if its currently crap on your halogen bulbs,
probably isnt going to be much better using hid lamps
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Think I'll just stick to HID's as I get enough light from the one H1 I've got in there at the moment along with a nightbreaker H4 which I'll change to a HID H4 once I source a decent one :)
The added bonus is that I can remove them easily enough to get the bike back to stock if needed.
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so one of these for the main beam side: http://www.innovitedstore.com/Innovited%20photo/ebay/35W%2055W%20bi%20xenon/H4-3%20New%20var%2001.jpg (http://www.innovitedstore.com/Innovited%20photo/ebay/35W%2055W%20bi%20xenon/H4-3%20New%20var%2001.jpg)
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so one of these for the main beam side: [url]http://www.innovitedstore.com/Innovited%20photo/ebay/35W%2055W%20bi%20xenon/H4-3%20New%20var%2001.jpg[/url] ([url]http://www.innovitedstore.com/Innovited%20photo/ebay/35W%2055W%20bi%20xenon/H4-3%20New%20var%2001.jpg[/url])
That's the sort of job I need Paul but like most sellers they only sell them in pairs, you also need a power lead that goes to your battery for an H4 as this is what gives you the main beam.
The light I get from my H1 HID is good enough for me as you've seen, so if I can source a decent H4 I'll be happy as it's just bulb changing really, plus a wee bit of wire routing and ballast fitting :)
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Any chance of a mspaint wiring diagram for the h4 high beam?
can i just plug the harness into the looms h4 connector with the hi/lo controller then plug that into the ballast then put the bulb in?
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Any chance of a mspaint wiring diagram for the h4 high beam?
can i just plug the harness into the looms h4 connector with the hi/lo controller then plug that into the ballast then put the bulb in?
I can't do mspaint on my phone, but if I get your question right.....
the H4 HID is just plug and play as per the H1 except you also need to run a positive and negative wire to the battery or a 'switched' live feed and an earth respectively.
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why do i need to add the wires to battery and not direct to the h4 plug :S
like use one of these
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1836259254_2/2pcs-Simplified-H4-9003-HB2-Hi-Lo-Bi-Xenon-HID-Bulbs-Relay-Harness-Wiring-Controller-4514.jpg (http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1836259254_2/2pcs-Simplified-H4-9003-HB2-Hi-Lo-Bi-Xenon-HID-Bulbs-Relay-Harness-Wiring-Controller-4514.jpg)
plug the 3 pin into h4 then the hi/lo plug into the hi/lo plug in the projector then the ballast plug to the ballast.
then itll look like this...
(http://i.imgur.com/ewDDpJU.png)
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All the places I've Emailed or called, have all suggested the +/- wiring to power as it reduces the chance of flickering, you are right in your thoughts that it'll work without but it will flicker as the power isn't sufficient enough through the normal wiring as it's a dual element bulb and unlike the H1 bulb in that respect.
Try typing "h4 hid wiring diagram" into Google
All the H4 HID kits I've looked at have all had the extra wiring with an inline fuse, why would you not want to use it?
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Got no problem doing that just trying to work out what i actually need, as you can see theres loads of types of wiring harness and my brain has refused to function all week.
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Got no problem doing that just trying to work out what i actually need, as you can see theres loads of types of wiring harness and my brain has refused to function all week.
In my opinion, which isn't very much :lol
But taking into account of your poor lights (HID'S) you've had I'd try and get one supplier to supply you a full kit i.e. 1 x H1 and 1 x H4 with all the corresponding ballasts and wiring.
I know you've got loads of ballasts and bulbs lying around but your problem may be none are actually compatible with each other. So I'm saying you might need to just put them all to one side and get a set from a supplier. They're are plenty that will supply you a set like this. The added bonus of doing this, is that, if they fail/don't work the company should help you get it sorted. When you mix and match stuff, no one will stand by the other stuff you got from somewhere else.
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im sure its down to my battery being on its way out, plugged into a 22ah and not an ounce of flicker, so going to replace the battery at some point.
the battery does seem a bit weak, previous non hid when the fan comes on the lights all dim.
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Fitted my projectors today, had to dremel out the hole on the h1 side, got it all fitted and theyre bright!
Currently using a normal h1 on the main beam side, waiting on the harness with controller for main beam.
I do however still have the flickering problem... but only on the left not right so thats telling me theres an issue with the left wiring harness for the original lighting.
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Fitted my projectors today, had to dremel out the hole on the h1 side, got it all fitted and theyre bright!
Currently using a normal h1 on the main beam side, waiting on the harness with controller for main beam.
I do however still have the flickering problem... but only on the left not right so thats telling me theres an issue with the left wiring harness for the original lighting.
:useless
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Soo....
i bought 2.5 inch projectors in h1 form £23 on ebay in the uk for the pair
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331462742506?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331462742506?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
They fit the right side with no modification, easy to fit... the left side needed modification, just dremeled out the hole so it fits.
simply a case of splitting the light in the oven, pushing the back of the projector through the bulb hole and then doing it up.
Fitted nicely however the 2 inch would have been better as i couldn't fit the plastic surround without cutting chunks out of the original reflector which i decided against incase i ever want to change it back.
Pics:
fitted into reflectors
(http://i.imgur.com/l43u170.jpg)
fitted onto the bike: (it definately needs a respray or a good wash)
(http://i.imgur.com/wEuJK79.jpg)
both projectors and spotlights (spotlights now unwired they arent needed however may wire to a seperate switch)
(http://i.imgur.com/1S1IZXo.jpg)
daytime on:
(http://i.imgur.com/CGyhOJI.jpg)
They where just thrown in and not adjusted when i took this pic but theyre bright!
can see the right hand side one just above the dip beam but its mostly pointing to the left and high.
