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Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Notch000 on 08 September 2015, 01:48:43 pm
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Hi,
I had a off a while ago, the bike went up and landed on left side broke stator, stator cover and cracked fairing etc, the bike is back up and running fine now but just noticed tha the engine mounts have taken a kicking. Thre was a crash bug in place that looks to have just folded over with the landing. but ive only noticed that half the rear engine mount has seared off and one side of the front subframe mount point is broke. so im not sure what my option are ???
How bad does it look, engine is sitting about 5-10degrees up on clutch side. Im not riding it on the road at the moment.
Im thinking i could replace the front subframe, jackup engine and reseat & have a bit welded onto the rear ?? would i have to strip back engine exhaust etc to do this ????
Or worst case frame is bent and bike will need to be reframed and registeded
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/Notch000/IMG_20150905_224401.jpg)
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/Notch000/IMG_20150905_224314.jpg)
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/Notch000/IMG_20150905_221148.jpg)
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Sorry I am no help but just to say the damage is a prime example of why not to use crash bungs on our fzs 600s. I think some new bikes have special bung positions designed to take a bung but ours dont.
Again sorry I was no help and I don't mean to rub it in, its just there was a debate on here not long ago about bungs vs bars
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS600-FZS-600-FAZER-FRAME-V5-REGISTRATION-DOCUMENT-LOG-BOOK-FWLB-/361360691323?hash=item5422c6907b (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS600-FZS-600-FAZER-FRAME-V5-REGISTRATION-DOCUMENT-LOG-BOOK-FWLB-/361360691323?hash=item5422c6907b)
Considering you'll need a specialist in to straighten your frame, or at least check it after you have, I'd say buying a frame with V5 would be the cheaper and safest option. As for registering, I'd be inclined to build it up and just send the V5 off for a change of engine numbers and colour if required. My brother has been riding around on a RD80LC with an FJ1200 engine stuffed in it for years and DVLA have no clue as to the fact that it wouldn't fit (custom frame)
Not looking like crash bungs are the way to go......
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I think the crash bungs did absoluetly nohting but bent over, the mounting between the crash bung and the subframe still looks straight and the engine took the brunt of the hit and thats why its knocked out of position
thoughts ???
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Ah so the front mount bolt sheared off and the rear engine casing failed. Looks strange as there doesnt appear to be any damage on the outer engine case, only to the crashbung
Drop the engine, clean up the casing, refit it, and see if it all lines up with all the unbroken mounts before spending any dollars.
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You say you broke the stator cover, which means the engine took the brunt after the crash bung bent. The engine mounts are not designed to take a bang and would be the weakest point.
It is possible that the frame is still intact, but before you go removing the engine, unbolt the exhaust pipe at the joint and the passenger foot peg and remove it, remove the down pipe mount to the frame by the right rider footrest, remove the front engine mounting bolt on the left side which is out of position, loosen all the rest of the engine mounting bolts and see if the engine moves back into place. If it does then you can decide to remove the engine and weld the mounts. Get some to help check the frame for is still straight by using the old method of to long straight poles providing the forks are straight.
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You say you broke the stator cover, which means the engine took the brunt after the crash bung bent. The engine mounts are not designed to take a bang and would be the weakest point.
It is possible that the frame is still intact, but before you go removing the engine, unbolt the exhaust pipe at the joint and the passenger foot peg and remove it, remove the down pipe mount to the frame by the right rider footrest, remove the front engine mounting bolt on the left side which is out of position, loosen all the rest of the engine mounting bolts and see if the engine moves back into place. If it does then you can decide to remove the engine and weld the mounts. Get some to help check the frame for is still straight by using the old method of to long straight poles providing the forks are straight.
That was my first though, will try this first, how many mounting points are there ???
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Ah so the front mount bolt sheared off and the rear engine casing failed. Looks strange as there doesnt appear to be any damage on the outer engine case, only to the crashbung
Drop the engine, clean up the casing, refit it, and see if it all lines up with all the unbroken mounts before spending any dollars.
I have replace the stator cover where it landed, casing was toast and had some deep scrapes through it pointing up towards the seat which is the direction the engine has repositioned itself, there was also damage to topbox, fairing and bar end weight took a punch too
Bike landed on my leg !!! any one want to see the X-Rays ??????
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1 at the back and 2 at the front
the front ones are an utter pain to line up
yes show x-rays
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1 at the back and 2 at the front
the front ones are an utter pain to line up
yes show x-rays
I assume be back one is the one that's sheared here ???? its really hard to even see
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Ah so the front mount bolt sheared off and the rear engine casing failed. Looks strange as there doesnt appear to be any damage on the outer engine case, only to the crashbung
Drop the engine, clean up the casing, refit it, and see if it all lines up with all the unbroken mounts before spending any dollars.
