Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: nickodemon on 11 September 2015, 07:46:12 pm
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Bought this tidy gen 1 tonight. Lovely bike with 46'000 mls full service history. It has a couple of issues i will need to sort. The first is the rear shock which is as soft as sh*te, the second is the exup valve rattles (hopefully just needs adjusted and greased) The third issue is the carb rubbers are cracked. I have owned several gen 1's and have never had any where the carb rubbers are cracked... Do they need replaced or are they pretty thick and should be okay. I always remember my rd 350 lc rubbers cracking. They needed replacing :\
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seen worse but there on well thick its just a cosmtic hang up
but looks a good un potential
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Ive got a hyperpro spring and some rubbers if needed mate?
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I might get back to you about the spring and rubbers ;) . I noticed when looking at rear shock it is set on the lowest spring setting? I will adjust up to max tomorrow and see how it feels. It doesn't need to be the best handling bike in the world, as it's purely for motorway slog to work..
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Carb heater plumbing has been removed along with the ais kit, so someone who previously owned it has known a few of the mods :thumbup
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The shock seems to be okay (for a standard shock!!!) It had all the settings at the softest settings? After some fettling it's better. i am going to take one of the carb tops off tomorrow and check the needles to see if it has been ivanised. It pulls really well and doesn't have the fluffiness of the standard set up. It has also had other mods done, so whoever owned it in the passed knew a thing or two about the mods.. Just bought a race can and link pipe from rmt1983, so i can get rid of the standard can..
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Carb heater plumbing has been removed along with the ais kit, so someone who previously owned it has known a few of the mods :thumbup
What benefits does removing the carb warming pipes make? I have removed mine because one of mine split causing a water leak, as Yamaha want stupid money for them I blanked off the inlet/outlet and removed the pipes.
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No benefit unless you live somewhere really hot and have suffered from fuel vaporizing in the carbs on a hot day.
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Next thing on the list was the rattling exup valve. Unbelievably the exup cover had 3 different bolts fitted and then when i removed the cover the bolts holding the exup to the exhaust were battery terminal bolts! They are as soft as sh*te!! The first snapped the head clean off, but i managed to get the other two out. :) I removed the snapped one with big vice grips on the remaining thread and slowly removed it :woot I stripped the exup down thoroughly cleaned it and gave a light rub down until shiny. I then thoroughly coated in high quality heat resistant lithium or ceramic (grey stuff) grease, reassembled, adjusted cables and hey presto a perfectly functioning exup. Oh.. while i remember the spring that sits between the pulley and valve were missing, so i made one and it seems to work well. Fitted flip screen courtesy of clanadam. It was clear from top to bottom, so it showed behind the clocks , i masked it off and sprayed the bottom of the screen with some satin black paint. Looks good, hopefully it will work well. Find out tomorrow when going to work.
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Screen works a treat :thumbup
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Good stuff - bad weather is just round the corner for the full test :lol
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Sounds like a nice commuter project going on.
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Wot you doing with the double bubble screen nick
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It's on feabay... £9.99 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141776877098?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141776877098?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649)
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Wot no foccer deal?
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I tried that with the bars and bar ends and got dicked about. :o
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Good stuff - bad weather is just round the corner for the full test :lol
I got nice drizzle on way to work this morning...... :\
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im interested in your views of the flip up screen
is it better than standard item
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Its an excellent screen. I can sit at 80mph with no head buffeting at all. Here's a pic
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Wots the make of the screen pls m8
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No idea! Pm Clanadam as i bought it from him.
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Sorry can't help - it came with the bike when I bought it!
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anyone know if the double bubble screens are any good
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All depends on your height and build, and the type of screen you buy. Not all DB screens for the Fazer are the same.
Which screen is best is a very subjective thing on the Gen 1. What works great for one owner could be awful for another. Start by getting views from those similar in size to yourself.
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No benefit unless you live somewhere really hot and have suffered from fuel vaporizing in the carbs on a hot day.
How hot does it need to be?
I live in Florida and made it just fine through the summer, commuting to work every day including going home for lunch. Now, I did not get stuck in traffic jams very much, just the occasional traffic light, so maybe as long as the bike is moving, it's not as much of a problem.
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It's not a common issue and as you've said, you haven't had to run for long periods at slow speed in traffic. It was a problem that afflicted a few owners in the hottest parts of the USA (yeah, I know Florida isn't exactly cool in summer ... ) over the years, that's all. It tends to show up more when trying to restart soon after stopping the motor in high temps, fast evaporating fuel in the carbs causing vapor locks.
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I decided to remove a carb top to see if the bike had been ivanised. I didn't think it had because it has to be given a bit of throttle when firing up, which is common on the standard fazer. It is standard :\ . I might buy a set of carbs and fit an ivans kit. I also did a mpg for my run to work. I sat mostly at 80 and it worked out at 49 mpg, which is the same as the sv 650 i had :lol
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I noticed a couple of times when taking the bike to work the clock lights either come on when i turn the ignition on or they don't... Neutral works and indicators, just the back lights that display the clocks.. Not funny when going to work in the dark... :\ . Any ideas about the clock lights? Ps starts first time every time now............Famous last words ;)
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Fixed the clock lights! It was a loose connector at the back of the clocks. I filled all the connectors with dielectric grease and now been working fine for several days, starting first press of the starter also, so that issue weeks ago has gone since i cleaned and greased all the connections. Ran perfect in a downpour a few days ago, so electrical issues seem sorted. Going great now :) . It may have been because it had hardly turned a wheel for ages that there were a few teething problems. All good now ;)