Currently no main beam option untill my controller arrives so i have dip beam left and dip beam both for now, Not tried it at night yet though.
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Looking good Paul, a lot better than you had too :)
You could possibly wire your spots to come on with the side lights?
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Looking good Paul, a lot better than you had too :)
You could possibly wire your spots to come on with the side lights?
Spotlights are overkill to be honest, just 1 is brighter than main + dip beam on the standard fazer headlights, i used them as an emergency get home once and pointed at the floor and got flashed lol.
I should turn them round... the guy behind me will turn his full beams off then.
Im not sure what ill do with them to be honest, the hid seems more than enough and fills enough of the road to not need to light anymore up.
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Looking good Paul, a lot better than you had too :)
You could possibly wire your spots to come on with the side lights?
Spotlights are overkill to be honest, just 1 is brighter than main + dip beam on the standard fazer headlights, i used them as an emergency get home once and pointed at the floor and got flashed lol.
I should turn them round... the guy behind me will turn his full beams off then.
Im not sure what ill do with them to be honest, the hid seems more than enough and fills enough of the road to not need to light anymore up.
Yeah you just want light to see :lol
You mentioned H1's? Are you sticking two of them in or is one an H4?
Did you just put in standard bulbs or the HID's?
You also said about having to cut away the original reflector to fit the shroud, is this because of the length of the projector?
I don't think the shroud makes any difference on the light? (As I think it's just cosmetic)
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Theyre both h1s and i have h1 hid's fitted to both, the projectors have an electromagnet inside which flips a little piece of aluminium up allowing the light to bounce around the whole reflector so h1 should be fine on both.
The plastic cover is only cosmetic and it wouldnt fit as the 2.5 inch projector takes up most of the reflector space so the surround rubs against the top and bottom of the fazers standard reflector.
The projectors are long but they fit pretty well with room, id say a good inch and half if not more away from the glass on the headlight.
Rough total to get here...
4x 55w ballasts
1x 35w ballast
4x 55w bulbs
1x 35w bulb
3x wiring harness's
2x hid projectors
1x wiring harness with hi/lo controller
I love doing things the hard way!
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Theyre both h1s and i have h1 hid's fitted to both, the projectors have an electromagnet inside which flips a little piece of aluminium up allowing the light to bounce around the whole reflector so h1 should be fine on both.
H1's aren't dual element bulbs so I can't get it in my head that you'll have full beam, I'll need to wait and see it once you get the wiring harness your talking about
The plastic cover is only cosmetic and it wouldnt fit as the 2.5 inch projector takes up most of the reflector space so the surround rubs against the top and bottom of the fazers standard reflector.
ahh, so it's the width and not the length that's the problem
The projectors are long but they fit pretty well with room, id say a good inch and half if not more away from the glass on the headlight.
Rough total to get here...
4x 55w ballasts
1x 35w ballast
4x 55w bulbs
1x 35w bulb
3x wiring harness's
2x hid projectors
1x wiring harness with hi/lo controller
I love doing things the hard way!
you sure do :lol
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I'll count my self lucky that I got it first time, :lol
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the projectors have a flap that opens and closes uncovering the bulb allowing 100% light, basically, dip beam is 3/4 of a h1 hid, and main beam is a full h1 hid.
Theyre plenty bright enough as they are.
Just had a go at adjusting them, should have tried before putting the fairing on but the left one is still pretty heigh so going to have to unscrew it a bit and pull the rear up a bit to drop the light.
I clearly rushed it a bit so it may end up coming off again later today re melted then re-adjusted properly.
other than that, its good.
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I've got two spare H7 HID bulbs lying about, so I'm guessing that they'd work in the same way as the H1's you've put in Paul, where are you getting the wiring harness to operate the flap as the link you put in earlier doesn't do them.
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here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310814227119?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310814227119?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
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With regards to voltage drop from the battery to the lamps the distance on a bike shouldn't affect it but the guage of wiring will. Years ago I had a VW Golf mk2 which had abysmal wiring which gave 10.8v dip and 11.3 on main with the engine running. Two hours later fitted with a custom wiring harness containing a separate relay for dip and main the readings were a revelation as was the amount of light available. Engine running 13.1v dip, 13.4 main. Obviously you're unlikely to get those voltages on a bike but you'll get an improvement.
I simply bought two sets of HID. The cheap Chinese ones everyone saod not to get. They're for a car so I have a spare full set of both H4 and H1 bulbs and ballast. The slim ballasts just fit inside the fairing on top of the headlamps. I had to use self-amalgamating tape to the headlamp plug fittings. They are only 35w bulbs but the light output must be 10 times better. My only gripe is that main beam isn't much better than dip but at least I can now see well enough to ride at legal road speeds. I maytry a different manufacture bulb to see if I can better the maain beam but if I can't I'm still happy at the improvement which cost less than £30 and I've still got a spare set to allay any fears of poor chinese manufacture.
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I remember a post but I cannot find it regarding the voltage for the headlight. This person did a mod and upped his voltage to the headlamp and got better light.
I measured mine today and it was maximum 11.5volts on the bright beam while active, while the bike was charging a good 14-14.3 volts.
The reasoning is that the gauge of the wires/contacts in the button cluster is too thin to properly power the lamp.
Has anyone in here done this mod? And how would I go about performing this mod?
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Just measured my car as well, 13-14volts no problems at the light...
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Did the mod in this post (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22547.0.html)