I have replace the stator cover where it landed, casing was toast and had some deep scrapes through it pointing up towards the seat which is the direction the engine has repositioned itself, there was also damage to topbox, fairing and bar end weight took a punch too
Bike landed on my leg !!! any one want to see the X-Rays ??????
Nice to see you saved the bike from even more damage with your leg :eek
A true bike lover :lol
Yeah! Where are the x-rays? :useless
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1 at the back and 2 at the front
the front ones are an utter pain to line up
yes show x-rays
Leave um all loose and podgy bar simplifies the job
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1 at the back and 2 at the front
the front ones are an utter pain to line up
yes show x-rays
Mountings?!
2 solid through holes at the back (top and bottom) and a pair at the front.
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Mountings?!
2 solid through holes at the back (top and bottom) and a pair at the front.
:agree pair at the front attached to the engine bracket. There is a small bracket at the back upper right
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I recon a couple of tubes of liquid metal and a 6" nail (bent over) and it'll be as good as new!
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Oh, and red box tape, every machine in our company is covered in the stuff and they keep running.................
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:rollin Not the best picture but this was about 2 week post opp, i has a compound fracture fibia & tibia, and had compartment symdrome after the initial opp that needed emergency treatment (nice scars, chicks love scars). So overal I had 2 operations, 10 days in hospital, 3 month non-weigh bering, around 5 months on crutchs & all in all probably took 12-18 month to make a full recover and it pretty good now, I might have better picture later.
Accidnet was on friday 13th /sep / 2013 you coudnet make it up !!
The surgeons said i was extremly lucky not to loose it and the first setting operation did the trick of an inital planned 1-3 follows, second surgery was just to close up open fasiamoity (compartment pressure relief)
Be careful out there
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/Notch000/IMG_20131001_121355.jpg)
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repost
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Ouch......OK now?
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ya fine, i cant run, kneel down & set of most airport metal detectors with it but ok considering
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Ouch! indeed, lucky lad, lots of limbs lost due to compartmental syndrome not being diagnosed in time. :'(
Came close myself over the same thing, still can't run, but can do everything else. Takes time, a lot of time :)
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I think I am being stupid!
There are 4 bolts that go through the engine. 2 at the front side by side and 2 at the back. Long ones, one above the other.
Are you saying there is only one mount at the back? Maybe it is because mine is 2000. I had the engine out again last night and refitted it.
I have some spare engine cases sat outside if any one is interested?
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i never notived te upper back one, hopefully its not smashed too !! is it hard to access ?
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Two long ones at the back top and bottom, two short ones at the front left and right.
Probably bent the frame mountings at the rear.
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You can see the bolt heads if you look.. here and here.. (although not very well on my photo)
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thanks for that Bretty, it will be another few weeks before I get to look at mine properly as i have it in storage and im heading abroad for a couple of weeks,
do you have any pics of the back of the engine out of bike ??? I have a quick look last night and coudent make out the top rear engine mount
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This is obviously with the engine case split. But shows the mounts. You should buy these off me and fit your internals! You'll only need a couple of gaskets! ;-)
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This is obviously with the engine case split. But shows the mounts. You should buy these off me and fit your internals! You'll only need a couple of gaskets! ;-)
Gasket set and possibly all new big end shells, seals etc, maybe a good idea but not ness a cheap one
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No thanks, live in Ireland and think it would be much easier to weld & repair broken mount, assuming top one is ok
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I just rebuilt my engine with new head and cylinder gasket and threebond for £70 all in (plus fluids, 20hrs work and a bit of swearing and tool throwing)
It's definitely easier to buy a complete secondhand lump (£250~) if you can find one with a history you trust.
I reckon in this instance a 'new' frame will be needed as it's tricky enough getting the lump in and out of a straight one!
To be honest, If that was my bike, I'd be breaking it. :-(
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You were fortunate that all the shells were the correct size
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I only changed the gearbox components.
The crank shaft and corresponding shells never changed.
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I just rebuilt my engine with new head and cylinder gasket and threebond for £70 all in (plus fluids, 20hrs work and a bit of swearing and tool throwing)
It's definitely easier to buy a complete secondhand lump (£250~) if you can find one with a history you trust.
I reckon in this instance a 'new' frame will be needed as it's tricky enough getting the lump in and out of a straight one!
To be honest, If that was my bike, I'd be breaking it. :-(
il see how it line up & go from there , big bcrow bar and a lump hammer.
its my first bike so id probably rather burry it than break it, I saw another frame for sale so that's option 2 !! I have new sub frame mount and bolt set in the post first too
<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/Notch000/DSC_0475.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0475.jpg"/></a>